Acquired a 545 today and didn't know a single thing about it and your video is absolutely fantastic. Thank you for taking time out of your day to teach us. Respect.
I have a545-H3 that I got for free for fixing someone's computer that was moving . They had a couple other machines and didn't want to move it. I've since completely restored it right down to the hammer finish paint. I used to use if for sewing patches onto jackets and vests but I've since started doing leather work. I'm tuning the machine for that now. This is one of the best overall views I've seen for these machines.
Very informative video. I ran across a Pfaff 145 and because of your information, I am in the process of buying it. Great to see people still supporting these older machines.
LOVE all this valuable information, Thank You so much, I have the Pfaff 145 H4, Gave her a good oiling and cleaning and she is running smooth as butter! Thanks again for sharing your knowledge!
Very well made video. You clearly know what you are talking about and explain very well. One suggestion; realize your audience is not USA only when you discuss availability of machines and parts. You for example talk about Consew vs. Pfaff and how common they are... On the Netherlands 'craigslist' I just will found 2 consews against 280 Pfaffs...
Thank you for the excellent explanation of the Pfaff 545 H4, etc. I have that H4 variant and had been threading the upper thread improperly. Also, I had missed the hidden oil points. Thank you!
I have been struggling with my Pfaff 145 H3 since I bought it. Thank you SO much for going thru all of these steps and explaining the machine, I really appreciate your help.
Thanks! Start with the simple things like the correct needle system 134-35 for the H3 variant of the 145. Versus 190 system needles for H4 machines. Also be sure that your thread size is a good match for your needle size. I typically use 92 weight thread with a #19 or #20 size needle. Jumping up to 138 thread usually causes problems, unless you dial the whole machine to suit thicker thread. If that doesn't help, it may need a full time and tune. Best to you
Thank you for this tutorial. There is a Pfaff 145 in an auction right now when nobody has bid on it. There is less than 24 hours left in the auction and I was wondering what this machine is capable of and whether I should put a bid on it. After this I think I I will put a bid on it. Even if the sewing machine is junk the table are in great shape and can be used with my Willcox and Gibbs High Speed lockstitch.
Hi Dale, a Pfaff 145 CLMNP H3 or H4 is a typical upholstery weight industrial walking foot sewing machine. There are many variants, but the most common says CLPMN on the plaque. That one is capable of sewing up to 3/8" of compressed leather or material.
@TheThoughtfulWoodworker On the post of the sewing machine there is exactly the same number that you had in the video. I will be a bidding on it because sometimes people do not bid on them, and they go to scrap. I assumed it was an upholstery machine or leather machine, but wanted to watch your video to make sure. Thank you
This is a very informative video of a 145 pfaff. I purchased one that i believe was used for parts and repaired, it is missing many things as the knee lift lever hinge to spring, gear covers and top plates, any idea where these hard to find these parts? I own a 145 H4 almost new so i have something to compare
Excellent video with great camera work. I have a Pfaff 545-h4 that I have to relearn every time I use it because I use it seldom. I subscribed to your channel. I still don't know how a subscription works.
Very well put together instructional video, i have no problems with my 145 h-4 other than i wish i could space my stitch a little more for top stitching, so my question is is there anyway to do so.The factory stitch width is just not spaced enough. TYIA 27:5327:53
Thanks. There are ways to modify max stitch length, but I don't recommend it because your reverse stitch length won't match. Leatherworker.net may have an old blog post on the topic. Best to you.
I've had my Pfaff 145 H4 for over 20 years. Other than reading the manual, I have had no guidance on the machine! Your video is the absolute Best information! I do have some questions tho. Regarding the wing nut on the back you refer to "steppage" and using the wing nut to raise or lower it for the steppage..What does that mean? And, on the bottom of the machine you mention the grease covers on both sides. Do you somehow take them off and where do you apply the grease? Also you mentioned the safety clutch. Should that have grease or oil applied also? The explanation of the needle system was very clear too. I have learned so much about my machine today! Thank you!!!
Hi Ann, that's great to hear. Thanks for the positive feedback. The wing nut controls how high the feet step relative to one another. That's all I mean by steppage. As far as the grease covers underneath, you can remove the metal covers and replace the grease inside. Just smear some on the gears and re-install the covers. Everywhere else I just use sewing machine oil as recommended in the manual. Best
Very nice video. I was wondering which would you choose if the price was very similar. The Pfaff 145, Consew 226r or Juki 562. Locally, all three are very similar in price. Your sage advice will help me choose a machine that will be used with care.
My regular upholstery machine is a Juki LU-563. That's the same as a Juki 562 except has a super large U style bobbin. So between the three I'd take the 562 first, and the Consew 226 second. Condition plays a big factor too. Good luck with your decision!
What a great video! I have a small problem on my newly purchased old pfaff, it seems to be stuck in reverse and we can see that someone has tried to adjust it because some of the screws are damaged. The motor sounds good, the machine looks good, we got is to the point that the feet are working as they should but still in reverse. Any help will be apreciated thank you.
Well the simplest explanation is that the motor direction got reversed. This only applies to servo motors though. If that's what you have, just find the switch on the motor that reverses the direction. It won't sew in the reverse direction at all Otherwise I suppose it could be the reverse lever mechanically stuck in the up position.
I loved this video. I am 75 and have a Pfaff 145 - H4 6/1C. I purchased it several years ago for my wife, but she hasn't used it. It was used by a lady who did shoe and clothing repairs and then it was purchased by a man who made leather products and repairs for horse shows. That is who I purchased it from. I cleaned the case and the table and had it serviced by an industrial sewing machine company in Beloit Wisconsin. NOW I intend to do some leather reupholstery even though I have never sewn anything in my life. So, I just want to tell you this video is magnificent. If I could download it, I would just to have it for reference when needed. I am going to have a lot of questions, I think, as I grow more familiar with the machine, with sewing leather, and with upholstery in general. Right now, I have two dying questions. Is there a guide I can attach to the machine so I can set the needle at a constant distance from the edge of my piece? I think I may make very wavy or crooked seams. My second question has to do with how s-l-l-o-o-o-w-w-w you were able to sew. I do not have a servo - just a regular electric motor and I need to be able to sew slowly until I can become more familiar with the machine and the process. I very much appreciate any instructions or advice you can give me. Best regards, DG Crum DeKalb, IL
Hi Darryl, thanks for the nice comments. For sewing straight lines you can use an edge guide. I recommend a simple magnetic guide that you can get from Sailrite or any sewing website. To slow the machine down, you'll need to install a servo motor. Use a small motor pulley for even more control. Here's the video on installing a servo ... ruclips.net/video/Dx_rS9Fzvfo/видео.html Best
@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker You are the best. If I ever become a world-renowned reupholstery artist, I owe it all to you. Thank you again for the information. Uh, if my wife happens to read this, Thoughtful, I owe it all to her. Just covering my bases, okay.
@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker One more question, Thoughtful. Where can I purchase a servo motor kit and what model did you install on your Pfaff 145 H4? Thank you for all of the help.
I have a 1245 and love it this tutorial ❤❤ I have a question that I can't find anything on it. The reverse and stitch length lever fell out of the machine how do I put it back in as if I just push it in there I'm not able to adjust the stitch length. Do I need to take the plate off and adjust it inside? Do you have a place where you can answer certain questions? Thank you lynn
@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker Thanks for your getting back to me. The inside of this machine is pretty hairy with dust animals everywhere. Cleaning and a parts needed list will be a starting place. I will continue to look for the "service manual" Any thoughts on where to find one. All the best neal sw fla
Thanks! Check some of my other threading videos (consew 226, consew 206rb, and general Juki 563 videos) I think there's a tutorial on installing a needle. Basically the groove faces left, and the scarf faces right. Be sure to use the right needle system for your machine. 134-35 for Pfaff 145 H3, and 190 needle system for H4 model Best
Nice going! You can find bobbins for a 145 here amzn.to/3L055n6 Pfaff 145 H3 needles here amzn.to/3EguczE Pfaff 145 H4 needle 190LR for leather here www.ebay.com/itm/303480740497?hash=item46a8dc9a91:g:rFUAAOSwhY1eQM6z good luck!
Thank you for all the great information I have a Fnaf 545 and for some reason my top thread on the needle side continues to get cut by something. Do you have any recommendations?
