Buddy it's not a ruuf ! It's called a roof ! Please just say it one time ! ROOF. Love what your doing man ! It's really quit amazing ! I'd love to have that in my basement ! You rock ! Keep it coming ! 👍👍👍
Wow! Your patience certainly paid off! I have a roll of shingle paper, unused in my supply drawer. The detailed instructions have inspired me. Thanks for a great video and for sharing your experiences and techniques.
Jason, I use a lot of the TiteBond glue, the green label, for working on full size boats and love it. I think the only difference is the green label is water proof. It is very durable, and doing a stress test the wood will break before the glue joint. Great videos, Jason. Keep them coming
I use both, for scenery I use whit glue. I build mostly in styrene so my weapon of choice is Plasteuct plastic weld! For wood I will use titebond. I still use good old testors cement, airplane glue! They all have their place! I love tacky glue, and use that a lot! Love your videos!
That was great Jason! I enjoyed all the tips and details! I forgot about sanding the back of signs before cutting them out. Thanks for trying the Titebond because it convinced me to stick with the white glue. I’m slow and messy so a quick drying glue is not for me. The buildings came out great, I loved all three! I’m always amazed at how fast you work with such precision. Thanks again!
Hello Jason, how jealous I am ! because with the cost of transport and customs it is difficult to subscribe to the "Kit of the month" Ten days ago I received my order from Rusty Rail, everything is perfect and I had two good surprises , first he sent me a set of barrels for free and in addition gave me a rebate of 10 dollars on transport. Thank you Jason for pointing out these great companies! Thank you again and take care of yourself and yours.
Hey Jason, great video. With 31,000+ subscribers if even if 1% left a comment, it would be a pretty daunting task to reply to them all. Thanks for the great ideas and the detail.
Jason, I have tried Titebond Original, Interior Use, glue and had great luck with it. One nice thing is if you want to move a piece, the glue is water soluble and you can apply a little water at the joint with a paint brush. After a short time you can remove the piece, and reapply it where you want it. Another great build, as usual. Thanks again for sharing it.
Great build as usual, it's really impressive how easy you make everything look to assemble, and your paint skills are over the top. Regular Titebond sets more like Elmers,, Titebond 2 sets quicker and is water resistant and not really needed for the models and Titebond 3 is water proof. Haven't tried it with Titebond glues but I know if you need to remove something with Elmer's you can apply a little heat with iron and it will lift off. Keep up great work Jason, videos are awesome. Also as a side note, you can add about 40% water to Titebond glue and not affect strength of it and slows down dry times.
Hi Jason, I totally feed off your passion for modeling. I'm doing highly detailed paper or card modeling and found that for me, the perfect glue is Aleen's.
I have dozens of glue choices, but I use Titebond most often for my wooden models. The right amount of squeeze-out is usually zero anyway, but the yellow and fast-set can be issues. My models are usually displayed in new condition, unlike your beautifully antiqued structures. Everything was new once! I’m currently working on an old (2010) model of the 1902 school from the town of Skykomish, WA. The model is going to be displayed with its roof removed after 12 years in the museum with the roof on. Great fun to let visitors see what’s inside! Come up to Skykomish for a visit. I learn so much from your builds! Thank you for the excellent videos.
Jason.. Not only are you a talented modeler... You're also a wonderful teacher explaining how you do different techniques. Have a Jesus filled day everyone Greg in Michigan
Jason, I'm a new subscriber. I really love the channel and your structures. I have been building for over 60 years and have learned a lot from these videos. I'm still undecided about the sponge painting though.
Thank you so much Roger!!! I truly appreciate it! The sponge painting makes practice. I find if you grab the sponge with tweezers instead of your fingers, it ends up looking better (not so heavy handed). Thanks for watching, I really appreciate it!!!
Another awesome build Jason!! Glad to see you've switch to yellow carpenter's glue, it's a more permanent and stronger bond than white glue. Having to be extra careful with excess glue is a minor problem. But it's also a good idea to have both glues on hand, where one (white glue in the case of gluing signs onto structures) works better than the other. One tip for doing your trim, where you are trying to get the angles to match the roof. Prior to starting construction, take the structure parts that make up the pitched roof (angled parts) and trace the outside of the parts on a piece of paper or scrap cardstock. This will provide an accurate template for cutting the angles onto the wood trim later on. Thanks for sharing another great build. You make it look easy and I find your youthful enthusiasm for what you do, refreshing!
