John, what a great save, and quite a beautiful Heart Box. I like how you explain everything in your videos. I'm a retired machinist who's mainly done manual machining with some CNC. But the only CNC machine I programmed, setup and ran was a Lathe. So using Carbide Create will be completely different than how I created Lathe programs. Being a complete newbie to Carbide Create and I don't even have my Shapeoko yet, I went through the Carbide Create training videos and before the programs are completed, there was a preview option of what the finished part will look like. Accidents can happen to anyone especially a new comer like myself. I plan on previewing everything even after I feel comfortable with programming.
Glad you like the videos. I started out wood working on a lathe (non-automated), but I had the advantage of being a programmer. The software takes so getting used to, but you will get the hang of it. Welcome to the rabbit hole :)
Nice work, Nice SAVE! Excellent idea. Thanks for your suggestion (your response to me) by the way about using a RCA tablet in the other box video. I might just do that. Love your teaching. : )
Great video! I learned a lot by watching this. As a professional maker of cutting boards, there is no difference between what you are using and the "laxative" mineral oil you can get in any pharmacy/walmart except the price. You are paying ten times the price for no reason. :-) Cheers!
Hi John, Thanks for all contain that you do, i love all you'r boxes, i have i issue when i do any box they dont fit, when the cnc job finish all are ok they fit perfectly, but after i use water stain and a finish polish they will not fit, they just slide, i now i have kind 20 boxes with this problem, plz help me i can send some pictures on email to see, thanks again
Nice recovery from that mistake, actually an improvement with the contrasting white band. All through the recovery I was thinking is he going to CNC remove the excess height of the inner lip? How would you protect the cedar from going brown if it stayed in sunlight?
Could you discuss stepover and how to adjust to not get the talltail lines when the stepover isn't adjusted correctly please? Your videos have renewed my interest in my Shapeoko again and I'm understanding how parts are working that didn't really make sense before. Thank you.
dionicia12 I am working on a starter video that will hopefully be ready soon. It will cover step over and some other basics. The short answer is that step over is the distance the bit moves over when cutting pockets. I usually have to do a little trial and error with a particular bit to see what clears those lines the best. The default step over is usually half the width of the bit. I would adjust it a few hundredths either way and do some test passes with your chosen bit.
I was watching your videos and your voice sounded familiar but couldn't place it. It finally came to me Ron Swanson (Nick Offerman) from the tv show Parks and Recreation.
Hi John. This is a fantastic box. You sent me the file for the lizard box and it worked perfectly. Would you be willing to share this heart box file with me. Much thanks- Clay
Hi Clay. Glad the box worked out for you. The files for the heart shaped box are up at www.dropbox.com/s/jxtuc160skantvx/heart%20shaped%20box%204.75.c2d.zip?dl=0
John I am trying to follow alone with this video in CCpro and when I get to placing the circles on the square I do not have the midpoints show up the only thing that showe's are nodes in the corner's am I doing something wrong. Jeff
Well done good instruction. Just discovered your channel - glad I did. Wil try and catch up with some of your other box videos. I didn't see a clearance put in between the inner and outer lip, so the lid fit wouldn't be too tight. Did you put one in and I miss it - or did you just make the cuts to the vector lines and then sand a bit to allow the lid to not be to tight. I struggle at times with my lids being too tight and then making the clearance between the boxes too big and then it is too lose. Trying to find the sweet spot if you know of one.
I typically sand (or hand plane if it's a flat edge). For an offset, I might start at .005 and move up slightly from there. I would probably make a bunch of small ring boxes to test and adjust. Less material, but still a sellable item if you are into that sort of thing. :)
New to CNC and just made several boxes with your help - Thanks! I had a question regarding clearance - all the boxes I made with the CNC have more clearance (wiggle room) than I would have expected. Do you also have this issue with your boxes or do you have a way to compensate?
Sorry. This took me way longer than it should have. The project is here: cutrocket.com/p/5d3f0a42ee1cd/ I will also start posting all the video files up to cut rocket as I release things.
I am glad you enjoy the projects. I still have not run out of things to do with Carbide Create, so I am sticking with that for now. Hopefully I am getting the concepts across well enough that it translates. It may be a while before I have $700 - $2000 for new software. I need to play with the demo for VCarve Desktop again and see if it has any big advantages.
