Things I need to remember: 1. Eliminate Blunders! Consistently scan the board, look for weaknesses in your own position and the enemy's. 2. Castle Early. Try to do it before move 10. 3. Fully develop pieces. Develop all pieces - don't stop at just two or three.
I am 830 rated. And upto say 24th move, my win % is close to 75% and then I do a blunder. And I lose in 30th move or resign. Happens every single time. So frustrating to lose from winning position either on time or on blunder
These videos are amazing. I was stuck at 650-725 and then I found this channel. I always struggled with consistency and i wildly fluctuated between these ratings. I figured I hit a wall and would always be a crappy chess player. However, things are finally clicking. This past week I blew right past 700's and 800's and I'm now winning games at 900+ level. Working hard to break a 1000 rating soon.
I was rated 1200 for quite a while, then I stopped having time to play during the day and only had time to play at night after work and after I was exhausted, and then I lost about 400 points and now hover around 800. The bad thing is in most games I can get myself into a completely dominating position and completely destroy my opponent for most of the game and I then either win with a game that I’ve dominated the whole way through or I blunder a queen and a rook due to a lapse in awareness and lose. So in a lot of games I probably look like I’m cheating.
@@kaythia-s9h The thing about blunders though is that its not like we do it on purpose. Sometimes you just don't see it. I'm not even talking about hanging a piece, but more the tactical blunders. That said, more time spent on scanning the board is very sound advice.
@@gelon3333 there is no way you dont make blunders at 500. If you wouldn’t, you would move up in elo and then you would make blunders. But still good for you. (Can I see your account pls, its ok if you don’t want to)
I mean I don't do the common types of blunders like hanging pieces , I just miss tactics or don't calculate enough. I mostly struggle with the middlegame and the rest is quite simple
Yeah I'm 780 and I swear that 800s never really blunder unless it's. Tactic they didn't see. In fact sometimes it feels like 800s are strong players and I get confused because all you hear on RUclips is how bad they are but that's not been my experience. Unless I'm just coming up again a lot of smurfs or cheaters but tbh I think 800s can generally just play solid. I rarely blunder mostly I miss a tactic and that's why I lose
What I am experiencing is not this. I've found that at 800, everyone is a fucking Grandmaster and has perfect plays. I play perfectly, and they still play better than Magnus Carlson. This happens 90% of the time at 800.
Advice for people that are struggling. 1. do puzzles! It helps your vision a lot, 2. Practice mating patterns, so you know how to mate with just a rook and a king or 2 bishop etc 3. make an effort to remember which piece is guarding another piece, at the start I would blunder so many pieces by moving a piece 5 moves later and forgetting that It was guarding something. 3. pick 1 opening for white, and maybe 2 for black, something that deals with a queen's pawn opening and something that deals with a king's pawn opening, and learn some theory and tricks for those opening. 4. Analyse games with an engine, it's super important, find out what move was the start of your downfall and see what move you should have played instead and remember for next time.
@@tpakTaddeus bots aren't realistic tho, bots are about half their rating through intermediate levels. I'm 400 and beat 1000 bots, just means the bots are bad.
Lol and here i am struggling to beat the 250 bot😂😂😂😂😂 it took me 4 days and about 50 games and LOTS of RUclips to finally be able to beat him for the first time tonight, gotta start somewhere though right?😅
@@allisonscanlan4144fr antonio is like 700, I can beat him quickly despite being 800, but 2000+ would be real serious chess bot(but the rating is still not accurate).
I couldn’t seem to break the 700-800 range and put it down to playing too many games without increasing my knowledge/theory. So now I play a few games and then spend time learning stuff, makes a massive difference, so now approaching 1000!! Slow and steady..
That makes me feel better because I've been stuck in the 700-800 range and especially over the last month and instead of playing game after game I'll study and have an idea in mind I want to execute, then play a few games after. Already it's been getting better
@@ChessVibesOfficial in around 2:26 the knight move is a trap where if white takes, black plays d5 and after the trades, black gets to "play as white" and gets a free move
I’m an 800 player and have horrible openings as I haven’t studied any but have a relatively strong middle to end game off of intuition as I don’t make the common blunders listed in the video. I just started chess about 4 months ago and play every now and then. I’m just trying to strengthen my game by learning tactics and am confident I can probably make it to about 1200 to 1500 elo eventually.
I watched this video May 24 and I had then around ~750 ranking. Today, after 23 days... I've just hit 907 :) Thank you for your videos. They were very helpful! :)
Nicely done, and nice application of a spreadsheet to categorize the types of errors. What I do not understand is why, after 79 views, you have but 6 likes.