What WHJeffB says is spot on. I love the first build with the two structures. I wish FosScale had more O scale kits like this. (They only have a few) I continue to enjoy your builds. Thank you.
I too use Titebond II for wood to wood bonds. Since I also build furniture and cabinets It is always on hand and I like the quick dry time. Thanks for another great video!
Well it looks like you have enough glue to last you awhile but I have found Weldbond to be a fantastic PVA glue. Like Glenn mentioned earlier, I use a plastic squeeze bottle with a 14ga. metal applicator tip for dispensing the Weldbond that I thin with water. Straight out of the bottle it has a quick set time like the Titebond (but dries clear). Thinning increases the working time and ease of flow from the dispenser. Great video and modeling as always!
Thank you so much!!! I really appreciate it! I need to find a metal tip applicator. I’ve never heard of it before. Thanks for the suggestion and thanks for watching!!!
Wargamer here. Titebond is awesome and I use it on most things. I use Elmers all-purpose glue when I want a bond that is more flexible. Many people don't know that school glue is water soluble after its dried.
Regarding glues: I have always used yellow PVA glue (first, Elmer's Carpenter's glue, now Titebond) for wood/card stock structures, and I prefer it. I use a toothpick to apply the glue and to smear it along the gluing surface. Elmer's School Glue is indeed watered down - I think about 80% glue, 20% water. I use this as the base for gluing scenery materials in place - it's cheaper and it spreads easier and dries a little slower. Finally, I always use canopy glue to cement acetate to plastic window frames (again using a toothpick to dab on the glue.) It dries very clear, so any excess glue is hardly noticeable.
@@JasonJensenTrains Forgot to mention: Inevitably, some excess glue will seep out of a joint. Wait about 30 - 60 seconds for the glue to gel, then scrape it off with the tip of a #11 blade, or with the flat of a #5 blade. The glue will come away cleanly. (Obviously, if it is convenient, you can sand away any hardened glue, just as you would for white glue.)
@@JasonJensenTrains Thanks very much for replying Jason to my comment. That's the great part about the hobby sharing ideas and learning new ideas from other people to improve our Channel's so l have like and subscribe to your channel too .Stay safe DD.
Hahaha, you need a press agent. Tight bond, loved it when I built furniture. It’s good for major structure but everything else I prefer plain old white glue. When tight bond dries it is much harder to remove or clean up. I think you figured it out. Great build. You are so much into detail and all the visual effects that I’m telling you again, you’ve got to try some lighting. It brings a whole new dimension to the scene. I really think once you try it on a few pieces you will start using it more and more.
Classic Jensen thinking on his feet for that American Flag, Appreciate responses but not necessary buddy. I just appreciate your channel In the great work you do
This was a very cool build, I am building more N scale wood kits because of your channel. Being a subscriber I have learned to think out of the box, your channel promotes motivation, for me it was a factor in getting an article published in Model Railroader in January issue. now I have another article they want to publish. So thanks Jason., sometimes that is all you need. The big M
WOW! Thank you so much Will!!! I really appreciate hearing that! It makes it all worth while! I appreciate your support so much. Happy modeling buddy!!! 👍
Fab video and as per usual with your videos I have learned another technique to try. Since I'm in the province of Ontario I use LePage's glues. Their yellow carpenter glue are good for a freeze thaw cycle or two.....leave out in the garage overnight and it freezes. The yellow glue colour is to match up with bare wood and blend in and can be sanded. I do use LePage's white glue for modeling . Good modeling please keep it up!
Yet another excellent build Jason! I've adopted Murky Brown and Shadow Gray and love the results. As for Titbond, I use it only for my woodworking projects. I use Elmers and Aillen's Tacky for kit building.
I'm a woodworker and I use Titebond on all projects. Glad to see you have that in your arsenal! It dries fast but the bond is very strong. Great job on these builds Jason!!
Jason, yet another great build video. Thank you for sharing. In Australia, we have different glues to you in the U.S., so it is hard to comment, but I think I have overall 12 different glues that I use, depending upon what needs to be glued to what. We have straight PVA, and then cross-linked PVA, so I think these are like your White ELmers (Straight PVA), and the Cross-linked is the Carpenter's type glue. Cheers, and stay safe. Michael
I use all manner of glues. Quite a bit of pva (which I think is like Elmer's) and cheap and good quality wood glue. A favourite of mine is Roket (not a misspelling) card glue. It's not cheap, but it is good. And superglue and polystyrene cement. I'd be quicker listing what I don't use! - I've just realised
Great build on those kits. I've used Titebond for wood projects for years. In my old age, I'm a bit sloppy for it in small tight spaces 🤭. Guess I'm too old to change my white glue preference...lol Super job Jason!
