Alternator Testing & Repair (EVERYTHING You Need To Know!)
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- Опубликовано: 28 мар 2019
- An easy to follow, step by step guide to alternator testing & repair. How to properly test, troubleshoot, repair alternator vehicle charging system rectifier diodes, stator and rotor(field) windings, brushes, bearings, and voltage regulator using a digital multimeter in this video. You'll learn exactly how a car alternator(generator) works. Enjoy!
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Excellent video, thank you!
Nice
Im only half way thru this video and already need to comment. This is the best video on the web regarding alternators. Not only are you clear and precise but you are knowledgeable and extremely thorough. I've been working on cars my whole life, professionally on and off for 25 years and I will have learned more on this topic in 20 mins from you than i have from all my experience. Thank you and very well done !
Glad you liked it Cody! I have many other video explained just as well as this one. :-) Thanks for watching!
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Better than any f-ing teacher I’ve ever had in college.
Thank you teacher.
Your comment is greatly appreciated. Please share, otherwise videos like this end up being a waste of my time. Thank you!
Wheels
Good bro 😊
Best video on RUclips that I seen on alternators! Always a thumbs up and thanks for all the time, effort, and expense in making this video! Looking forward to the next one!
Thanks Todd! That means a lot coming from a guy like you that produces such great videos!
@@electronicsNmore 😮😮❤❤
❤❤😢😢
Good bro 😊
Just found this channel and my life is almost complete thanks a bunch.
Nice bro 💯
Good bro 💯
You are a pro at many things. Still give you credit for me being able to fix my microwave a few years ago. Testing and correct parts replaced.
RUclips is amazing for finding guys like this
You did a amazing job explaining how generators and alternators work. Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed the video! Please share.
Good bro
Been watching you for years your one of the best teachers on RUclips
Thanks for the nice comment and supporting my channel! Sadly many of my videos end up being a waste of time for me because few if any viewers take 1 or 2 minutes to share my video links.
Good basic explanation.
Two points for clarity:
1. In a sinusoidal output, technically, power is always generated except at the zero crossing points- no?
2. Per the schematic show, the thing you call a transistor, is the voltage regulator, composted of ALL the circuitry (3 transistors, resistors, etc) needed to do the voltage regulating function. A "transistor" TO3 type (looks similar) has three terminals- the case itself is one terminal- the collector. The other two terminals are the Base and Emitter.
You presented the information with clarity. One of your best informational vids.
Glad you enjoyed it. If it doesn't get the views/exposure it deserves, then it was a big waste of my time. Thanks for watching!
Clear concise and not only informative but well produced, excellent video without the waffle.
Thanks Rick! Be sure to rate thumbs up, consider subscribing, and look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you. I have many other videos that are explained just like this one. Taking one minute to share a link to my channel with others on social networking sites would be greatly appreciated. Have a great day!
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valuable video to understand alternator. Well done
Good bro 😊
watched a few videos of yours today and never fail to learn something new .
Great to hear! Sharing my channel with others would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Good bro 😊
This is the best video. From the explaination..it seem like the presenter has very high knowledge and experience.. worth to subscribe and follow his channel.
Nice bro 💯
Excellent video on structure and function of alternators.
Thanks! Be sure to share my videos with many others, or videos like this will end up being a big waste of my time.
Great vedio. from an old fan.
Good bro 😊
Great explanation, thank you.
Good working bro 😊
I've understood the basics for years and have even dug into and repaired an older alternator 25 years ago, but now my beater has an overcharging problem and I thought I'd watch a lot of videos to see if it's a simple cheap fix that will keep it on the road. 28 year old vehicle in the rust belt, I believe original alternator with 231k miles.... Did I mention oil soaked for a few years since it sits at the bottom of the pile, so bad that it got rejected from a Jiffy Lube while on vacation, and people come into the restaurant to tell me my van is on fire after I park and walk in (I ask if they actually saw flames). This video is the best I've ever seen and explains things quickly, efficiently, and very clear.... But I'm still puzzled for how the system reads battery voltage and if it could be a false low thus causing an overcharge of almost 18 volts. I have the gasket to fix the leak, but am not sure if the van is worth a new alternator as it could use that money elsewhere. Many people tell me to scrap it as they are haters, but the sucker always starts and chugs along on its 5 running cylinders. 45k miles for $75 so far, plus about $65 in repairs.
