I recently bought a 1851 navy in 44 cal just to try it out. As you explained I tried to debur the parts. I was having cap jambing problems and worked on the hammer slot and set the number 10 caps by pushing hard with thumb and with hammer. Worked great now im in process of working the sight to lower point of impact. Before it was hitting pretty good at 75 yards. Im getting there. Just wanted to ler you know I wouldnt of had a clue without your videos. I really enjoy watching all of them most multiple times. Thanks
I had a hard time finding the series in order but just wanted to stop by and say, THANKs! Love my ol’ war horse so much more now. I worked real hard at slowly adding ‘patina’ but it was worth the wait .. watching as balls went down range! I keep 0000 steel in my kit now! 😊👍
Thanks Blackie. I have a Pietta 1851 Navy and 1860 Army I have been considering "antiquing". I may try your least intrusive method as it would appear to yield the most honest results.
“You’re not going to be able to fake it” 😂🤣 I bet half the audience just left. Lmao Great video by the way. Thanks for posting this. I was really curious how to make one look like this after seeing another one of YOUR videos! Lol 👍🏻
Thank you for your videos on antiquing your revolver. Used them step by step to do my 1847 Uberti Colt Walker. Came out beautiful, just waiting on my plum brown to help with the patina.
I disassemble the entire revolver. I wash all the parts with hot soapy water and rinse and dry. With protected hands ( thin automotive latex or nitrate gloves) I rub the parts with a cloth soaked in a light mixture of Muriatic Acid. This instantly removes the bluing leaving a grey surface on the projecting parts and surfaces. Wash the parts off in clear water to stop the process. Repeat this until you get the results you are looking for. To remove all the finish every where on the revolver you just submerge the parts in the solution but don't leave them in solution very long as it will etch the metal. Browning can be performed after all the parts have been dried and before any oil is applied.
so basic patina forcing onto it great series haven't bought one yet my local store said it's hard to find a navy right now I like the looks of the Navy better or 58 Remington stay safe brother
When I saw how you had done your 1858, I wanted to do mine that way. So I disassembled my 1858, put all the parts in the biggest glass container I could find and poured in the vinegar. In 1 1/2 hours all bluing was gone. Took it out of the dish, rinsed it off with hot water, dried it and buffed it out with 0000 steel wool and put a light coat of oil on it. The more I shoot it and clean it, the better the metal looks. BTW As a side note everyone, DO NOT use your wife's best casserole dish to do this. She still mumbles under her breath and I get "The Eye" every time she goes to use it. lol Can't wait for part II.
I use choke tube anti-seize lube ( high temp grease lube mixed with graphite and aluminum) for the nipples. It's an equivalent to automotive anti-seize compound used for spark plugs and such where high temps can bond two metal surfaces together causing stripping upon removal or worse snapping the spark plug off while torquing it.
Blackie, I have an Armi San Paolo that I just managed to repair to the point where it works like it should with just a tiny bit of cylinder wiggle. What I want to know is should I re blue it? It is still in "the white" I think y'all call it. It has been fired so much that the cam on the hammer wore off. I am not particularly fond of the white look and would like for it to be darker. Can I blue it without screwing it up?
I found a way of antiquing revolvers. If its blued set it in metal rescue rust remover for 10-16 hours then revolver use air duster and a rag to dry off then use scotch bright pad to lightly brush certain spots and then spray dry coat rust preventer. That's it.
Hello Blackie , I have an 1860 Army that you have helped me with in the past. The hammer spring on it is VERY stiff. I've watched other videos on how to lighten the feel , tension or what ever you call it. By sanding the spring on a belt sander and sanding the spring sideways not lengthwise and only in the middle of the spring. How do I know when I've sanded enough ?
This process is used also among guitar players who want to "Relic" their instruments . There are many ways to do it , also with "Ferric Chloryde" among other methods . If you're interested with various technics , check up on youtube at "How to age guitar harware, metal parts " ... Though, i would stay with vinegar , as it's not toxic to breathe , and the most ecological way to do it .
anybody gets around any of my guns with steel wool will get brained with an ax handle. My guns get shot a lot and get cleaned a l;ot they do pick up some holster marks but it is just honest working gun marks.
Can you tell me where I might buy a replacement Navy Frame. I seldom shoot at 70. I rather like to go to Wild West shows, and just stand around (contimplating the frailities of the human race). This is somewhat easy to do in Okla.
Well, crap! You didn't finish the video. You were explaining what you did and how yours would look when that damn cat intervened and interrupted the video and you never finished.
Antiquing a firearm? Why? Over time the bluing will wear, accelerating the process increases the chance for rust. Definite waste of a good firearm, and time.
haha yes it can seem to be..usually i leave a new gun as is..till it wears bad or something happens to need a reblue..but ya gotta admit..the ]old warhorse look is very fetching
Why? I have some firearms that are from 70 to 100 years old and they do not look like antiques. These rifles were used every year in the Upper Michigan deer woods but were given reasonable care by my Father and myself. Given my experience with firearms I would have to live to be 200 to 300 years old or more for mine to develop and honest, antique look.
Развлечения
I recently bought a 1851 navy in 44 cal just to try it out. As you explained I tried to debur the parts. I was having cap jambing problems and worked on the hammer slot and set the number 10 caps by pushing hard with thumb and with hammer. Worked great now im in process of working the sight to lower point of impact. Before it was hitting pretty good at 75 yards. Im getting there. Just wanted to ler you know I wouldnt of had a clue without your videos. I really enjoy watching all of them most multiple times.
