Oh you just got me going with that. I swear it's like people that make parts in the bike industry don't ride and work on bikes. I went to change out the handle bars on my old MTB and found that all the levers and shifters were held on by the same size hex bolts EXCEPT the dropper post which was a torx of a size that was not in the multitool I carried at the time. Talk about "torxing" me off. I went down to the local bike shop and rummaged through their bolt bucket till I found the right sizes hex bolt. Oh and I have more examples that also get me going ... maybe latter I'll comment more as part of my therapy for owning bikes.
Absolutely loved this video. After spending many hours over the past 6 years messing with Sram Red disc brakes alignment it’s time to buy the tool you mention. And yes, I hate that torx screw as much as you do.
Went ahead and bought the Birzman tool, and can say it does the job nicely! Even get to give one of the three that come in the package to a road cycling buddy.
Thank you for sharing your thoughts on this tool. I am going to pick this up because I spend way too much time aligning my Level TLM brakes. As for the Torx bolt issue, I am sure you can replace the bolt with the good ol hex one. M6 internal hex 23mm from a custom fastener shop would do the trick.
I had this issue, switching my Vision Team 30 wheels to my new Roval CL50 carbon wheels with new Force rotors on the Roval wheels as well. but only had an issue on the front brake. They are the new SRAM Force eTap AXS levers too. The rear does not scrub. I tried recentering the caliper and pushing the pistons in, but it still scrubs. It's a brand new Lynskey Helix Titanium bike too, so the pistons should not be sticking yet I would imagine. I ordered that Birzman tool and I will also try removing the pads and pushing the pistons back and forth and resetting them, as well as relieving that brake line pressure too, as I live in NY where it is quite humid now. Thx. again for all the help. Your video is better than the Park tool one!
Thanks for this video, i have never seen or heard of these before as i am new to biking, but it looks like something that more people need to know about.
I find that the forces exerted by the brake cable are enough to move it back where you don't want it. Tightening the screws enough to prevent this issue means the technique doesn't work.
I totally agree Clint - My Sram Apex 1 piston calliper and rotor tolerance appear acute - However not a bad thing but do require you to accurately centre them because of the callipers POST MOUNT TOLERANCES - Which is a superior mounting system as long as the post mount faces have been accurately machined. Sram's use of torx head bolts for calliper mounting requires you to torque them up PERFECTLY SQUARE ON otherwise you damage both bolt & Torx head driver - So I'll be changing out mine for Allen head bolts. The calliper / rotor cantering tool is excellent as is your earlier advice of using a credit card. Happy pedalling & best wishes 🙏
I bought the birzman tool a year or so ago, I also have the Hayes tool but I prefer the Birzman as it is smaller so I can take it with me. it takes a lot of the guess work out of it. I don't have a preference for torx or hex, as long as the bike has all torx or all hex.
Nice, simple little tool. Sometimes in life the simplistic bits of kit are the most useful. Seems to be a general hatred towards torx bolts, I completely agree. There is a very simple solution I have found, Swap em out! The caliper mounting bolts are M5 thread, and the disc rotor bolts are M4 Thread. Use a socket head bolt for the caliper, and a button head for the rotor bolts. Mine are stainless steel from a local garage/workshop supplier. The length of the caliper bolts will vary depending upon your rotor size and caliper bridge, but are usually 25-30mm, the rotor bolts I use are 12mm, both with hex bolt heads. The other aspect of swapping to these bolts is that I tend to check them for tightness more often, with the torx I was always scared of that one "slip" of the torque wrench and a nice round torx bolt! I know you are imperial sizes in the states, but M4/M5 must be avaialble, here in the UK we still get the odd 3/32", 5/16th etc, etc Also with these bolts, You can also use a non permanent thread lock if necessary, safe in the knowledge that you will be able to remove the bolts if needed without the fear of the "rounded torx bolt" I just use a bit of anti seize.
