How to Varnish and Refinish a cabin sole - Get A Deep Rich Sole in that sailboat floor
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- Опубликовано: 10 сен 2024
- This video goes into detail on the proper way of refinishing the floor in a boat; The cabin sole. These techniques can be used on any floor or any wood surface you are refinishing. Follow these steps and you'll get a long lasting finish. Keep in mind that gloss finishes typically have better UV resistance. Please read the Comments & Watch the video till the end to Get all the tips in Day After Day Finishing.
You can get the tools here And Help us.
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Rubbed finish Epifanes varnish: amzn.to/2WmPZ4B May need more than one.
Gloss Epifanes Varnish: amzn.to/2YO5La7 May need more than one.
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Purdy soft brush for finishing: amzn.to/35Q0joO
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I put 7-8 coats of gloss total including the sealing coats and then 2 coats of a rubbed finish. so the floors would not be so slippery when wet. the back side was kept a gloss finish to better repel water and dirt from the bilge.
If you decide to strip and refinish your Cabin sole. Remember that if you decide to keep the gloss the floor Will be SLIPPERY WHEN WET.
I recommend applying some sort of grip or just going with a Satin, Matt or rubbed finish on the final two or three coats.
This cabin sole was done in A Rubbed finish which has nothing to do with rubbing. It applies just like the other finishes but does have a slight faster drying time.
when redoing your floor pay attention to the dust in the location you are varnishing. Dust can be very frustrating as most of the bubbles you see are actually trapped dust particles. So make sure your doing all you can to keep dust out.
Learn how to keep your brush fresh
Also use a mask and proper safety gear. I was not and i was spending little time then out. DO NOT BREATH THE FUMES.
PLEASE- LIKE, SUBSCRIBE, COMMENT AND SHARE
& Thank You for Viewing. It all Helps me to bring you guys some More LIFE Videos. Thank You again, It's really appreciated.
Nice. Thanks for the how to. I’m not as intimidated varnishing as I was before the video.
@Happ465 awesome! glad it helped. Good luck with it and have fun. Then enjoy the fruits of your labor lol.
Just buying a boat. Floor needs to be done. This has been extremely helpfull!
Thank you.really glad it helped. Good luck on it and take care.
I grew up in boatyards in RI with boatbuilding friends named Peterson, Thurston, Herreshoff. My dad owned a boatyard, so I was the grunt work w/my brother and the hired help. I'm also a retired US Navy/USCG ship's engineer and systems inspector. I would have to say your techniques are spot on! Well done! We'd have done it virtually identically. I will say your lack of some basic safety equipment, especially on hands and eyes is a mistake, common in the trades, but typical of experts in the field. We'd have done it almost identically on any yacht we refurbished or repaired.
Thanks for a great straightforward simple video. Doing our sailboat floorboards right now and it helped.
Cheers
You are very welcome. And thank you for the comment. I'm really glad I could help. Have a great day and take care out there.
Like it! Precisely explained without leaving anything out. Need to pay attention to the thinning ratios.
Excellent, thank you
out of all of the varnish videos on RUclips, i would say yours is one of the better ones. typically a professional job would be 7 coats from bare wood. On your 5th coat, you should start paying more attention. At 5 coats i would sand any flat surface with a firm block to reduce the "orange peel" effect you see at 6:00. simply scuffing by hand is alright to a certain point. Your results should be similar to a pane of glass
I completely agree with you. Depending on the surface I am doing I will do that. This sole specifically I did not want to be that smooth but I wanted it close. The owners believed that if it was tooooo smooth it would be slippery. And they are right in what they wanted. I personally like a super shinny smooth surface. And Thanks for the compliment.
this Video was really helpful now that i'm going to do my wifes bosse's boat, thank you and your did a great job.
Thanks for the run down. This has been something I have wanted to do but haven’t known how until your video.
Thank you for the great comments. I appreciate it.good luck with it. Take care
Excellent 'how-to'. You take the best approach to get the job done well.
Thank you I really appreciate it.
Excellent instruction for this work. I shall follow it to the letter on the floor of my boat.
Thank you good sir and may your project be amazing.
Thanks, I found that most useful. Quite a process. If I did that in my boat there would be nowhere to walk, so it was good to see that as with many boat jobs, it's often down to having the space. Anyway, great vid. and the finished soles looked amazing.
Ty 😊
Great info, thank you!
Your welcome And thank you
Watching this video has been a wonderful help and inspiration. I'm going to buy that 1930's classic after all!!