I really appreciated this! I watched your video yesterday and was able to start a 7 game win streak from those 3 tips! I feel more in control of my time by having this direction for how I should open up the game. I'll look forward to your other videos when I raise my rating.
Thx Nelson . all beginners need this lesson.. you are a great teacher. straight forward and very easy to understand. Practice the basics religiously. Thanks for your Time in doing this and Happy Holidays !!
I've been stuck between 800-900 for a month and my opponents almost never blunder and I don't blunder all that often either. Maybe one in 5 games. I also castle early every game and develop all my pieces. This is happening probably because I am playing a long time control and not playing Blitz.
I don't count blitz as real chess anyway. Anywhere between 3 to 5 minutes with no increment? Yeah, most of the wins/losses are determined by losing on time or time-related blunders.
@@CST1992 I agree. But I've gained a lot of elo since.. I am at 1200 rapid now. My biggest weakeness was playing E5 against E4 and just improvising from there. My winrate was about 38% against E4. I learnt the Scandinavian and my winrate against E4 has been 51% since. I also learnt the Vienna which improved my winrate with white too. However it seems like I am hitting a new plateau at 1200.
@@stevedownie1378 Good to hear. I've posted another comment on this video - let me know what your thoughts are: "Does this still apply? I do every single one of these and still lose a significant portion of the games I play (as in, more than half). - I maybe blunder one or two moves and don't hang my pieces unless it's something tricky like a discovered attack - I castle early, sometimes very early - I've castled by move 4 in some games which is pretty much the soonest you can possibly castle. - I develop all my pieces for sure. Okay, maybe not the second corner rook sometimes, but my rooks are still connected and that rook IS serving a purpose. I don't think my problem is any of these three, but I do have others (at rapid 750): - I am neck-and-neck until 70% of the game and then I end up losing a pawn or something and that disadvantage is enough for the opponent to either win or widen their advantage further and THEN win. Also, I don't seem to win if my opponent doesn't blunder material - in other words, I don't seem to win if my opponent is smart. I never outwit them at their best. - I find myself falling prey to things like trick mates and forks. One move I'm playing okay and the next my opponent moves a pawn and discovers a fork or checkmate which I don't catch and that's it - game over. Keep in mind that I am wise against things that I used to lose at the 400 level - like the wayward queen attack or scholar's mate or the Petrov's defense queen trap."
Thanks! Basically just pulled up a 100 games for a certain rating range and went through each game move by move and whenever I saw a big mistake, I wrote down what the mistake was. Then at the end I grouped up all the mistakes into categories to see what was most common. Pretty time consuming but I think the results are very good to know for new players.
My biggest issue is I follow advice like this and think "oh, this piece is defended so I am fine" and then they attack it anyway and I'm left in a weird position then start making mistakes. I'll take back...but then I lose sight of my strategy and don't know what to do. It's like that with openings sometimes too. I should be safe to make certain plays, but when the opponent does something dumb, it throws me off and then I'll do something dumb. Or I don't know the correct counterplay that makes what they did a bad move.
A couple of things I've learned from watching his speedrun, is to consider advancing a piece to back defend, and not stopping my attention at where my piece runs into an opposing piece but to notice what is behind that piece all the way to the edge of the board. I've also had to work on a subconscious belief that if I have to work hard to win then the victory doesn't really count. Conquering that allowed me to spend way more time considering all my possible moves and my opponents possible moves. Also, to get the rooks to the center even if they have no place to go when they get there.
I am stuck between 775 to 825 for too long ... Once i go down at 780 i start winning matches and when i reach 820 i start loosing matches this is happening from very long time
It's usually the same priority as developing pieces, unless the center is about to opened by a trade of center pawns, in which case it's more important to castle so your king isn't hit with a check from a rook or queen. Hope that helps!
2:20 isn't really a good example though, right? because after ...Nxe4 Nxe4, d5 then black's d pawn (supported by the queen) would fork the knight and bishop and then black would win the piece back right away, correct?
One thing you can try if you're white: you can put your bishop on e3 and Queen on d2 to create a "battery" and then move your bishop to h6 and trade off black's Bishop on g7. Then it's easier to get to his king without the bishop protecting the king. Also the same thing as black, Be6 and Qd7 to create a battery and then Bh3 to trade off bishop on g2.
Really helped me thanks, just making sure I scan the board and don't hang pieces, just played a few games (I was stuck at 700) and now up to 750 without a loss 😊
As a new 600 I find the comment section very informative and interesting. I was stuck at 300 for a while but jumped fairly quickly after doing more suggestions like rooks on 7th or absolute pins and watching videos on RUclips like Alex Banzea
2:33 Nxe4 wasn't a free piece neither a safe move cause in this position, either black can play Halloween gambit which is scary but more importantly a bishop and knight fork with the pawn of D to d5
Not counting blunders...moving pawns too deep too early, leaving the king vulnerable while I'm pillaging, and to eager to make even trades or trades with no real strategic value other than "yum yum eat em up." However, those are 3 things I REALLY enjoy doing so I reckon I'm a forever sub 1000 player.