@@johnearlclark I use Aspire and while I do enjoy it, I would suggest you stick with what you know. Learning curves with software can take time and you fluidly race through your designs using the software that you are using. Why slow your game? I say to continue with it until you are bored out of your mind, you are a master with what you are doing. If it ain't broke... In my opinion, the tool used to get your designs to come to life is not too important. Like many others, I subscribe because I enjoy seeing your projects for inspiration, ideas and techniques. That said, thank you again for another great video.
typically, the raised part of the lip and the recessed part should be the same height/depth. I find I can always sand the raised part a bit if it's not quite seating completely.
Typically I just do a light sanding to sort of manage the fit. The one thing that makes this box tricky is the "point" at the bottom and the top. Sometimes a 1/4 bit will not get far enough down in the V part of those cuts and it leaves a slightly rounded shape. Since the other part of the lid/box is cut to the outside, you end up with a sharpe V and the two pieces don't quite fit. In that case I just round the V points with a sanding block. Does that make sense?
When I sell boxes they tend to go for $40 or so depending on how much work they are (and how expensive the wood was). I would look for similar boxes on something like Etsy.com and see what they sell for.
New subscriber here, love your videos, and look forward to maybe following some of your techniques in the future. However not sure if you noticed, or maybe youre not too worried, but you kind of doxxed yourself with your z height spacer sheet.
It's been pointed out a couple of times. Fortunately for me, I am no longer in witness protection and they have never been able to prove that thing with the llama and 5 gallons of chocolate sauce was me. I'll be okay. :)
Hi, so I'm having some issues creating a box like this any help is much appreciated, the issue I'm having is when the router cuts the lips it keeps cutting a portion thinner than it shows in create and thick on other areas
It sounds like the inner wall may have gotten off center somehow. If you use the ofset tool to create a new inner wall, does it line up with the current one?
John - is there no way I can pay you do one box for me? It is in the shape of a kitten and it is for my daughters birthday and I don't have the time to learn how to do it.
Hi Randy. If you go to the About page ( www.youtube.com/@johnearlclark )and click the drop down arrow next to the description, you should see a link to "View Email Address" Send me the file there and I will see what I can do.
Хобби
Great use of the program. I learned SEVERAL things that I have been trying to do, thank you, sir!!
Thanks for sharing,John! Keep up the great work!
Great project! thanks for explaining everything so well!
Love the way you fixed the depth issue with the ring and taught me a new trick as well. Thanks
Very nice! Great instruction and editing too. Thanks for sharing!
Your description of how to do this type of project makes this video my go-to when I'm trying to do my own designs of various shapes. Thank you!
So happy to help.
Thank you for the explanation! I equally appreciate the showing of your mistake and how you fixed it. New sub here!
Found this video and executed it today, just the way you instructed. It turned out great! Thanks so much!
Fantastic tutorial! Thank you for the detailed explanation!
I just went through and did this in my software to learn how to do it! You could be a teacher cant wait to get my Shapeoko!
John Thanks for the video It is just what I was looking for.
This is the first of your videos that I've looked at but I'm sure it won't be the last. Great info, well presented - nice work.
John, what a great save, and quite a beautiful Heart Box. I like how you explain everything in your videos. I'm a retired machinist who's mainly done manual machining with some CNC. But the only CNC machine I programmed, setup and ran was a Lathe. So using Carbide Create will be completely different than how I created Lathe programs. Being a complete newbie to Carbide Create and I don't even have my Shapeoko yet, I went through the Carbide Create training videos and before the programs are completed, there was a preview option of what the finished part will look like. Accidents can happen to anyone especially a new comer like myself. I plan on previewing everything even after I feel comfortable with programming.
Glad you like the videos. I started out wood working on a lathe (non-automated), but I had the advantage of being a programmer. The software takes so getting used to, but you will get the hang of it. Welcome to the rabbit hole :)
nice work John sweet box too i really like cedar boxes
Me too. Love the smell of fresh cut cedar.
Great work.
nice. Thanks for sharing Im looking for new ideas today and this one helped me come up with some more things to make.