Thank you so much for the reply. I ended up having the needle spun in the opposite direction, and the sharp piece on the bobbin was impacting the needle on rotation.
Thank you for a very informative and nicely edited video. The bobbin winder on my Pfaff 145 has a broken spindle (the part where the bobbin attaches). I found a replacement spindle, but I can't seem to figure out how to remove the existing spindle from the wheel. Does anyone know how to remove the spindle? I see no retaining screw. Is it pressed on? Thanks.
Hi there! Hope you can answer this question and that it makes sense! When timing my Pfaff 545…instructions say to lower the needle to the lowest position…what if the needle bar is set too low /lower than it should be? Say you had to replace your needle bar and you didn’t reference where the bar came out of…how would you know where about to put the new needle bar? This is plaguing my mind! Also I talked to you about my tread coming out of the needle guide all the time…, so I turned the needle bar a bit and adjust my needle…thread still is coming out and can tend to shred if I leave it out…could I rig up a little loop to keep the thread in place?
The hook is your only reference. Needle bar needs to be set so the hook passes 1/16" above the eye of the needle. Consew uses a loop for the needle bar thread guide, but it needs a screw to retain it. As you know, Pfaff needle bars are different with that slot to hold thread. Sounds like you'll need to replace the needle bar. Thanks
I found the manual. In fact I have one that is for a few of them (that type). My 145 is almost up and running. Got to mount the motor and I am off and sewing.
Thanks for all your videos on the Pfaff 145. I was wondering if I could get your opinion. I was excited to find a 145 for $400 a couple months ago. I took it into a shop to have it oiled and timed which cost $200. It sewed beautiful for about an hour then it started tangling the needle thread in the bobbin area. I took it back in for service and was informed it need a new hook and plate. This will cost another $200. So total I will have about $800 in a machine who's paint is very worn from use. Would u think spending the $200 on new hook and plate mechanism is worth it? Or cut my losses and get something else? Thanks
Thanks for the kind words. I would have it fixed, if you're not comfortable replacing the hook. If you love it, you'll have a keeper. If not you can sell it at break even cost.
@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker thank you. I appreciate the quick response. I've learned everything from your channel about the 145. Thank you very much for your input. I will move forward with the repair
Thank you so much for this video! I was told incorrectly how to thread the machine! Question - my hand wheel is very tight (squeaks when I sew) and when I pull the material (leather and material) away from the machine, after sewing, it's very tight. I have to release the thread tension of the top thread to give me slack to pull away from the needle to cut the thread. My machine jams quite a bit. There aren't many people in my area who have experience with this machine so I am wondering if you think the tight hand wheel is causing my machine to squeak and then jam. I have loosed up the tension to where it's almost at the edge of the tension knob but then my bottom stitch is loose. I did install a servo motor and speed reducer (looks like the one you have). By any chance could the servo motor or belt cause issues with the hand wheel? I am using 138 thread with the correct needle size but wondering if it is too thick. Although I thought that this machine could handle 138. Thank you!
Hi Kim, I would start with 92 weight thread and a #20 needle. Make sure to use 134-35 needles if it's an H3 model or 190 system needles for an H4 model. You will always need to raise the pressor foot (or operate the knee lift) to release the threads. The release will be much easier with 92 weight thread. I don't enjoy sewing with 138 thread, because it pretty well maxes out the machine. The squeak can be caused by a new belt or if the motor pulley doesn't align with the handwheel pulley. Sight down through the slot in the table to check pulley alignment. Best of luck!
Thank you! I will try 92! Oddly enough, I added oil near the handwheel where you mention in the video and that helped quite a bit. Still some squeak when I manually use the handwheel but at least its gone while I am sewing. I will check the belts. Thank for the reply!!
Oh and thank you so much for explaining the needle difference between H3 and H4. I do have H3 and have lots of 190 needles and just by chance also ordered 135 so fortunately I am using the correct needle size so if you need a bunch of 190s, I have some to give away!
Great video! Thanks! I'm considering purchasing a phaff 145 6b walking foot. The owner said it needs the timing adjusted and a servicing. Is the timing hard to adjust if it isn't a needle problem? Thank you kindly!
Thanks! The timing isn't hard to adjust, but I would proceed with caution if you can't try it before you buy it. Make sure the plaque says CLPMN. I'm not familiar with the 6b sub model variant. Usually they're listed as 145h3 standard lift of 145H4 high lift. I'm worried it might be a specialized factory machine without four motion drop feed. Not sure though. Good luck researching it, I couldn't find much info on a 1456b.
Very usefull video, thank you! Also if you can help me i have question for you about my pfaff machine and situation. I have pfaff 145VB6B GM (i think "B" is little worned, its old machine :). It is super fast machine so i want to install new servo motor so i can speed it down. But do you think also i can use thicker treads on this machine. Thicker than "40", mb 20 or even 10. Is it possible to use that treads if i change needle on it. Would be very helpfull, thanks!
Thanks Dean. The designation on that Pfaff 145 is a little different than I'm used to. Pfaff made so many special factory machines for special purposes, it's hard to know until you see it in person. Usually "B" means for medium weight materials, and "G" confusingly means large bobbin (because on a Consew a G bobbin is a standard size). I can't find reference to the specific machine you mentioned, so it must not be as common as a 145 CLMPN that I usually see. C= Medium to heavy weight, L= for sewing leather, M= has a safety clutch device, P= has 4-motion drop feed, N= denotes maximum stitch length, 6mm if I recall correctly. If it is indeed a medium weight machine, it will sew up to 92 weight thread like most industrial sewing machines. Good luck!
I recently bought a pfaff 545h4 and the guy told me it ran with 135x17 needles. It’s sews okay but sounds pretty clunky. Should I just reset needle bar at to take 190 needles again?
I certainly would. That's what it was designed to sew with. I like 190 needles better anyway, because they are a little longer, with less chance of the needle bar hitting the presser foot. Just stay on the high side of needle sizes. For instance, if 92 weight thread can use a size 18,19 or 20 needle, choose the #20. Less needle breaks that way. Best
Great content! I have pfaff 545, when I lift the presser foot, it won’t release tension and tension adjustment is almost all the way out, any ideas would be helpful Thanks
I don't have this machine anymore. Timing is pretty easy on the Pfaff once you see it done. Hopefully there's already a video on it. Sorry I can't be more help.
@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker no worries. I just got started and got the 145 here. When doing the rotation with the hand wheels, there is one spot.where it requires a lot of force to complete the rotation? Is this normal or should all rotations be smooth ?
@@Luckystudio13 if you take the belt off the machine, so it's not connected to the motor, it should be smooth rotating the hand wheel. Make sure you hit all the lube spots on the head. Once the belt is back in place, there is normally friction from the motor brake. Partially depress the foot pedal to release the brake. Best
@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker copy that. The hand wheel is smooth but there is one spot during the rotation that seems like the bobbins area under the needle is binding onto something tight. (So tight like 2 metals are stuck onto each other). Just one section and then it is smooth again. This is without the motor belt and needle on.
@@Luckystudio13 lift the presser foot and run it at speed for a while. Make sure all lube points are oiled first. I had a Pfaff that wouldn't budge, and it worked loose with oil and running it a bit. Good luck with your machine.
Thanks for your video. I just got a 145 to bring back to life. What kind of servo motor did you install. I am looking forward to the adventure of restoring this machine. All the best neal sw fla
Hi there, I’ve just acquired a Pfaff 545 H3 6/01 and I’m looking to find a service manual for it… do you know where I can find it? I have found the instruction manual and parts manual… or is there another machine that would have the same specs… im thinking of timing instructions if needed… great video by the way…sincerely Heather
I don't know where to find a service manual anymore. There may be videos showing how to time a Pfaff 145 / 545. It's pretty easy once you know what screws to loosen. I'd suggest looking for a general industrial sewing machine repair pamphlet or book. It will cover all the main types of machines, and you'll be able to figure it out. Again, the challenge is finding one. Best of luck with your machine! They're great once you get them tuned.