Oh never truer word said. I hate torx bolts. In the process of either wigging out or simply put my shimano bolts back in caliper mount and bury the sram bolts in the back garden!! You hit every point. Nice one. Martin😊
I replace any Torx screws with stainless socket head cap screws. As for the alignment thing with Hydros. Some are so simple to set up you may wonder why some complain but there is more afoot too. Such as roughly machined mounting plates that are not perpendicular to the axle or brake calliper bodies not aligned and then torqued screws that twist the calliper after perfect alignment (so you thought). And then there is that one piston that seems to work much more freely than the other. I'm not a total perfectionist but these things test me.
No, I typically don't touch the rotors. At 2 minutes it's hard to see in the video but I'm grabbing the tool not the rotor. But in other videos that I make, like my bike cleaning videos, I always recommend cleaning the rotors off with rubbing alcohol.
I find it works better if you pump the brakes then carefully tighten them while there isn't any pressure. The tool will help set the new settling point for the caliper as that's where the rubbing is happening.
Good video and simple to understand, thanks. I just got my first bike with hydro disc brakes, had mech disc brakes before. When rainy, disc on front wheel begin to rub, how come?
If all else fails, check your pads. If they are sufficiently worn down, it might be that no amount of fiddling will center them. I suspect it might be that if the pistons extend past a certain point and one pad is slightly thicker than its counterpart, the brake doesn't have the range to self-adjust. I have a Boone with Shimano RS685 brakes. Fiddled for an hour trying all things mentioned in the video before re-setting pistons (for probably 5th time that evening) then popped in some new pads. Solved. I like Torx on my stem where access is not a problem, but prefer hex where bolts are difficult to reach when a ball end hex key does the job.
Great videos Clint! So that Birzman tool is almost like another set of brake pads, that goes on both sides of the rotor, in between each pad. Hard to see from the video, as it looked as if it was only one sided.
One other question Clint, do you recommend turning the lever contact bolt on the top of the lever, all the way inward first, to allow you to back that out if needed?
I actually don’t do that but it is a good idea if the tool still does not center your brakes. From time to time you also may have to relieve some fluid pressure out of the system, as I showed in my video of how to fix dragging brake pads
Wow, that was super helpful! I just recently got my new Trek Checkpoint ALR4 Adventure Bike and the first issue I ran into were squealing disc brakes and centering them correctly was a real pain. So, I just ordered the Birzman tool the moment I finished watching this video.
Hey Clint, does this applicable only to hydraulic double, quad pistons or can I even use it to my other bike its mechanical disc brake single piston. Hope you notice my comment. Ride safe!
This may work with mechanical disc brakes but probably not. Usually mechanical brakes only have one piston moves. Typically there is a dial on the outside of the caliper that allows you to rotate until the piston is in the right position. It’s honestly been such a long time since I’ve owned mechanical brakes that I really can’t remember exactly how to center them!
Thanks heaps for the video Clint. I have a Birzman tool kit, with the centring tool (and a full, very nice set of torx wrenches 😁). Could never find info on how to use it...
Hi Clint. Nice Vid. Love Birzman - great tools and value for money. However, still looking for a Piston Press, since the Birzman one I got didn't fit into my Shimano road hydraulic calipers. Wouldn't recommend a screwdriver since it could score the pads/pistons. BTW, also worth checking if there's any sticky pistons - one side may be moving less (if any) than the other. Centering will still seem good, until you're out on the road. But you'll probably end up with disc rub (esp when out of saddle), uneven wear and poss disc warp. As for Torx, replace them all with Hex and be done with it (will also minimise number of tools to carry). -)
Never been an issue for me. I try to make bike maintenance accessible to more people by keeping them from having to go out and purchase a lot of tools.
My bike, with Shimano brakes, came with a red plastics part for dealing with the pistons. And another for centering. Might be worth to check what your bike (or brakes) came with before buying new stuff.
Two suggestions: Don’t touch the tool with your fingers to avoid transferring grease to the pads. Also, remove the pads before pushing back the pistons to avoid scratching the pad surface.
thanks for a helpfull video, i have Sram hydraulic brakes on my road bike and havent been able to solve the piston problem where one of them comes out more than the other one, I will try this and i order the birzman Clam and the Torx Wrench, I will upload results later. Thanks
4:53 bolts & tool tolerances are important, there is some variation between brands and from each tool, the same for bolts. also weak bolts is also common. but there are bolts that are durable, but you have to get them after market. also there are different Torx & Hex driver heads I see Wera has several types, I think they got 4 types.
