Hello Jake Great video! The explanation you give really gives me an idea of what you’re about to do, did and why. Truly enjoy your channel. You got the editing on point. I know what is is to hit rebar when drilling into concrete, and believe me I don’t envy you. I hope it gets smoother out there for you, Jake. Take care
Hi Jack tks for take time to show the blueprint of the job and take the time for explain a lot of what happens, great improvement at my point of view. If your drone saturated by high solar level you probably can add some filter on the lens . The excavation job is clearly A+ and the grade of the crushed stone is not so bad. What is the brand of the building kit ? .
Carpenters have names for all of the boards. King studs, Queen studs (Very rare, but they are in attics), Jack studs, Cripple studs, Shoes, Plates, Rafters, Joists, Girts, and Purlins are some of the many names that I have learned. And, just for fun, a carpenter builds carpents, which are 2-wheel carts drawn by a horse. Ted Benson is the guru of post and beam construction. He built a barn for This Old House and used it as a training exercise for carpentry students. He has a business in central New Hampshire producing kits and other types of self-build buildings.
Yeah! It's descending order from center in a roof for king, queen and jack posts. I think the location one is also affects what's called what. In a timber frame of which there is way more of the further east you go Girt is normal and since this is more or less a timber frame albeit without the fancy joints it tracks just fine. This far west the only thing we build similar is pole barns which are basically just a sheet metal tent and anything that's not a post or a truss is a purlin:-) Got me thinking tho, Cheeks, Hips and Eyebrows are all names for roof part off the top of my head.......
We're just following the specifications for the kit, They supplied the anchors which were screw type. Probably better this way for accuracy and also because it allowed us to make a couple changes. Good to see you here again:-)
Hey, hey you wacked me in the head with that 16 footer. Lol. I imagine they want as much height as they can get on the low side of the lean to. To me; a constant, equal pitch looks so much better. Work on them Jake. You know what looks good.
I didn't feel a thing! I can't really change the lean-to because the mold is cast so to speak with the kit being pre cut and all. It's going to be more of a pita to the roofer though beause it's mechanical lock standing seam and going from 4.5:12 to a 3:12 is almost too small to fold. I'll be interested to see how he does it. Maybe i'm over thinking it and it wads itself up there at the break.
@@dennisdubey2126 I’m not sure, it was an $11 eBay special. I just searched ‘men’s sun hat’ and when the one I was kind of looking for popped up, the one with the wider brim popped up as well. It was 11 bucks too and I’m glad I bought it because it fits over the ear defenders good enough to use that way for a while. Pretty sure if you searched ‘men’s wide brim sun hat’ on eBay that roughly the same selection would pop up
It is a Benedini B618. In pounds; 10k unit weight, 20k counterweight. 2200# max lift out to 37' radius decreasing to 1300# at 59' radius. 50' under hook height. runs on 220v single phase power drawing a max of 9 amps during erection which is hydraulically driven. (all crane controls are electric motors) 1 speed trolley, 2 speed slew, 3 speed winch. takes about 5 minutes to stand up from folded.
Should be a fun one, It's just so damp and humid here for so much of the year that it's really hard to keep it from molding and any sort of transparent or semi transparent finish on it will show mold right thru it. The other reason is that we are incredibly spoiled with primo quality douglas fir here that we pretty much need to do zero to that any special treatment that a certain wood needs just feels like a huge inconvenience. We went with cedar for the siding but honestly all the oldest surviving barns that are in the best shape in the area all are sided with untreated douglas fir. long term it weathers better than cedar does believe it or not. I'm still not sure how we are going to address the pine in the overhangs but i'm sure i'll come up with something.
@@ShredPile wow thanx for the info…learn something new everyday (I’ve been a pharmacist for 35 years , very little education about wood -excepting viagra conversations, of course)
Yeah what should be designed is rebar layout I've never understood why you can move the rebar in or out to avoid contact all around the damn concrete but it's ok let the framer spend two days drilling out the same rebar you do carefully installed. Provide the concrete contractor the call out
@@BWIL2515 you’re not wrong, the more I look at it though the more I think the concrete guy was conscious of it, but it wasn’t immediately apparent that the 6 inch wall didn’t start till it was an inch and a half further into the foundation and was actually an 8 inch wall. If the posts went flush on the outside of the foundation, the rebar wouldn’t have been in the way. It always seems like there’s at least one or two secret handshakes with a kit that don’t show up right away.
Let's see, My part is pretty much done and I think they are wrapping up rough in stuff. I'm waiting on hand and guard rail details before I can provide numbers for those. I'll be back for follow up stuff as it happens, that kind of job takes a long time to finish.
Was great watching you do that job, hope to see the final product - glad to see a home being built these days that has straight lines, flat roofs etc….our cookie cutter homes all look the same these days…look like bird houses….
