I always did this, but used a small steel brush meant for a Dremel in a drill, took forever. The end mill idea is genius. I love it going to start using it today.
Nice tip, I was using a front facing thin wire wheel in a drill that I cut most of the wires off to make it about as thin as a pen, to wire brush the primer off inside the plug, but this looks way cleaner and easier.
You can also drive a nail in a 2x4 with an adjustable wrench. Your ground drill bit works on flat panels but once you’re doing plug welds on contoured panels the end mill will be much easier to use and removes less base metal. But we are all here to better ourselves and learn new tricks so use a drill bit or an end mill
I used a single stage primer called red brown years ago , it was anti corrosion and you could weld without porosity, of course its not available anymore
I scratched out the weld through primer with a scriber after getting those bad starts but this idea sounds good because it’s quick. I thought the 2K primer would burn off?
@@eastwoodco It does mean weld through as the name suggests. The data sheet on Upol weld through primer says "super conductive" why would that be important if you weren't welding through it ? I do agree it's better to remove it on the plug weld area though. It's not doing anything good, I'll try your suggestion 👍
I'm a little concerned about the fumes that would be created if you weld panels coated with 2k. That stuff is nasty. I've met old guys that welded galvanized and others that cleaned metal with brake cleaner. I definitely wouldn't recommend welding any coating or residue without proper protection.
4 месяца назад+1
clorinated brake cleaner will kill you. Galvanize will also kill you or destroy your lungs. I saw recently that zinc weldable primer is also bad and you need a respirator to protect from the fumes
Factory uses spot welds - they're impossible to replicate with a normal welder so plug welds are the standard repair procedure. This is how to properly do them.
Weld through primer is pointless in my opinion. No paint can stand the temperature of molten metal, the primer adds a contaminant to the weld area and finally, the weld through primer is burnt away so you have to treat the area again so costs twice as much. Pointless using it!
It's an imperfect method but you need to treat the areas that you'll know longer have access to for rust prevention. That's why we suggest coating the mating pieces and then removing the primer in the weld area. It might help to think of it as weld next-to primer.
The idea of weld thru primer is that as the weld cools, it pulls the weld thru back into the weld as close as possible from the surrounding area, sealing the weld between the panels. Then, after both exterior sides of the welds are coated, it's got ultimate protection from corrosion.
I always did this, but used a small steel brush meant for a Dremel in a drill, took forever. The end mill idea is genius. I love it going to start using it today.
Thanks for the tip, I know the pain with the primer was just dealing with it until now.
Thanks again! Keep them coming coming! coming coming
Nice tip, I was using a front facing thin wire wheel in a drill that I cut most of the wires off to make it about as thin as a pen, to wire brush the primer off inside the plug, but this looks way cleaner and easier.
Nice tip. Welding through primer always resulted in porosity and a “volcano”. Hated it.
I've only ever had issues with zinc weld thru. The Upol copper stuff is awesome. They lay out flat like your second set.
You don't need to buy an end mill. Grind a drill bit flat on the end and you have the same thing. Learned that tip off of Garage Journal years ago.
Yup, 3/16 drill bit ground flat is a lot cheaper.
You can also drive a nail in a 2x4 with an adjustable wrench. Your ground drill bit works on flat panels but once you’re doing plug welds on contoured panels the end mill will be much easier to use and removes less base metal. But we are all here to better ourselves and learn new tricks so use a drill bit or an end mill
Former auto collision tech and I used that trick on the job all the time.
i'm using this technique. The results are great.
I've always hated trying to weld through primer
3m says to clean the weld area like that with their weld through primer too.
I have always used an 1/8 all the way through and a 5/16 in the panel to fixed to the parent, I will try this thanks
Good luck!
I used a single stage primer called red brown years ago , it was anti corrosion and you could weld without porosity, of course its not available anymore
Great tip - thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for the knowledge
Wow what a novel idea, welding to clean steel. Who could’ve thought of that?
People assume "Weld Through Primer" means you can just arc up on it.
I scratched out the weld through primer with a scriber after getting those bad starts but this idea sounds good because it’s quick.
I thought the 2K primer would burn off?
When you square off the end of the bit, you also need to temper cool it in oil or water immediately after.
We're using an end mill not a drill bit that's been ground.
Ty
You're welcome!
Small die wire brush attachment in a drill is better for stripping the weld through coating back
What the called that his MiG welder has for the finger rest on the shaft
I'm tripping about having a bead blaster in your perfectly clean shop .
I like that light at the end of the gun where did you get that??? I bet its really useful and come in handy alot where did you get it?
Something like this:
www.eastwood.com/astro-pneumatic-500-lumen-rechargeable-lightweight-spray-gun-color-match-light-cri-95-51sl.html
Thank you! Trying to get better at plug welding
You can do it!
I’d never considered that people would try and start a weld on the paint…
People assume "Weld Through Primer" means to actually try and weld through it.
@@eastwoodco so it seems!
@@eastwoodco It does mean weld through as the name suggests. The data sheet on Upol weld through primer says "super conductive" why would that be important if you weren't welding through it ?
I do agree it's better to remove it on the plug weld area though. It's not doing anything good, I'll try your suggestion 👍
I'm a little concerned about the fumes that would be created if you weld panels coated with 2k. That stuff is nasty. I've met old guys that welded galvanized and others that cleaned metal with brake cleaner. I definitely wouldn't recommend welding any coating or residue without proper protection.
clorinated brake cleaner will kill you. Galvanize will also kill you or destroy your lungs. I saw recently that zinc weldable primer is also bad and you need a respirator to protect from the fumes
Who would have guessed that clean metal is eaisier to weld on than one coated with something?!
You're right! But weld-through primer _sounds_ like you should weld-through it.
found out the hard way. Zinc weld through primer made me welds look like shit.
Not supposed to weld true..manufacturers recommend not to use in the weld area
😎👍🇺🇸
NEVER BOTHERED USING THIS AS FACTORY NEVER DID AND CAR WILL LAST AS LONG OR LONGER NOW A DAYS. SO WHY GO THRU THE HASSEL? LOL
Factory uses spot welds - they're impossible to replicate with a normal welder so plug welds are the standard repair procedure. This is how to properly do them.
Weld through primer is pointless in my opinion. No paint can stand the temperature of molten metal, the primer adds a contaminant to the weld area and finally, the weld through primer is burnt away so you have to treat the area again so costs twice as much. Pointless using it!
It's an imperfect method but you need to treat the areas that you'll know longer have access to for rust prevention. That's why we suggest coating the mating pieces and then removing the primer in the weld area. It might help to think of it as weld next-to primer.
The idea of weld thru primer is that as the weld cools, it pulls the weld thru back into the weld as close as possible from the surrounding area, sealing the weld between the panels. Then, after both exterior sides of the welds are coated, it's got ultimate protection from corrosion.