For me, centering SRAM brakes is no problem. Magura, however, is the bane of my existence. I don't mind the torx bolts on my calipers, I just wish they were a little deeper for a little more security.
Torx are fine if decent quality metals are used in the tool and fastener. Caliper bolts are soft I've found the same with some torx chainring bolts I bought and later one rounded. I favour hex bolts preferably hardened or titanium not alloy.
There was a good article a while back (spent 10 minutes and cannot find it) talking about how the fasteners in cycling industry are overwhelmingly complete junk with no quality grade. You will be hard pressed to find any grade rating on the bolts/nuts on our bikes. A lot of it (most of it) is manufacturers using the cheapest vendors possible. Just a scary thought we're trusting our lives to mystery Chineseium bolts on things like stem faceplates.
Not a big fan of Torx myself. Less chance of stripping maybe, but more chance of the end of the tool breaking off. If this happens on a hex wrench (unlikely) or it rounds off just grind it down back to perfect.
Thanks for the video … I ve spend hours and hours trying to center the wheel and at some point I was thinking to trow away my fucking bike. 😂 haha its so annoying
Order through your local bike shop or on Amazon Birzman Clam Disc Brake Gap Tool Silver, Set of 3 www.amazon.com/dp/B00306MRC0/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_epE6EbDYAH8CD
@@ClintGibbs Thanks Clint. I saw it, but will try to find it on the Canadian scene.... Amazon.ca as crazy prices... By the way, do you know the thickness of the metal? I am wondering if it would fit the Ultegra calipers/brake pads..?.as they look pretty tight in there, I couldn't even fit a business card haha thanks.
Dirk Schubert - If you have a lazy piston, this method forces both pistons back into the caliper, so when removed the lazy piston is now further away from the rotor than it was before, and the good piston will just travel more to compensate.
Found this video 10-minutes after my kid took a screwdriver to his brake pads trying to push 'em back in on his BRAND NEW bike, lol. Ah, timing...as they say.
I've found those particular SRAM torx bolts to also suck. I once stripped them in 2 minutes and after ordering more on another occasion, I noticed one was already stripped right out of the packaging. At $10AUD per pair of bolts, without any suitable 32mm M5 bolts (the size my bike takes) available elsewhere, it's a total waste of resources.
Yeah, just bought a bike with SRAM brakes and the torques bolts annoy me like heck. I mean whyyyyy. Also, so far, no success trying to get them centered. Like you said, those things are SO tight! There's hardly even any space for the tool to fit in.
Torx was introduced back in the day as improvement over hex, for a better transfer of torque due to increased contact area. For small bolts and low torque, such as the 3-8 Nm found in bikes, this can be neglected. Indeed, Torx are suboptimal for applications where dirt and sand can get into the head. In any case, given that there's now Hex-Plus which addresses the shortcomings of Hex, the advantage of Torx on bikes has diminished. - The best drive is, imho, the triangle. It's seen in the industry as step back, though, because angles of engagement decrease from 6 to 3 (»mechanics spend more time inserting the tools!«) and, if dirty, can be driven by Allen keys. But then, what do I know, just being an engineer…
I have been covered head to toe in all kinds of mud on rides both on and off road. Disc brakes hold up. They are not so sensitive that a finger print will cause them to fail. Yes, if you bleed them and get mineral oil on the rotor clean them, or if you hands are overly greasy from cleaning the chain, don't wipe them off on the rotor. A finger print from centering the breaks.... they will be just fine. We are not working on surgical equipment here.
@@johnbrown7156 You're spot on! This guy obviously either has commission for advertising or part ownership in the brand. Never heard such a totally shit response in my life. I've run my own bike repair business for nearly 10 years and believe me, there's absolutely no difference either with or without this "magic" tool. You go through the same method without this useless piece of metal and the results are exactly the same. Total waste of anyone's money.
Hey Clint, hopefully you will get around being able to read my comment, or anyone here for that matter in terms of advice, are Orbea bikes any good? The particular model I am seeking is the Orbea Occam Am H50 27.5 2018 model.