The rebar problem comes with the architect and design crew. So, if you are an architect and you are reading this comment, get it right. Plan the rebar or use fiberglass rebar or use fiberglass reinforcement in the concrete. Every time the builder cuts through steel rebar it weakens the structure. If you have a reason to tell me why I am wrong, please reply.
It's not that big of a deal really Glen, we bought a kit and gave the foundation page to the concrete guy and told him to work his magic and he did, It's a gorgeous job. The rebar was completely elective, not required and frankly overkill. Wire mesh or fiber mesh would also have been fine. The one or two holes where I hit bar below the slab in the stem wall are redundant since one bar at the top is enough but we put two. It was just an unfortunate bullseye, thats all :-) Maybe if it was something more than a barn i wouldve made a stink but I actuall forgot all about it until I started back thru the footage.
is cutting thru the rebar compromising the structural integrity of the overall assembly? Why wouldn't the issue not be coordinated with BIM? Beautiful project but.....why the headache? No offense.
Nah, theres plenty of redundancy there and technically its an AG building so the whole foundation is owner preference anyway and it would be just as fine to build it on poured footers with a gravel floor. It was just unfortunate and a bit of work to get thru.
@@ShredPileit's a Barn ,not a sky scraper,plenty good .if you would have been in charge of the concrete it wouldn't have happened right!from what I've seen your work it's always been spot on! Thanks for the new build!
Always nice when the concrete guys get things right. Makes the builder's job that much easier.
so true!
"At this point in my career I'm qualified to eyeball a half inch". Nice one, I'll be using that one :)
Awesome:-)
Interesting project lots to learn for me .
For sure I'll be looking for the next episode. Thanks for spending your time for us
You got it. It starts picking up next week :-)
Now we get the global picture. Another fascinating project and so many pleasures to come.
A new adventure begins Jake! Good layout explanation! Those bits are not cheap! Good post!
No they weren't! thanks Robert:-)
Beautiful view you are having with this build. Take care Jake....
Wow, those holes were a long slog, nice job! Thanks for the video.
Yeah, that was a couple of hot days that i'm glad are behind me.
Hello Jake
Great video! The explanation you give really gives me an idea of what you’re about to do, did and why. Truly enjoy your channel.
You got the editing on point.
I know what is is to hit rebar when drilling into concrete, and believe me I don’t envy you.
I hope it gets smoother out there for you, Jake.
Take care
Thanks Joe, yeah, that was the pits :-)
Love it so much keep it up as always 💘
I like your three pencil set-up.
Lol, everybody showed up for work that day. Almost never happens :-)
Looks like an old cathedral, with flying buttresses.
Hi Jack tks for take time to show the blueprint of the job and take the time for explain a lot of what happens, great improvement at my point of view. If your drone saturated by high solar level you probably can add some filter on the lens . The excavation job is clearly A+ and the grade of the crushed stone is not so bad. What is the brand of the building kit ? .
My pleasure, I believe there's a setting in the drone app that will help with the light levels and I'll mess around with it next time I fly it
Carpenters have names for all of the boards. King studs, Queen studs (Very rare, but they are in attics), Jack studs, Cripple studs, Shoes, Plates, Rafters, Joists, Girts, and Purlins are some of the many names that I have learned.
And, just for fun, a carpenter builds carpents, which are 2-wheel carts drawn by a horse. Ted Benson is the guru of post and beam construction. He built a barn for This Old House and used it as a training exercise for carpentry students. He has a business in central New Hampshire producing kits and other types of self-build buildings.
Yeah! It's descending order from center in a roof for king, queen and jack posts. I think the location one is also affects what's called what. In a timber frame of which there is way more of the further east you go Girt is normal and since this is more or less a timber frame albeit without the fancy joints it tracks just fine. This far west the only thing we build similar is pole barns which are basically just a sheet metal tent and anything that's not a post or a truss is a purlin:-) Got me thinking tho, Cheeks, Hips and Eyebrows are all names for roof part off the top of my head.......
Thanks for the video. I like determination to detail where it matters. One question: Why the post foundation do not sink mounting metal before curing?
We're just following the specifications for the kit, They supplied the anchors which were screw type. Probably better this way for accuracy and also because it allowed us to make a couple changes. Good to see you here again:-)
Hey, hey you wacked me in the head with that 16 footer. Lol. I imagine they want as much height as they can get on the low side of the lean to. To me; a constant, equal pitch looks so much better. Work on them Jake. You know what looks good.
I didn't feel a thing! I can't really change the lean-to because the mold is cast so to speak with the kit being pre cut and all. It's going to be more of a pita to the roofer though beause it's mechanical lock standing seam and going from 4.5:12 to a 3:12 is almost too small to fold. I'll be interested to see how he does it. Maybe i'm over thinking it and it wads itself up there at the break.