I found instructions for servicing your Pfaff here... dixiesewing.com/PFAFF%20SERVICE%20BOOK.htm Follow the link to your model. It starts as a basic instruction manual, but keep reading and you'll see written instructions for various adjustments. Best
Great Video! I learned a lot from your video. Thank you so much. I’m thinking of upgrading my motor to a servo motor with a needle positioner. I want to slow it down to do leather work. Do you by chance know the servo motor brand and model number? And do you like that servo motor?
Thanks Greg. I use the Techsew 550w analog servo with a simple dial to adjust the max speed. If you plan to use a needle positioner, you'll need to get a digital servo. Make sure the motor you get is compatible with a needle positioner, because the Techsew and similar servos can't accept one. I use a speed reducer on both my machines, so a needle positioner isn't needed. Good luck!
1940s on, into the 80s and 90s I think for some models. You might poke around over at leatherworkers.net Someone had a date code list going. Best of luck with your search.
Another question - and I am sorry for asking because I feel like I am taking advantage of your good nature, but - I cannot seem to find a 190 (LR) Size 20 needle unless it is in a box of 100. Until I know what the heck I am doing, I would prefer to buy several packets of 10. Please tell me what I am doing wrong that I can find the 190/20 but only in R? I've ordered the motor, pulley and belt, and magnetic guide. I am so excited. Also, do you still have a woodworking youtube channel? I want to show you something I am doing. It is not something really cool but it is something. I bought an old carpenter's toolbox and I am converting it into a small desk. His union card was in the toolbox and it was dated 1922 so I think the toolbox is over 100 years old. I tried to give it to one of his family members and I searched for a good while on the internet. I only found one person and that person would not respond so I decided to honor the man by making a desk out of the toolbox. Enjoy your week and again thank you for your help.
That's awesome you popped for the motor! You'll love a servo. I usually buy most of my needles off eBay. Click on each listing, and see if they have options for 10 needles at a time. I just have one RUclips channel for now, with both woodworking and heavy sewing content. Your tool box / desk project sounds like a great one. Best of luck!
Okay, here I am again. I have a 3D printer and so I ordered some bar magnets and made my own magnetic guide. The problem is the guide swivels on one end so it really does not work for me. In fact, it is just like one I ordered some time ago. So, I keep looking for sources to make a good guide for my 145. The other day, it struck me that I could make a tee track on my table that would allow me to set a guide, but then I realized a guide is about the only thing I would use the track for so I gave up that idea. Now, I am thinking of another approach and then it struck me that I should ask the guru of leather upholstery and wood working. So, what do you do to make the guide on your Pfaff stay in place and straight?
Hi Daryl, you can use cheap magnetic guides from online sources. They seem to work fine. If I'm using the small magnetic guides I use two. Long guides like they sell at Sailrite just one is needed. Otherwise you can attach a screw-on edge guide. Most machines are tapped for guide holes, but if not you can tap holes in the bobbin slide plate. Magnetic guides are easier to take on and off though. Best
@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker Thank you. Enjoy your week. My problem is I am so new at all of this and I try to watch everything because I am prone to screwing up. As a result, I need these guides like a 6-year-old child needs those inflatable things they put in the gutters for bumper pool. Seriously, I am so prone to making mistakes that I tend to be over-cautious about any part of it. Again, thank you and enjoy your week.
can you tell me what is the heaviest thread you have used and what needle? I just bough tone of these machines but am a complete novice. I've started leather work mainly making knife sheaths. Thanks :-)
Hi Gorgon, I usually use 92 weight thread with a #20 needle. The functional max for the machine is #138 thread with a #22 needle (or step up to a #23 for leather). Best of luck with it!
I just asked a long, involved question but it seems to have disappeared when I added the funding. I bought the presser feet on eBay and it turns out the teeth on the bottom of the foot are smooth to the point that I cannot imagine they are good at gripping the leather. I have an original Pfaff presser foot and the teeth are sharp and grip nicely. Does this sharpness or smoothness matter and if it does, is there a way of sharpening the teeth with a file or something? Thank you.
I usually use smooth bottom presser feet, but teeth or ok as well. Teeth can scratch leather when you topstitch. Pfaff's usually have such strong foot pressure springs, I doubt it will be an issue for you. Good luck, and thanks again!
Hi hello, thank you for this gr8 video... ive got a question, apart from the lever where we setup the stitch lenght is there any way to sort the stitch size? how can i send u a video to show up why i say this? thank you
Hi Marcos, you are correct the stitch length is adjusted by turning the knob on the reverse lever. Sometimes a machine will be missing a little square metal piece between the knob and slotted plate in the machine. Or sometimes the piece will be upside down. When that happens, your reverse stitching won't match the forward stitch length. Other than that little part being missing or installed upside down, the Pfaff stitch length mechanism isn't easily adjusted. Thanks
@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker Thank you, ive just checked and stitch lengh on pfaff can´t get more than 3mm check video with my seiko VS pfaff..... ruclips.net/video/gwJR-ezA0hQ/видео.html
I am sorry to bother you again but when I purchased my 145 (used), it came with several different feet. When I was watching your video on sewing in zippers, I realized I needed to find the feet to see if I had a zipper foot. I cannot find them anywhere and my fear is that I might have thrown them out by accident. I need to get a zipper foot for my 145 and I have no idea what brand I should buy. Can you please give me some advice on the brand and where I might buy one? Thank you.
I buy Pfaff 145 feet on eBay. They are various brands, and none genuine Pfaff, but they work well. I like to have a left zipper foot, right zipper foot, and 1/4" cording foot for all my machines. Good luck with it!
@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker I have another question. My machine came with a single-toe (left) foot on it. All of this talk about different types of feet based on application makes me wonder just how much I do not know on this particular subject so I am looking for a pictural that shows the different feet for the different sewing requirements. Do you know of such a thing? Thank you for all of your help.
@@darrylcrum2495 Not a lot of great resources on that topic. eBay will show pictures. A left zipper foot, right zipper foot, and 1/4" piping foot will do most everything. I probably have close to 50 feet sets, but only use those three.
@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker Uh, LOL! Half a centipede. Until my three new feet come in, I am a pogo stick. I still need to buy the 1/4 pipping. By the way, I just bought a plier stapler. I like that idea a lot! And with regard to my one-toe footer, I think that might be what is pulling my leather to the left enough to be a bother. I could be wrong, thought. Enjoy your week. I am going to leave you alone for a few days.
I noticed that your foot attachment on your H4 looks to me to be a welting or piping foot. Is that a foot that you personally use for regular stitching as you have demonstrated? Or did it just happen to be the foot attachment that you had on the machine at the time?
I like to have a 1/4" welting foot, left zipper foot, and right zipper foot for each sewing machine. I would say I use the welting foot for 90% of my sewing. Hope that helps!
Yes thanks, that does help. I have the same attachment but I've only used it for making piping previously. The only other foot I have, has a very short "footprint" so to say. Which makes it difficult when getting started on a stitch at the beginning. I keep catching the material, and it bunches up. Plus not having a servo doesn't help either. I like the long footprint on that welting foot, so I think I'll start using it in the future for regular stitching. Thanks again. I really need to get a servo motor.@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker
Thanks for that link. Looks like a pretty straight forward process. Your co-worker seems to be lacking a wee bit of enthusiasm though. :) @@TheThoughtfulWoodworker
What is the cause of my walking foot following the feed dog into its slot on the return stroke? I've tried all manner of adjustments but I can't get it to stop doing it.....
Try backing the spring pressure off for the presser foot. It's either a double knurled nut on top of the leaf spring (if so equipped) or a knob on the top left of the head if it's a newer model. Also, make sure the wing nut adjustment isn't loose on the back of the machine. That wing nut needs to be snug for the walking foot to work. Hope you get it sorted!
My Pfaff machine is having problems. The bobbin case jiggles a little causing a small gap between the pieces. The top thread gets stuck in it causing it all to bunch up and knot. How do I fix this?
I would start by confirming you have the right bobbin size. G style for 145 or M style for 545. Needle system is a source of confusion on Pfaffs too. 134-35 needle system for H3 models, and 190 needle system for H4 models.
I have the exact machine you are using. I have everything threaded correctly but it won’t pick up the bobbin thread. The needle thread literally gets stuck and I have to cut it out. Any suggestions?