Buy a proper torque wrench and a set of quality bits, a wire brush, and some Loctite 222 threadlocker (it's enough to prevent loosening from vibrations). This will enable you to reassemble the brake like a pro.
I use 4 zipties, also for bleeding, thes ensures perfect bleed with used pads, I odn't use the bleed block, cus if I used the pads for a while more fluid is needed. but a tool like this would ke it even easier. as for rotors, I true the rotors regularly in Park Tool truing stand, I got the rotor truing attachment, easy to get straight rotors.
I don’t really understand this tool. It just adds extra steps to how you would align a caliper traditionally and allows additional avenues for pad and rotor contamination. It won’t solve sticky pistons either. I don’t really see the point in this thing to be perfectly honest.
There are times when you can just squeeze the brake levers with the caliper bolts loose and then tighten them and it will center. But I found this tool invaluable for many situations where that does not work.
Use beer can. Cut 2 strips and follow this vid . Bonus of beer )))
scott wilson I like hacks involving beer! 👍🏻
Easier handling if you just fold it rather than cutting 2 strips.
Omg, this is game changer ! Just bought bike with disc brakes and was struggling to fix rubbing front brake. This wee tool is a MUST!
Oh you just got me going with that. I swear it's like people that make parts in the bike industry don't ride and work on bikes. I went to change out the handle bars on my old MTB and found that all the levers and shifters were held on by the same size hex bolts EXCEPT the dropper post which was a torx of a size that was not in the multitool I carried at the time. Talk about "torxing" me off. I went down to the local bike shop and rummaged through their bolt bucket till I found the right sizes hex bolt. Oh and I have more examples that also get me going ... maybe latter I'll comment more as part of my therapy for owning bikes.
Absolutely loved this video. After spending many hours over the past 6 years messing with Sram Red disc brakes alignment it’s time to buy the tool you mention. And yes, I hate that torx screw as much as you do.
Went ahead and bought the Birzman tool, and can say it does the job nicely! Even get to give one of the three that come in the package to a road cycling buddy.
Thank you for sharing your thoughts on this tool. I am going to pick this up because I spend way too much time aligning my Level TLM brakes. As for the Torx bolt issue, I am sure you can replace the bolt with the good ol hex one. M6 internal hex 23mm from a custom fastener shop would do the trick.
I had this issue, switching my Vision Team 30 wheels to my new Roval CL50 carbon wheels with new Force rotors on the Roval wheels as well. but only had an issue on the front brake. They are the new SRAM Force eTap AXS levers too. The rear does not scrub. I tried recentering the caliper and pushing the pistons in, but it still scrubs. It's a brand new Lynskey Helix Titanium bike too, so the pistons should not be sticking yet I would imagine. I ordered that Birzman tool and I will also try removing the pads and pushing the pistons back and forth and resetting them, as well as relieving that brake line pressure too, as I live in NY where it is quite humid now. Thx. again for all the help. Your video is better than the Park tool one!
Cool didn't know these tools existed until now ordered some straight away, I am with you with those torx screws on the brake callipers!
Thanks for this video, i have never seen or heard of these before as i am new to biking, but it looks like something that more people need to know about.
Thank you Clint. I didn't know such a tool exists. For reasons that defy logic, I have never had success simply squeezing the brake.
I find that the forces exerted by the brake cable are enough to move it back where you don't want it. Tightening the screws enough to prevent this issue means the technique doesn't work.
Cool and Funny Vid.
Love your Soapbox Rant.
I too hate Torx.
I totally agree Clint - My Sram Apex 1 piston calliper and rotor tolerance appear acute - However not a bad thing but do require you to accurately centre them because of the callipers POST MOUNT TOLERANCES - Which is a superior mounting system as long as the post mount faces have been accurately machined. Sram's use of torx head bolts for calliper mounting requires you to torque them up PERFECTLY SQUARE ON otherwise you damage both bolt & Torx head driver - So I'll be changing out mine for Allen head bolts. The calliper / rotor cantering tool is excellent as is your earlier advice of using a credit card. Happy pedalling & best wishes 🙏
I bought the birzman tool a year or so ago, I also have the Hayes tool but I prefer the Birzman as it is smaller so I can take it with me. it takes a lot of the guess work out of it. I don't have a preference for torx or hex, as long as the bike has all torx or all hex.