Well explained video regarding alternator 👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾
Nice bro
What a Master class!!
Good to know how the alternator functions and the inner workings !!
Thanks for watching Tom! Be sure to check out my other videos and most importantly share.
Nice
Great video. The most detailed in layman's terms. I have a 2006 subaru sti with a Mitsubishi alternator that failed. Tested at shop. Bad voltage regulator on order. Took a chance they had part in stock otherwise I could have tested and repaired myself.
Glad you enjoyed the video! Be sure to share. Thank you
Hi Doug. Very well explained has always. Hope to see more soon. Liked,Shared and added to Playlists.
All my best. Bobby
Thanks bobby!
Good bro
Well done!! Great explaination. Keep up the good work. Greetings from Holland.
Great job describing the inner workings of an alternator. Although I have had many apart through the years its is a great refresher for me and Im sure for the people who have never had one apart. No doubt the best video on RUclips keep up the great work.
Thanks John! Be sure to look over my video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you, and most importantly take one minute to share a link to my channel with others on social networking sites.
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@@electronicsNmoreThanks again, I cant figure out why I haven't stumbled across you after all of these years. I have to ask are you by chance an amateur radio operator? I only ask because I am or was a Amateur radio operator N8MXA (let my ticket expire) but it was influential in my love for electronics and tinkering since I was probably 6 or 7 years old and followed me into adulthood with cnc machine tool repair. Again great channel Im sure I will be up all night watching LOL! Take care
Good bro 😊
Great video. Appreciate your effort, if you would explain the functions of the terminals of the alternator, would really be great help.
Thank you for the video. Clear and very informative.
Glad it was helpful Carl! Be sure to look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you, and most importantly take one minute to share a link to my channel with others. Thank you
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Just wondering why you didn't show removing the rotor from the housing.Other than that,a great,thorough,and accurate explanation of testing.
Hi Les. There really wasn't much to see on the other side, just another bearing. I added images of the full rotor and stator for viewers to see. I would've needed to get out my impact wrench to remove the pulley. Thanks for watching!
Bridge rectifiers are awesome , thank you for sharing.
You're welcome! Be sure to rate thumbs up and share. Thank you
Good 😊
Very nice explanation. Thanks for the video's.
You're welcome. Thanks for watching! Please be sure to share my channel with others.
Thank you, very informative
Glad it was helpful Cliff!
Good bro
Excellent video
Thanks Kenny! Remember to rate thumbs up and share.
the best video about alternator check , thanks
Glad you enjoyed it! Be sure to rate thumbs up and share. Thanks
Very well explained
Thank you Ed!
Thank you, very informative!
You are welcome Dan! Be sure to look over my video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you, and most importantly take one minute to share a link to my channel with others on social networking sites. Thank you
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Excellent explanation..
Glad you enjoyed it! Be sure to share. Thank you
Nicely done!
Thanks!
excellent. Thanks
Wow! Best video on alternators! I feel like I can teach!
Glad you liked the video! Be sure to look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you, and most importantly take one minute to share a link to my channel with others. Thanks
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When alternator is cold it's voltage is higher 14.5v-14.8v, but after it warms up voltage comes down to about 13.8v which is what you want to recharge battery after starting. This is temperature compensation which uses a thermistor in the regulator circuit.
Never experienced voltage drop after warming up. Mine stays 14.2 to 14.5.
excellent mechanism of current generation & functions of coil & magnetic field rotor #
Thank you
I like your videos a lot. You do a great job of explaining things. The only problem I have is when you're explaining the AC sine waves, you're saying that no power is created from the peak of the wave That is not correct. The wave is a voltage wave so the peak is the max voltage. The center line is zero voltage and anything above or below that center line is some voltage value between the peak and that zero. I hope this helps. Keep making great videos
Cool. In Toyota Highland 2019, I could not see the hardness output of the alternator. Only I could see is a big cable connector to Battery + and a small wire attached to the frame. I wonder if there is a new design which not what you showed in your video. In Corolla 2018, I could see wire hardness (one wire is hot in the run) right away. Mister, can you show me where the wire hardness output of the Toyota Highlander 2019 alternator? Thanks.