Try setting it up with 92 weight thread and a #20 size needle. Be sure to use a 134-35 needle type for an H4 or a 190 needle system from an H4. If you use a short needs in an H4 it won't sew right. Best
C= medium class machine, L= for leather, P= 4 motion drop feed, M= machine has safety clutch, N= 6mm max stitch length. H3= standard lift, H4= high lift. The number such as 6-01 describe what specific sub-model it is. As long as it says "CLPMN", I've always been happy with them. If this one has only 3 motion drop feed, it might still work fine for your needs. Best of luck!
Sorry, I can't find much information about a Pfaff 9013. Key factors to look for are 1. Is is a walking foot? 2. Is it a needle feed machine? 3. How heavy of thread can it sew? 4. What material thickness can it sew? Sorry I can't offer specific details on this model. Best of luck.
I have a Pfaff 145, I had it set up recently by a machine repair person, when I got it back my knee lift/presser foot lift does not function while the needle is in the vinyl/fabric. When the needle is up The knee lift works. How would i fix this?
Hi Michael, so the knee lift roller might be stuck on the wrong side of the machine lever. Just a guess. Otherwise you'll have to make small adjustments to the knee lift itself. Make sure it's raising high enough to engage the lever under the head. Pfaffs should have a roller wheel on the knee lift. Many are missing that part, or have been scabbed together with incorrect parts. Best
Warn needle bar bushings. It happens with older machines as they wear out. Or it could simply be a skipped stitch. If it's just a skipped stitch, check thread path, quality of winding on bobbin, upper tension check spring, hook timing and hook spacing.
I would put any projects aside, and set the machine up with 92 weight thread and the correct needle. Pfaff H3 standard lift machines need a 134-35 needle system, while H4 models use a 190 needle system. Use a size 20 needle for 92 weight thread. Then increase upper thread tension until you can balance a stitch. Most common reason for bunching thread on the bottom is loose upper tension.
545 H3 is a large bobbin standard lift sewing machine. C = medium to heavy duty, M = safety clutch, N = 6mm stitch length. Usually they say CLPMN. L = for leather. P = 4 motion drop feed. I'm not sure what the S stands for on your machine. Good luck.
@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker "stoff", fabric as opposed to "L" being leder/leather (some Pfaff manuals use much more detail but that is simplified version) not 100% certain but suspect some of the difference between the fabric/leather designations would be the style of teeth that would have been available from factory (sharpness, number, shape)
C means class C machine for medium to heavy work L means appropriate for leather P means 4 motion drop feed M means it has a safety clutch N denotes a max stitch length of 6mm H3 is standard lift H4 is a high lift machine Best
@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker Thank you for your quick response. Can you explain what the 4 motion drop feed is (P)? What is the difference with a 145 without the code P?
@@claudechamberland6852 Standard 145 machines will have 4 motion drop feed. Only specialty factory machines lack it. I would recommend sticking with 4 motion drop feed for the full benefits of a unison feed machine. Otherwise the material doesn't advance the same way. The internal mechanism of the feed dog is different. Best
No, it only has 4 motion drop feed if says P on the placque. Most say CLPMN, but sometimes in a different order. If it doesn't say P you might be getting a 3 motion drop feed or a simple up and down motion for specialty binding operations. Basically a high risk purchase if it doesn't say P on the plaque. Best of luck with it.
You really want to make sure the timing is off before you make adjustments. Correct timing has the eye of the needle even with the rotary hook when the needle bar is about 3/32" past bottom dead center (turning the handwheel towards you). If it is a timing issue, you can loosen a couple screws to adjust. Or it could be the needle bar is at the wrong height. Remember that H3 models use a different needle than H4 models. Best to you.
Excellent instruction video. I have a Singer industrial 111W115 and its similar to this machine it still has the clutch motor everything is original. My only problem is finding G ready wound bobbins with the paper sides like the one you showed. If you have a source for those ready wound bobbins I would appreciate you sharing where you find them. Thank you 👍
You might try eBay, or the Thread Exchange. Truth me told, I usually wind my own bobbins because I'm always using a new color of very dark brown, green, or deep red that doesn't come prewound. Those are the reasons I like to buy spools and wind bobbins myself. For those using a lot of white, black and beaver the prewound bobbins work great. Best
@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker I think it is kind of you. I am not sure what I would do without you. And when I get back to woodworking, I will be even more of a nuisance. Enjoy your day.
Acquired a 545 today and didn't know a single thing about it and your video is absolutely fantastic.
Thank you for taking time out of your day to teach us.
Respect.
Thanks, you're going to love your 545!
Great tutorial! Thanks for the information as I'm looking to buy one for boat work. This video sold me on getting one.
Thanks! I hope you find the perfect machine for your needs.
PFAFF 145 was my Teacher For my teenage yrs I'm now 39yrs Young and own multiple Pfaff 145 , 545 , 1245, good to see other people still using PFAFF
I have a545-H3 that I got for free for fixing someone's computer that was moving . They had a couple other machines and didn't want to move it. I've since completely restored it right down to the hammer finish paint. I used to use if for sewing patches onto jackets and vests but I've since started doing leather work. I'm tuning the machine for that now. This is one of the best overall views I've seen for these machines.
That's cool, sounds like you appreciate old German cast iron like I do. Have fun with your Pfaff and thanks for the kind words.
I have proudly watched 2 billion youtube videos and I have to say this is the most informative well done one of them all. Thank you x 3.
That's high praise! Thanks so much.
Best
I have watched 3 billion youtube videos, AND I fully agree with you. 😄
TheThoughfulWoodworker is an awesome dood for making this video
Very informative video. I ran across a Pfaff 145 and because of your information, I am in the process of buying it. Great to see people still supporting these older machines.
I think you'll like the machine. They really hold up well. Best to you.
LOVE all this valuable information, Thank You so much, I have the Pfaff 145 H4, Gave her a good oiling and cleaning and she is running smooth as butter! Thanks again for sharing your knowledge!
Glad it was helpful! Best to you.
I just bought one of these, never used from the mid 70's. This video just solved all mysterious... Completely different from my 255rb
That's great Leroy! Enjoy that pristine machine. Best to you.
Thank you. I am newly retired now and can play with the 545 I bought new in 80's. You helped me a bunch......
Cool! I'm glad to hear something in the video was helpful. Appreciate the kind words.
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Very well made video. You clearly know what you are talking about and explain very well. One suggestion; realize your audience is not USA only when you discuss availability of machines and parts. You for example talk about Consew vs. Pfaff and how common they are... On the Netherlands 'craigslist' I just will found 2 consews against 280 Pfaffs...
Yeah it's true. Sometimes I have to order Pfaff replacement parts from Europe, the last time it was Poland. Thanks
Praice kya hai@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker
Oardar karace hai
Thank you for the excellent explanation of the Pfaff 545 H4, etc. I have that H4 variant and had been threading the upper thread improperly. Also, I had missed the hidden oil points. Thank you!
Nice! Glad something in the video helped.
Best
I have been struggling with my Pfaff 145 H3 since I bought it. Thank you SO much for going thru all of these steps and explaining the machine, I really appreciate your help.
That's great Lisa! Glad something in the Pfaff video helped. Best to you!
Thank you very much for making this video!
Absolutely! Just love sharing all the stuff I wish someone told me when I first started sewing. Thanks!
Thank you. I appreciate all this information, especially the model explanation.
I am very happy with this great tutorial. Thank you very much !
Hey thanks Linda! Appreciate you letting me know. Have a great day!
Hi there, excellent video. I need some instruction on skipped stitches for my pfaff 145 h3.
Thanks! Start with the simple things like the correct needle system 134-35 for the H3 variant of the 145. Versus 190 system needles for H4 machines. Also be sure that your thread size is a good match for your needle size. I typically use 92 weight thread with a #19 or #20 size needle. Jumping up to 138 thread usually causes problems, unless you dial the whole machine to suit thicker thread. If that doesn't help, it may need a full time and tune. Best to you
Thank you for this tutorial. There is a Pfaff 145 in an auction right now when nobody has bid on it. There is less than 24 hours left in the auction and I was wondering what this machine is capable of and whether I should put a bid on it. After this I think I I will put a bid on it. Even if the sewing machine is junk the table are in great shape and can be used with my Willcox and Gibbs High Speed lockstitch.
