Tumbling Block 3D End Grain Cutting Board Part 1
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- Опубликовано: 11 июн 2020
- On this week's show, I demonstrate how to make an end grain, tumbling block 3D cutting board. I hope you enjoy this two part series.
Please don't forget to like and subscribe and click the bell so that you don't miss notifications of future episodes of the show. As always, I want to thank you for dropping in to the channel and taking the time to watch this week's program. It is very much appreciated.
If you are interested in making your own cutting board coating, you can find my tutorial here.....
• End Grain cutting boar...
This is without a doubt the best, most in depth tutorial I've seen for this particular cutting board. Thank you very much for the details.
You're very welcome. I'm glad that you like the series. Thanks for tuning in and good luck on your project.
Very simplified version of a project I’ve been looking to do. Thank you.
I hope you found the show useful. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Very well done. You gave all the information and in a timely manner. I've hesitated to make this board in the past, but now I'm going for it. Thanks Dan
Good luck Dan. I hope you have a great time working on the board. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
This is a great project Kenny thank you for sharing with us.
You're very welcome Raymond. Glad that you enjoyed it. Thanks for tuning in to the show sir.
I am thrilled to see this video! I’ve been wanting to make one of these for quite a while, but haven’t found a tutorial that I liked yet. Yours makes me feel like I can actually accomplish it! Can’t wait to give it a try! Excited for part 2.
You can definitely do this Lisa. The secret to this project is taking your time and ensuring that your saw blade is absolutely square to your table. Square cuts and accurately measured angles are essential. A good digital gauge like the "tilt box" makes a world of difference when working on a project like this. Now, no more talk about it.....get out there and give it a try. You've got nothing to lose but a bit of wood and even if the board isn't perfect, the lessons that you learn along the way are priceless and will help you perfect your second board. Good luck and thanks for tuning in to the show.
Gracias... Thank you... Everything very clear ... I especially appreciate the measurements...
I'm glad that you like the board Glauco. Good luck with your build and thank you for tuning in to the show.
Great tutorial, great job. Thanks for sharing.
Glad that you liked it Rafael. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Kenny, I am really glad you are doing this series. It is one of those projects that I have always....well you know how it goes with me...lol. I am really looking forward to the rest of the series. I have always liked the tumbling block cutting boards....hard to figure how it is done. Thanks for having this as a project.
I've been wanting to do this one for the show for a long time Paul but just haven't gotten around to doing it. When I needed a gift for my youngest daughter for her birthday, it presented a perfect opportunity to make her a great gift AND present it as a great show idea. I hope you enjoy part 2 of the series and that you try it for yourself soon. Thanks for tuning in sir. It's truly appreciated.
Very cool tutorial! I cant wait for part 2. I may have to give this a try someday as I have tons of material for this on hand. The one thing I do struggle with is time. But I have always wanted to do one of these, watching you do it makes me want to check this off my bucket list. Well done sir.
Time to stop thinking about it and start doing it Greg. Good luck on your build and thank you for tuning in to the show sir. it is very much appreciated.
Excellent video. I have seen many and even taken a class given by one of those with a video on how to build this board. Kenny does a top notch job.
Thanks for the kind words on the show Greg. I'm glad that you liked it. Thank you for tuning in to the show and for taking the time to leave your comment.
I have watched a lot of videos on making one of these but this is the first to walk you through and actually talk about the thickness of each board and include all the steps involved. Now to just get my maple I have cut down to size (all the wood I got is 3/4 inch right now).
Well good luck with your build John. I hope that by following this tutorial, you will end up with a successful project. Thanks for tuning in and taking the time to leave a comment. It's very much appreciated.
I have done this project and the end result is mind-blowing. I don't recall the sequence or process because it was quite some time ago and so I much appreciate this refresher Heed Kenny's directives for cutting squareness and accuracy. A project with this many pieces, any error just gets multiplied as it comes together and results in frustration. Looking forward to next weeks episode.
Thanks for the kind words on the show Dwight. I truly appreciate it. Many a project has been ruined by a woodworker not squaring their table saw blade before making their cuts. Thanks for backing me up on that. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
You have the best explanation of this
Glad that you liked it David. Good luck on your project and thanks for tuning in to the show.
Great video there Kenny looking forward to seeing the end result in part 2.
Stay Safe,
Barry (ENG)
Glad that you liked it Barry. Thanks for tuning in. It's very much appreciated.