Nice, simple little tool. Sometimes in life the simplistic bits of kit are the most useful. Seems to be a general hatred towards torx bolts, I completely agree. There is a very simple solution I have found, Swap em out! The caliper mounting bolts are M5 thread, and the disc rotor bolts are M4 Thread. Use a socket head bolt for the caliper, and a button head for the rotor bolts. Mine are stainless steel from a local garage/workshop supplier. The length of the caliper bolts will vary depending upon your rotor size and caliper bridge, but are usually 25-30mm, the rotor bolts I use are 12mm, both with hex bolt heads. The other aspect of swapping to these bolts is that I tend to check them for tightness more often, with the torx I was always scared of that one "slip" of the torque wrench and a nice round torx bolt! I know you are imperial sizes in the states, but M4/M5 must be avaialble, here in the UK we still get the odd 3/32", 5/16th etc, etc Also with these bolts, You can also use a non permanent thread lock if necessary, safe in the knowledge that you will be able to remove the bolts if needed without the fear of the "rounded torx bolt" I just use a bit of anti seize.
Oh never truer word said. I hate torx bolts. In the process of either wigging out or simply put my shimano bolts back in caliper mount and bury the sram bolts in the back garden!! You hit every point. Nice one. Martin😊
I replace any Torx screws with stainless socket head cap screws. As for the alignment thing with Hydros. Some are so simple to set up you may wonder why some complain but there is more afoot too. Such as roughly machined mounting plates that are not perpendicular to the axle or brake calliper bodies not aligned and then torqued screws that twist the calliper after perfect alignment (so you thought). And then there is that one piston that seems to work much more freely than the other.
I'm not a total perfectionist but these things test me.
handles rotor braking surface, nice way to contaminate the pads and get that lovely squeal from the oils off your fingers, what a tool
No, I typically don't touch the rotors. At 2 minutes it's hard to see in the video but I'm grabbing the tool not the rotor. But in other videos that I make, like my bike cleaning videos, I always recommend cleaning the rotors off with rubbing alcohol.
Glad you made this video. Had those issue in the past and your previous video has really helped
I find it works better if you pump the brakes then carefully tighten them while there isn't any pressure. The tool will help set the new settling point for the caliper as that's where the rubbing is happening.
Yes! I love my Birzman!
Good video and simple to understand, thanks. I just got my first bike with hydro disc brakes, had mech disc brakes before. When rainy, disc on front wheel begin to rub, how come?
If all else fails, check your pads. If they are sufficiently worn down, it might be that no amount of fiddling will center them. I suspect it might be that if the pistons extend past a certain point and one pad is slightly thicker than its counterpart, the brake doesn't have the range to self-adjust. I have a Boone with Shimano RS685 brakes. Fiddled for an hour trying all things mentioned in the video before re-setting pistons (for probably 5th time that evening) then popped in some new pads. Solved.
I like Torx on my stem where access is not a problem, but prefer hex where bolts are difficult to reach when a ball end hex key does the job.
Totally agree with your assessment of hex vs torx on disc brake caliper bolts.
Fortunately the sram mountain bike rotors still use hex.
Great videos Clint! So that Birzman tool is almost like another set of brake pads, that goes on both sides of the rotor, in between each pad. Hard to see from the video, as it looked as if it was only one sided.
The Birzman tool is very thin. Much more than a set of brake pads.
One other question Clint, do you recommend turning the lever contact bolt on the top of the lever, all the way inward first, to allow you to back that out if needed?
I actually don’t do that but it is a good idea if the tool still does not center your brakes. From time to time you also may have to relieve some fluid pressure out of the system, as I showed in my video of how to fix dragging brake pads
Great video, mate! Yeah, Torx bolts are definitely the worst ones. Great tips!
Wow, that was super helpful! I just recently got my new Trek Checkpoint ALR4 Adventure Bike and the first issue I ran into were squealing disc brakes and centering them correctly was a real pain. So, I just ordered the Birzman tool the moment I finished watching this video.