Nice work, Nice SAVE! Excellent idea. Thanks for your suggestion (your response to me) by the way about using a RCA tablet in the other box video. I might just do that. Love your teaching. : )
Thanks Andrew. That makes my day. :)
Really i appreciate your job
Man those little captions are freakin hilarious!
Thanks again John
You are most welcome. Happy to help.
Nice box John. Only thing is if it was sanded to remove the mill marks on the lid it would be outstanding! :-) Thanks for sharing
Nice way to fix the error into a pretty looking feature (some kind of design element, that was intended)
Nice Save!!
Super 🎄🎄👍
The sign of a good woodworker: A mistake becomes a beautiful "design element"
Great video! I learned a lot by watching this. As a professional maker of cutting boards, there is no difference between what you are using and the "laxative" mineral oil you can get in any pharmacy/walmart except the price. You are paying ten times the price for no reason. :-) Cheers!
In UK it's called either mineral oil or liquid paraffin (daft name for it, not to be confused with your kerosene)
But I looked at content of bottle of Johnson's Baby Oil. 99% mineral oil 1% scent & addatives
Hi John, Thanks for all contain that you do, i love all you'r boxes, i have i issue when i do any box they dont fit, when the cnc job finish all are ok they fit perfectly, but after i use water stain and a finish polish they will not fit, they just slide, i now i have kind 20 boxes with this problem, plz help me i can send some pictures on email to see, thanks again
Nice recovery from that mistake, actually an improvement with the contrasting white band. All through the recovery I was thinking is he going to CNC remove the excess height of the inner lip?
How would you protect the cedar from going brown if it stayed in sunlight?
Could you discuss stepover and how to adjust to not get the talltail lines when the stepover isn't adjusted correctly please? Your videos have renewed my interest in my Shapeoko again and I'm understanding how parts are working that didn't really make sense before. Thank you.
dionicia12 I am working on a starter video that will hopefully be ready soon. It will cover step over and some other basics. The short answer is that step over is the distance the bit moves over when cutting pockets. I usually have to do a little trial and error with a particular bit to see what clears those lines the best. The default step over is usually half the width of the bit. I would adjust it a few hundredths either way and do some test passes with your chosen bit.
I was watching your videos and your voice sounded familiar but couldn't place it. It finally came to me Ron Swanson (Nick Offerman) from the tv show Parks and Recreation.
lol. High praise indeed. Offerman is an amazing woodworker.
Hi John. This is a fantastic box. You sent me the file for the lizard box and it worked perfectly. Would you be willing to share this heart box file with me. Much thanks- Clay
Hi Clay. Glad the box worked out for you. The files for the heart shaped box are up at www.dropbox.com/s/jxtuc160skantvx/heart%20shaped%20box%204.75.c2d.zip?dl=0
John I am trying to follow alone with this video in CCpro and when I get to placing the circles on the square I do not have the midpoints show up the only thing that showe's are nodes in the corner's am I doing something wrong.
Jeff
Well done good instruction. Just discovered your channel - glad I did. Wil try and catch up with some of your other box videos. I didn't see a clearance put in between the inner and outer lip, so the lid fit wouldn't be too tight. Did you put one in and I miss it - or did you just make the cuts to the vector lines and then sand a bit to allow the lid to not be to tight. I struggle at times with my lids being too tight and then making the clearance between the boxes too big and then it is too lose. Trying to find the sweet spot if you know of one.
I typically sand (or hand plane if it's a flat edge). For an offset, I might start at .005 and move up slightly from there. I would probably make a bunch of small ring boxes to test and adjust. Less material, but still a sellable item if you are into that sort of thing. :)
New to CNC and just made several boxes with your help - Thanks! I had a question regarding clearance - all the boxes I made with the CNC have more clearance (wiggle room) than I would have expected. Do you also have this issue with your boxes or do you have a way to compensate?
You can try adding a little SPF 30 sun tan lotion to the mineral oil to help keep the Cedar from browning. It works well on the pens I make.
What a wonderful project John. Love the video. Any chance you can upload the Carbide Create file to Cut Rocket?