Just a thought, I’d be interested in purchasing printable of signs in the future as pretty illiterate when it comes to computers. Could be a great passive income stream for you and would only really require you to do some upfront work that would continue making some money over the years …
Thoroughly enjoying your build of what is coming to be a fantastic layout Jason. Did you think of adding any interior lighting to the buildings? Just looking through the various builds and the layout overall it comes across as having a very unique look to it that would be enhanced by having lights within the buildings as well as having exterior lights above doors and the street lights, not to mention the lighthouse and the other waters-edge buildings. Keep up the good work.
Thank you so very much!!! I really appreciate it! No lights for me. I want my layout room to be as bright as possible so people visiting can see all the details. Thanks for watching!
The kits look fantastic. They are so detailed but the only thing I see missing are door handles. Have you experimented with anything and just not found anything to work or do you find them unnecessary? Love your work regardless, learning so much from your channel.
Thank you so much!!! I really appreciate it! I’ve been thinking about getting door handles 3D printed. Hopefully it will be a future video. Thanks for watching!
Plaid Sobo Premium Craft & Fabric Glue -- give this a try, it dries crystal clear like Elmers and it is tacky like Tight Bond. Best of both as far as I'm concerned.
Would like to know if they make kits for o gauge scale any name brands? I came across your video’s by just browsing and you have caught my attention and I must say that you do impeccable work and I have learned a great deal so far from watching your video’s and will continue to do so I am a model railroader and presently in the planning stage and gathering up as much information prior to building my own layout in the month’s ahead.It is nice to see work that pays much attention to detail and correct scale proportions for that is how I want to do my build’s staying true to prototypical modeling to all and any structures as well as the trains themselves so any information that you present in your video’s is very much appreciated and I thank you for that so keep up the great work that you do I will continue to watch your progress on such a fabulous layout that you have created many thanks. BE WELL!!!
Thank you so much for the kind words!!! I really appreciate it! Fosscalemodels.com offer some beautiful O scale kits and very impressive O scale detail parts. Hope this helps and happy modeling!
Hi, that Titebond II that You have there is for woodworking. It creates a very tite bond. The set time is like 15 minutes. You might try tite bond I. That will take a longer working time. Like 40 minutes. Can't help ya on the color after its dry. All three dry that way.
@@JasonJensenTrains don't be surprised if you lose alot of that jug. Those are mostly for woodworkers that do alot of gluing. You might have been better off buying a smaller container.
The funny thing is I already went through a gallon of white Elmers glue and instead of replacing it I bought a gallon of Titebond. Well, lol, I don’t care for the Titebond so I went back to the gallon of white Elmers glue. O well, lesson learned!
I thought you did a video that covered painting plastic rock but I cannot find it now, Did you do such a video? I would like to see how your technique for painting plastic rock differs from mine. Thank you for always shring your expertise.
I recently built a wood kit using tightbond, but had to switch to Elmer’s white glue to add the paper shingles to the roof. The tightbond was just drying too fast to work with.
titeboned original (red) is regular wood glue.titebond II is exterior and waterproof. i use titebond and gorilla wood glue out of glue dispenser bottles with a small metal tip
Jason, I recently tried gluing on my paper signs using matte medium. This worked very well: i was able to brush on the matte medium exactly where I wanted it, and any excess dried completely clear and flat.
Jason, I use Aileen's for most of my builds in wood. It also does a good job of gluing metal or plastic to wood for details. I use the yellow glue for bracing and glue all for signs. I have found that Testor's glue for clear parts works well for window glazing (some also use formula 560 for that). Each glue has its reason for use, as you are noting. I don't buy large quantities since I don't model as frequently as you. I once bought a big bottle of white glue and it dried out before I could use it all.
I use all different types of markers. I recommend buying 3 shades of grey and 3 shades of brown (light, medium and dark). Thanks for watching, I always appreciate it!!! 👍
Great video! I have gone to Weldbond for building wood structures. Learned about it from another experienced YT modeler, dries clear if seepage. Haven't tried Tightbond but based on your comment about drying yellow won't try it. Granted, I'm sure its fine but takes a little more finesse to avoid any issues of it seeping out. What brand are the markers you used for shingles? Like the look.