Hi, Thank you. Also if it is a wooden hull stay away unless you are experienced or just have money and time lol. especially an old one like that. they are the hardest to maintain and the easiest to rot. If you still getting it please really check every board hard and thoroughly. and if big do a haul out to do it. I love restored wooden boats but I will never own one... as beautiful as they are. anyway hope this helped ...enjoy your project.
Thanks. You just sorted out the problem with my cabin sole.
I appreciate that. Ty for watching
nicely done
Nice work on that deck. I'm glad people like you share your knowledge and experience with novices. Boats will always need work, and experienced hands make learning better for young sailors. Thank you
Thank you very much and your welcome. I really hope that these vids help people. I wish when I was learning that I had youtube to go to. I still hit youtube now for some things sometimes lol. hope you subscribed I have more vids coming on a galley and haul. then coming soon is an transmission replacement, fuel tank removal steering and a couple other things.
nice work... it is hard to find people who take pride at their work nowadays...
Thank you. And you are right. I have a very hard time finding people who take pride in what they do and back thier work. So many people are just like. "ahh it's good enough" and thier work sucks and thiere customer service sucks as well.
I can't get over how good that looks! Fabulous job.
Thank you very much. Have a great New Year!
Excellent tips. Thank you kindly.
Your very welcome
Well im getting ready to start striping the interior triming of my boatand taking all the pieces home for sanding, prepping and varnishing. I want the wood to have a deep varnish finish. Your wood work has inspired me to do it and will follow your intructions. Thank you
Sorry replied from my other channel
About to refinish the boat's floor, the video provided very simple and useful information. THANKS!!!!
Thank you! Good video
Very welcome and thank you. 😊
Thanks. That was very helpful. I'm off to do my companionway steps. With a lot more confidence!.
Beautiful job, learned alot. Thank you
Yw. And Ty
Thank you for this tutorial. We're looking forward to trying it out ourselves (and it gives my boyfriend an excuse to buy a heatgun, so he's pretty excited)!
Your very welcome. I don't know how I missed this comment but thank you. I really hope your guys project turned out great. Any excuse to get new toys is a great excuse lol. Take care
I'm sealing a piece of myrtle wood to use as an outdoor bar/countertop w/ Epifanes Wood Finish & will follow with Matte. I'm a beginner at sealing & am so happy with this video! No where else have I found what to do in between coats (the 24 hr dry time) ie: what to do with the brushes - love how you showed us how to hang the brush using the cans & a dowel - also, I'm deferring from the video that the leftover thinned product was in the plastic tub w/ a lid. Thanks! This was most helpful.
Wow! Nice video! I bought a 1987 Hunter 40, in oct. 2018. I have been wondering how to go about how to refinish the veneer flooring. After watching your video, I want to drive the 5.5 hr drive to my boat, in 14 degree weather, remove the flooring, bring it home, and make it look new!...lol. Thanks really feeling motivated.
This was one hell of a video, maybe because I've always loved woodworking but this was hard to turn away from.
Thanks a lot banjo. I tried to pm you but not sure if it worked right lol.
just email pickinthebanjo@live.com then, probably easier. But yeah that is one hell of a channel you got there, I used to work in a cabinet shop refinishing item that came in and I love boats so it's sort of a combo of the two.
I set that email up exclusively for helping people on my channel so feel free to ask things there.
Fantastic video and your explanation was very well presented. I am doing my Hunter 27 soul. Thank you for your help.
Thank you. good luck with it.
Awesome video!!
Thank you
Great Video, your efforts in making it useful for the viewers is amazing, very comprehensive too. You Rock!!!!!
thank you very much
Good video on varnishing. I would use a 45 degree brush stroke between the parallel coats to insure coverage.
Dry helpful - thank you
great work of art,only if I had a boat.
I am about to tackle a cabin sole. Thanks for the informative video.
Thanks, great video! We're confident enough to get started with our floorboards now!