Looks good
Thanks for the kind words on the show and for tuning in David. I truly appreciate it.
Very well done. I am still a bit new at woodworking and your show is exactly what i need. It's clear, and explained in simplest of terms. I am attempting to make one of these but having some issues with setting the table saw at 30 degrees. I am using an app on my phone but when it appears to be close visually it registers 60 degrees. I might need a dedicated measuring device. Anyways, I look forward to future shows.
An app on your phone probably would read as 60 degrees. If the app is seeing the blade at 90 degrees to start, and you tilt the blade 30 degrees to the left, the app would read 60 degrees. The app would have to start reading from zero degrees in order to read 30 once the blade is properly tilted. I'm a huge fan of the tilt box for this operation. Here's a link. www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/67350-tilt-box-ii-digital-inclinometer-for-tool-setting?item=88N9050
I hope this helps. I hope you find plenty of episodes of the show useful. Thanks for tuning in.
Another winner of a project that I’ll want to build. I look forward to part 2. Thank you! -Jim
Glad that you like it so far Jim. Thanks for tuning in to the show and taking the time to leave the kind words. I appreciate it.
While it is true that you can make the blocks as big as you want….however the limit for a 10 inch table saw is 1 inch thick center wood and 1/2 inch maple. This will ensure that your blade will pass through the ‘sandwich’ with the blade tilted.
Thanks for tuning in to the show and for chiming in with your thoughts and advice. It's appreciated.
Best cutting board video yet ! Congratulations ! I notice that in your glue ups you are comfortale with only glueing one edge. Do you ever see a need to glue both edges? Some other vides suggest both edges. Thanks,.
The manufacturers of most glues suggest applying the glue to both sides but I've never seen a need. I've done tests on boards and in all cases, the glue joints held the same whether glue was applied to one side or two sides. The only thing applying the glue to both sides accomplishes in my opinion is it provides more squeeze out to clean up. If you apply a good layer of glue on one side, there will be plenty of glue to squeeze out without the need to apply to the second board. Just my opinion. I hope it helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show and for the kind words.
Hi Ken,great video. I only have one comment on the tutorial. When you glue up your strips you should start with a dark and end with a cherry . Other wise you can’t get the true 3D effect.
I started with a walnut and ended with a walnut and the effect is totally different. Other then that you are a great teacher. Thanks Ted
On the contrary Ted. The board you see pictured in the thumbnail is the exact board that I glued up and laid out during the show and it has the 3-d effect perfectly visible. If you started out with the walnut and it worked for you, then that's great but the way I've done it here on the show is exactly how I did it for the board shown and as you can see, the 3-d is there. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Hey Ken It's been awhile. Well I got the yard mess cleaned up and I made my 3d cutting board It turn out awesome so i want to thank you for the video it made making it easy and if I must say so beautiful. lol NOW On to the tic tac toe game for my two grandsons 👍
Glad to hear that you got your board made. Feel free to send me some pictures. I'd love to see it. Good luck on the tic tac toe boards and thanks for tuning in.
Kenny, Nice job. I appreciate your thorough description. Viewers can speed it up if they wish but if the content isn’t there, you can’t view it if you need to. You make this look easy. It is not. The outcome of these 3D boards are dependent on precise cuts and dimensions without allowances for “in process” sanding/planing.
Glad that you liked the show GW. I appreciate your kind words and I thank you for tuning in.
The end result looks great. I'm curious about reason for ung the quick grip clamps instead of cauls. How does this clamp help?
Using the quick grips in the middle, prevents the centre of the board from bowing up. The quick grip is clamped down to the bar clamps to give it extra support until the glue set. One of these days, I will build a new set of cauls for my cutting boards. Might even be a show idea. I hope this explains the clamps Jim. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Great project! Thanks for sharing.
As for the suggestion to cut with the point of the angle higher on the fence so it wouldn’t slip under, that would require a right tilt saw or cutting on the left of the blade. Personally I have never been comfortable doing that.
Curious why candle wax and not beeswax? Do you have a link to the router bit used for the finger grip?
Thanks!
I knew there was a reason that I cut the pieces that way. LOL. As for the wax, I have used both. You can use either paraffin wax or beeswax. In my area Leonard, beeswax is quite expensive so I go with paraffin. As for the finger grip bit, the bit that I used in the video came in a set so I don't have a link to that particular bit. However, this one would be a great substitute. www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/power-tool-accessories/router-bits/30180-plunge-ball-bits. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Really enjoyed the tutorial and found it very informative. Well done!