Just a thought, I’d be interested in purchasing printable of signs in the future as pretty illiterate when it comes to computers. Could be a great passive income stream for you and would only really require you to do some upfront work that would continue making some money over the years …
Buddy it's not a ruuf ! It's called a roof ! Please just say it one time ! ROOF. Love what your doing man ! It's really quit amazing ! I'd love to have that in my basement ! You rock ! Keep it coming ! 👍👍👍
LOL!!! Thank you so much Robert! I truly appreciate it! I love working on those ruufs! Thanks for watching buddy! 👍
Wow! Your patience certainly paid off! I have a roll of shingle paper, unused in my supply drawer. The detailed instructions have inspired me. Thanks for a great video and for sharing your experiences and techniques.
Jason, I use a lot of the TiteBond glue, the green label, for working on full size boats and love it. I think the only difference is the green label is water proof.
It is very durable, and doing a stress test the wood will break before the glue joint.
Great videos, Jason. Keep them coming
All kinds of great Jason tips in this one. Thanks!
Thank you so much Greg!!! And thank you for watching! 👍
Great build, you are amazing
Thank you so very much Wynora!!! I truly appreciate it!
I use both, for scenery I use whit glue. I build mostly in styrene so my weapon of choice is Plasteuct plastic weld! For wood I will use titebond. I still use good old testors cement, airplane glue! They all have their place! I love tacky glue, and use that a lot! Love your videos!
It’s great to have many different glues on hand. Thanks so much for watching!!! 👍
That was great Jason! I enjoyed all the tips and details! I forgot about sanding the back of signs before cutting them out. Thanks for trying the Titebond because it convinced me to stick with the white glue. I’m slow and messy so a quick drying glue is not for me. The buildings came out great, I loved all three! I’m always amazed at how fast you work with such precision. Thanks again!
Thank you so much Judy!!! Always great to hear from you! I just ordered a gallon of white Elmers glue today, lol. Thanks for watching!
Hello Jason, how jealous I am ! because with the cost of transport and customs it is difficult to subscribe to the "Kit of the month" Ten days ago I received my order from Rusty Rail, everything is perfect and I had two good surprises , first he sent me a set of barrels for free and in addition gave me a rebate of 10 dollars on transport. Thank you Jason for pointing out these great companies! Thank you again and take care of yourself and yours.
WOW! That’s great! Have fun painting your castings! Thanks for watching Michael! I really appreciate it!!! 👍
It's funny what you do in small scale I do in real scale ! You are the smarter man ! 👍
Lol! Thanks for watching!!! 👍
beer and tunes great combination
Hey Jason, great video. With 31,000+ subscribers if even if 1% left a comment, it would be a pretty daunting task to reply to them all. Thanks for the great ideas and the detail.
Thank you so much John!!! I truly appreciate it! 👍
Looks so good. Love the weathering. As always.
Thank you so much!!! I always appreciate it! 👍
Jason, I have tried Titebond Original, Interior Use, glue and had great luck with it. One nice thing is if you want to move a piece, the glue is water soluble and you can apply a little water at the joint with a paint brush. After a short time you can remove the piece, and reapply it where you want it. Another great build, as usual. Thanks again for sharing it.
Thank you so much for the awesome tip Tom! I really appreciate it and thanks for watching!!! 👍
Great build as usual, it's really impressive how easy you make everything look to assemble, and your paint skills are over the top. Regular Titebond sets more like Elmers,, Titebond 2 sets quicker and is water resistant and not really needed for the models and Titebond 3 is water proof. Haven't tried it with Titebond glues but I know if you need to remove something with Elmer's you can apply a little heat with iron and it will lift off. Keep up great work Jason, videos are awesome. Also as a side note, you can add about 40% water to Titebond glue and not affect strength of it and slows down dry times.
Thank you so much Ken!!! And thanks for sharing the great tip on adding water! Thanks! 👍
Hi Jason. Always exciting to watch you build. Your buildings look fantastic. Greetings Tino
Thank you so much!!! Always great to hear from you! 👍
Great video Jason. We appreciate it.
Nice! Love the long videos above 30 minutes!!! Thanks !
Thank you so much for watching!!! 👍
Hi Jason, I totally feed off your passion for modeling. I'm doing highly detailed paper or card modeling and found that for me, the perfect glue is Aleen's.