Thank you for posting this vid! It helps demystify that sometimes difficult to understand alternator. In a vid in 2016, you recommended the Mustoool MT826 from banggood as a decent DMM. Do you still recommend this particular model or is there a newer, better model?
Hi there. Yes, that DMM is well worth the money. There are newer versions, but they lack certain features. Banggood is sold out, but I supplied a link to Amazon.
Thanx this was good
Glad you liked it! Be sure to share the video link with others. Thank you
Nce info very helpful explanations thanks 🐵
Glad you enjoyed it Gary! Be sure to share. Thanks
Great explanation,some people born to teach others born to pick up a paycheck 👍
Thanks for watching! Be sure to rate thumbs up, subscribe, and look over my extensive video playlists below for many other videos of interest to you. Taking one minute to share a link to my channel with others on social networking sites would be greatly appreciated.
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The Best master
wow excellent!!!
Glad you think so! Sadly RUclips hides my videos from the majority of viewers way down the search results. Inferior videos show up before mine. This video should have way more views. Please share the link. Thanks!
I was having intermittent draining issues and constantly jumping a new battery. I used a cheap battery charger to recondition my battery, so the battery was fine. I couldn't find the drain. I checked my battery before and after a drive and noticed a lower voltage. I concluded the alternator was bad. I bought a new TYC alternator for $100 on eBay last week and put it in. Everything is fine now. I was thinking about testing my old alternator and after watching this video I decided it doesn't really matter. Unless I test everything it isn't worth testing and fixing one thing. No need to test the regulator if the windings might be bad.
Test everything but the regulator, if everything tests OK, then you'll know the regulator is the problem. Thanks for watching!
@@electronicsNmore May test it for fun, but already swapped it out so i won't be repairing anything.
I'm replacing the bearings in a spare alternator and noticed a bit of corrosion in one of the orange winding wires - it's corroded about half way through. Should I continue with the bearing job or replace the entire unit? For now there is no continuity between the windings and the case. Cheers.
how much wattage was your solder gun used to desolder the rectifier from windings? i am unable to desolder mine!
Is it advantageous to switch an older generator driven car and upgrade to an alternator setup?
Thank you great explanation! Correctme if I am wrong, please? BOTH "slip rings should be the same exact diameter right? if one has a groove in it the slip rings are not wearing evenly? What causes that please? Bad brushes? One brush spring is stronger than the other? thank you.
Yes, they're the same diameter. The brush would cause the groove in the copper ring, possibly has a hard spot inside it. Thanks for watching!
Got it thought so. Thank you!
Hi there, I watched your video and found it really interesting. I have an issue in my van where I am getting 3.81 amps battery drain with the engine switched off. Tried disconnecting all fuses one by one with no joy. However; when I disconnected the power from the alternator, it dropped to an acceptable reading. What could be the cause of this? Not over charging, when running getting 13.65v when idling. Any advice would be very appreciated.
Bad diodes.
Field windings on my Chrysler alternator show continuity to the case in mega ohms and ohm out themselves at 69 ohms .What ya think?
You should not have any reading between the windings and the metal housing. I hope your fingers aren't touching the probes when measuring.
Where do the negative pulses go? Do they go to ground or do they get fed to the battery and field windings too?
There is no "negative" pulses per say. There's only current flow from positive to negative. Current flows from positive end of stator winding through one of the diodes (from anode to cathode). It exits the alternator through its B+ post. It then goes to positive battery post, through the battery, and out the battery's negative post. It then enters one of the diodes through the anode (diode who's anode is connected to ground). It goes through that diode and returns to the other end (negative end) of stator winding that produced the current. The current has to complete the circuit. The current has to return to the stator winding that produced it.
Man your videos would be quite a bit better with a lapel mic, drive out some of that reverb. Great video btw, sometimes I wonder what your actual profession is, given that you know about pretty much everything 😀
The room the video was filmed in had a lot to do with it, but you're correct, I could use a good mic. The audio quality was good and very clear, but it could be much better. Thanks for watching!
