Thanks so much for putting together this video! Took around 15 minutes to remove it once the wheel was off and the car was on a jack-stand. Extremely clear instructions, and very nice camera angles.
Thank you! I have a problem on my 2006 Volvo S40 2.4i. I believe my tensioner is bad as I hear chirping coming from the side of my engine. In turn I believe it is giving my alternator a false out put voltage. Or a true out put voltage reading with a bad tensioner. I was getting a message on my instrument cluster saying “ Power system service urgent”. I think the chirping sound I’m hearing is a loose belt due to a bad tensioner. But haven’t verified that yet. I’m so happy that you made this video because it gives me the confidence to open up my vehicle and visually inspect the tensioner with ease. So thank you! 🙏🥰🤗 also, I love how you showed us that we can rebuild the rectifying bridge. I didn’t know that it had prongs on it that could wear down! Thank you much! Your video is the best that I’ve seen so far. 🙏🙏🙏❤️
i had the same warning lights come on and i drove for about 3 weeks until it put me down side the road. I will be replacing my alternator now and thanks for showing me how.
If the problem comes from the charging system, make sure the LIN (Local Interconnect Network) single wire, serial data is not broken and is not corroded. If there is a bad or no communication between the alternator voltage regulator and the ECM, a warning light will come back on again. It is also good to inspect and clean the negative and the positive connections between the alternator, the chassis and the battery.
Thank you so much for explaining everything so well, hopefully my daddy will be able to figure it out, and I say that because my Volvo is a 2010, not sure if there's too much of a difference or not but thank you anyway.
my Alternator charge with 14,9 A is that great ? i got on warrning message on dashbord and then nothing and the car drives normally volvo s40 2006 1,6L
I have never seen any S40 1,6L in north America. Probably 14,9 Volts, it acceptable if you don't have a lot of electrical components ''ON''. Normally the voltage output of the alternator is managed by a processor that knows the current load of all the electrical components. If there is no bidirectional data communication with the alternator, the safe mode of the alternator should produce around 14.7 Volts. Also, if there is no data communication, you should have a Check Engine Light ''ON''. Then, an OBD2 code can be read with a proper scan tool.
Thanks so much for putting together this video! Took around 15 minutes to remove it once the wheel was off and the car was on a jack-stand. Extremely clear instructions, and very nice camera angles.
Also kudos for the tip on using a jack-stand as an extra hand for releasing the tensioner.
Thank you! I have a problem on my 2006 Volvo S40 2.4i. I believe my tensioner is bad as I hear chirping coming from the side of my engine. In turn I believe it is giving my alternator a false out put voltage. Or a true out put voltage reading with a bad tensioner. I was getting a message on my instrument cluster saying “ Power system service urgent”. I think the chirping sound I’m hearing is a loose belt due to a bad tensioner. But haven’t verified that yet. I’m so happy that you made this video because it gives me the confidence to open up my vehicle and visually inspect the tensioner with ease. So thank you! 🙏🥰🤗 also, I love how you showed us that we can rebuild the rectifying bridge. I didn’t know that it had prongs on it that could wear down! Thank you much! Your video is the best that I’ve seen so far. 🙏🙏🙏❤️
Great video, thank you for the fine camerawork and the walkthrough!
As usual very clear and helpful . Thanks for posting .
This was a wonderful video, thanks to you I was able to replace mine!
Thank you so much! I’ve learned something new from your video and really love the way you teach clearly. Loved your video it was very helpful. :-)
Great video. Thanks for taking the time.
i had the same warning lights come on and i drove for about 3 weeks until it put me down side the road. I will be replacing my alternator now and thanks for showing me how.
If the problem comes from the charging system, make sure the LIN (Local Interconnect Network) single wire, serial data is not broken and is not corroded.
If there is a bad or no communication between the alternator voltage regulator and the ECM, a warning light will come back on again.
It is also good to inspect and clean the negative and the positive connections between the alternator, the chassis and the battery.
Thank you so much for explaining everything so well, hopefully my daddy will be able to figure it out, and I say that because my Volvo is a 2010, not sure if there's too much of a difference or not but thank you anyway.
Tres Bon video! Merci!
my Alternator charge with 14,9 A is that great ?
i got on warrning message on dashbord and then nothing and the car drives normally volvo s40 2006 1,6L
I have never seen any S40 1,6L in north America. Probably 14,9 Volts, it acceptable if you don't have a lot of electrical components ''ON''. Normally the voltage output of the alternator is managed by a processor that knows the current load of all the electrical components. If there is no bidirectional data communication with the alternator, the safe mode of the alternator should produce around 14.7 Volts. Also, if there is no data communication, you should have a Check Engine Light ''ON''. Then, an OBD2 code can be read with a proper scan tool.
Excellent!
thanks for this video very informative..
Thank You!
Thank you
2008 model S40 2.4i needs t45 not 55
My 2005 needed a t50. Got a t55 in the first place too.