👍
They just arrived and indeed worked like a charm. Fantastic little doohickies. Thanks again for the recommendation.
Hey Clint, does this applicable only to hydraulic double, quad pistons or can I even use it to my other bike its mechanical disc brake single piston. Hope you notice my comment. Ride safe!
This may work with mechanical disc brakes but probably not. Usually mechanical brakes only have one piston moves. Typically there is a dial on the outside of the caliper that allows you to rotate until the piston is in the right position. It’s honestly been such a long time since I’ve owned mechanical brakes that I really can’t remember exactly how to center them!
@@ClintGibbs I see, just gonna use it to my hydraulics then. Thank you for answering my question Clint. Ride safe always!
Thanks heaps for the video Clint. I have a Birzman tool kit, with the centring tool (and a full, very nice set of torx wrenches 😁). Could never find info on how to use it...
Hi Clint. Nice Vid.
Love Birzman - great tools and value for money. However, still looking for a Piston Press, since the Birzman one I got didn't fit into my Shimano road hydraulic calipers. Wouldn't recommend a screwdriver since it could score the pads/pistons.
BTW, also worth checking if there's any sticky pistons - one side may be moving less (if any) than the other. Centering will still seem good, until you're out on the road. But you'll probably end up with disc rub (esp when out of saddle), uneven wear and poss disc warp.
As for Torx, replace them all with Hex and be done with it (will also minimise number of tools to carry).
-)
Is using a screwdriver to reset brake pads a good idea? Is it better to use the Park tool for resetting brake pads?
Never been an issue for me. I try to make bike maintenance accessible to more people by keeping them from having to go out and purchase a lot of tools.
I have used anything that will fit in there to pry them apart. They are not as delicate as you think as long as you are careful.
My bike, with Shimano brakes, came with a red plastics part for dealing with the pistons. And another for centering. Might be worth to check what your bike (or brakes) came with before buying new stuff.
I use small plastic tire levers.
Two suggestions: Don’t touch the tool with your fingers to avoid transferring grease to the pads. Also, remove the pads before pushing back the pistons to avoid scratching the pad surface.
Thanks for posting that, I didn't know a tool existed. Ordered!
thanks for a helpfull video, i have Sram hydraulic brakes on my road bike and havent been able to solve the piston problem where one of them comes out more than the other one, I will try this and i order the birzman Clam and the Torx Wrench, I will upload results later. Thanks
4:53 bolts & tool tolerances are important, there is some variation between brands and from each tool, the same for bolts.
also weak bolts is also common. but there are bolts that are durable, but you have to get them after market.
also there are different Torx & Hex driver heads I see Wera has several types, I think they got 4 types.
Can you explain why you only put that tool on one side of the rotor? I would think you would need one on each side to center it properly.
The tool is split and goes on both sides of the rotor
Hate TORX - for cycling, automotive or home construction - they all strip-out - Thank you for the centering tips...
Informative, useful!👏👏🙌
For me, centering SRAM brakes is no problem. Magura, however, is the bane of my existence. I don't mind the torx bolts on my calipers, I just wish they were a little deeper for a little more security.
Torx are fine if decent quality metals are used in the tool and fastener. Caliper bolts are soft I've found the same with some torx chainring bolts I bought and later one rounded. I favour hex bolts preferably hardened or titanium not alloy.
There was a good article a while back (spent 10 minutes and cannot find it) talking about how the fasteners in cycling industry are overwhelmingly complete junk with no quality grade. You will be hard pressed to find any grade rating on the bolts/nuts on our bikes. A lot of it (most of it) is manufacturers using the cheapest vendors possible. Just a scary thought we're trusting our lives to mystery Chineseium bolts on things like stem faceplates.
All Ti bolts will be an Al/Ti/x alloy, except perhaps in medical applications. Ti itself is rather flexible, and won't make very good rigid bolts.
Great. Video. But being from the UK it's so odd to see the front brake on the wrong side :)
Not a big fan of Torx myself. Less chance of stripping maybe, but more chance of the end of the tool breaking off. If this happens on a hex wrench (unlikely) or it rounds off just grind it down back to perfect.
