Golly, this was a really good video. This guy knows his stuff, and his delivery is so clear, confident, and precise, that you know he's got to be spot on. I don't believe I have ever seen a man on RUclips so composed and clear and mature in relaying information as this man. Well done, and you have made me really think about abandoning muriatic acid.
Oddly the title is "Cleaning Brick Work", but this guy tells you NOT to clean brick, because the only suggestion he gives is NOT to use muratic acid. Well, you can always do a paper test PH/acid and see how strong your acid is. SO WHAT DO you suggest to use? Only mentions commercial "cleaner". What is that??!!
25 yrs ago I dumped straight acid onto my stained garage floor in small sections then stood far back and hosed the garage out. I didn’t know younhave to mix it with water. There were no RUclips videos back then to learn from. Today I want to clean my brick pavers (power wash isn’t an option because I’ll blow the stones out) but I’m scared they’ll just fall apart while I’m sleeping.
I seriously doubt that 4 bottles of MA in a case would be different concentrations. Would there be 4 separate MSDS's in the box? If one is 10 times as strong as the next you are buying junk from a non trusted foreign supplier. Acids are a bit more monitored than that in their labeling practices as well as there concentrations consistency to meet safety standards.
The acid could be 10 times the strength of the last batch? There’s no way to know? Either you know nothing about chemistry and/or you are just trying to scare people into buying cleaners.
100% fact! What you are using the acid for is the calcium reaction from the mortar, which cleans it off. Muriatic acid is a industry name for diluted hydrochloric acid. Use a pH/acid tester if you want to be sure. This is a BOGUS video.
@@philindeblanc right, except that muriatic acid is not dilute at all. Muriatic acid approaches the highest concentration of hydrogen chloride possible in a stable aqueous solution at 31.5%. Any higher than 38% and it fumes so strongly that it needs to be refrigerated in high pressure containers. 36% is laboratory-grade fuming hydrochloric acid.
@@EightiesTV Now thats good interesting info! So the solution is what degrades it in order to stay stable...which is likely water, no? How is 100% hydrochloric concentrate stored? My other half was a working chemist not me. I just took it 3 courses in chem and it was a brain workout, years ago!
I guess I add to the pile-on. I’m a chemist in the paint and roofing space, so I see the obvious scare tactic. For example, the typical chemicals are between 5 and 28% - so no 10X. I suspect commercial acids are controlled as much as many products - they main thing is to see if they state ingredients with a specific level - often controlled to the 1/500th. But as an industrial chemist I also see contractors not follow instructions, so a pre-diluted product has its merits. I have given Ph meters or test tapes to contractors only to never see them used (my issue was “hot” concrete) - so he may not be a paid Shill, just one who’s had some problems. For some, the lower cost of concentrated HCl, properly diluted is a smart move, as you can use it in many ways.
thanks ..i am geting ready to do some remorter & paint my concrete brick building .. ( RAIN SOCKES THROUGH and then a nasty mold acumlates inside ) im defiantly not going to acid it now 🫡
Home Depot sells a Muriatic Acid that has less fumes; it is 20% hydrochloric acid vs standard 35%. So how do they meter them if they are NOT controlled?
He definitely has God in him he reminds me of pants and that's a bad memory but nevertheless he's telling us something I learned something from him even though he didn't give me all the information but now I'm asking more questions cuz I want to do it right
Muriatic acid??? So if you don't know about doing anything about bricks it's going to sound like something you never heard it before and he's not going to give you all the details because he's talking to people who know this product
I talk pointed bricks and did some masonry but I never was able to clean, the bricks that I damaged with the mortar oh, and I want to know my winter ratio the lowest temperatures that I could mix this
As an industrial chemist in 2024, I can say that globally, in any market, the strength of muriatic acid is standardized, known, and in reality completely exists in diametric opposition to the statements made here.
If you hire a brick layer, he should cleaning up his mortar joints as he goes. This is done using wire and soft brushes. He should also be repairing bee holes himself or it should be done by the hod carrier. If he does not have a hod carrier and he is doing sloppy brick work, if he isn't doing that himself, then you need to find another block layer. Because once mortar sets, it's really difficult to clean it and make it look nice.
just soak the brick and use a tester brick so you can tell. get the old Samon brick and test that. if you can keep that in good shape its safe for anything else too
i use muratic acid and it cleans it just fine. All you need to do: wet the brick; use the right amount of muriatic acid and water; apply acid; brush with a soft plastic brush, and rinse immediately to avoid staining. That's it!!
Cleaning an entire brick house this week due to old oxidation run off from some aluminum siding that was up in an eave Guess what, only Chem test that took paint transfer off was muriatic acid Kaaaaaaaaaboom
What you are using the acid for is the calcium reaction from the mortar, which cleans it off. Muriatic acid is a industry name for diluted hydrochloric acid. Use a pH/acid tester if you want to be sure. This is a BOGUS video.