Sorry. This took me way longer than it should have. The project is here: cutrocket.com/p/5d3f0a42ee1cd/ I will also start posting all the video files up to cut rocket as I release things.
I like your projects very much. I wish you would upgrade to V-Carve Pro or Aspire.
I am glad you enjoy the projects. I still have not run out of things to do with Carbide Create, so I am sticking with that for now. Hopefully I am getting the concepts across well enough that it translates. It may be a while before I have $700 - $2000 for new software. I need to play with the demo for VCarve Desktop again and see if it has any big advantages.
@@johnearlclark I use Aspire and while I do enjoy it, I would suggest you stick with what you know. Learning curves with software can take time and you fluidly race through your designs using the software that you are using. Why slow your game? I say to continue with it until you are bored out of your mind, you are a master with what you are doing. If it ain't broke...
In my opinion, the tool used to get your designs to come to life is not too important. Like many others, I subscribe because I enjoy seeing your projects for inspiration, ideas and techniques. That said, thank you again for another great video.
I prefer linseed oil over mineral oil because it does not contain contaminants like mineral oil.
for the pocket that you forgot to input what was it suppose to be ? .2 like the other one ?
typically, the raised part of the lip and the recessed part should be the same height/depth. I find I can always sand the raised part a bit if it's not quite seating completely.
Now, how do you go back and add the engraving on the top?
Fortunately, there's a vid for that. :) ruclips.net/video/sOqT5AVoezU/видео.html
Great little boxes. How much of an offset did you use so that the lid fits the box without being too tight or loose?
Typically I just do a light sanding to sort of manage the fit. The one thing that makes this box tricky is the "point" at the bottom and the top. Sometimes a 1/4 bit will not get far enough down in the V part of those cuts and it leaves a slightly rounded shape. Since the other part of the lid/box is cut to the outside, you end up with a sharpe V and the two pieces don't quite fit. In that case I just round the V points with a sanding block. Does that make sense?
@@johnearlclark Yes it does. Thanks for the info!
May i ask for an advice? I think about make a similar box in a similar size, made of padauk. How much would you estimate such work?
When I sell boxes they tend to go for $40 or so depending on how much work they are (and how expensive the wood was). I would look for similar boxes on something like Etsy.com and see what they sell for.
Hi do you not have put an allowance on either the top or bottom to make the pieces fit properly thanks
You can. I get a lot finer control of the fit with just a minute or two of sanding.
New subscriber here, love your videos, and look forward to maybe following some of your techniques in the future. However not sure if you noticed, or maybe youre not too worried, but you kind of doxxed yourself with your z height spacer sheet.
It's been pointed out a couple of times. Fortunately for me, I am no longer in witness protection and they have never been able to prove that thing with the llama and 5 gallons of chocolate sauce was me. I'll be okay. :)
Hi, so I'm having some issues creating a box like this any help is much appreciated, the issue I'm having is when the router cuts the lips it keeps cutting a portion thinner than it shows in create and thick on other areas
It sounds like the inner wall may have gotten off center somehow. If you use the ofset tool to create a new inner wall, does it line up with the current one?
@@johnearlclark I've rechecked the walls and center them within each other before saving the code
JustChris47 is there somewhere you can post the Carbide Create file and I will take a look?
@@johnearlclark i can send it to the email from your youtube if thats ok
@@VikingRacer That works for me.
Hey! WAIT! i got a new complaint. it doesnt look like a box
i think i would had just milled the surface off of lip and called it good
I have the same machine that you have can you share any of your files for the boxes? If not how much would charge me for a Carbide Create file.
They should all be up for free on CutRocket: cutrocket.com/u/jeclark
John is there some other way of communicating with you other then here Jeff
Hi Jeff. If you go to my about page you should see a button for business inquiry email address. You can reach me there.
B
that mistake turned out great!
oh, and those captions :rotfl:
John - is there no way I can pay you do one box for me? It is in the shape of a kitten and it is for my daughters birthday and I don't have the time to learn how to do it.
Hi Randy. If you go to the About page ( www.youtube.com/@johnearlclark )and click the drop down arrow next to the description, you should see a link to "View Email Address" Send me the file there and I will see what I can do.