Why is this any better than just squeezing the brakes onto the rotors without the gap tool? I'm not saying it isn't better, just wondering.
Sometimes just squeezing the brakes doesn't work and you need something to put space between the pads and rotors.
Great video. Thanks!
Agreed on the torxs
The first thing to try is making sure your wheel is seated correctly in the frame before moving onto the other remedies.
Yes. Fortunately most bikes today are through axle which eliminates that problem.
Thanks for the video … I ve spend hours and hours trying to center the wheel and at some point I was thinking to trow away my fucking bike. 😂 haha its so annoying
If you haven't seen it, here's another video that may help if you still have issues
ruclips.net/video/4C9R_H_GLKI/видео.html
when I squeeze brake lever, should I do it firmly or lightly? I have Sram axs hydraulic brake for my road bike.
Firmly, as in how much you would brake coming to a stop sign
So when I center them I get no rubbing but when I use my brakes the rubbing is back
Make sure you were tightening your caliper bolts enough
Hi Clint... it's been a while. Where do you buy this tool?
Order through your local bike shop or on Amazon
Birzman Clam Disc Brake Gap Tool Silver, Set of 3 www.amazon.com/dp/B00306MRC0/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_epE6EbDYAH8CD
@@ClintGibbs Thanks Clint. I saw it, but will try to find it on the Canadian scene.... Amazon.ca as crazy prices... By the way, do you know the thickness of the metal? I am wondering if it would fit the Ultegra calipers/brake pads..?.as they look pretty tight in there, I couldn't even fit a business card haha thanks.
Thanks great review, I hate torx bolt as well
I just place a folded business card between the rotor and pads. A little more finicky, but free.
4:44 no your not the only one having this problem I have to :P
Why is this better than just doing the same procedure without the tool on the rotor?
Because sometimes (with road brakes most of the time) it doesn’t work without the tool.
Dirk Schubert - If you have a lazy piston, this method forces both pistons back into the caliper, so when removed the lazy piston is now further away from the rotor than it was before, and the good piston will just travel more to compensate.
Good video
Found this video 10-minutes after my kid took a screwdriver to his brake pads trying to push 'em back in on his BRAND NEW bike, lol. Ah, timing...as they say.
I've found those particular SRAM torx bolts to also suck. I once stripped them in 2 minutes and after ordering more on another occasion, I noticed one was already stripped right out of the packaging. At $10AUD per pair of bolts, without any suitable 32mm M5 bolts (the size my bike takes) available elsewhere, it's a total waste of resources.
Agree. They are worthless.
Yeah, just bought a bike with SRAM brakes and the torques bolts annoy me like heck. I mean whyyyyy. Also, so far, no success trying to get them centered. Like you said, those things are SO tight! There's hardly even any space for the tool to fit in.
Check out this video too:
ruclips.net/video/4C9R_H_GLKI/видео.html
@@ClintGibbs already had, thanks! I'll just keep fiddling until they're quiet 😊
Sir ..the tool Stainless steel?
As far as I know it's stainless
are the tools/clams all the same thickness or can they be combined for a wider clearance?
They are all the same
thank you
Why not just replace the torx bolts with hex bolts?
You can, you just have to find the right diameter and right length. The point is, we shouldn’t have to go through that hassle.
I thought the entire reasoning behind Torx was that they are more resistant to stripping.
You would think, but in practice it's not the case. The problem is the bolt heads are not deep enough.
Torx are also often rounded heads. With a standard Allen screw there’s usually something to grab if they do strip.
trooperJac - On cap head bolts it is. On button/pan bolts it's shallow.
Depends. Some torch bolts are really deep and are great
Torx was introduced back in the day as improvement over hex, for a better transfer of torque due to increased contact area. For small bolts and low torque, such as the 3-8 Nm found in bikes, this can be neglected. Indeed, Torx are suboptimal for applications where dirt and sand can get into the head. In any case, given that there's now Hex-Plus which addresses the shortcomings of Hex, the advantage of Torx on bikes has diminished. - The best drive is, imho, the triangle. It's seen in the industry as step back, though, because angles of engagement decrease from 6 to 3 (»mechanics spend more time inserting the tools!«) and, if dirty, can be driven by Allen keys. But then, what do I know, just being an engineer…
I do hate torx. I have a handful of twisted or broken torx bits.