What time control was this? Maybe number 4 is playing too fast of a time control. Lower rated players can notice a lot of their blunders if they slow down, which builds in the habit so it happens much faster as they get used to it.
Most of these were 15 min games with 10 sec increment. Yeah you are right, I bet if I would have used a data set with like 60 min games we would probably have seen lower numbers in some of these categories.
@@ChessVibesOfficial That's interesting! It seems like that would actually be long enough. When I started I had no conception of how long a game was so I always just clicked 5+5. Almost immediately when I went to 15+10 my rating jumped due to less blunders.
I am stuck at 800 and am pretty sure that only blunders are hindering me as per your reference , but not any of those 400 elo blunders that you've mentioned here ...
Has anyone noticed that opponents on chess.com at the 300-500 level play typically without making any of these errors and many employ some tactics more in the 1000-1400 range? I’ve played 100’s of games at this level and the opponents are inexplicably too good.
report them, they're cheating by using an engine or mirror playing with a bot. some of them might be chess players who made new accounts to get that "climbing feel"
The problem in chess is there are always exceptions. Keeping those pawns in front of the castled king is good, but having an escape route to prevent back rank mates is useful. Sometimes crucial.
Haha Even while playing chess i was forced to resign more than 50 games due to work interruptions.Dropped from 1100 to 700(850 now playing weekly twice).But having fun is what matters!
2:20 it's not really a free piece 😅 I have played before someone who is around the level of 800 for fun IRL and when i took the pawn with the knight he smirked and thought that i was a noob who hanged a piece but when i forked his pieces afterward with the pawn he believed i was some kind of a Grandmaster 😂
The first position he showed was the "italian 4 knights game" and taking the knight isn't a blunder because of d5 forking the bishop and knight, thats why playing the move Bc4 is actually considered inaccurate. Great video, tons of helpful tips.
Does this still apply? I do every single one of these and still lose a significant portion of the games I play (as in, more than half). - I maybe blunder one or two moves and don't hang my pieces unless it's something tricky like a discovered attack - I castle early, sometimes very early - I've castled by move 4 in some games which is pretty much the soonest you can possibly castle. - I develop all my pieces for sure. Okay, maybe not the second corner rook sometimes, but my rooks are still connected and that rook IS serving a purpose. I don't think my problem is any of these three, but I do have others (at rapid 750): - I am neck-and-neck until 70% of the game and then I end up losing a pawn or something and that disadvantage is enough for the opponent to either win or widen their advantage further and THEN win. Also, I don't seem to win if my opponent doesn't blunder material - in other words, I don't seem to win if my opponent is smart. I never outwit them at their best. - I find myself falling prey to things like trick mates and forks. One move I'm playing okay and the next my opponent moves a pawn and discovers a fork or checkmate which I don't catch and that's it - game over. Keep in mind that I am wise against things that I used to lose at the 400 level - like the wayward queen attack or scholar's mate or the Petrov's defense queen trap.
The big problem with being rated 800 is you compete with people who are actually very skilled but just play games when they can’t give their full attention but when you take longer to make moves they pay more attention and so the better you play the better your opponents play and so even if you are playing significantly better in one game than another game you are no more likely to win that game.
The most important thing I have learned from you is that when I see an !!!OBVIOUS!!! clever move, I should look for something better. That has cut my blunder rate considerably. The clever move turns out to be not so clever, or I am missing something even more obvious, or it's the right plan but in the wrong sequence. Your saying "This is a critical point in the game" is something I still overlook too often.
I usually don't resign when I make a blunder. I kinda gives me a rush knowing someone else is feeling joy because of that mate, plus I hate when I'm about to mate someone and the resign lol idk 🤷♂️
Hey Danny you're absolutely correct, it would be better to develop the bishop out before blocking with the knight. In the example I was just focusing on showing how the knights can connect to help each other, but most definitely you shouldn't block your bishops if possible. Good observation. 👍
On the point about leaving the pawns in the original position on the castled side does that really apply to the rook pawn? I Usually move that forward 1 square to give the king an escape route.
That's an exception a lot of times and it can be a good/useful move. It does create somewhat of a weakness on g3, although usually that will be covered by the f pawn so if you have some good reasons to do it, then yeah h3 (or h6) is usually okay.