Thanks
I had a hard time finding the series in order but just wanted to stop by and say, THANKs! Love my ol’ war horse so much more now. I worked real hard at slowly adding ‘patina’ but it was worth the wait .. watching as balls went down range! I keep 0000 steel in my kit now! 😊👍
Well Done !!! I've followed this instructional video for finishing my percussion revolver. Works like a charm (fun too). Thanks
Thanks Blackie. I have a Pietta 1851 Navy and 1860 Army I have been considering "antiquing". I may try your least intrusive method as it would appear to yield the most honest results.
“You’re not going to be able to fake it”
😂🤣 I bet half the audience just left. Lmao
Great video by the way. Thanks for posting this. I was really curious how to make one look like this after seeing another one of YOUR videos! Lol 👍🏻
Thank you for your videos on antiquing your revolver. Used them step by step to do my 1847 Uberti Colt Walker. Came out beautiful, just waiting on my plum brown to help with the patina.
glad to be of help..safe journeys to you
I disassemble the entire revolver. I wash all the parts with hot soapy water and rinse and dry. With protected hands ( thin automotive latex or nitrate gloves) I rub the parts with a cloth soaked in a light mixture of Muriatic Acid. This instantly removes the bluing leaving a grey surface on the projecting parts and surfaces. Wash the parts off in clear water to stop the process. Repeat this until you get the results you are looking for. To remove all the finish every where on the revolver you just submerge the parts in the solution but don't leave them in solution very long as it will etch the metal. Browning can be performed after all the parts have been dried and before any oil is applied.
Would be cool to chat with you and shoot at your land one afternoon. Sure you have many campfire stories to tell. Always nice to be in the woods.
so basic patina forcing onto it great series haven't bought one yet my local store said it's hard to find a navy right now I like the looks of the Navy better or 58 Remington stay safe brother
When I saw how you had done your 1858, I wanted to do mine that way. So I disassembled my 1858, put all the parts in the biggest glass container I could find and poured in the vinegar. In 1 1/2 hours all bluing was gone. Took it out of the dish, rinsed it off with hot water, dried it and buffed it out with 0000 steel wool and put a light coat of oil on it. The more I shoot it and clean it, the better the metal looks. BTW As a side note everyone, DO NOT use your wife's best casserole dish to do this. She still mumbles under her breath and I get "The Eye" every time she goes to use it. lol Can't wait for part II.
lol..very true brother..i will hit up the thrift stores for containers when i am thinking of such things
I've got an old rusty axe head soaking in vinegar now, never thought about removing bluing with it. Thanks.
Why not? Bluing is just a type of controlled rust.
Good video interesting about the. Ratio of weapons of our confederate ancestors compared to the us army
I use choke tube anti-seize lube ( high temp grease lube mixed with graphite and aluminum) for the nipples. It's an equivalent to automotive anti-seize compound used for spark plugs and such where high temps can bond two metal surfaces together causing stripping upon removal or worse snapping the spark plug off while torquing it.
thanks for the lesson sir
Blackie, I have an Armi San Paolo that I just managed to repair to the point where it works like it should with just a tiny bit of cylinder wiggle. What I want to know is should I re blue it? It is still in "the white" I think y'all call it. It has been fired so much that the cam on the hammer wore off. I am not particularly fond of the white look and would like for it to be darker. Can I blue it without screwing it up?
I found a way of antiquing revolvers. If its blued set it in metal rescue rust remover for 10-16 hours then revolver use air duster and a rag to dry off then use scotch bright pad to lightly brush certain spots and then spray dry coat rust preventer. That's it.
sounds like a good ise thanks for posting..safe journeys
Hello Blackie , I have an 1860 Army that you have helped me with in the past. The hammer spring on it is VERY stiff. I've watched other videos on how to lighten the feel , tension or what ever you call it. By sanding the spring on a belt sander and sanding the spring sideways not lengthwise and only in the middle of the spring. How do I know when I've sanded enough ?
This process is used also among guitar players who want to "Relic" their instruments .
There are many ways to do it , also with "Ferric Chloryde" among other methods .
If you're interested with various technics , check up on youtube at
"How to age guitar harware, metal parts " ...
Though, i would stay with vinegar , as it's not toxic to breathe , and the most
ecological way to do it .
wow, vinegar? i would love to have a neat antiqued finish to my pietta, please continue!
Hey Blackie,
I’m building a Uberti Walter from a kit and I want to brown it.
Could you possibly pass on a few tips?
the fastest is to use gun blueing with a little water in it....allow it to rust then wipe off with a rough cloth..repeat untill a brown layer forms
anybody gets around any of my guns with steel wool will get brained with an ax handle.
My guns get shot a lot and get cleaned a l;ot they do pick up some holster marks but it is just honest working gun marks.
Can you tell me where I might buy a replacement Navy Frame. I seldom shoot at 70. I rather like to go to Wild West shows, and just stand around (contimplating the frailities of the human race). This is somewhat easy to do in Okla.
i would check with dixie gun works they should be of help
W
ill vinegar hurt the bore in any way?
no it should be fine just be sure to wash it out well before firing
@@BLACKIETHOMAS thank you
Just nickel plate it.
Well, crap! You didn't finish the video. You were explaining what you did and how yours would look when that damn cat intervened and interrupted the video and you never finished.
Antiquing a firearm? Why? Over time the bluing will wear, accelerating the process increases the chance for rust. Definite waste of a good firearm, and time.
haha yes it can seem to be..usually i leave a new gun as is..till it wears bad or something happens to need a reblue..but ya gotta admit..the ]old warhorse look is very fetching
Why? I have some firearms that are from 70 to 100 years old and they do not look like antiques. These rifles were used every year in the Upper Michigan deer woods but were given reasonable care by my Father and myself. Given my experience with firearms I would have to live to be 200 to 300 years old or more for mine to develop and honest, antique look.