I have a problem with my alternator which is, when i open the lamp radio ac, my rpm a dropping , like not enough power.. I check the carbon just fine, do i need change rectifier or ic?? Hope u can help 🙏
There is a symptom that needs to be mentioned here. If you keep getting codes thrown and you have exhausted all other possibilities trying looking at the voltage regulator on your alternater. Signal noise can throw codes P0340 is usually the one thrown, also if you switch to a medium wave radio station with no music (untuned station) the static noise will rise and fall with RPM's, a high chance your regulater is on the blink and sending out noise.
This guy is secretly the Lock Picking Lawyer!
Thanks for watching Greg!
u r the est
All the Way from SOMALI
Hi sir..if one of the coil wind stator wire that connect to the skru rectifier is break(not connected), then can i solder it back??
Thanks for your video..relly enjoyd it
What is the transistor for on the brushes? Where was the trio?
Hi buddy, I just subbed.
I hope you can offer some advice. I've a Parasitic drain that I'm pretty sure is my Alternator. I say 'pretty sure' as there is a 450ma drain when i connect it and the battery drains to low voltage of arouns 12v in 3 days or so. I'm hoping to diagnose without removing from the vehicle.
However, it charges fine and puts out 14.5v even at load. The battery is new but the old one if fine too. I've used my MultiM on B-post and casing and get zero reading, then swap polarity and shows around 450-550. I'm stumped. Almost every single video on Alt testing suggests that if i don't get a reading both ways using the Diode Test setting then it's fine. It clearly is not.
If you disconnect the alternator for 3 days and the car starts right up, then you'll have confirmation.
@@electronicsNmore Yeah this is alerady confirmed, but what I'm questioning is the Diode Test that is all over RUclips etc.
the diode Test on car is fine. I'm not getting a reading the other way.
What else could it be? the rectifier? Could the Diodes be OK? It's definitely the Alternator as it literally only has one wire to it. The other is the Ignition wire. when I disconnect the Positive lead the drain stops. But everything else re the alt is working fine. It charges thebattery, the lights don't flicker and the volatage doesn't drop when at full load.
Could an issue with the Ignition wire cause a battery drain? Say something to do with Immobiliser or ignition?
other videos said to test diodes by putting multimeter red to + and black to case and get 1, then put black to + and red to case and get 500-800, i get 1200, does that mean my diodes are bad ? i want to repair my old broken bosch alternator cause the replacement napa one i fitted has started to give me pulsing headlights above 2500rpm and im concerned its dying after 18months !
thanks
Depending on the multimeter you have, it will either show 1 or OL on the display. They both mean the same thing. They mean there isn't continuity between your 2 multimeter leads.
You're getting 1200 millivolts because you're measuring from alternator case to B+ post. You're essentially measuring through 2 diodes at the same time. You need to measure from the positive diodes on the positive plate to B+post. Place negative lead on B+ post and positive lead on each winding's terminal. The terminals of the windings on the positive plate are the anodes of the diodes. Measure all 3 diodes. You should get about 0.600 volts on all 3 if they're good.Then switch your leads and measure again this time you should get a 1 for 3 diodes if they're good.
To check the negative diodes on the negative plate, place your positive lead on negative plate (ground) and negative lead on windin's terminals. Check all 3. You should get about 0.600 volts if they're all good. Now reverse the leads. You should get a 1 on your display if they're all good.
At about the 4min mark you say it's not making any power, because it's going negative.
But you have 6 diodes so you should be making power on both halves.
I agree, IF the output of each phase is "sinusoidal"(360 degrees of rotation), then the only time there in "no" power being generated, would be at the ZERO crossing point- regardless of polarity or direction. All other degrees of rotation, power is "generated"
Basic electronic knowledge. Good catch.
I repair them,among other mech works,for a living;
1--- diodes are "paired" in two groups of 3 , pos.and neg, cannot test them individually like that,but you can test the whole group,and that helps a great deal;
2---nowadays, for over 10 years now,the voltage regulator is electronic and it CANNOT be tested with voltmeter nor with a test lamp,it works via a square wave sent by the engine ECU,you need an oscilloscope,or test by replacement,a laborious task sometimes.