I wondered if there is any way that I can calculate the size of each sandwich if I wanted to finish up with a cutting board that was 12 inches long, 7 inches wide and 1 inch thick? I'm trying to avoid wasting wood! Would appreciate your thoughts. Thanks.
At 12:23 in part one, I show that once your first glue up is done, that is the initial width of your board. Because you want to make your board 1" thick, each slice that you cut from that initial glue up has to be 1" thick. You want a 12" board, so you will need to measure the thickness of your glue up and divide that into your final board size of 12", being sure to allow for the thickness of your table saw blade kerf. You will always need more than what you think Haydn to allow for imperfections and flaws in the stock. Unfortunately, waste is inevitable when making these board. I hope this helps a little. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Very nice, Like many here I've been hesitant on doing this, but now I'm going for it. The only thing I missed, and you may have mentioned it is how wide are the boards at the start
The rough cut lumber started off as approximately 8" in width. My jointer has an 8" capacity so they would not have been more than that. I hope this helps. Good luck with your board Christopher and thank you for tuning in to the show.
Great video! Question--if you change the thickness, does then 30 degree angle change?
Which thickness are you changing Billy. The thickness of the board or the thickness of you materials used in the original "sandwich"? Regardless of which one you are changing, the 30 degrees remains the same. If you are changing the thickness of the materials for the "sandwich" and using something other than 3/8" thick and 3/4" thick stock, the thing that changes is the thickness of the 30 degree slices. I hope this helps but if not, feel free to contact me and I will try and clarify. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Very cool! What blade do you use for resawing in the Rikon?
I use a 5/8", 3 TPI, thin kerf blade for the resew on my Rikon. It does a great job. I don't recall the manufacturer at the moment but I can check that for you when I'm in the shop tonight if you like. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Thanks so much. I’ve just picked up the same saw - thanks for your detailed setup and thorough reviews on that too!
I'm about to make a start on my 1st cutting board, using yours as my guide. I understand that the actual measurements are not important, it's the ratios between them but for my initial reference, how wide are your boards at the start of the process, I know they're 24" long and 2 inches thick but not how wide. Thanks Kenny
The original boards were 8" wide. They were actually just a slight bit smaller than that but for all intents and purpose, that was their measurement. I hope this helps. Good luck on your build. Thanks for tuning in.
Thank I am please of the detail you show this my first
Glad that you liked the details Eldridge. Good luck on your build and thank you for tuning in to the show.
I plan on making this board with 1/2 x 1 pieces. My question is this: after the first glue up when I'm ready to start cutting the long pieces would it be at 1" strips or 3/4" like you did in the video?
It would have to be 1" strips Bob. The 3/4" strips only count when you are using 3/4 and 3/8 thick pieces. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in and good luck with your board.
Hi Kenny, when I cut the maple off to make the rectangle, I have a slight bevel at the wide part of the maple. I noticed on your video at the 10:25 that you have the slight bevel also. How did you correct this?
I'm sorry for the delay in responding to this question Carl. I could have sworn that I answered you but for some reason it didn't take. Either way, this bevel is a setup issue and comes from not getting the first cut quite right. The bevel is what is left over after cutting the 30 degree cut. Basically, I didn't take off enough material when setting the fence initially. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in.
Kenny
I have used 1/2 and 1/4 pieces to make my sandwiches of woods. Looking for advice on how thick to cut my 30 degree slices
If you have the 1/2" thick piece as your core with a 1/4" thick piece on either side of it, you 30 degree slices have to coincide with the thickness of your core. So in your case, the 30 degree slices will end up being 1/2" thick. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Out of curiosity, why did you change the stock thicknesses?
Hi Kenny, Love the board. My question is, when you rip the strips at a 30 degree angle, does the width of those strips have to be the same as the thickness of the center board? In your video it’s 3/4 of an inch. I was thinking of using a thicker center board. Thanks Chuck
Yes. The thickness of those slices has to be the same thickness as the core, HOWEVER, if you are changing the thickness of the core, you have to change the thickness of the outer boards. In my original design, my core was 3/4" and the outside maple boards are 3/8" thick. The slices were cut to be 3/4" thick, the same as the core. If you increase the core to 1" thick, you will have to make the maple pieces 1/2" thick and the slices 1" thick. Basically, the maple has to be 1/2 the thickness of the core. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in Chuck.