My additional tip would be to play longer games, play 10min and daily to have time to analyze and sooner you will get this schematic games in your head. On daily I'm closing to 1000, but on 3min I am struggling to keep 700. Also... play on the phone not PC, somehow it's faster. Also allows you to prep the move
I was 800 and then played 20 games very drunk. Now im 500..
Lol....yeah, I've played chess while drinking too. It never turns out well haha
This happened to me as well but I was sober.
@@Steve-nb9kg me too
Drink and play again this time around drink little
Cool. What were you drinking? Also stuck at 800 struggling to reach that 500 lvl
Things I need to remember:
1. Eliminate Blunders! Consistently scan the board, look for weaknesses in your own position and the enemy's.
2. Castle Early. Try to do it before move 10.
3. Fully develop pieces. Develop all pieces - don't stop at just two or three.
As I was busy capturing all my opponent's pieces, he mated me with 2 other pieces
Yea for me only about a 1/10 of my losses are from blunders, that’s the only real difference between a 400 and 800 is the amount of blunders you make.
I also need to remember these.
I am 830 rated. And upto say 24th move, my win % is close to 75% and then I do a blunder. And I lose in 30th move or resign. Happens every single time. So frustrating to lose from winning position either on time or on blunder
@@johnhonai4601 player longer time control and double check blundera before making any move
These videos are amazing. I was stuck at 650-725 and then I found this channel. I always struggled with consistency and i wildly fluctuated between these ratings. I figured I hit a wall and would always be a crappy chess player. However, things are finally clicking. This past week I blew right past 700's and 800's and I'm now winning games at 900+ level. Working hard to break a 1000 rating soon.
What's your rating now or you left chess?
@@ricoarguijo My current daily chess rating is 1003, This seems to be about the highest I can go.
I also beat a 1900 rated player one time too.
I was rated 1200 for quite a while, then I stopped having time to play during the day and only had time to play at night after work and after I was exhausted, and then I lost about 400 points and now hover around 800. The bad thing is in most games I can get myself into a completely dominating position and completely destroy my opponent for most of the game and I then either win with a game that I’ve dominated the whole way through or I blunder a queen and a rook due to a lapse in awareness and lose. So in a lot of games I probably look like I’m cheating.
omg you are a piro player master im stuck too help me
I know that everyone feels like they’re not this kind of 800 but then they make blunders like this
You are absolutely right bro, even myself is also this kind of player.
Seriously, man. I blundered my Queen two games ago. Hoping this vid will help me break out.
@@kaythia-s9h The thing about blunders though is that its not like we do it on purpose. Sometimes you just don't see it. I'm not even talking about hanging a piece, but more the tactical blunders. That said, more time spent on scanning the board is very sound advice.
Me : has 508 rating and is over with blunders
Watching examples how 800 players play : *confusion*
@@gelon3333 there is no way you dont make blunders at 500. If you wouldn’t, you would move up in elo and then you would make blunders. But still good for you. (Can I see your account pls, its ok if you don’t want to)
I mean I don't do the common types of blunders like hanging pieces , I just miss tactics or don't calculate enough. I mostly struggle with the middlegame and the rest is quite simple
when I try to set my peieces up they usually get snagged before I can do anything with them.
Same, tbh the 800 play shown here is not even played on 600, some people on this rating can play at 70-80% accuracy most games
@@gbkgames2087 im 600 and dont make these blunders, i do mostly in mid- to late-game.
I struggle at end games
Yeah I'm 780 and I swear that 800s never really blunder unless it's. Tactic they didn't see. In fact sometimes it feels like 800s are strong players and I get confused because all you hear on RUclips is how bad they are but that's not been my experience. Unless I'm just coming up again a lot of smurfs or cheaters but tbh I think 800s can generally just play solid. I rarely blunder mostly I miss a tactic and that's why I lose
What I am experiencing is not this. I've found that at 800, everyone is a fucking Grandmaster and has perfect plays. I play perfectly, and they still play better than Magnus Carlson. This happens 90% of the time at 800.
So true.
As an 800 rated grandmaster myself, I hope you know I, like Magnus, mastered the drunken style
Advice for people that are struggling. 1. do puzzles! It helps your vision a lot, 2. Practice mating patterns, so you know how to mate with just a rook and a king or 2 bishop etc 3. make an effort to remember which piece is guarding another piece, at the start I would blunder so many pieces by moving a piece 5 moves later and forgetting that It was guarding something. 3. pick 1 opening for white, and maybe 2 for black, something that deals with a queen's pawn opening and something that deals with a king's pawn opening, and learn some theory and tricks for those opening. 4. Analyse games with an engine, it's super important, find out what move was the start of your downfall and see what move you should have played instead and remember for next time.
