Thanks so much for all the love on this tutorial! I appreciate that many of you have questions about this method. Unfortunately it isn't possible for me to answer each question with the full attention they deserve. I recorded myself drafting a bodice block recently and posted it as an update to this video. If you find this version too hard to follow or find questions arise that this version doesn't answer, maybe the new video will help: ruclips.net/video/zsED92D1qm4/видео.html
Thanks a million times! This is the first time I feel confident with a block I made. I have the Fashion Design by Helene Joseph Armstrong and have never really succeeded until now! Thank you. Please do you have a video on sleeves?
Thank for sharing this, can’t wait to try it!! I struggle so much with buying sewing patterns and the finished product never sits right because of my body type. Have you made a video that shows an example of how you use the bodice block or how you draft your patterns off of it? Thanks again
Hi! No specific reason other than that’s how I know to do it - I always construct my bodice this way and manipulate the dart if I need to move it to the bust. I make an incision in the shoulder dart (along one side) and another one exactly where I want the bust dart to be - I then pivot the shoulder dart closed and a new dart in the bust appears, meaning the complete dart width just gets moved into the bust area.
Hey, I have another problem with 12:09 : my point 32 is farther right than my point 29. I got pt. 29 by joining points 23 with the guideline from 28 with a 13 cm guideline, since that’s what my shoulder measurement is. If I square out from my point 31 by 7.4 cm, it passes point 29 by almost 1.5 cm. I have double checked that my point 25 (bust apex) is where it should be (by taking the apex to apex and dividing by two), and it all just doesn’t compute. If I connect point 30 with point 32, it’s already farther right than point 29, so I can’t draw my arm hole from either 29 or 32 because it would clip into the space of the dart, which is physically impossible to sew. That being said, my space between 23 and 27 is much wider than yours is in the video. But if you get point 27 from squaring up from 25, and I already double checked my point 25, what can I do???
I made another tutorial demonstrating the same method IRL rather than on my computer, if you’re still keen check it out here: ruclips.net/video/zsED92D1qm4/видео.html
I got lost quickly, but I still think this is very useful I am looking forward to a new lesson illustrated by applying to a size of your choice in the same way
Thanks for this tutorial !! I’m strugling with the front up darts… how do you determine the ligne between the point 23 and 29 ? (I re did the front 3 times and my armhole never corespond to the back that I did well)
Hi Coline! I‘m so sorry for my late response here - what you need to do is to take your shoulder measurement and find it on your ruler. Find point 23 and place the beginning of your ruler or tape measure there. With the shoulder measurement in mind, pivot until you cross the guideline you drew out from point 28. After that you continue to finish the shoulder with the dart measurement you have to calculate (explained at 11:05) I hope that helps somewhat!
@@ThrillsandStitches Hi- I'm having trouble here too. The shoulder minus the dart ends up way too small. Are we supposed to add the dart calculation to the shoulder length when drawing the line from pt 23? I'm not sure what you mean by having the shoulder measurement "in mind." btw- I really love your vids and the amazing cute stuff you make. EDIT: Nevermind! I guess it should have been obvious to add the dart width to the shoulder measurement for the front bodice. I did so and it turned out perfect. Thanks again for your videos. 🥰
Hey, I’m kinda confused at what goes on at 6:16 . She says to use the armscye measurement, but mine is literally the same as my neck to waist measurement. She halves it, right? With the extra length she says to add to the armscye, it ends up being longer than my center back, so I obviously cant use that. This measurement isn’t on the chart, so I’m wondering what it is that she did. Please help! I need to figure this out soon for a project I’m making for someone else.
@ThrillsandStitches I'm still very confused by point 11. I can't get it to work. I've slowed the video down and gone over it several times. So, you take your nape to armscye measurement, ÷5 then subtract 0.5? I don't see how you know what angle your line needs to be from point 10. 😢
Hi, thank you for sharing this video. I've attempted to follow this video however, it seems that my waist circumference has shrunk. Could this be due to adding the darts? Might need to redo it again with 1/2 the waist in addition to the dart distance - I also had a similar problem with the front bodice shoulder dart however, I managed to realise while I was drafting it.
Hi Jemma, thanks for watching and trying the tutorial :) Hm that is curious. I just followed the tutorial myself again (needed a new sloper anyways) to see if I run into the same issues. If you follow the dart calculation correctly, you should end up with the right waist circumference in the end: bust circumference minus waist circumference - divide the result by 2 (to get the dart amounts for 1/2 of your body) and divy that up in 3 spots - front dart, side seam, and back dart. If you then also measure correctly (I know that can sometimes be a problem) then you should be good! As we are only working with the difference of your bust to your waist, you shouldn't have to add anything to your waist to get the correct outcome in the end (also that wouldn't be possible because you don't know how much to account for the darts before doing the calculation). That's a long-winded answer to something we can't proof - maybe try it again to see if the result is different :) I hope it works out this time!