Thx bud. imma try it with a guitar pick.
Just make sure you use one pick on each side of the rotor
Clint, how about contaminating the rotor by using your hands?!
Just wipe them off with rubbing alcohol when you’re done and you’re fine. Or use gloves if you want.
I have been covered head to toe in all kinds of mud on rides both on and off road. Disc brakes hold up. They are not so sensitive that a finger print will cause them to fail. Yes, if you bleed them and get mineral oil on the rotor clean them, or if you hands are overly greasy from cleaning the chain, don't wipe them off on the rotor. A finger print from centering the breaks.... they will be just fine. We are not working on surgical equipment here.
Maybe I’m a noob, but not sure why you need the tool, when you can just brake on the caliper. It’s the same process minus the “tool”.
Because sometimes (with road brakes most of the time) it doesn’t work without the tool.
Give it a shot. If it works....great. In my experience with mountain brakes, it NEVER works.
@@ClintGibbs I had this question too and am disappointed with this non-answer "you need it 'cause you need it".
@@johnbrown7156 You're spot on! This guy obviously either has commission for advertising or part ownership in the brand. Never heard such a totally shit response in my life. I've run my own bike repair business for nearly 10 years and believe me, there's absolutely no difference either with or without this "magic" tool. You go through the same method without this useless piece of metal and the results are exactly the same. Total waste of anyone's money.
Hey Clint, hopefully you will get around being able to read my comment, or anyone here for that matter in terms of advice, are Orbea bikes any good? The particular model I am seeking is the Orbea Occam Am H50 27.5 2018 model.
Don't know from experience Chris but some of the GCN guys ride them often in their videos so I would say yes.
Yes, Orbea are really good bikes. I used to have one. Here's a review I made years ago:
ruclips.net/video/vjeNvDKWh84/видео.html
They're a good brand with high quality bikes.
Thanks for the info and reply!
Thanks for the info!
Buy a proper torque wrench and a set of quality bits, a wire brush, and some Loctite 222 threadlocker (it's enough to prevent loosening from vibrations). This will enable you to reassemble the brake like a pro.
I use 4 zipties, also for bleeding, thes ensures perfect bleed with used pads, I odn't use the bleed block, cus if I used the pads for a while more fluid is needed. but a tool like this would ke it even easier.
as for rotors, I true the rotors regularly in Park Tool truing stand, I got the rotor truing attachment, easy to get straight rotors.
What did sram do that what the hecj
Yes...torx bolts suck. Bike industry should have more unified standards. Expensive having different tools for different manufacturers.
Just get a torque wrench and a Wera »Metal 1« bitset or similar.
Great tip and yes torx bolts suck
Don’t hate the torx...
Nice tool, but you should do that with gloves, so you don't put any human grease on the rotors. :p
I don’t really understand this tool. It just adds extra steps to how you would align a caliper traditionally and allows additional avenues for pad and rotor contamination. It won’t solve sticky pistons either. I don’t really see the point in this thing to be perfectly honest.
There are times when you can just squeeze the brake levers with the caliper bolts loose and then tighten them and it will center. But I found this tool invaluable for many situations where that does not work.
It’s not really important.Only if you really hate the sound of rubbing brakes.
ALLEN KEY ! I HATE THEM TOO 35YRS RIDING !
I hate Torx as well .
You don't need a tool. Just squeeze and tighten and all is centered.
Sometimes that doesn't work, unfortunately
I hate Torx as well!
(Redacted) torx bolts! (I refuse to dignify torx by capitalizing it. My spell Czech can go torx itself.)
Torx sucks!! Have had the same issue with sram brake bolts, horrible
Well, you will certainly not be getting any products from SRAM to test!
Just telling it like it is.
Yeah man, torx head bolts are super stupid!!
Use business cards.
Seriously, fuck torx bolts. Why? Just... why?
Another reason shimano brakes are just better.
Hate torx crew don't why it exist
Torx sucks.