As long as the windings are disconnected so they do not interfere with the test results, they can be tested individually. What you said about newer vehicles I agree with.
hi sir i have 2004 crysler town and country i found only one wire coming out of field conector going to pcm . when i checked online i found all with 2 wires coming from the conector i changed 2 new alenator and stiil not charging please can you help me?
I'm not familiar with your alternator. Look online for more detailed info about your alternator, and use that info in conjunction with the info I provided to help you troubleshoot your problem. Thanks for watching
Didn't know the bushings where that long, thinking that's my problem they only sticking out about a quarter inch.
why not design brushless like in two wheeler , i live near salty seashore copper turns black in just two days resulting in poor contact .
Hi there. Brushless alternators are specially designed and cost a lot more money.
What about amperage output?
Most people don't have the equipment I have to measure current. If the battery voltage climbs to around 14-14.5 with the engine running, and you see the vehicle has no problem keeping the battery voltage up under load(A/C, etc), then you know there's no problem with the power output. Thanks for watching
I have my 99 Mitsubishi Gallant and the alternator is sometimes quit charging the battery, it's kinda on and off, so is that an alternator issue or ecu or something else 🤔????
Sounds like the rotor brushes may need to be replaced, or a poor connection.
Shouldn't brush resistance be measured as well?
No, the brushes are never a problem, besides wearing down.
I took my alternator to autozone and the guy said it was good but it was throwing 15v the guy said it could be a high output alternator how can i tell if its a high output alt or is it just a faulty alt
Around 14.5V is usually the top, 15V is too high and may cause the electrolyte in your battery to boil. Get a new voltage regulator if the test is accurate. Try another parts store.
Ok thanks for the advice will do that because my battery is new and dont want to destroy it thanks again great RUclips channel btw 👍👍👍
easier to saw the bearing that pull it.
This is describing the inner wiring of an alternator and testing them. The tile is misleading. When I take my alternator to a parts store, they test it. You don't see them doing this nor does anybody else. I appreciated the video. Don't get me wrong. Now if you finished off your video by getting the alternator to produce power showing what to look for to hook up what wire to where with clarity and not hey hook this up to blue and this to white wire..... ( that is b.s.) . That would have been the ticket. Anyway everybody knows what I just said.
Title's not misleading. I explained far more than most YT videos on the same subject, and with very good clarity. Not everyone takes their alternator to the parts store to be tested, many prefer to test them at home, especially if a parts store isn't close by. My video not only gives them that ability, but it also shows them in detail the inner workings of an alternator, so they can swap out faulty internal V-regs, diodes, brushes, etc. It's impossible to please every viewer. Thanks for watching
@@electronicsNmore Put the finishing touch. Hook up the wires and make it produce power. I guess you were too busy for that part and will be. I understand. Look I clearly gave credit to what you did. That is a matter of pure logic and sensibility. But you showed no consideration to what I clearly point at. It is the way it is. To me, clearing seeing that is not new and to most, they don't pay enough attention to even bring it up. Hook it up and produce power and explain the hookups. But you won't because you probably think I am being obnoxious. Oh, I should really mention thank you for replying back, it is the right thing to do that has earned to have had the time to do it.
@@electronicsNmore Some of these comments are pure comedy.
eggzelente
Charging volts shouldn’t be lower than 14.2 to without load and shouldn’t drop under 14 on full load. 13.8 are no good voltages for modern cars.
Nothing on bench testing............Z
Valeo alternator is way better than Wilson !
Didn't c how to change out the stator ! So it's NOT everything u need to know about a alternator....
Really was that difficult to figure out that you simply push it out of the housing once the windings have been disconnected? LOL
@@electronicsNmore Wow, I guess no matter how hard you try and how well of a job you do, there's always gonna be someone not happy
YOU DID NOT TELL ME A DAMN THING, ABOUT HOW TO REPLACE THOSE BLASTED DAMN "DIODES" !??
Oh, another entitled viewer.
he did. he said to replace the rectifier
i just need to know what the yellow dot is on the amrature rotor bro. please help me figure out which slip ring wires which and wat one to solder it to lol. sorry but you missed the most important part for us diy guys. which side is neg and pos on the armature . whats this yellow or orange dot next to the wire? yes im colorblind sorry lol.
Very informative, thank you !
Glad you enjoyed the video! Be sure to look over my extensive video playlist and share. Thank you