Thank you so much Norm!!! I really appreciate hearing that! I love using Aleen’s glue 👍
I have dozens of glue choices, but I use Titebond most often for my wooden models. The right amount of squeeze-out is usually zero anyway, but the yellow and fast-set can be issues. My models are usually displayed in new condition, unlike your beautifully antiqued structures. Everything was new once! I’m currently working on an old (2010) model of the 1902 school from the town of Skykomish, WA. The model is going to be displayed with its roof removed after 12 years in the museum with the roof on. Great fun to let visitors see what’s inside! Come up to Skykomish for a visit.
I learn so much from your builds! Thank you for the excellent videos.
Sounds like you also have a passion for structure building. That’s awesome! Thanks for watching! Maybe some day I will see your models! 👍
Jason..
Not only are you a talented modeler...
You're also a wonderful teacher explaining how you do different techniques.
Have a Jesus filled day everyone
Greg in Michigan
Thank you so much Greg!!! I truly appreciate it! 👍
Jason, I'm a new subscriber. I really love the channel and your structures. I have been building for over 60 years and have learned a lot from these videos. I'm still undecided about the sponge painting though.
Thank you so much Roger!!! I truly appreciate it! The sponge painting makes practice. I find if you grab the sponge with tweezers instead of your fingers, it ends up looking better (not so heavy handed). Thanks for watching, I really appreciate it!!!
Another awesome build Jason!! Glad to see you've switch to yellow carpenter's glue, it's a more permanent and stronger bond than white glue. Having to be extra careful with excess glue is a minor problem. But it's also a good idea to have both glues on hand, where one (white glue in the case of gluing signs onto structures) works better than the other.
One tip for doing your trim, where you are trying to get the angles to match the roof. Prior to starting construction, take the structure parts that make up the pitched roof (angled parts) and trace the outside of the parts on a piece of paper or scrap cardstock. This will provide an accurate template for cutting the angles onto the wood trim later on.
Thanks for sharing another great build. You make it look easy and I find your youthful enthusiasm for what you do, refreshing!
Thank you for the great suggestion! I really appreciate it!!! I will be trying that. Thanks for watching!!! 👍
Coming along nicely. Great job on paint.
What WHJeffB says is spot on. I love the first build with the two structures. I wish FosScale had more O scale kits like this. (They only have a few) I continue to enjoy your builds. Thank you.
Thank you so much Dennis!!!
Titebond glue bonds stronger then the white glue. Beware if you make a mistake. I hate the yellow residue when it dries. Great finish model.
Thank you Chris!!!
I too use Titebond II for wood to wood bonds. Since I also build furniture and cabinets It is always on hand and I like the quick dry time. Thanks for another great video!
Thank you so much for watching David!!! 👍
Jason, I think your take on Titebond and white glue both are a perfect description. Well done. Great looking models this month. Cheers Rob
Thank you so much Rob!!! I always appreciate it! 👍
Nice to see the shingles, I much prefer them to the tar paper for a roof
Thank you so much!!!
Absolutely amazing work. Thank you for sharing your talent.
Thank you so much Doug and thanks for watching!!!
i really like the missing shingles a nice personnal touch
I like adding character to a structure and telling stories in a scene. Always great to hear from you! 👍
Nice work Jason always a pleasure to watch you create thing's ! I like the dormers on the "ruuf" lol 👍👍👍 keep them coming !
Thank you so much Robert!!! I love working on those rugs, lol ! Thanks for watching!!! 👍
You are a good artist!
Thank you so much!!!
Well it looks like you have enough glue to last you awhile but I have found Weldbond to be a fantastic PVA glue. Like Glenn mentioned earlier, I use a plastic squeeze bottle with a 14ga. metal applicator tip for dispensing the Weldbond that I thin with water. Straight out of the bottle it has a quick set time like the Titebond (but dries clear). Thinning increases the working time and ease of flow from the dispenser. Great video and modeling as always!
Thank you so much!!! I really appreciate it! I need to find a metal tip applicator. I’ve never heard of it before. Thanks for the suggestion and thanks for watching!!!
The detail you add to your kits is incredible! The buildings look worn and used, very nice.
Thank you so much!!! And thanks for watching!
Wargamer here. Titebond is awesome and I use it on most things. I use Elmers all-purpose glue when I want a bond that is more flexible.
Many people don't know that school glue is water soluble after its dried.