Hi Dale, a Pfaff 145 CLMNP H3 or H4 is a typical upholstery weight industrial walking foot sewing machine. There are many variants, but the most common says CLPMN on the plaque. That one is capable of sewing up to 3/8" of compressed leather or material.
@TheThoughtfulWoodworker On the post of the sewing machine there is exactly the same number that you had in the video. I will be a bidding on it because sometimes people do not bid on them, and they go to scrap. I assumed it was an upholstery machine or leather machine, but wanted to watch your video to make sure. Thank you
Thx Willie , great demonstration. I’m learning and you’re tutorials are very helpful .
This is a very informative video of a 145 pfaff. I purchased one that i believe was used for parts and repaired, it is missing many things as the knee lift lever hinge to spring, gear covers and top plates, any idea where these hard to find these parts? I own a 145 H4 almost new so i have something to compare
I've bought used Pfaff parts from Nick-O-Sew and eBay. Good luck finding what you need for your machine.
Excellent video with great camera work. I have a Pfaff 545-h4 that I have to relearn every time I use it because I use it seldom. I subscribed to your channel. I still don't know how a subscription works.
Glad something in the video was helpful! Best to you.
I want this!
Yes the old German and Japanese built walking foot machines are a thing of beauty. Best to you.
Very well put together instructional video, i have no problems with my 145 h-4 other than i wish i could space my stitch a little more for top stitching, so my question is is there anyway to do so.The factory stitch width is just not spaced enough. TYIA 27:53 27:53
Thanks. There are ways to modify max stitch length, but I don't recommend it because your reverse stitch length won't match. Leatherworker.net may have an old blog post on the topic. Best to you.
brilliant run through and info. i have an eye on one of these, this pretty much convinced me.
Cool. Good luck with the new machine!
I've had my Pfaff 145 H4 for over 20 years. Other than reading the manual, I have had no guidance on the machine! Your video is the absolute Best information! I do have some questions tho. Regarding the wing nut on the back you refer to "steppage" and using the wing nut to raise or lower it for the steppage..What does that mean? And, on the bottom of the machine you mention the grease covers on both sides. Do you somehow take them off and where do you apply the grease? Also you mentioned the safety clutch. Should that have grease or oil applied also? The explanation of the needle system was very clear too. I have learned so much about my machine today! Thank you!!!
Hi Ann, that's great to hear. Thanks for the positive feedback. The wing nut controls how high the feet step relative to one another. That's all I mean by steppage.
As far as the grease covers underneath, you can remove the metal covers and replace the grease inside. Just smear some on the gears and re-install the covers.
Everywhere else I just use sewing machine oil as recommended in the manual.
Best
@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker Thank you so much, again! I'm going out to my shop and grease and oil my machine! :)
Very nice video. I was wondering which would you choose if the price was very similar.
The Pfaff 145, Consew 226r or Juki 562. Locally, all three are very similar in price. Your sage advice will help me choose a machine that will be used with care.
My regular upholstery machine is a Juki LU-563. That's the same as a Juki 562 except has a super large U style bobbin. So between the three I'd take the 562 first, and the Consew 226 second. Condition plays a big factor too. Good luck with your decision!
What a great video! I have a small problem on my newly purchased old pfaff, it seems to be stuck in reverse and we can see that someone has tried to adjust it because some of the screws are damaged. The motor sounds good, the machine looks good, we got is to the point that the feet are working as they should but still in reverse. Any help will be apreciated thank you.
Well the simplest explanation is that the motor direction got reversed. This only applies to servo motors though. If that's what you have, just find the switch on the motor that reverses the direction. It won't sew in the reverse direction at all
Otherwise I suppose it could be the reverse lever mechanically stuck in the up position.
I loved this video. I am 75 and have a Pfaff 145 - H4 6/1C. I purchased it several years ago for my wife, but she hasn't used it. It was used by a lady who did shoe and clothing repairs and then it was purchased by a man who made leather products and repairs for horse shows. That is who I purchased it from. I cleaned the case and the table and had it serviced by an industrial sewing machine company in Beloit Wisconsin. NOW I intend to do some leather reupholstery even though I have never sewn anything in my life. So, I just want to tell you this video is magnificent. If I could download it, I would just to have it for reference when needed.
I am going to have a lot of questions, I think, as I grow more familiar with the machine, with sewing leather, and with upholstery in general. Right now, I have two dying questions. Is there a guide I can attach to the machine so I can set the needle at a constant distance from the edge of my piece? I think I may make very wavy or crooked seams. My second question has to do with how s-l-l-o-o-o-w-w-w you were able to sew. I do not have a servo - just a regular electric motor and I need to be able to sew slowly until I can become more familiar with the machine and the process. I very much appreciate any instructions or advice you can give me.
Best regards,
DG Crum
DeKalb, IL
Hi Darryl, thanks for the nice comments. For sewing straight lines you can use an edge guide. I recommend a simple magnetic guide that you can get from Sailrite or any sewing website. To slow the machine down, you'll need to install a servo motor. Use a small motor pulley for even more control. Here's the video on installing a servo ... ruclips.net/video/Dx_rS9Fzvfo/видео.html
Best
@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker You are the best. If I ever become a world-renowned reupholstery artist, I owe it all to you. Thank you again for the information. Uh, if my wife happens to read this, Thoughtful, I owe it all to her. Just covering my bases, okay.
@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker One more question, Thoughtful. Where can I purchase a servo motor kit and what model did you install on your Pfaff 145 H4? Thank you for all of the help.
@@darrylcrum2495 This is the servo I use... amzn.to/3wWFXZa It will make your Pfaff a whole new machine!
I have a 1245 and love it this tutorial ❤❤ I have a question that I can't find anything on it. The reverse and stitch length lever fell out of the machine how do I put it back in as if I just push it in there I'm not able to adjust the stitch length. Do I need to take the plate off and adjust it inside? Do you have a place where you can answer certain questions? Thank you lynn
Thanks for the info, you have helped me imensly. i have a 145 H3.
Excellent! Enjoy your Pfaff.
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Good day. I have a Pfaff 145-H3 . Do you have timing problem?
My Pfaff needle foot is stuck on the pressser foot when it us lowered and the presser foot is up, it never used to be like that😞
Very informative! Excellent video!
Thank you so much for taking the time to comment. Positive feedback like this is what keeps me making more content.
Much appreciated.
Thanks again!
Can you please do more videos on this machine?
Unfortunately I no longer have the Pfaff. They're great machines though.
Also is the "instruction manual " what I would use for fixing and maintaining the machine. Thanks for any help you might provide. Happy labor day
Hi Neal, the user manual is good for maintenance like oiling points and basic setup, but for repair you'd need a service manual.
Thanks
@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker Thanks for your getting back to me. The inside of this machine is pretty hairy with dust animals everywhere. Cleaning and a parts needed list will be a starting place. I will continue to look for the "service manual" Any thoughts on where to find one. All the best neal sw fla
@@nealhere A service manual may be available from an industrial sewing machine dealer, or you might get lucky on eBay.
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@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker Thank you I'll do some checking. Have a good holiday. You are doing good work out there.
Very informative, thank you.
I was about to throw mine out. Thanks!!!
Yeah, they can be frustrating when they don't sew right, but often it's a very minor adjustment to get them humming along.
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This was very helpful and informative. I would like to see how to replace the needle.
Thanks! Check some of my other threading videos (consew 226, consew 206rb, and general Juki 563 videos) I think there's a tutorial on installing a needle. Basically the groove faces left, and the scarf faces right. Be sure to use the right needle system for your machine. 134-35 for Pfaff 145 H3, and 190 needle system for H4 model
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Willie, I got mine working!!! I’m so proud of myself. Can you post links for where I can order needles, bobbins etc I sew leather mainly.
Nice going! You can find bobbins for a 145 here amzn.to/3L055n6
Pfaff 145 H3 needles here amzn.to/3EguczE
Pfaff 145 H4 needle 190LR for leather here www.ebay.com/itm/303480740497?hash=item46a8dc9a91:g:rFUAAOSwhY1eQM6z
good luck!
Very helpfull informations , much apreciated.
Thanks for the nice comment! Appreciate it.
Thank you for all the great information I have a Fnaf 545 and for some reason my top thread on the needle side continues to get cut by something. Do you have any recommendations?