A video titled "Cleaning Brick Work", that never tells you how to do it. Do I have to watch Chapter 19 to find out what I SHOULD use to clean brick? Douche-nozzle!
You know I think you do give you the strength of the acid don't they anyone with some basic knowledge should be able to reproducibly dilute acid time and time again.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Golly, this was a really good video. This guy knows his stuff, and his delivery is so clear, confident, and precise, that you know he's got to be spot on. I don't believe I have ever seen a man on RUclips so composed and clear and mature in relaying information as this man. Well done, and you have made me really think about abandoning muriatic acid.
You’re joking, he gave no information! The delivery is the only thing that impresses
this man is awesome at his delivery
OK, then what do you use to clean brick?
Exactly my question, don't do this, don't do that, then do what?
premixed brick cleaning detergent.
@@Paul-A01 or test your acid stregth before using...lol...This is just a way to make things difficult and hire someone...LOL
Lemon juice is a great alternative!
WTF 🤬
Nice if you want to learn what not to do but very little help on what to do to clean your brick.
Just what I was thinking. This video is unhelpful if all you want to know is how yo clean your brickwk & what to buy (no mention) to achieve that
@@simontaylor2319 TSP is a great cleaner for brick or block. Rinse it well.
But there is no mention of a specific product to replace muriatic acid.
Good video. Thanks
Oddly the title is "Cleaning Brick Work", but this guy tells you NOT to clean brick, because the only suggestion he gives is NOT to use muratic acid. Well, you can always do a paper test PH/acid and see how strong your acid is. SO WHAT DO you suggest to use? Only mentions commercial "cleaner". What is that??!!
Cool story. So what do you use instead..
What a wast of 4:12 of my life. You didn't say anything.
25 yrs ago I dumped straight acid onto my stained garage floor in small sections then stood far back and hosed the garage out. I didn’t know younhave to mix it with water. There were no RUclips videos back then to learn from. Today I want to clean my brick pavers (power wash isn’t an option because I’ll blow the stones out) but I’m scared they’ll just fall apart while I’m sleeping.
What are your tips on cleaning indoor exposed brick in a 1912 building?
Lemon juice
Sorry I only know 1913 and newer buildings. Can’t help you
Standing in front of a wall with a broken bond priceless 😂👍
I still learn from this video even though he didn't give me all the details so I take it as a positive
I seriously doubt that 4 bottles of MA in a case would be different concentrations. Would there be 4 separate MSDS's in the box? If one is 10 times as strong as the next you are buying junk from a non trusted foreign supplier. Acids are a bit more monitored than that in their labeling practices as well as there concentrations consistency to meet safety standards.
The muriatic acid is not going to be 10 times stronger than the last jug.
Obey!
Exactly! Sort of a dinosaur
Almost common sense to me when I was told to use acid lol but nice to hear it from you
The acid could be 10 times the strength of the last batch? There’s no way to know? Either you know nothing about chemistry and/or you are just trying to scare people into buying cleaners.
100% fact! What you are using the acid for is the calcium reaction from the mortar, which cleans it off. Muriatic acid is a industry name for diluted hydrochloric acid. Use a pH/acid tester if you want to be sure. This is a BOGUS video.
@@philindeblanc right, except that muriatic acid is not dilute at all. Muriatic acid approaches the highest concentration of hydrogen chloride possible in a stable aqueous solution at 31.5%. Any higher than 38% and it fumes so strongly that it needs to be refrigerated in high pressure containers. 36% is laboratory-grade fuming hydrochloric acid.
@@EightiesTV Now thats good interesting info! So the solution is what degrades it in order to stay stable...which is likely water, no? How is 100% hydrochloric concentrate stored? My other half was a working chemist not me. I just took it 3 courses in chem and it was a brain workout, years ago!
I guess I add to the pile-on. I’m a chemist in the paint and roofing space, so I see the obvious scare tactic. For example, the typical chemicals are between 5 and 28% - so no 10X. I suspect commercial acids are controlled as much as many products - they main thing is to see if they state ingredients with a specific level - often controlled to the 1/500th. But as an industrial chemist I also see contractors not follow instructions, so a pre-diluted product has its merits. I have given Ph meters or test tapes to contractors only to never see them used (my issue was “hot” concrete) - so he may not be a paid Shill, just one who’s had some problems. For some, the lower cost of concentrated HCl, properly diluted is a smart move, as you can use it in many ways.
thanks ..i am geting ready to do some remorter & paint my concrete brick building .. ( RAIN SOCKES THROUGH and then a nasty mold acumlates inside ) im defiantly not going to acid it now 🫡
Sooooo……the take away is only use water and brush like the old guys?