Regarding glues: I have always used yellow PVA glue (first, Elmer's Carpenter's glue, now Titebond) for wood/card stock structures, and I prefer it. I use a toothpick to apply the glue and to smear it along the gluing surface. Elmer's School Glue is indeed watered down - I think about 80% glue, 20% water. I use this as the base for gluing scenery materials in place - it's cheaper and it spreads easier and dries a little slower. Finally, I always use canopy glue to cement acetate to plastic window frames (again using a toothpick to dab on the glue.) It dries very clear, so any excess glue is hardly noticeable.
Thanks for sharing! I’ll try using a toothpick. Happy modeling!!! 👍
@@JasonJensenTrains Forgot to mention: Inevitably, some excess glue will seep out of a joint. Wait about 30 - 60 seconds for the glue to gel, then scrape it off with the tip of a #11 blade, or with the flat of a #5 blade. The glue will come away cleanly. (Obviously, if it is convenient, you can sand away any hardened glue, just as you would for white glue.)
Wow nicely put together and lots going on thanks for sharing DD.
Thank you so much!!! I really appreciate it!
@@JasonJensenTrains Thanks very much for replying Jason to my comment. That's the great part about the hobby sharing ideas and learning new ideas from other people to improve our Channel's so l have like and subscribe to your channel too .Stay safe DD.
Hahaha, you need a press agent.
Tight bond, loved it when I built furniture. It’s good for major structure but everything else I prefer plain old white glue. When tight bond dries it is much harder to remove or clean up. I think you figured it out.
Great build.
You are so much into detail and all the visual effects that I’m telling you again, you’ve got to try some lighting. It brings a whole new dimension to the scene. I really think once you try it on a few pieces you will start using it more and more.
You'll get a longer working time with titebond 3, nice model always enjoy your builds.
Thank you so much Sammi!!! And thanks for the tip! 👍
I use the Titebond for wood. I use white glue for paper signs and roofing. i find the white glue dilutes much better.
I totally agree with you! Thanks for watching!!! 👍
Keep meaning to ask if metal file is medium or fine teeth grade.
Two great beers of old. Unable to find now in Florida, lol🍺🍺🎶 Happy Modeling Jason✌️
Very nice. I like the new section of the layout.
Thank you so much, I really appreciate it!!! I’m having a lot of fun with it! Thanks for watching!
Classic Jensen thinking on his feet for that American Flag, Appreciate responses but not necessary buddy. I just appreciate your channel In the great work you do
Thank you so much Jeremy!!! Always appreciate hearing from you!
This was a very cool build, I am building more N scale wood kits because of your channel. Being a subscriber I have learned to think out of the box, your channel promotes motivation, for me it was a factor in getting an article published in Model Railroader in January issue. now I have another article they want to publish. So thanks Jason., sometimes that is all you need. The big M
WOW! Thank you so much Will!!! I really appreciate hearing that! It makes it all worth while! I appreciate your support so much. Happy modeling buddy!!! 👍
Fab video and as per usual with your videos I have learned another technique to try. Since I'm in the province of Ontario I use LePage's glues. Their yellow carpenter glue are good for a freeze thaw cycle or two.....leave out in the garage overnight and it freezes. The yellow glue colour is to match up with bare wood and blend in and can be sanded. I do use LePage's white glue for modeling . Good modeling please keep it up!
Thank you so much John!!! Thanks for watching and happy modeling!!!
Another excellent build along with explaining steps… I think in the early years of The Wiley’s build & podcast, Brett might of used Tite bond glue..
Thank you so much Ed!!! I think your right!
Makes you want to peak in the windows!
Yet another excellent build Jason! I've adopted Murky Brown and Shadow Gray and love the results. As for Titbond, I use it only for my woodworking projects. I use Elmers and Aillen's Tacky for kit building.
Thank you so much Jeff!!! I’m so glad you like those stains! Happy modeling!!!
I'm a woodworker and I use Titebond on all projects. Glad to see you have that in your arsenal! It dries fast but the bond is very strong. Great job on these builds Jason!!
Thank you so much and thank you for watching!!!
very good work you make it easier
My glue of choice is Titebond. I've used it a very long time. I still use the white glue on scenery though. Bob P.
Awesome! Thanks for watching Bob, I really appreciate it!!!
Jason, yet another great build video.
Thank you for sharing. In Australia, we have different glues to you in the U.S., so it is hard to comment, but I think I have overall 12 different glues that I use, depending upon what needs to be glued to what. We have straight PVA, and then cross-linked PVA, so I think these are like your White ELmers (Straight PVA), and the Cross-linked is the Carpenter's type glue.