I've had that happen too. Usually it's when you forget to go through the needle bar thread guide. Or there's a rough metal edge on one of the guides.
Thank you so much for the reply. I ended up having the needle spun in the opposite direction, and the sharp piece on the bobbin was impacting the needle on rotation.
Excellent tutorial! Thanks 👍
Thank you for a very informative and nicely edited video. The bobbin winder on my Pfaff 145 has a broken spindle (the part where the bobbin attaches). I found a replacement spindle, but I can't seem to figure out how to remove the existing spindle from the wheel. Does anyone know how to remove the spindle? I see no retaining screw. Is it pressed on? Thanks.
Thanks Daniel! It's often easiest to replace the whole bobbin winder. They're nearly universal and inexpensive. Good luck with it!
Great instructions, thank you!
My pleasure. Thanks for checking out the video.
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Hi there! Hope you can answer this question and that it makes sense! When timing my Pfaff 545…instructions say to lower the needle to the lowest position…what if the needle bar is set too low /lower than it should be? Say you had to replace your needle bar and you didn’t reference where the bar came out of…how would you know where about to put the new needle bar? This is plaguing my mind! Also I talked to you about my tread coming out of the needle guide all the time…, so I turned the needle bar a bit and adjust my needle…thread still is coming out and can tend to shred if I leave it out…could I rig up a little loop to keep the thread in place?
The hook is your only reference. Needle bar needs to be set so the hook passes 1/16" above the eye of the needle. Consew uses a loop for the needle bar thread guide, but it needs a screw to retain it. As you know, Pfaff needle bars are different with that slot to hold thread. Sounds like you'll need to replace the needle bar.
Thanks
@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker thank you so much for your speedy reply!…
Is there a manual for this machine? I just got the machine and would love to have some kind of manual for it.
Yes, there are free manuals available online. However, they contain limited information.
How do I date the Pfaff 145 H4?
I've never been able to crack the date code on old Pfaff machines. Sorry I couldn't be more help. @@tracygoodman6525
I found the manual. In fact I have one that is for a few of them (that type). My 145 is almost up and running. Got to mount the motor and I am off and sewing.
Thanks for all your videos on the Pfaff 145. I was wondering if I could get your opinion. I was excited to find a 145 for $400 a couple months ago. I took it into a shop to have it oiled and timed which cost $200. It sewed beautiful for about an hour then it started tangling the needle thread in the bobbin area. I took it back in for service and was informed it need a new hook and plate. This will cost another $200. So total I will have about $800 in a machine who's paint is very worn from use. Would u think spending the $200 on new hook and plate mechanism is worth it? Or cut my losses and get something else? Thanks
Thanks for the kind words. I would have it fixed, if you're not comfortable replacing the hook. If you love it, you'll have a keeper. If not you can sell it at break even cost.
@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker thank you. I appreciate the quick response. I've learned everything from your channel about the 145. Thank you very much for your input. I will move forward with the repair
Thank you so much for this video! I was told incorrectly how to thread the machine! Question - my hand wheel is very tight (squeaks when I sew) and when I pull the material (leather and material) away from the machine, after sewing, it's very tight. I have to release the thread tension of the top thread to give me slack to pull away from the needle to cut the thread. My machine jams quite a bit. There aren't many people in my area who have experience with this machine so I am wondering if you think the tight hand wheel is causing my machine to squeak and then jam. I have loosed up the tension to where it's almost at the edge of the tension knob but then my bottom stitch is loose. I did install a servo motor and speed reducer (looks like the one you have). By any chance could the servo motor or belt cause issues with the hand wheel? I am using 138 thread with the correct needle size but wondering if it is too thick. Although I thought that this machine could handle 138. Thank you!
Hi Kim,
I would start with 92 weight thread and a #20 needle. Make sure to use 134-35 needles if it's an H3 model or 190 system needles for an H4 model. You will always need to raise the pressor foot (or operate the knee lift) to release the threads. The release will be much easier with 92 weight thread. I don't enjoy sewing with 138 thread, because it pretty well maxes out the machine.
The squeak can be caused by a new belt or if the motor pulley doesn't align with the handwheel pulley. Sight down through the slot in the table to check pulley alignment.
Best of luck!
Thank you! I will try 92! Oddly enough, I added oil near the handwheel where you mention in the video and that helped quite a bit. Still some squeak when I manually use the handwheel but at least its gone while I am sewing. I will check the belts. Thank for the reply!!
Oh and thank you so much for explaining the needle difference between H3 and H4. I do have H3 and have lots of 190 needles and just by chance also ordered 135 so fortunately I am using the correct needle size so if you need a bunch of 190s, I have some to give away!
@@kpollock313 I could use them for my 545 machine! if no one else can, Thanks for offering!
Great video! Thanks! I'm considering purchasing a phaff 145 6b walking foot.
The owner said it needs the timing adjusted and a servicing. Is the timing hard to adjust if it isn't a needle problem? Thank you kindly!
Thanks! The timing isn't hard to adjust, but I would proceed with caution if you can't try it before you buy it. Make sure the plaque says CLPMN. I'm not familiar with the 6b sub model variant. Usually they're listed as 145h3 standard lift of 145H4 high lift. I'm worried it might be a specialized factory machine without four motion drop feed. Not sure though. Good luck researching it, I couldn't find much info on a 1456b.
Very usefull video, thank you! Also if you can help me i have question for you about my pfaff machine and situation. I have pfaff 145VB6B GM (i think "B" is little worned, its old machine :). It is super fast machine so i want to install new servo motor so i can speed it down. But do you think also i can use thicker treads on this machine. Thicker than "40", mb 20 or even 10. Is it possible to use that treads if i change needle on it. Would be very helpfull, thanks!
Thanks Dean. The designation on that Pfaff 145 is a little different than I'm used to. Pfaff made so many special factory machines for special purposes, it's hard to know until you see it in person. Usually "B" means for medium weight materials, and "G" confusingly means large bobbin (because on a Consew a G bobbin is a standard size). I can't find reference to the specific machine you mentioned, so it must not be as common as a 145 CLMPN that I usually see. C= Medium to heavy weight, L= for sewing leather, M= has a safety clutch device, P= has 4-motion drop feed, N= denotes maximum stitch length, 6mm if I recall correctly. If it is indeed a medium weight machine, it will sew up to 92 weight thread like most industrial sewing machines. Good luck!
I recently bought a pfaff 545h4 and the guy told me it ran with 135x17 needles. It’s sews okay but sounds pretty clunky. Should I just reset needle bar at to take 190 needles again?
I certainly would. That's what it was designed to sew with. I like 190 needles better anyway, because they are a little longer, with less chance of the needle bar hitting the presser foot. Just stay on the high side of needle sizes. For instance, if 92 weight thread can use a size 18,19 or 20 needle, choose the #20. Less needle breaks that way.
Best
@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker I appreciate the quick reply, thank you for the awesome videos as well.
Great content!
I have pfaff 545, when I lift the presser foot, it won’t release tension and tension adjustment is almost all the way out, any ideas would be helpful
Thanks
Sounds like you'll need to replace the tension assembly. Usually that fixes the problem. Luckily they're inexpensive and easy to swap out. Good luck!
Awesome machine. Is there a way you could do a video teaching us how to time this machine please?
I don't have this machine anymore. Timing is pretty easy on the Pfaff once you see it done. Hopefully there's already a video on it. Sorry I can't be more help.
@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker no worries. I just got started and got the 145 here. When doing the rotation with the hand wheels, there is one spot.where it requires a lot of force to complete the rotation? Is this normal or should all rotations be smooth ?
@@Luckystudio13 if you take the belt off the machine, so it's not connected to the motor, it should be smooth rotating the hand wheel. Make sure you hit all the lube spots on the head. Once the belt is back in place, there is normally friction from the motor brake. Partially depress the foot pedal to release the brake.
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@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker copy that. The hand wheel is smooth but there is one spot during the rotation that seems like the bobbins area under the needle is binding onto something tight. (So tight like 2 metals are stuck onto each other). Just one section and then it is smooth again. This is without the motor belt and needle on.
@@Luckystudio13 lift the presser foot and run it at speed for a while. Make sure all lube points are oiled first. I had a Pfaff that wouldn't budge, and it worked loose with oil and running it a bit.
Good luck with your machine.
