It's nice to see you expanding your skill sets, instead of taking the easy way out and tanking it. Thanks for another spot on, short, complete and to the point video. 😉👍🙏👌
Appreciate the kind words and the support! It was a very straightforward task, but it is necessary whenever you have a situation like this. Thanks for stopping by!
7:14 a shutoff installed on expansion tank is also great idea for when needing to change out, or if have leak; able to isolate tank w/o shutting down entire house
The pressure should be set to match that of the pressure in your lines. If you dont have a check valve on outdoor spicket, you can thread a pressure guage and check your psi level there. Then, charge your new expansion tank to that same pressure
@5410th i recently learned about them too. I plan on installing one myself soon, and had been doing some research. Everyone said to match the PSI. Once you know the number, you could/should pressurize it before filling it with water
The relief valve should go to a floor drain or into a hub drain with a proper air gap, not a pan. That won't meet any code I know of. Your relief valve will only open if it fails or the tank controls fail. The change in volume of water as temperature changes is negligible. You need to fix the overheating problem with your tank, if the relief opens, it is because you are boiling water and making steam which will increase the pressure. Adding that tank is ridiculous.
Relief valve plumbed into the drain pan, with air gap, meets code in Florida for tanks that are below the main floor level, like in the garage, otherwise, plumbed to the outdoors in a visible place.
@@paullaws3889 as long as it’s on the cold waterline, going to the hot water tank. Mine is underneath the hot water tank in the crawlspace. I hope that helps!
I have my water regulator set at 60 PSI and was going to set my expansion tank to equal the 60 PSI. My plumber said the same thing as you about the precharged PSI in the pressure tank being enough (comes precharged at 40 PSI). Numerous plumbers online are stating you must charge expansion tanks equal to, or no more than 5 PSI less than, the water coming in or it will not function as intended. I'm so confused. It seems like this is a matter of physics and not open to opinion.
Oh yes, that makes sense. Most water pressure is between 30 and 60 psi. The tank is pre-charged at 40 which would be suitable for most cases. I agree with you and the plumber. Thanks for stopping by!
If water is coming out of the TMP valve the valve itself can be bad or the thermostat on the water heater could be bad you should definitely change the water heater thermostat if the water heater is more than 14 years old change the water heaters these are not issues you want to guess with
That's what the buffer tanks do. They absorb the expansion? Or are you referring to the water heater? If it only fills to 80%, how's the hot water going to leave the tank?
It's nice to see you expanding your skill sets, instead of taking the easy way out and tanking it. Thanks for another spot on, short, complete and to the point video. 😉👍🙏👌
Appreciate the kind words and the support! It was a very straightforward task, but it is necessary whenever you have a situation like this. Thanks for stopping by!
thanks for posting this. i bought a new house a couple years ago and have always wondered what this tank for for
You are welcome! Stay tuned for more videos to come!
7:14 a shutoff installed on expansion tank is also great idea for when needing to change out, or if have leak; able to isolate tank w/o shutting down entire house
great job
My favorite video
Awesome! Thanks for watching!
I like the new expansion valves. Much less bulky, does same thing.
Good video! Is there a correct orientation for the tank?
Thank you for the step-by-step instructions. Did you have to adjust the air pressure in the expansion tank to match your house's water pressure?
You’re welcome. I did not have to adjust the pressure. It was already preset in the tank. I hope that helps!
Thank You!
The pressure should be set to match that of the pressure in your lines. If you dont have a check valve on outdoor spicket, you can thread a pressure guage and check your psi level there. Then, charge your new expansion tank to that same pressure
@louofm1 Thank you. I am about to install an expansion tank and want to make sure I am doing it correctly.
@5410th i recently learned about them too. I plan on installing one myself soon, and had been doing some research. Everyone said to match the PSI. Once you know the number, you could/should pressurize it before filling it with water
Expansion tank PSI should be set to the same pressure of your water supply entering the property.
Yes! Thanks for watching!
Like to see a video on a Hot Water Recirculating Pump.
Stay tuned because eventually I would get to that video at some point. Just not sure when. Thanks for watching!
The relief valve should go to a floor drain or into a hub drain with a proper air gap, not a pan. That won't meet any code I know of. Your relief valve will only open if it fails or the tank controls fail. The change in volume of water as temperature changes is negligible. You need to fix the overheating problem with your tank, if the relief opens, it is because you are boiling water and making steam which will increase the pressure. Adding that tank is ridiculous.
Relief valve plumbed into the drain pan, with air gap, meets code in Florida for tanks that are below the main floor level, like in the garage, otherwise, plumbed to the outdoors in a visible place.
If the TMP is leaking on a well system it is almost always an overheating issue the thermostat on the water heater is bad
Ha, ha... congrats for the split in the wood beam. You should drill a guide hole for the screws, to avoid cracking the wood.
How far away from the water heater can the expansion tank be located and still be functional?
From the research I did it sounds like you would want it within 10 feet of pipe length. I hope that helps!
Can the tank be placed below the water heater?
@@paullaws3889 as long as it’s on the cold waterline, going to the hot water tank. Mine is underneath the hot water tank in the crawlspace. I hope that helps!
I have my water regulator set at 60 PSI and was going to set my expansion tank to equal the 60 PSI. My plumber said the same thing as you about the precharged PSI in the pressure tank being enough (comes precharged at 40 PSI). Numerous plumbers online are stating you must charge expansion tanks equal to, or no more than 5 PSI less than, the water coming in or it will not function as intended. I'm so confused. It seems like this is a matter of physics and not open to opinion.
Oh yes, that makes sense. Most water pressure is between 30 and 60 psi. The tank is pre-charged at 40 which would be suitable for most cases. I agree with you and the plumber. Thanks for stopping by!
If water is coming out of the TMP valve the valve itself can be bad or the thermostat on the water heater could be bad you should definitely change the water heater thermostat if the water heater is more than 14 years old change the water heaters these are not issues you want to guess with
Simply put your house pressure should always be under 80 psi
The algorithm recommended the video, glad it did. Christ is Risen!
Anytime you're connected to City Water you are required to have an expansion tank
Why don't they build the tanks with enough buffer space for the expansion - like a float so it only fills to say 80% capacity...!
That's what the buffer tanks do. They absorb the expansion? Or are you referring to the water heater? If it only fills to 80%, how's the hot water going to leave the tank?