My rating is 1900 in puzzles and i have 1700+ games but still stuck at 800 rating idk, i have even beat bots that are 1400-1600 rating
@@tpakTaddeus bots aren't realistic tho, bots are about half their rating through intermediate levels. I'm 400 and beat 1000 bots, just means the bots are bad.
Lol and here i am struggling to beat the 250 bot😂😂😂😂😂 it took me 4 days and about 50 games and LOTS of RUclips to finally be able to beat him for the first time tonight, gotta start somewhere though right?😅
@@allisonscanlan4144 Bots can be unrealistically poor players, I agree. That is my experience.
@@allisonscanlan4144fr antonio is like 700, I can beat him quickly despite being 800, but 2000+ would be real serious chess bot(but the rating is still not accurate).
I couldn’t seem to break the 700-800 range and put it down to playing too many games without increasing my knowledge/theory. So now I play a few games and then spend time learning stuff, makes a massive difference, so now approaching 1000!! Slow and steady..
What resources did you learn from? I’d like to read something useful but don’t know what stuff adds real value
@@JDFuckinB you can try GothamChess' courses.
That makes me feel better because I've been stuck in the 700-800 range and especially over the last month and instead of playing game after game I'll study and have an idea in mind I want to execute, then play a few games after. Already it's been getting better
There is really not that much difference between 800 and 1,000, just blundering a little less would be 1,000.
Nicely done. I was 850ish and I played a tournement and i was 12wins 2 losses and after i was on a high to 1200
The tournement was against 1100s+ lol
Wow nice man! Keep it up! Thanks for the comment!
Huh, I also got 6 straight wins in a tournament while at 750. I guess I will do more of those
@@ChessVibesOfficial in around 2:26 the knight move is a trap where if white takes, black plays d5 and after the trades, black gets to "play as white" and gets a free move
I’m an 800 player and have horrible openings as I haven’t studied any but have a relatively strong middle to end game off of intuition as I don’t make the common blunders listed in the video. I just started chess about 4 months ago and play every now and then. I’m just trying to strengthen my game by learning tactics and am confident I can probably make it to about 1200 to 1500 elo eventually.
I watched this video May 24 and I had then around ~750 ranking. Today, after 23 days... I've just hit 907 :) Thank you for your videos. They were very helpful! :)
Awesome! Glad you're improving! Thanks for sharing that, means a lot 👍
@@ChessVibesOfficial ty for the video my rating increased from 740 - 750ish to now 796 and I'm still going up
just for reference, now I'm around 926... but already have been at 966. I hope I will reach 1000 in 2-4 weeks.
@@noisypl what's your rating now?
@@shubbyshabaashe’s 853
Nicely done, and nice application of a spreadsheet to categorize the types of errors. What I do not understand is why, after 79 views, you have but 6 likes.
Russ, your comment made my day. Really appreciate it!
@@ChessVibesOfficial OK, so now you have seven likes after 122 views. Slow but steady wins the race, right?
Haha Russ, that's what they say =P
Sorry its 8.9k now
@@ChessVibesOfficial 815 likes now! Slow and steady indeed!
I really appreciated this! I watched your video yesterday and was able to start a 7 game win streak from those 3 tips! I feel more in control of my time by having this direction for how I should open up the game. I'll look forward to your other videos when I raise my rating.
Awesome Doug, keep it up! 👍
I was overcomplicating things but have noticed these 3 issues over a series of games, trying to get past 1000. You are phenomenal. Thank you!
Thx Nelson . all beginners need this lesson.. you are a great teacher. straight forward and very easy to understand. Practice the basics religiously. Thanks for your Time in doing this and Happy Holidays !!
exactly the kind of vid i needed - keep up the good work
Thank you! Will do 👍
Thank you so much for this video! With your help I was able to get my first ever brilliant move at 600 and win! I cannot thank you enough.
I've been stuck between 800-900 for a month and my opponents almost never blunder and I don't blunder all that often either. Maybe one in 5 games. I also castle early every game and develop all my pieces. This is happening probably because I am playing a long time control and not playing Blitz.
I don't count blitz as real chess anyway. Anywhere between 3 to 5 minutes with no increment? Yeah, most of the wins/losses are determined by losing on time or time-related blunders.
@@CST1992 I agree. But I've gained a lot of elo since.. I am at 1200 rapid now. My biggest weakeness was playing E5 against E4 and just improvising from there. My winrate was about 38% against E4. I learnt the Scandinavian and my winrate against E4 has been 51% since. I also learnt the Vienna which improved my winrate with white too. However it seems like I am hitting a new plateau at 1200.
@@stevedownie1378 Good to hear. I've posted another comment on this video - let me know what your thoughts are:
"Does this still apply?
I do every single one of these and still lose a significant portion of the games I play (as in, more than half).