Thanks Kenny. The core thickness and outer boards I understood, just wasn’t sure on the rip width. I REALLY HATE BURNING AN INCH! LOL
@@1803cannon You're very welcome.
I've done it the other way and experienced a lot of problems. My next attempt will be using this approach.
I hope your project is successful Gary. Good luck with it and thanks for tuning in to the show.
I did make one of these a few weeks ago, mixed results but all my own fault. I'm about to make more but from the stock that I have, it would be easier for me to have use of the dark woods as my thinner pieces on the outside of the sandwich and the lighter wood in the centre of one of them. I can't visualise what, if any, difference this would make to the final appearance. Any idea how it would look?
I am having as much trouble picturing this as you are. The good news is that it will be an interesting board. Please let me know how it turns out. From what you have described, I think you are just changing the light source which will make the cubes face a different way. Thanks for tuning in.
Thank you for a great video. You make it look easy but thorough. You may have said it but how wide are you 2” boards.
Glad that you liked it Peter. The boards that I started off with were just under 8" wide. 8" is the maximum capacity of my jointer so I usually work with boards that are 8" wide or less. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in and good luck with your cutting board.
Thank so much for your quick response. My jointer is the same. I just finished doing a lot of calculations from your video and I sort of figured as much but thought you might have been able to get at least one more angle strip out of each board and thereby getting a little bit wider cutting board out of it, but maybe that would throw off the 3D effect. Just wondering. I love your explanation as you go through the video and also all the comments. Very helpful.
Another quick question. How would maple, walnut and tigerwood go together? Looking at woods that I have or have available.
@@petersiemens1417 Glad to help sir. Good luck on your project.
@@petersiemens1417 The 3D effect is created by having contrasts of a light wood, a medium wood and a dark wood. Hence, the maple, cherry and walnut. I all think it depends on how dark the tiger wood is. A lot of different people call different woods different names. Tiger wood to me is just curly maple, which would take away the medium wood and most likely lose the 3 dimensional effect.
Help! At 7:26 of tumbling block video one you are measuring to be sure you are at 3/4", I measured from the fence to the inside edge of the blade 3/4" and when I cut the piece it was off. Is there a way you can share a close up of how you are measuring?
bob
There isn't a way for me to share a close up Bob but what I can tell you is what to measure. You can not measure from the fence to the inside edge of the blade because the teeth of the blade are actually wider than the blade itself. That's what causes the kerf. The fence needs to be set so that the thickness of the slices after being cut are 3/4" thick. If you are having problems setting the fence, get it close and instead of making a cut, just run the stock along the fence until it touches the running blade. Back the stock out and check your measure. Adjust your fence accordingly and then repeat the process. Made a small cut and check the measurement. Once you have the fence set so that you pieces are measuring 3/4" thick, you're in business and can cut the rest of the pieces. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in.
Hi ! Thank you for this video. I've made some cutting boards like yours with this video but i would like to make some with bigger squares. How would i do ? Cutting the boards at 30 degres at 1 inches (you did 3/4) would it works ? Thanks for the response.
You can enlarge the squares to make bigger 3D cubes on your cutting board, you just have to keep the proportions the same. If you increase one dimension by 25%, you have to increase the other dimensions by 25%. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Thank you so much.
@@martinl4539 You're very welcome.
Hello Kenny! New subscriber :D I loved the video. How wide were the boards that you used? I don’t think it was mentioned in the post. I’d love to take a stab at this
Glad to have you aboard as a subscriber Mark. There's plenty of episodes to be had here on the show and I hope you will take some time to browse around and see what interests you. The initial boards that I used to make this project were just shy of 8" wide. My jointer only has a capacity for 8" boards so I usually try and keep it at less than that. I hope this helps Mark. Good luck on your project. Thanks for tuning in to the show. I truly appreciate it.
@@acutabove_woodworkings definitely helps, keep up the great work.
@@markkish4586 Glad to hear it.
Kenny just an update, I completed the board and can’t thank you enough for you’re thorough explanation and reply.
@@markkish4586 You're very welcome Mark. I'm glad to hear that you board was a success.
What is the router bit used to cut the hand slots ?