Mr. Frankenmer, I learned some good techniques from watching your video and I'm very thankful to people like yourself who share their knowledge with others. I'm in the process of refinishing my boats teak holly soul that's been damaged from oily bilge runoff and snow melt that got in under the winter tarp and settled on the floor. Floors that were once beutifullly varnished are now discoloured and faded. After washing them with murphy's oil soap I think I'll now use your heat gun technique rather than a stripper in hopes of mitigating any further damage before restoring them to their former appearance. Any suggetions are welcome. Thanks
Ian Hoyte Thank you. That should work fine as long as the oils didn't get to the wood. Remember to hand sand when it is stripped and go with the grain. Good luck with it. Oh and be very careful with he heat gun not to burn your wood.
ronin51670 BTW, I forgot to ask if you've had any issues with Interlux Clear Gold Varnish. I sanded and re-varnished a section of the removable teak holly soul and I'm waiting to re-sand and put a 2nd coat of varnsih on it, however after 3 days the piece is still tackey to the touch. Therefore I'm assuming it's not cured yet nor is it ready for sanding. Any comments?
Ian Hoyte You are right. It is not curing if it is still tacky. Something is wrong. It may be weather if it is way to humid. Other than that you have a problem. I'm also assuming that for sure you are using a single part varnish. If by chance that is a two part then the mix was off most likely. schooner is the single part and perfection is two part. Also sometimes using the wrong type of thinner for the varnish can do the same thing.
nice that helps me on my kayak
WOW lot's of work but look's GREAT !
Hey there! I love the video! I had a fellow teach me how to do varnishing but he left out a few things that I see here that would make it much easier. Thank you!
glad you enjoyed it. you will want to wait overnite. then just to be sure check for tackyness (if thats a word) lol somewhere inconspicious. if you rush it it will mess up the finish. you have to be patient. and do one coat a day. UNLESS.... you are using the wood finish product that you can apply before its completely dry then i think its after 4 hours and you dont sand in between coats. but i like the other stuff better sanding in between coats allows me to get rid of the dust particles
Well, thanks a lot for such a detailed assistance.
It's been really helpful.
I'll try that as soon as possible.
Have a nice day
Lots of good info here. Thanks for taking the time to produce this.
Great work amigo 💪🏾💪🏾
Thank you!
Nicely done
thank you.
looks beautiful! Great job.
Thank you
Thank you... Will be trying Your way thus spring. Brian
Job well done 👍👍👍👍👍
I really appreciate the comment thank you.
Great video! I'm actually doing research in preparation to do our front porch.
The "professional" job we paid to have done last year needs to be re done again.
Thank your for your very clear instructions and tips.
Your welcome, good luck.
First Class Job on Instructions. I love wood working and yours if the first I saw on the Sole. Thanks so much for Sharing
thank you, and your welcome.
Very helpful and well constructed video
Many thanks and a real pleasure to watch.
I'm working on my Westerly Konsort interior and came by your video by accident. What a lucky thing I did as I now know how to tackle the problem of my floor panels. Thanks for a great video instructional.
+Andrew Dalby I am r glad I could help. Thanks a lot.
Nice work! Just bought a Christ craft cavalier and am anxious to get to revamping the wood. Will be using this as tutorial
I'm glad I could help. I really appreciate the comment. Thanx
@Reginald Luciano Awesome...good luck and just take your time. Have fun 👍
Clear and educational. thanks!
you r welcome. and thanks
Thanks for your time and effort. Great job.
thanxs
very nice. I am a gunsmith so I know what a pain it is to put on finish, sand, finish, Sand, repeat, repeat, repeat. I have custom gun stocks that I have made that have ended up having about 60 coats or more on them. Talk about beautiful! I also use the same method that you do of diluting the Varnish and progressing up to 100% varnish during the process.
good vid i have done a few cabin soles myself. i mostly do exterior bright work though.i also like badger hair brushes
thanks. i like badger brushes as well they are one of the best.
got my varnish the other day, my boats got a mix of marine ply and teak that's looking a little tired, i've got the cleaner/brightner for the teak and a sealer, looking out for tips on varnishing, have to say a great video, very informative, thanks
+FrankenMer Gaming the bulk of the work should be done next week so we'll see soon enough
Your cabin sole looks fantastic!
Nice video - Extremely informative. Thanks!
Very handy and careful person
Very nice work. I enjoyed your video very much. Thanks for posting!
kayakndave TY YW
Very informative, thank you for giving us the benefit of your experience.
Awesome! keep up the good work! I'm a proud new subscriber!!!
That was very helpful thanks for sharing.Keep up the great work
Thank you, your video just gave me confidence for my own project!
Your welcome
Very informative. Thank You
Thank you for the comment glad I could help. Thanks again have a good one and take care.
thank you. i use epifanes. it gives me a greeat finish every time.