- I maybe blunder one or two moves and don't hang my pieces unless it's something tricky like a discovered attack
- I castle early, sometimes very early - I've castled by move 4 in some games which is pretty much the soonest you can possibly castle.
- I develop all my pieces for sure. Okay, maybe not the second corner rook sometimes, but my rooks are still connected and that rook IS serving a purpose.
I don't think my problem is any of these three, but I do have others (at rapid 750):
- I am neck-and-neck until 70% of the game and then I end up losing a pawn or something and that disadvantage is enough for the opponent to either win or widen their advantage further and THEN win. Also, I don't seem to win if my opponent doesn't blunder material - in other words, I don't seem to win if my opponent is smart. I never outwit them at their best.
- I find myself falling prey to things like trick mates and forks. One move I'm playing okay and the next my opponent moves a pawn and discovers a fork or checkmate which I don't catch and that's it - game over. Keep in mind that I am wise against things that I used to lose at the 400 level - like the wayward queen attack or scholar's mate or the Petrov's defense queen trap."
Awesome, just what I needed as a beginner. Subscribed!
Welcome aboard!
you should move at least one of the pawns that protect the king ( after castling) to prevent backranked checkmate
I realized 800 rating players aren't weak as I expected before
Thanks for the content man. I'm enjoying your channel. I appreciate it your channel. I appreciate the freshness you bring
Ah yes, first tip is dont make blunders by paying attention. Very insightful
Thanks to this, I got 800! Thanks chessvibes! On to 1000!
2:34 I don't think that black blunders the Night but exchanges it after d5.
Thank you so much, i just won 10 in a row!
Awesome buddy, keep it up!
I have a tournament today in u1100 and I will be back to tell you how good I did. Thanks for the tips.
Best of luck!
How did you do?
@@leifyeiser2366 I didn't do that well I only got 2/4 points
This is a great video for chess tips but I’m more impressed at the data analysis and interested in what your methods were there. Pretty cool stuff👍
Thanks! Basically just pulled up a 100 games for a certain rating range and went through each game move by move and whenever I saw a big mistake, I wrote down what the mistake was. Then at the end I grouped up all the mistakes into categories to see what was most common. Pretty time consuming but I think the results are very good to know for new players.
Very helpful. Love your teaching style!
My biggest issue is I follow advice like this and think "oh, this piece is defended so I am fine" and then they attack it anyway and I'm left in a weird position then start making mistakes. I'll take back...but then I lose sight of my strategy and don't know what to do. It's like that with openings sometimes too. I should be safe to make certain plays, but when the opponent does something dumb, it throws me off and then I'll do something dumb. Or I don't know the correct counterplay that makes what they did a bad move.
Same with me
It's always those weird moves that cause me to play badly.
Thank You this help me to play sharper and gian like 50 elo points really fast
A couple of things I've learned from watching his speedrun, is to consider advancing a piece to back defend, and not stopping my attention at where my piece runs into an opposing piece but to notice what is behind that piece all the way to the edge of the board. I've also had to work on a subconscious belief that if I have to work hard to win then the victory doesn't really count. Conquering that allowed me to spend way more time considering all my possible moves and my opponents possible moves. Also, to get the rooks to the center even if they have no place to go when they get there.
I am stuck between 775 to 825 for too long ... Once i go down at 780 i start winning matches and when i reach 820 i start loosing matches this is happening from very long time
Want to play again me im 700
@@wokkeredmi2193 okay
@@Rishav15 do you have discord?
3:35 Where do you think castling should be in your list of priorities, compared to developing of pawns, knights and bishops?
It's usually the same priority as developing pieces, unless the center is about to opened by a trade of center pawns, in which case it's more important to castle so your king isn't hit with a check from a rook or queen. Hope that helps!
You actually did quite a research to make that video! Well done ✅ 👍
Thanks man--instantly helped my game!
Dunno about your other vidios, but this one is top! Really nice stuff
Thanks a lot, Kamen!
great diagnosis, I hope that one day I start blundering less and less.
Not sure if you've seen this one yet but it might help: ruclips.net/video/GfmDBpbqMAI/видео.html
i viewed a lot chess channels to improve something. i think you have the most useful informations to use instantly. i think u will grow fast :)
I appreciate that!
2:20 isn't really a good example though, right? because after
...Nxe4
Nxe4, d5
then black's d pawn (supported by the queen) would fork the knight and bishop and then black would win the piece back right away, correct?
I have been seeing the Fianchetto set up that is then used to protect the castling side. Difficult to get around it. Thanks for the vid!
One thing you can try if you're white: you can put your bishop on e3 and Queen on d2 to create a "battery" and then move your bishop to h6 and trade off black's Bishop on g7. Then it's easier to get to his king without the bishop protecting the king. Also the same thing as black, Be6 and Qd7 to create a battery and then Bh3 to trade off bishop on g2.