The bit that I use for this purpose Byron is called a ball bit. It is much like this one. www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/power-tool-accessories/router-bits/30180-plunge-ball-bits?item=16J1962
They do a great job on cutting the finger slots for cutting boards. If you have a cove cutting bit, you could use that as well but you may have to run the board through the router on its end instead of flat as I demonstrated in the video. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show and taking the time to ask your question. It's very much appreciated.
Hi Kenny I'm finally going to stop making that boy I got it all grew up but I went with the one inch core can I use a 60° angle on the table saw instead of a 30 I appreciate an answer great job
You will still need to tilt your blade 30 degrees. To clarify, if you are measuring the blade from square and considering the blade to be at 90 degrees, then the measurement will actually be 60 degrees. If you are like me and zero out your blade to get it at 90 degrees to the table, then the measurement will be 30 degrees. I hope that helps because I just confused myself. LOL. Thanks for tuning in Alfred. Good luck on your project.
Thanks for the quick reply Kenny I messed up on the first board I'm going to try again thank you very much
@@alfredsanturri922 Sorry to hear that. Good luck on your second board. Practice makes perfect.
Kenny , that was an excellent how-to video with very thorough instructions along the way. I noticed how slow your speech and pronunciation was for the benefit of viewers. Kinda like a true teacher. Just curious why you did not use cauls at each clamp end to even out the clamping pressure and reduce denting. I was also thinking of fabricating a few sacrificial test pieces to make sure the cuts were precise .
Cauls can be used Tony and there is nothing wrong with that. I use cauls when I am having issues with the board bowing under the clamp pressure but I wasn't having those issues with this board. If you wish to use cauls, that's awesome. Also, doing test cuts is a great idea. Better to find out with wood that you planned on being sacrificial than finding out that your cuts are wrong after you've cut all your good stock. Thanks for tuning in Tony and for taking the time to ask your questions. It's appreciated.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Your videos are top notch. You obviously have been PLAYING in your shop for a long time. The tips you give, and the gadgets are inspiring, and I am definitely going to use them. Woodpeckers have some really good stuff as well but spendy.
@@tonymaida8694 Glad that you like the show. I've never used any of the woodpecker products. I haven't found them to be available over here in Canada.
@@acutabove_woodworkings correct , they are not . You can order them online and get them delivered . I think you are on the east coast and not close to the US border . Lucky for me I have a 15 minute gaunt to Blaine Washington. Shipping cost to Canada is very expensive unfortunately.
@@tonymaida8694 The shipping costs from the US to Canada are crazy expensive. The cost of shipping is (in some cases) just as much as the original cost of the item. Then we get charged for customs and brokerage fees. It's crazy.
Hi Kenny! Just curious since I have never made a cutting board like this one. Why, when doing the 30 degree cuts did you not put the sharp point up so that it would not slide under the fence. You could have placed a 30 deg spacer screwed to a sacrificial fence and put a feather board on top to keep it down. I have had such back luck with things sliding under, particularly with sharp edges. I was also feeling pain as I watched that glue up while working on too small a surface. ;o)
Just like everything in our hobby Bill, there are many methods to achieving the same outcome. I like your idea of the angled spacer on the sacrificial board. I may use that one in future. Other than that, there was no particular reason that I chose the method that I did. As for the small work surface, it's one of the drawbacks to a small shop. No room for an assembly table or a larger bench. I have to work with what I've got. Sometimes, I even use the table saw to assemble things on. It's a problem for sure. Thanks for tuning in to the show sir.
@@acutabove_woodworkings My table saw is covered with spray cans of paint for my scroll saw segmentation that I just finished and the new one that I just cut. I am always attacking it with a razor blade to clean glue or paint off of it. Glad you liked the suggestion. We can learn from each other. Had no idea you were a Canadian until the zoo tour with the donkey that was making an ass of itself. ;o) Regards, Bill
@@acutabove_woodworkings I saw your comment about having a small shop. I work in a 3 car garage and never have enough room. So, I would like to make a suggestion that won't take up much space. With everything I have seen you do so far it is on smaller pieces. You don't tend to build dining tables or kitchen cabinets. So...just get another set of pipes for your pipe clamps that are only say 18" long. Then on the rare occasion when you decide to make a big project you can swap in the long pipes. Also, I am curious about the black pipe. I see it everywhere on RUclips but it must have been 30 years ago when I noticed it made black marks on my wood that could be annoying to remove so I went to the galvanized silver water pipe and haven't had a mark since. So, my question is, do YOU have a reason for the black pipes for your clamps or is it just that they looked better at the store when you bought them? Thanks, Bill
@@billinfarmington5189 I love your idea of the shorter pipes. I may just do that. I have built several large projects over the years and the longer bar clamps came in handy durning those builds but some short ones would be great for cutting boards and such. As for the black pipe, the look of it never came into my mind. I went with what was strong and economical and the black iron pipe that is sold at your local big box store was the right choice for me at the time. I never even considered galvanized water pipe but I will definitely consider it now. Thanks for chiming in with your suggestions. I appreciate it.