I would love to understand your tutorial completely, but you are talking so fast that it is difficult to follow your instructions. I look it over and over again, but it is still difficult to follow when the sewing-words is not my daily language.😢
Thanks so much for all the love on this tutorial! I appreciate that many of you have questions about this method. Unfortunately it isn't possible for me to answer each question with the full attention they deserve. I recorded myself drafting a bodice block recently and posted it as an update to this video. If you find this version too hard to follow or find questions arise that this version doesn't answer, maybe the new video will help: ruclips.net/video/zsED92D1qm4/видео.html
This is one of the best tutorials I have come across as a beginner. Thanks so much Thrills & Stitches for this brilliant guide
Thank you so much! I appreciate it 🙏
Love how you have taken the vertical measurements yourself. It's such a practical approach.
Thank you! ☺️
This is the best, and only explanation of the block I have seen. Thank you so much!!!!
Thank you, I‘m glad it helped! ☺️
Thank you. The video is very fast, but very well illustrated.
Thanks, hope it’s helpful!
Thanks a million times! This is the first time I feel confident with a block I made. I have the Fashion Design by Helene Joseph Armstrong and have never really succeeded until now! Thank you. Please do you have a video on sleeves?
Thank you for watching, I am glad it is useful for you ☺️ I don’t have a video on sleeves but I‘ll keep it in mind for a future video!
This will be very useful, thank you 👍🏻👍🏻
I'm glad to hear it! Let me know if you give it a try :)
Very nice and clear!
Thank you!
Thank for sharing this, can’t wait to try it!! I struggle so much with buying sewing patterns and the finished product never sits right because of my body type. Have you made a video that shows an example of how you use the bodice block or how you draft your patterns off of it? Thanks again
Thank you Sarah! Check out my more recent videos - I use my bodice block regularly and show how I alter it to achieve different looks ☺️
Can you explain why you use a shoulder dart instead of a bust dart? Thank you!
Hi! No specific reason other than that’s how I know to do it - I always construct my bodice this way and manipulate the dart if I need to move it to the bust. I make an incision in the shoulder dart (along one side) and another one exactly where I want the bust dart to be - I then pivot the shoulder dart closed and a new dart in the bust appears, meaning the complete dart width just gets moved into the bust area.
Where did you get the calculation of the front dart?
It’s a mix of what the In The Folds blog suggests and my own experience/learnings
@@ThrillsandStitches that's awesome! thank you for sharing! :)
Hey, I have another problem with 12:09 : my point 32 is farther right than my point 29. I got pt. 29 by joining points 23 with the guideline from 28 with a 13 cm guideline, since that’s what my shoulder measurement is. If I square out from my point 31 by 7.4 cm, it passes point 29 by almost 1.5 cm. I have double checked that my point 25 (bust apex) is where it should be (by taking the apex to apex and dividing by two), and it all just doesn’t compute. If I connect point 30 with point 32, it’s already farther right than point 29, so I can’t draw my arm hole from either 29 or 32 because it would clip into the space of the dart, which is physically impossible to sew.
That being said, my space between 23 and 27 is much wider than yours is in the video. But if you get point 27 from squaring up from 25, and I already double checked my point 25, what can I do???
I made another tutorial demonstrating the same method IRL rather than on my computer, if you’re still keen check it out here: ruclips.net/video/zsED92D1qm4/видео.html
I got lost quickly, but I still think this is very useful
I am looking forward to a new lesson illustrated by applying to a size of your choice in the same way
Thank you so much! It’s on my to-do list to re-record this video and I will try to include some new things like dart migration as well 🙏
Would this bodice block be the same for both woven and knit/stretch?
Yes! The fitting process might change depending on whether the garment is supposed to be loose or tight fitting, but the bodice stays the same.
Please what is the name of the app you are using to construct it?
I used Canva to illustrate the process, it’s not a pattern drafting tool though.
Thanks for this tutorial !! I’m strugling with the front up darts… how do you determine the ligne between the point 23 and 29 ? (I re did the front 3 times and my armhole never corespond to the back that I did well)
Hi Coline! I‘m so sorry for my late response here - what you need to do is to take your shoulder measurement and find it on your ruler. Find point 23 and place the beginning of your ruler or tape measure there. With the shoulder measurement in mind, pivot until you cross the guideline you drew out from point 28.