Really helped me thanks, just making sure I scan the board and don't hang pieces, just played a few games (I was stuck at 700) and now up to 750 without a loss 😊
Awesome, man! Glad it's helping, thanks for that comment!
Hi Yony Bear, what rating are you?
@@austinm8242 I've been flotation around 900 this last month! Add me! Yonybear316
4:10 Except for the a/h rank pawn, because it may get you into back-rank checkmate.
Wow crazy how I don't really make any of these big mistakes and yet still lose, truly wild stuff
really nice video, and nice work you did by studying all these games
you got one more sub
Thanks for the sub!
The only thing I learned in this video is to not blunder. Which is pretty self explanatory to not do
Great video! Thanks man.
Nice video man, keep it up!
Thanks, Akki, will do!
Good video, its helps a lot.
In the when 2:42 minutes were up when you were talking about it there is a trick nxe4 nxe4 d5 so it’s fine.
I highly recommend double fianchetto if your black pieces. Most 400-800 players don’t know how to stop it.
Thanks! I went 850 to 1150 in 5 days
whats your chess rating now?
@@hitorinyan i quited chess 6 months ago but im 1200
As a new 600 I find the comment section very informative and interesting. I was stuck at 300 for a while but jumped fairly quickly after doing more suggestions like rooks on 7th or absolute pins and watching videos on RUclips like Alex Banzea
thanks bro u win 10/12 of my last game u were so right
Aww yeah nice!
TY for your help . I am new and u are great
2:33 Nxe4 wasn't a free piece neither a safe move cause in this position, either black can play Halloween gambit which is scary but more importantly a bishop and knight fork with the pawn of D to d5
6:04 you made a shuriken with the arrows lol
Not counting blunders...moving pawns too deep too early, leaving the king vulnerable while I'm pillaging, and to eager to make even trades or trades with no real strategic value other than "yum yum eat em up." However, those are 3 things I REALLY enjoy doing so I reckon I'm a forever sub 1000 player.
😂 my case exactly
What time control was this? Maybe number 4 is playing too fast of a time control. Lower rated players can notice a lot of their blunders if they slow down, which builds in the habit so it happens much faster as they get used to it.
Most of these were 15 min games with 10 sec increment. Yeah you are right, I bet if I would have used a data set with like 60 min games we would probably have seen lower numbers in some of these categories.
@@ChessVibesOfficial That's interesting! It seems like that would actually be long enough. When I started I had no conception of how long a game was so I always just clicked 5+5. Almost immediately when I went to 15+10 my rating jumped due to less blunders.
@@ChessVibesOfficial...
Ah thanks Robert! Kicking the new farm by the way! Rock n roll 😎🤙🤘
i’m currently at the 700s range and only have beaten an 800 once i will be back in around a week once i’m 800+
Great, lilcheo!
@@ChessVibesOfficial well it took me 2 weeks lmao i’m rated 869 and I beat a 950+ rated player 😄
@@lilcheo5658 congrats! Keep it up!
I am an 800 patzer who for some reason keeps hanging my queen. I castle and develop fairly well. I got to work on blundering
I am stuck at 800 and am pretty sure that only blunders are hindering me as per your reference , but not any of those 400 elo blunders that you've mentioned here ...
Has anyone noticed that opponents on chess.com at the 300-500 level play typically without making any of these errors and many employ some tactics more in the 1000-1400 range? I’ve played 100’s of games at this level and the opponents are inexplicably too good.
report them, they're cheating by using an engine or mirror playing with a bot. some of them might be chess players who made new accounts to get that "climbing feel"
Their's a video of GM hikaru playing with 500 rating lol. Sometimes 800 rated players play shit and 600 rated players defeat me. It's weird.
The problem in chess is there are always exceptions. Keeping those pawns in front of the castled king is good, but having an escape route to prevent back rank mates is useful. Sometimes crucial.
Thank you Nelson!
2:20 after knight takes knight isn’t d5 a fork?
Haha Even while playing chess i was forced to resign more than 50 games due to work interruptions.Dropped from 1100 to 700(850 now playing weekly twice).But having fun is what matters!
Yeah that would be an interesting statistic to see, how many people lose games due to interruptions!
Nelson is really an awesome teacher, I've tried to learn something from gothamchess i don't like that dude at all😂
omg i found someone that relates to me 😂 ikrr! that dude must be for advanced players he’s not much helpful in my case 🥲
2:20 it's not really a free piece 😅
I have played before someone who is around the level of 800 for fun IRL and when i took the pawn with the knight he smirked and thought that i was a noob who hanged a piece but when i forked his pieces afterward with the pawn he believed i was some kind of a Grandmaster 😂
The first position he showed was the "italian 4 knights game" and taking the knight isn't a blunder because of d5 forking the bishop and knight, thats why playing the move Bc4 is actually considered inaccurate.