@@acutabove_woodworkings The black pipes are gas i think and the silver are water. You didn't mention it but haven't you had the black mark up some of your projects? Just curious. Bill
Quick question regarding the thickness after the 30 deg slices. How are you measuring the thickness? After the cut is made, if I lay the piece down flat so there’s maple, dark, maple ( horizontally), is the thickness to the top of the slice? If so, wondering if it would be best to cut a little thick then use thickness planer to get to exactly 3/4’’?
Or would the measurement be along the top edge?
Yes, the thickness is measured just like you describe here. If you pause the video at the 7:26 mark, you will see me measuring the slices to make sure that they are 3/4" thick. I wouldn't suggest using a thickness planer as snipe of the planer will end up causing you issues. Just Check the thickness before actually making the cut and use the table saw to cut your slices. Careful setup of the table saw is all you need here. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show and good luck on your build.
@@ElCidPhysics90 you were right the first time with the piece sitting flat and the layers going maple, walnut, maple, horizontally across the board.
@@acutabove_woodworkings thank you so much for the reply. I did it wrong but now know. Also, good point regarding snipe. I’ll try again.
@@ElCidPhysics90 Glad to hear that you aren't giving up. Sorry that I didn't get back to your sooner. I may have been able to avoid the mess up. Good luck with your second attempt.
I'm wondering how wide the rough cut pieces are. He gives the length at 24 but how wide. Anyone know?
(Hand up in the air, waving frantically yelling "I know!! I know!!"). The original boards were 8" wide. It's the widest that my jointer will accept so it was as wide as I could go. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in and good luck on your build.
How wide is the cut during the 30 degree cut?
At around 6:30 I give the dimension of the 30 degree cuts. Each 30 degree slice ends up being 3/4" thick. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Yes, but if the slice ends up being 3/4" thick, the fence is set farther than 3/4" from the blade, correct? (I sent you a message about this, because I'm confused!)
@@howardbessen4246 Yes. You are correct that the fence is actually set wider than 3/4" in order to get the slice to be 3/4" thick. I can't give you a measurement because depending on your saw's setup, every saw is different. Depending on what blade you use, it can make a difference in what measurement your fence it set to. You will need to make the first cut at 30 degrees. Once you get that cut done, measure in 3/4" from the edge and make a mark. You will need to align your saw blade with this mark, making sure that you are left with a 3/4" thick piece after the cut. Once you have the fence adjusted and the blade is lined up with the mark you measured out, turn your saw on and feed the board through about 1/4" and then back it out of the blade. Take your measurement and adjust as needed. Once you are happy with your fence setting, make all your cuts. Does this clear it up a little better?
How wide were your boards originally?
Each one of the original boards were 8" wide. It is the maximum that my jointer can accept. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in.
@@Kurt9099 That correct. You are measuring the thickness of the 30 degree wedges. I hope this helps.
Need a bigger table/bench I think :)
A bigger bench would have seriously helped with the glue ups. I've made many end grain cutting boards and due to the small sized shop, I have issues with the glue ups. One day, I would love to have a shop with a designate assembly table etc but for now, I have to rock what I've got. Thanks for tuning in to the show Mark. It's appreciated.
How wide are the boards
The original boards started off as approximately 8" wide Alfred. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in.
Thank you for replying so quickly I love your videos great job appreciate
@@alfredsanturri922 You're very welcome Alfred.
why not buy 3/4" stock in the first place?
You certainly can if you wish, but in my shop, all projects start from 8/4 rough sawn hardwood. It is much cheaper than purchasing dimensioned lumber. I hope this answers you question. Thanks for tuning in.