Cheers, and stay safe. Michael
Thanks for sharing! It helps to have a wide variety of glue on hand. Thanks for watching Michael!!! I really appreciate it! 👍
Superb builds as always. Looking forward to seeing some more of your scenic techniques.
Thank you so much Kevin and thanks for watching!!! 👍
Perfect!!!
Thank you so much!!!
I use all manner of glues. Quite a bit of pva (which I think is like Elmer's) and cheap and good quality wood glue. A favourite of mine is Roket (not a misspelling) card glue. It's not cheap, but it is good. And superglue and polystyrene cement. I'd be quicker listing what I don't use! - I've just realised
Lol, you sound like a true modeler! Thanks for watching, I really appreciate it!!!
Great build on those kits. I've used Titebond for wood projects for years. In my old age, I'm a bit sloppy for it in small tight spaces 🤭. Guess I'm too old to change my white glue preference...lol
Super job Jason!
Thank you so much Craig!!! I always appreciate it! 👍
Just a thought, I’d be interested in purchasing printable of signs in the future as pretty illiterate when it comes to computers. Could be a great passive income stream for you and would only really require you to do some upfront work that would continue making some money over the years …
Its awesome work as well, Jason. I love this modelling madness!
Thank you so much Martin!!! I really appreciate it! 👍
@@JasonJensenTrains u are welcome, Jason!
Thoroughly enjoying your build of what is coming to be a fantastic layout Jason. Did you think of adding any interior lighting to the buildings? Just looking through the various builds and the layout overall it comes across as having a very unique look to it that would be enhanced by having lights within the buildings as well as having exterior lights above doors and the street lights, not to mention the lighthouse and the other waters-edge buildings. Keep up the good work.
Thank you so very much!!! I really appreciate it! No lights for me. I want my layout room to be as bright as possible so people visiting can see all the details. Thanks for watching!
The kits look fantastic. They are so detailed but the only thing I see missing are door handles. Have you experimented with anything and just not found anything to work or do you find them unnecessary? Love your work regardless, learning so much from your channel.
Thank you so much!!! I really appreciate it! I’ve been thinking about getting door handles 3D printed. Hopefully it will be a future video. Thanks for watching!
Nice buildings. I love the color combination. Greetings Urs
Thank you so very much Urs!!! Always great to hear from you!!! 👍
Great combo Jason. I am used to Titebond quickness especially during the Arizona summers 🤣,
Thank you so much!!! I lived in AZ for a few years. Super hot 🥵 Thanks for watching!!! 👍
Plaid Sobo Premium Craft & Fabric Glue -- give this a try, it dries crystal clear like Elmers and it is tacky like Tight Bond. Best of both as far as I'm concerned.
Thanks for the info! I’ll check it out! Thanks for watching!!!
I like that you paint the edges of your signs. I do that with the edges f y photo
It’s a great trick so it doesn’t look like paper. Thanks for watching Bob!!!
Would like to know if they make kits for o gauge scale any name brands? I came across your video’s by just browsing and you have caught my attention and I must say that you do impeccable work and I have learned a great deal so far from watching your video’s and will continue to do so I am a model railroader and presently in the planning stage and gathering up as much information prior to building my own layout in the month’s ahead.It is nice to see work that pays much attention to detail and correct scale proportions for that is how I want to do my build’s staying true to prototypical modeling to all and any structures as well as the trains themselves so any information that you present in your video’s is very much appreciated and I thank you for that so keep up the great work that you do I will continue to watch your progress on such a fabulous layout that you have created many thanks. BE WELL!!!
Thank you so much for the kind words!!! I really appreciate it! Fosscalemodels.com offer some beautiful O scale kits and very impressive O scale detail parts. Hope this helps and happy modeling!
Yes I can see them!
I use Tite Bond for everything. Ballast, wood cardboard.
I’m finding out that it does work for everything. 👍
Hi, that Titebond II that You have there is for woodworking. It creates a very tite bond. The set time is like 15 minutes. You might try tite bond I. That will take a longer working time. Like 40 minutes. Can't help ya on the color after its dry. All three dry that way.
I just bought a gallon of white Elmers glue. I’ll use the Titebond that I have for glueing braceing but that’s about it.
@@JasonJensenTrains don't be surprised if you lose alot of that jug. Those are mostly for woodworkers that do alot of gluing. You might have been better off buying a smaller container.