After that you continue to finish the shoulder with the dart measurement you have to calculate (explained at 11:05)
I hope that helps somewhat!
@@ThrillsandStitches Hi- I'm having trouble here too. The shoulder minus the dart ends up way too small. Are we supposed to add the dart calculation to the shoulder length when drawing the line from pt 23? I'm not sure what you mean by having the shoulder measurement "in mind." btw- I really love your vids and the amazing cute stuff you make.
EDIT: Nevermind! I guess it should have been obvious to add the dart width to the shoulder measurement for the front bodice. I did so and it turned out perfect. Thanks again for your videos. 🥰
@@magicmole hi, I'm glad you figured it out and it worked! :) happy sewing xx
@@magicmole Your answer solved my problem there! Thanks a lot :)
Thank you so much! This is so helpful!
Glad it was helpful!
I’m so glad I found you! Thank you for sharing.
Glad it helps 🙏
Hey may I please ask, at 11-12min what if my burst circumference is 82
I am not sure what you mean by this, but as long as your waist is smaller than your bust this should work as shown
Hey, I’m kinda confused at what goes on at 6:16 . She says to use the armscye measurement, but mine is literally the same as my neck to waist measurement. She halves it, right? With the extra length she says to add to the armscye, it ends up being longer than my center back, so I obviously cant use that. This measurement isn’t on the chart, so I’m wondering what it is that she did. Please help! I need to figure this out soon for a project I’m making for someone else.
Or is this maybe the measurement for the nape of the neck to the armscye?
Yep that’s it. Okay. Crisis averted and problem solved.
Glad to hear it!
@ThrillsandStitches I'm still very confused by point 11. I can't get it to work. I've slowed the video down and gone over it several times. So, you take your nape to armscye measurement, ÷5 then subtract 0.5? I don't see how you know what angle your line needs to be from point 10. 😢
Hi. Do you have an illustrated step by step? I guess i could follow and do one myself!😮😮 3:16
Check out this version of the tutorial: Updated DIY Bodice Block Tutorial |
ruclips.net/video/zsED92D1qm4/видео.html
To measure the back width, is it from side seam to side seam?
It’s a little set in from where your side seam would be - when you look at your back the distance between armpit and armpit should be it!
Hi, thank you for sharing this video. I've attempted to follow this video however, it seems that my waist circumference has shrunk. Could this be due to adding the darts? Might need to redo it again with 1/2 the waist in addition to the dart distance - I also had a similar problem with the front bodice shoulder dart however, I managed to realise while I was drafting it.
Hi Jemma, thanks for watching and trying the tutorial :) Hm that is curious. I just followed the tutorial myself again (needed a new sloper anyways) to see if I run into the same issues.
If you follow the dart calculation correctly, you should end up with the right waist circumference in the end: bust circumference minus waist circumference - divide the result by 2 (to get the dart amounts for 1/2 of your body) and divy that up in 3 spots - front dart, side seam, and back dart. If you then also measure correctly (I know that can sometimes be a problem) then you should be good!
As we are only working with the difference of your bust to your waist, you shouldn't have to add anything to your waist to get the correct outcome in the end (also that wouldn't be possible because you don't know how much to account for the darts before doing the calculation).
That's a long-winded answer to something we can't proof - maybe try it again to see if the result is different :) I hope it works out this time!
@@ThrillsandStitches Thanks Elisa, will definitely give it another go!
Great! 😊
Thank you! It's like painting by numbers, but different :)
how long is the bust line? is it the circumference
It's half your bust circumference + 10 cm (distance on the grid between your front and back)
What does the distance between front and back mean?
Thank you!!!
Hope it was useful ☺️🙌
Thank you 👍🙏
Hope it helped!
awesomeee
Thank you ☺️
Great.. 😊
Thanks 😊
@@ThrillsandStitches welcome.. waiting for the foot pedal vids.. haha. Have a nuce day.😊
Sorry, but totally confused. At timestamp 6:20 you mention the "arm side measurement". I did not see you taking any "arm side measurement" (?).
It’s armscye, as shown in the measurement taking section from 02:10
🙏♥️👍
🥰
Sounded easy... Until I tried... Lol
Oh haha, sorry to hear that! I might do another version of this soon
I would love to understand your tutorial completely, but you are talking so fast that it is difficult to follow your instructions. I look it over and over again, but it is still difficult to follow when the sewing-words is not my daily language.😢
Sorry for that! There is a second version of this tutorial on my channel now - maybe it is easier to follow! ruclips.net/video/zsED92D1qm4/видео.html