Very helpful video...many thanks
thank you and your welcome
Hi and thanx. The wood finish works great also but i think in my opinion that varnish dries harder and last longer. but probably not by much. also i do like that you do not have to sand between coats on the wood finish. but you also can not really get the rubbed effect with it either. or i should say easily lol.
Excellent video. I really appreciate the info.
You do a very nice job with your videos, and your work is first class. Thanks for the videos. I do have to disagree on one point. Before the wood is sealed completely, it is possible to develop bubbles if the temps heat up considerably during curing as the wood/plywood can out-gas. Try to work in constant or slightly cooling temps to avoid bubbles. I found out the hard way.
Thanks for the comment. It is true you can get some bubbles. In the video I stated that rarely do you get bubbles. But you are right. It's a really good idea to varnish in the recommended temps. And to make sure your surface is dry. Also to try to avoid very humid days as that can leave an unwanted dull film look sometimes. Thanks again for posting it is great. All of these comments like this help a lot of people get their job done. And brings up points I didn't hit on in the vids.
thank you. Just dont rush it. and youll do great.
Beautiful work. Thanks for sharing.
Great informational video, and an amazing finished article to be proud of - well done.
THANK YOU
thanx, i used epifanes gloss for the first coats and then epifanes rubbed effect for the final coats.
Good Vid mate , I've just done this on my boat I used westsystem 207 special finishes then used varnish came up well !
Good info. Just what I needed to see. Nice work. Thanks
Blake Yokum thank you. I am really happy it helped.
As for the brush marks. this is tricky sometimes. weather plays a huge role in this especially with the rubbed finish because it dried so rapidly.
The best way to do it is when you are on your last coat. Thin the rubbed finish or a matt and sometimes the satin finished about 25 - 50 percent. Also working quicker on the last coat helps. thinning it will help it lay down and smooth out. As i said weather makes a big difference so do a couple test strokes on something. Have fun
thanx & your welcome
Great video! Thanks
I love the video
thank you
Thank you. I just varnished one layer on a cockpit table and its full of air bubbles. You mention that is is most likely dust.
Very good Job
thanx....it should do fine. but on an outside deck in the rain it will be very slippery, make sure the epifanes you use has the UV protectant in it. ive used it on cap rails and floors and the stuff works great. the rubbed finish will dull it down but double check the rubbed finish i think its NOT as UV as the gloss.
beautiful job
Great tutorial. Thanks for sharing :)
Thank you. And your very welcome
I have a 1997 Hunter 376 in desperate need of a cabin sole clean up. I was told when I bought the boat that because Hunter is a production boat they use very thin top vaneer and that refinishing would not be possible. I was impressed by the way you used the heat gun, scraper, and then hand sanded. Do you think that your process might work for my boat being that the vaneer is so thin?
Do the smallest section first. Preferably a section for the head or storage. Then try my procedure and if it works for that it will work for the others. Just don't get impatient. These were really thin. good luck.
nice video. very informative. thx.
Great video! Thank you.
yw and ty
thanx, i go into it in this one mostly
Thank you very much, Im glad I was able to help.
Thank you so much!! Very helpful
Excellent!! Thank you.Very very informative.
very informitive
thanks. very informative.
your welcome
Great how to Thanks!
Great video mate. Really appreciate it.
Great, I like your technique and tips. As an owner of a WEST system cold-molded sloop, I have taken to applying some of the tricks of epoxy-composite construction to projects like cabin or cockpit sole refinishing. What I do once the difficult business of stripping and sanding the surface is done is to apply two or three coats of clear setting epoxy (I like WEST 105/207 resin/hardener combination). On teak this will tend to bubble on the first coat, but a second or third coat well sanded out will give a fair smooth surface that will accept varnish without the need for a sealer coat. The epoxy yields a very hard, waterproof base for the varnish, which you can then apply as described. Of course you would do the underside and edges as well, but would not need to pay as much attention to surface prep - a second coat over a well-sanded first coat is enough in my experience. Epoxy vapours are quite toxic, so this is NOT something you would want to do in the confined interior of a boat.
In this application, you need to think of the varnish as a sacrificial coating, to be replaced when it needs redoing. The varnish also provides UV protection for the epoxy undercoat, although this is less of a concern with interior surfaces than it is on the hull or deck exterior. The upside is that there will be no need to take the surface back down to wood at that stage, since it will not have absorbed any water, and because of the hardness of the epoxy is also less likely to have sustained dents and mechanical damage from foot traffic.
Bruce Bol
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