The funny thing is I already went through a gallon of white Elmers glue and instead of replacing it I bought a gallon of Titebond. Well, lol, I don’t care for the Titebond so I went back to the gallon of white Elmers glue. O well, lesson learned!
nice thanks man
Thanks for watching Joe!!! 👍
I thought you did a video that covered painting plastic rock but I cannot find it now, Did you do such a video? I would like to see how your technique for painting plastic rock differs from mine. Thank you for always shring your expertise.
Sorry, I never did a video on painting plastic rock. Thanks for watching! I appreciate it!
Sorry, of my photo backdrops after cutting of the sky. It makes a big difference. I use the color that's on the photo, not a black edge.
Cool! Happy modeling and thanks for watching!!!
I recently built a wood kit using tightbond, but had to switch to Elmer’s white glue to add the paper shingles to the roof. The tightbond was just drying too fast to work with.
I completely understand! Thanks for watching John!!!
Yay!!!
Thank you so much William!!!
@@JasonJensenTrains Jason, you are so welcome and call me GW or Bill, William is what my mom called me when I was in trouble, ha!
Mechanical pencils range in size diameters from 0.2mm to almost 6.0mm.
I have many sizes. I am a freelance artist ( my day job ). I love using them! Thanks for watching!!! 👍
Jason, I was wondering if you stained/painted the walls, using a oil based paint would you still get warping?.
Bob W.
I personally wouldn’t want to work with oils. I like the water based acrylic.
Thank you. I sure have learned a lot from your channel. I just finished my first F O S kit and it came out great thanks to you.
That’s exciting! Hope it was a fun build! 👍
titeboned original (red) is regular wood glue.titebond II is exterior and waterproof. i use titebond and gorilla wood glue out of glue dispenser bottles with a small metal tip
Thank you for letting me know. I really appreciate it! 👍
Jason, I recently tried gluing on my paper signs using matte medium. This worked very well: i was able to brush on the matte medium exactly where I wanted it, and any excess dried completely clear and flat.
That is an awesome suggestion! Thank you so much!!! I will definitely be trying that! Thanks for watching!!!
Jason, I use Aileen's for most of my builds in wood. It also does a good job of gluing metal or plastic to wood for details. I use the yellow glue for bracing and glue all for signs. I have found that Testor's glue for clear parts works well for window glazing (some also use formula 560 for that). Each glue has its reason for use, as you are noting. I don't buy large quantities since I don't model as frequently as you. I once bought a big bottle of white glue and it dried out before I could use it all.
Thank you so much for watching Ronald!!! I go through a lot of glue! Happy modeling! 👍
Thanks Jason was great and very neat kits. What brand of markers do you use for the roof shingles.?
Cesar
I use all different types of markers. I recommend buying 3 shades of grey and 3 shades of brown (light, medium and dark). Thanks for watching, I always appreciate it!!! 👍
Titebond tends to expand a bit, so it’s important to keep that in mind…
Thank you David! Good to know! Thanks for watching!!!
Great video! I have gone to Weldbond for building wood structures. Learned about it from another experienced YT modeler, dries clear if seepage. Haven't tried Tightbond but based on your comment about drying yellow won't try it. Granted, I'm sure its fine but takes a little more finesse to avoid any issues of it seeping out. What brand are the markers you used for shingles? Like the look.
Thank you so much!!! I recommend buying 3 shades of grey and 3 shades of brown ( light, medium and dark). Any brand will work! Thanks for watching!!!
Nice
Thank you so much!!! And thanks for watching! 👍
Np I love this channel
Are you going to build a park or green space in your layout
I don’t think so but anything is possible. Thanks for watching Brian, I really appreciate it!!!
I run N scale because I don't have room enough for HO....is it possible to "cut down" FOS kits and make them into N scale?
No, you would need to scratch build them. Thank you so much for watching, I really appreciate it!!!
Beautiful model. Do they come in O scale?
Thank you so much Eric!!! Fos scale models does offer some beautiful O scale kits and they are planning some for the future. Thanks for watching!!! 👍
Could you do an abandoned building? Just a thought.
That would be fun!!! Maybe some day!
I also don’t like or use titebond …. too “dry”
LarryDiehl
Just a thought, I’d be interested in purchasing printable of signs in the future as pretty illiterate when it comes to computers. Could be a great passive income stream for you and would only really require you to do some upfront work that would continue making some money over the years …