Home Depot sells a Muriatic Acid that has less fumes; it is 20% hydrochloric acid vs standard 35%. So how do they meter them if they are NOT controlled?
all yu need is a pH/Acidity tester to know the strength. Muratic acid is cheap. proprietary commercial cleaners are NOT.
He sounds like a preacher, great voice for it.
He definitely has God in him he reminds me of pants and that's a bad memory but nevertheless he's telling us something I learned something from him even though he didn't give me all the information but now I'm asking more questions cuz I want to do it right
He's talking to people who know about doing bricks is not talking to the amateur
Muriatic acid??? So if you don't know about doing anything about bricks it's going to sound like something you never heard it before and he's not going to give you all the details because he's talking to people who know this product
I talk pointed bricks and did some masonry but I never was able to clean, the bricks that I damaged with the mortar oh, and I want to know my winter ratio the lowest temperatures that I could mix this
I’m going to use muriatic acid because that makes no sense.
FYI -- You're got a typo in your video -- there's an "i" in muriatic acid.
It's spelled muriatic acid, & is pronounced with four syllables.
thanks Karen you've wok Asshole of the week
As an industrial chemist in 2024, I can say that globally, in any market, the strength of muriatic acid is standardized, known, and in reality completely exists in diametric opposition to the statements made here.
If you hire a brick layer, he should cleaning up his mortar joints as he goes. This is done using wire and soft brushes. He should also be repairing bee holes himself or it should be done by the hod carrier. If he does not have a hod carrier and he is doing sloppy brick work, if he isn't doing that himself, then you need to find another block layer. Because once mortar sets, it's really difficult to clean it and make it look nice.
if you do steps and landings it can get tricky if you rush. generally under pricing a job will take you up shits creek
I have deep black mold nothing is working.
there's a special detergent just for that. You don't need muriatic acid for that.
wat do i use?
Car washes take the tooling off the brickwork and you have white blocks is all over the brick
Lots of don't without any dos.
just soak the brick and use a tester brick so you can tell. get the old Samon brick and test that. if you can keep that in good shape its safe for anything else too
Till the end you didnt say whats to be done, you said only whats not to be done
i use muratic acid and it cleans it just fine. All you need to do: wet the brick; use the right amount of muriatic acid and water; apply acid; brush with a soft plastic brush, and rinse immediately to avoid staining. That's it!!
Just a heads up! It will kill your plants and your grass. So, be careful when using it!
Can I just use lemon juice and lemon concentrate
What can be done about acid stained brick to get rid of the foggy white burn? Other than staining?
Cleaning an entire brick house this week due to old oxidation run off from some aluminum siding that was up in an eave
Guess what, only Chem test that took paint transfer off was muriatic acid
Kaaaaaaaaaboom
Huh! Use hypo acid dilute with water 10:1 been doing it for 40 years
Wow! Thank you I'm going to try your way. I'm Googling around,...
where do you get it?
And what's the full name of it?
ive always used hydrochloric acid without issue
But you use muratic acid. Its the main ingredient in your product.
Use it all the time works better then anything they sell just dilute the shit out of it nothing cleans better🎉
Computers are taking our jobs.
Do not listen to this guy. Yes you may use muriatic acid , buy klean strip. Works fine.
Common sense AIN'T common... Just shoots down every way to clean a brick, & does NOT OFFER A SOLUTION!!!
Use hydrochloric acid
Good, hard fired brick is NOT porous at all. Junk brick is.
I’m looking for cleaning my garage floor!
B.S. :)
What you are using the acid for is the calcium reaction from the mortar, which cleans it off. Muriatic acid is a industry name for diluted hydrochloric acid. Use a pH/acid tester if you want to be sure. This is a BOGUS video.
A video titled "Cleaning Brick Work", that never tells you how to do it. Do I have to watch Chapter 19 to find out what I SHOULD use to clean brick? Douche-nozzle!
Talk to much,say nothing..uff
In other words...hire someone to clean your bricks!
OK I learned what not to do. Didn't help me learn what to do
You know I think you do give you the strength of the acid don't they anyone with some basic knowledge should be able to reproducibly dilute acid time and time again.
ya, just use a pH/acid tester..DUH..hello!!
I don’t know this man. I don’t clean brick. But I am here and I know now to never use muriatic acid.
So why not tell us what TO DO!
YOU NEVER GOT AROUND TO THAT!
So don’t use this! But also don’t tell us what works well? Hmm!
Offers all the contrary opinions but offers no solutions.
Clean brick with acid! Dont clean with acid! Lightly sandblast! Dont sandblast! I'm about ready to just leave the f****** brick dirty!!
K
waste of time.
Useless video.