Thanks for your video. I just got a 145 to bring back to life. What kind of servo motor did you install. I am looking forward to the adventure of restoring this machine. All the best neal sw fla
Hi Neal, here is the type of servo I use... ruclips.net/video/Dx_rS9Fzvfo/видео.html often sold as a Family, New Tech, or Rex brand. Good luck!
Hi there, I’ve just acquired a Pfaff 545 H3 6/01 and I’m looking to find a service manual for it… do you know where I can find it? I have found the instruction manual and parts manual… or is there another machine that would have the same specs… im thinking of timing instructions if needed… great video by the way…sincerely Heather
I don't know where to find a service manual anymore. There may be videos showing how to time a Pfaff 145 / 545. It's pretty easy once you know what screws to loosen. I'd suggest looking for a general industrial sewing machine repair pamphlet or book. It will cover all the main types of machines, and you'll be able to figure it out. Again, the challenge is finding one. Best of luck with your machine! They're great once you get them tuned.
I found instructions for servicing your Pfaff here... dixiesewing.com/PFAFF%20SERVICE%20BOOK.htm
Follow the link to your model. It starts as a basic instruction manual, but keep reading and you'll see written instructions for various adjustments.
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@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker thanks so much! I found that one too
Great Video! I learned a lot from your video. Thank you so much. I’m thinking of upgrading my motor to a servo motor with a needle positioner. I want to slow it down to do leather work. Do you by chance know the servo motor brand and model number? And do you like that servo motor?
Thanks Greg. I use the Techsew 550w analog servo with a simple dial to adjust the max speed. If you plan to use a needle positioner, you'll need to get a digital servo. Make sure the motor you get is compatible with a needle positioner, because the Techsew and similar servos can't accept one. I use a speed reducer on both my machines, so a needle positioner isn't needed.
Good luck!
@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker thank you very much for your time. I really appreciate it!
Hello, aiming to lover the stitches ratio do you know if it is feasible to operate the machine with pedal and belt? Thanks!
I would recommend a servo motor if you want to sew more slowly. Good luck!
I'm restoring one of these machines currently and trying to date it, do you know what years these were made?
1940s on, into the 80s and 90s I think for some models. You might poke around over at leatherworkers.net Someone had a date code list going. Best of luck with your search.
Another question - and I am sorry for asking because I feel like I am taking advantage of your good nature, but - I cannot seem to find a 190 (LR) Size 20 needle unless it is in a box of 100. Until I know what the heck I am doing, I would prefer to buy several packets of 10. Please tell me what I am doing wrong that I can find the 190/20 but only in R? I've ordered the motor, pulley and belt, and magnetic guide. I am so excited.
Also, do you still have a woodworking youtube channel? I want to show you something I am doing. It is not something really cool but it is something. I bought an old carpenter's toolbox and I am converting it into a small desk. His union card was in the toolbox and it was dated 1922 so I think the toolbox is over 100 years old. I tried to give it to one of his family members and I searched for a good while on the internet. I only found one person and that person would not respond so I decided to honor the man by making a desk out of the toolbox. Enjoy your week and again thank you for your help.
That's awesome you popped for the motor! You'll love a servo. I usually buy most of my needles off eBay. Click on each listing, and see if they have options for 10 needles at a time.
I just have one RUclips channel for now, with both woodworking and heavy sewing content. Your tool box / desk project sounds like a great one. Best of luck!
Okay, here I am again. I have a 3D printer and so I ordered some bar magnets and made my own magnetic guide. The problem is the guide swivels on one end so it really does not work for me. In fact, it is just like one I ordered some time ago. So, I keep looking for sources to make a good guide for my 145. The other day, it struck me that I could make a tee track on my table that would allow me to set a guide, but then I realized a guide is about the only thing I would use the track for so I gave up that idea. Now, I am thinking of another approach and then it struck me that I should ask the guru of leather upholstery and wood working. So, what do you do to make the guide on your Pfaff stay in place and straight?
Hi Daryl, you can use cheap magnetic guides from online sources. They seem to work fine. If I'm using the small magnetic guides I use two. Long guides like they sell at Sailrite just one is needed. Otherwise you can attach a screw-on edge guide. Most machines are tapped for guide holes, but if not you can tap holes in the bobbin slide plate. Magnetic guides are easier to take on and off though.
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@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker
Thank you. Enjoy your week. My problem is I am so new at all of this and I try to watch everything because I am prone to screwing up. As a result, I need these guides like a 6-year-old child needs those inflatable things they put in the gutters for bumper pool. Seriously, I am so prone to making mistakes that I tend to be over-cautious about any part of it. Again, thank you and enjoy your week.
Looks similar to my Necchi 902-155!
Yeah, Necchi uses a different head casting, but the feed type, capability and even the color is very similar.
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can you tell me what is the heaviest thread you have used and what needle? I just bough tone of these machines but am a complete novice. I've started leather work mainly making knife sheaths. Thanks :-)
Hi Gorgon, I usually use 92 weight thread with a #20 needle. The functional max for the machine is #138 thread with a #22 needle (or step up to a #23 for leather). Best of luck with it!
@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker Thanks!
Thanks!
Thank you so much!
I just asked a long, involved question but it seems to have disappeared when I added the funding. I bought the presser feet on eBay and it turns out the teeth on the bottom of the foot are smooth to the point that I cannot imagine they are good at gripping the leather. I have an original Pfaff presser foot and the teeth are sharp and grip nicely. Does this sharpness or smoothness matter and if it does, is there a way of sharpening the teeth with a file or something? Thank you.
I usually use smooth bottom presser feet, but teeth or ok as well. Teeth can scratch leather when you topstitch. Pfaff's usually have such strong foot pressure springs, I doubt it will be an issue for you. Good luck, and thanks again!
Hi hello, thank you for this gr8 video... ive got a question, apart from the lever where we setup the stitch lenght is there any way to sort the stitch size? how can i send u a video to show up why i say this? thank you
Hi Marcos, you are correct the stitch length is adjusted by turning the knob on the reverse lever. Sometimes a machine will be missing a little square metal piece between the knob and slotted plate in the machine. Or sometimes the piece will be upside down.
When that happens, your reverse stitching won't match the forward stitch length.
Other than that little part being missing or installed upside down, the Pfaff stitch length mechanism isn't easily adjusted.
Thanks
@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker Thank you, ive just checked and stitch lengh on pfaff can´t get more than 3mm check video with my seiko VS pfaff..... ruclips.net/video/gwJR-ezA0hQ/видео.html
@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker thats what i mean.... to short stitches :(.... Thank you
I am sorry to bother you again but when I purchased my 145 (used), it came with several different feet. When I was watching your video on sewing in zippers, I realized I needed to find the feet to see if I had a zipper foot. I cannot find them anywhere and my fear is that I might have thrown them out by accident. I need to get a zipper foot for my 145 and I have no idea what brand I should buy. Can you please give me some advice on the brand and where I might buy one? Thank you.
I buy Pfaff 145 feet on eBay. They are various brands, and none genuine Pfaff, but they work well. I like to have a left zipper foot, right zipper foot, and 1/4" cording foot for all my machines. Good luck with it!
@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker I have another question. My machine came with a single-toe (left) foot on it. All of this talk about different types of feet based on application makes me wonder just how much I do not know on this particular subject so I am looking for a pictural that shows the different feet for the different sewing requirements. Do you know of such a thing? Thank you for all of your help.
@@darrylcrum2495 Not a lot of great resources on that topic. eBay will show pictures. A left zipper foot, right zipper foot, and 1/4" piping foot will do most everything. I probably have close to 50 feet sets, but only use those three.
@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker Uh, LOL! Half a centipede. Until my three new feet come in, I am a pogo stick. I still need to buy the 1/4 pipping. By the way, I just bought a plier stapler. I like that idea a lot! And with regard to my one-toe footer, I think that might be what is pulling my leather to the left enough to be a bother. I could be wrong, thought. Enjoy your week. I am going to leave you alone for a few days.
I noticed that your foot attachment on your H4 looks to me to be a welting or piping foot. Is that a foot that you personally use for regular stitching as you have demonstrated? Or did it just happen to be the foot attachment that you had on the machine at the time?