I began watching this channel he was building a house, did he finish or just went to another project.
I began watching him building a house, Dr ID he ever finish.
I was just the carpenter on that job Larry. My parts done until i go back for handrails but i'll update when I do.
I like your hat. What brand is it?
@@dennisdubey2126 I’m not sure, it was an $11 eBay special. I just searched ‘men’s sun hat’ and when the one I was kind of looking for popped up, the one with the wider brim popped up as well. It was 11 bucks too and I’m glad I bought it because it fits over the ear defenders good enough to use that way for a while. Pretty sure if you searched ‘men’s wide brim sun hat’ on eBay that roughly the same selection would pop up
What is the make & model of the tower crane you are using?
It is a Benedini B618. In pounds; 10k unit weight, 20k counterweight. 2200# max lift out to 37' radius decreasing to 1300# at 59' radius. 50' under hook height. runs on 220v single phase power drawing a max of 9 amps during erection which is hydraulically driven. (all crane controls are electric motors) 1 speed trolley, 2 speed slew, 3 speed winch. takes about 5 minutes to stand up from folded.
Howdy…looks like a great series…sorry, but why exactly does white pine NOT work there? ( I know you’re in Oregon) thanx
Should be a fun one, It's just so damp and humid here for so much of the year that it's really hard to keep it from molding and any sort of transparent or semi transparent finish on it will show mold right thru it. The other reason is that we are incredibly spoiled with primo quality douglas fir here that we pretty much need to do zero to that any special treatment that a certain wood needs just feels like a huge inconvenience. We went with cedar for the siding but honestly all the oldest surviving barns that are in the best shape in the area all are sided with untreated douglas fir. long term it weathers better than cedar does believe it or not. I'm still not sure how we are going to address the pine in the overhangs but i'm sure i'll come up with something.
@@ShredPile wow thanx for the info…learn something new everyday
(I’ve been a pharmacist for 35 years , very little education about wood -excepting viagra conversations, of course)
Yeah what should be designed is rebar layout I've never understood why you can move the rebar in or out to avoid contact all around the damn concrete but it's ok let the framer spend two days drilling out the same rebar you do carefully installed. Provide the concrete contractor the call out
@@BWIL2515 you’re not wrong, the more I look at it though the more I think the concrete guy was conscious of it, but it wasn’t immediately apparent that the 6 inch wall didn’t start till it was an inch and a half further into the foundation and was actually an 8 inch wall. If the posts went flush on the outside of the foundation, the rebar wouldn’t have been in the way. It always seems like there’s at least one or two secret handshakes with a kit that don’t show up right away.
Mule deer?
We have black tails on the west side of the state here. All muleys over east though.
Jake - what happen to the other house you were working on? Last I saw you were installing windows? Project finished?
Let's see, My part is pretty much done and I think they are wrapping up rough in stuff. I'm waiting on hand and guard rail details before I can provide numbers for those. I'll be back for follow up stuff as it happens, that kind of job takes a long time to finish.
Was great watching you do that job, hope to see the final product - glad to see a home being built these days that has straight lines, flat roofs etc….our cookie cutter homes all look the same these days…look like bird houses….
The rebar problem comes with the architect and design crew. So, if you are an architect and you are reading this comment, get it right. Plan the rebar or use fiberglass rebar or use fiberglass reinforcement in the concrete. Every time the builder cuts through steel rebar it weakens the structure. If you have a reason to tell me why I am wrong, please reply.
It's not that big of a deal really Glen, we bought a kit and gave the foundation page to the concrete guy and told him to work his magic and he did, It's a gorgeous job. The rebar was completely elective, not required and frankly overkill. Wire mesh or fiber mesh would also have been fine. The one or two holes where I hit bar below the slab in the stem wall are redundant since one bar at the top is enough but we put two. It was just an unfortunate bullseye, thats all :-) Maybe if it was something more than a barn i wouldve made a stink but I actuall forgot all about it until I started back thru the footage.
is cutting thru the rebar compromising the structural integrity of the overall assembly? Why wouldn't the issue not be coordinated with BIM? Beautiful project but.....why the headache? No offense.
Nah, theres plenty of redundancy there and technically its an AG building so the whole foundation is owner preference anyway and it would be just as fine to build it on poured footers with a gravel floor. It was just unfortunate and a bit of work to get thru.
@@ShredPileit's a Barn ,not a sky scraper,plenty good .if you would have been in charge of the concrete it wouldn't have happened right!from what I've seen your work it's always been spot on! Thanks for the new build!
I began watching this channel he was building a house, did he finish or just went to another project.
Jake is waiting for the other trades to catch up, he still has work to complete, he plans additional episodes as work progresses.