Great video, tons of helpful tips.
Does this still apply?
I do every single one of these and still lose a significant portion of the games I play (as in, more than half).
- I maybe blunder one or two moves and don't hang my pieces unless it's something tricky like a discovered attack
- I castle early, sometimes very early - I've castled by move 4 in some games which is pretty much the soonest you can possibly castle.
- I develop all my pieces for sure. Okay, maybe not the second corner rook sometimes, but my rooks are still connected and that rook IS serving a purpose.
I don't think my problem is any of these three, but I do have others (at rapid 750):
- I am neck-and-neck until 70% of the game and then I end up losing a pawn or something and that disadvantage is enough for the opponent to either win or widen their advantage further and THEN win. Also, I don't seem to win if my opponent doesn't blunder material - in other words, I don't seem to win if my opponent is smart. I never outwit them at their best.
- I find myself falling prey to things like trick mates and forks. One move I'm playing okay and the next my opponent moves a pawn and discovers a fork or checkmate which I don't catch and that's it - game over. Keep in mind that I am wise against things that I used to lose at the 400 level - like the wayward queen attack or scholar's mate or the Petrov's defense queen trap.
The big problem with being rated 800 is you compete with people who are actually very skilled but just play games when they can’t give their full attention but when you take longer to make moves they pay more attention and so the better you play the better your opponents play and so even if you are playing significantly better in one game than another game you are no more likely to win that game.
very Good lesson. Thank's
Me being a 1100 rated player watching vids for 800
This isn't my experience. I'm developing, casting, and doing very few blunders and can't get over 800. Its really aggravating.
Thanks, I've gone up to 1012 from 800 in one month:).
Great insights! Thank you. 😀👌
No problem, Miguel! Thanks for the comments!
Great content you’ve earned yourself another sub goodsir
Thanks, Abdul!
@@ChessVibesOfficial 😁
Good advice. I'll put it to the test. Hopefully my 880 ELO will improve.
Thank you ... very helpful tips
2:20 but if white takes with a knight, black can push D6 and make a fork...
The most important thing I have learned from you is that when I see an !!!OBVIOUS!!! clever move, I should look for something better. That has cut my blunder rate considerably. The clever move turns out to be not so clever, or I am missing something even more obvious, or it's the right plan but in the wrong sequence. Your saying "This is a critical point in the game" is something I still overlook too often.
I usually don't resign when I make a blunder. I kinda gives me a rush knowing someone else is feeling joy because of that mate, plus I hate when I'm about to mate someone and the resign lol idk 🤷♂️
I was 970 and now I am 700 😕 it's heart breaking and this are exact mistakes I have done
6:36 Doesn’t this interfere with the development of the c bishop?
Hey Danny you're absolutely correct, it would be better to develop the bishop out before blocking with the knight. In the example I was just focusing on showing how the knights can connect to help each other, but most definitely you shouldn't block your bishops if possible. Good observation. 👍
@@ChessVibesOfficial Much appreciated, thanks! :)
Great advice
Thanks, Dwayne!
Can you make a video about :"reasons why you are stuck at 280". 🙂 I'm struggling to increase my elo.
I am at 650 and get wrecked with peoples aggressive openings lol
On the point about leaving the pawns in the original position on the castled side does that really apply to the rook pawn? I Usually move that forward 1 square to give the king an escape route.
That's an exception a lot of times and it can be a good/useful move. It does create somewhat of a weakness on g3, although usually that will be covered by the f pawn so if you have some good reasons to do it, then yeah h3 (or h6) is usually okay.
Technically castling on the queen side takes two moves, since you gotta move two pawns to be able to move the queen as well
Nope. Moving one pawn is enough
Really helpful
Glad it helped!
My additional tip would be to play longer games, play 10min and daily to have time to analyze and sooner you will get this schematic games in your head. On daily I'm closing to 1000, but on 3min I am struggling to keep 700. Also... play on the phone not PC, somehow it's faster. Also allows you to prep the move
Good shit flight Mike
I normally only castle to out position my opponent. Not really for defence. I think it’s a waste of a move unless you have an existing advantage.
Thanks so much
2:24 It’s not free, d5 fork wins back the piece?
How do you deal with trapped pieces? I simply get my development hindered/ my pieces blundered by random pawn moves
I'm stuck at 1400. Can you make a video for us?
It's there, check the channel!
Thanks I went from 500 to almost 800
I love sport even im always loosing at chess i never give up bc i know practice makes better.