I like to have a 1/4" welting foot, left zipper foot, and right zipper foot for each sewing machine. I would say I use the welting foot for 90% of my sewing. Hope that helps!
Yes thanks, that does help. I have the same attachment but I've only used it for making piping previously. The only other foot I have, has a very short "footprint" so to say. Which makes it difficult when getting started on a stitch at the beginning. I keep catching the material, and it bunches up. Plus not having a servo doesn't help either. I like the long footprint on that welting foot, so I think I'll start using it in the future for regular stitching. Thanks again. I really need to get a servo motor.@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker
I agree on the servo! Here's a quick installation guide if you get one... ruclips.net/video/Dx_rS9Fzvfo/видео.html @@vintagesirvivor
Thanks for that link. Looks like a pretty straight forward process. Your co-worker seems to be lacking a wee bit of enthusiasm though. :) @@TheThoughtfulWoodworker
What is the cause of my walking foot following the feed dog into its slot on the return stroke? I've tried all manner of adjustments but I can't get it to stop doing it.....
Try backing the spring pressure off for the presser foot. It's either a double knurled nut on top of the leaf spring (if so equipped) or a knob on the top left of the head if it's a newer model.
Also, make sure the wing nut adjustment isn't loose on the back of the machine. That wing nut needs to be snug for the walking foot to work. Hope you get it sorted!
Hey there! I was wondering what size timing belt you are using for your 145?
The external drive belt is a 38" length.
Best
My Pfaff machine is having problems. The bobbin case jiggles a little causing a small gap between the pieces. The top thread gets stuck in it causing it all to bunch up and knot. How do I fix this?
I would start by confirming you have the right bobbin size. G style for 145 or M style for 545. Needle system is a source of confusion on Pfaffs too. 134-35 needle system for H3 models, and 190 needle system for H4 models.
What attachment is that and where can I buy one?
Hi, not sure what attachment you're referring to. If you mean the presser feet, it's just a 1/4" piping foot set off eBay. Thanks
Could u do a video on installing the Original Pfaff 145 545 #91-010 730-15 lever + screw and spring
I'd love to help you out, but unfortunately I don't have a Pfaff right now. Thanks and good luck!
Will this machine handle a 207 or 277 thread?
No, not really. Functional max is 138 with a #22 needle for cloth or #23 needle for leather. I almost always use 92 weight.
I have the exact machine you are using. I have everything threaded correctly but it won’t pick up the bobbin thread. The needle thread literally gets stuck and I have to cut it out. Any suggestions?
Try setting it up with 92 weight thread and a #20 size needle. Be sure to use a 134-35 needle type for an H4 or a 190 needle system from an H4. If you use a short needs in an H4 it won't sew right.
Best
Why is the needle foot stuck on the presser foot when its raised😮?
The presser foot might be slightly crooked. Or the bar that you attach the foot to might need lube in the sewing machine head.
Hi, what CLMN 10, what the 1o stands for? Thanks
C= medium class machine, L= for leather, P= 4 motion drop feed, M= machine has safety clutch, N= 6mm max stitch length. H3= standard lift, H4= high lift. The number such as 6-01 describe what specific sub-model it is. As long as it says "CLPMN", I've always been happy with them. If this one has only 3 motion drop feed, it might still work fine for your needs.
Best of luck!
Sergut
Can u tell me about pfaff 9013
Sorry, I can't find much information about a Pfaff 9013. Key factors to look for are 1. Is is a walking foot? 2. Is it a needle feed machine? 3. How heavy of thread can it sew? 4. What material thickness can it sew? Sorry I can't offer specific details on this model.
Best of luck.
I have a Pfaff 145, I had it set up recently by a machine repair person, when I got it back my knee lift/presser foot lift does not function while the needle is in the vinyl/fabric. When the needle is up The knee lift works. How would i fix this?
Hi Michael, so the knee lift roller might be stuck on the wrong side of the machine lever. Just a guess. Otherwise you'll have to make small adjustments to the knee lift itself. Make sure it's raising high enough to engage the lever under the head.
Pfaffs should have a roller wheel on the knee lift. Many are missing that part, or have been scabbed together with incorrect parts.
Best
if my machine is occasionally doing long stitches what could be the issue?
Warn needle bar bushings. It happens with older machines as they wear out. Or it could simply be a skipped stitch. If it's just a skipped stitch, check thread path, quality of winding on bobbin, upper tension check spring, hook timing and hook spacing.
@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker thanks very much
My machine keeps bunching up at the bottom. Broke a couple needles from it. No idea why it's doing this.
I would put any projects aside, and set the machine up with 92 weight thread and the correct needle. Pfaff H3 standard lift machines need a 134-35 needle system, while H4 models use a 190 needle system. Use a size 20 needle for 92 weight thread. Then increase upper thread tension until you can balance a stitch. Most common reason for bunching thread on the bottom is loose upper tension.
Buenos dias me pidria decir que significan las siglas CSMN EN EL MODELO 545-H3-6/01 gracias
545 H3 is a large bobbin standard lift sewing machine. C = medium to heavy duty, M = safety clutch, N = 6mm stitch length. Usually they say CLPMN. L = for leather. P = 4 motion drop feed. I'm not sure what the S stands for on your machine. Good luck.
Muchisimas gracias dios se lo pague
@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker "stoff", fabric as opposed to "L" being leder/leather (some Pfaff manuals use much more detail but that is simplified version) not 100% certain but suspect some of the difference between the fabric/leather designations would be the style of teeth that would have been available from factory (sharpness, number, shape)
Where can we find a chart for the signification on the letters C, L, M, N, P, H4, H2, etc?
C means class C machine for medium to heavy work
L means appropriate for leather
P means 4 motion drop feed
M means it has a safety clutch
N denotes a max stitch length of 6mm
H3 is standard lift
H4 is a high lift machine
Best
@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker Thank you for your quick response. Can you explain what the 4 motion drop feed is (P)? What is the difference with a 145 without the code P?
@@claudechamberland6852 Standard 145 machines will have 4 motion drop feed. Only specialty factory machines lack it. I would recommend sticking with 4 motion drop feed for the full benefits of a unison feed machine. Otherwise the material doesn't advance the same way. The internal mechanism of the feed dog is different.
Best
@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker Does that mean all 145 have 4 motion eventhough the P is not printed on the plate in front of the machine?
No, it only has 4 motion drop feed if says P on the placque. Most say CLPMN, but sometimes in a different order. If it doesn't say P you might be getting a 3 motion drop feed or a simple up and down motion for specialty binding operations. Basically a high risk purchase if it doesn't say P on the plaque.
Best of luck with it.
What’s her release date ??
I'm not sure when this one was made. 70's or 80's maybe.
How do you set timing on Pfaff 145
You really want to make sure the timing is off before you make adjustments. Correct timing has the eye of the needle even with the rotary hook when the needle bar is about 3/32" past bottom dead center (turning the handwheel towards you). If it is a timing issue, you can loosen a couple screws to adjust. Or it could be the needle bar is at the wrong height. Remember that H3 models use a different needle than H4 models. Best to you.
Thank you. I will try what you suggested.
Having another problem, why is the needle foot stuck on the presser foot when raised?
I solved the timing problem, the needle was too short
What is the foot lift on this machine?
It has a knee lift to raise the pressor foot.
Thanks for checking out the video.
Best
@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker right,what I meant was how thick of material can fit under the foot?
@@Sunsetluver1 It will fit about 1/2" under the foot, and sew about 3/8" of compressed leather.
Thanks
@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker thank you
Excellent instruction video. I have a Singer industrial 111W115 and its similar to this machine it still has the clutch motor everything is original. My only problem is finding G ready wound bobbins with the paper sides like the one you showed. If you have a source for those ready wound bobbins I would appreciate you sharing where you find them. Thank you 👍
You might try eBay, or the Thread Exchange. Truth me told, I usually wind my own bobbins because I'm always using a new color of very dark brown, green, or deep red that doesn't come prewound. Those are the reasons I like to buy spools and wind bobbins myself. For those using a lot of white, black and beaver the prewound bobbins work great.
Best
Thanks!
Hey thanks Daryl! Very kind and generous of you!!!
@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker I think it is kind of you. I am not sure what I would do without you. And when I get back to woodworking, I will be even more of a nuisance. Enjoy your day.