Nice installation with lots of good hints. I installed one of these (same model) in the fall of 2020, so it's been running for 2 seasons. What a great improvement in our home environment! I would recommend that everyone in cold climates consider this.
Travis..thanks for the video..we just installed a new furnace and kept the old bypass Aprilaire Humidifier which is totally manual ( no sensor)..when I have the humidistat on and increase the percentage up or down, it clicks on and off fine..solenoid is fine, etc..however when the furnace shuts off, the humidifier keeps running the water.. I remember my old furnace when kicked on, it also kicked on the humidistat and when kicked off, they both kicked off. Had the dealer back out today and he says I have a manual humidistat that is independent of the furnace. It doesn't make sense. What good is a running humidistat without the blower being on in the furnace. Humidifier water could actually run forever...so I turned the humidifier off until I can figure this out. In short he says, the furnace isn't talking to the humdifier and it does appear the installation of furnace is fine and there are no other wires that are not hooked up. I have a transformer for the humidifier that is powered to the usual plug receptacle. When I shut off the furnace, the humdifier shuts off too. Not sure if the technician knew his stuff. He's not an installer. Sounds to me like the fan isn't hooked up at all. Any ideas?..perhaps I could call you...
It can be installed on either the return or the supply. But it works better on the supply and with hot water. Just make sure the water is softened for better performance so you don't get scale buildup.
Hello. From the diagram at 0:07, given the blue and red arrows signify the return and supply, respectively, the Aprilaire whole-home humidifier (WHH) is shown installed on the return side. I have read some purposefully choose to install their WHH on the return. I made sure to do enough due diligence before installing the unit as a DIY homeowner. Low and behold, I went off of this diagram and winds up that Aprilaire states in their instructions to install the unit on the supply side. I am not looking forward to switching the Aprilaire WHH unit from the return to the supply side and end up having to patch the square cutout with a makeshift flange with the start collar. Please advise.
I wouldn't worry about it. Despite the supplied instructions showing the unit on the supply Aprilaire says that you can install on either supply or return. It works in the same manner. This is a standard for evaporative humidifiers. The only time installing on the supply is a must or rather highly recommended is for ones with built in fans. www.aprilaire.com/owner-center/frequently-asked-questions
@@shanew7361 Why supply? and why do saddle valves suck. I don't like the thought of it. I think I would rather just have a shut off valve branched off of my hw line.
@@tuanische Saddle valves are garbage first off, just look at the actual design. Think about it. The reason the supply is the best is so humid air actually makes it and isn't removed from a furnace.
@@Balticblue93 It seems like you and Shane W are both wrong, even AprilAire's own FAQ states... "AprilAire bypass humidifier’s get their air movement through the water panel by the differential pressure between the supply (hot air) plenum and the return (cold air) duct. The supply plenum is under positive pressure and the return duct is under negative pressure. One of the advantages of a bypass humidifier is that it can be installed either on the supply plenum or on the return duct with equal effectiveness. No matter which duct the humidifier is mounted on, the airflow always goes from the supply to the return through the humidifier. A bypass humidifier will also have no adverse effect on any component in the furnace, air cleaner or filter. AprilAire Humidifiers put “water vapor” into the air. This is nature’s way of getting relative humidity into the air." but yes i will agree saddle values are only good for quick setup but will fail and leak so you might as well do it right the first time
How much water is wasted? is there a system that cycles the water that the humidifier uses back to the top. the hot water heater will run 24/7 as long as the humidifier is needed. how can you make it better?
15 year HVAC journeyman here. You have to have the positive pressure from the supply side. This pushes the moisture to the return side. It may work the other way around but this could rob your air flow (having it suck instead of blown)
Not being critical but isn’t that a long run to get the moist air to the return? I loved my humidifier in my old house but the hard water kept it constantly out of service about every 3 months.
From personal experience, I think that length would be fine. But I agree with you 100% on the soft water factor! (I just hate the expense and/or labour involved in water softening. 😕)
15 year HVAC journeyman here. Why didn't you insulate your duct work? That doesn't look like it is a conditioned space, and I noticed you didn't seal your duct work
I'd say minimal difference since the small amount of water flow won't be enough to keep the line/water warm anyway... especially since it is most often located in a basement or crawl space.
I assume some installers do it differently.My installer hook my water l to cold water line.The unit is on the supply side and humidistat on return side.
So many things wrong with this unprofessional install. Number 1 is that saddle valves are against code to install. In other words, CANNOT be used under any circumstances. These guys will use them because they are quick and easy to do, but inserts unnecessary risk and potential to leak over time. Number 2 a galvanized metal pipe hanger was used to keep the water line shut off stationary. Galvanized metal should not come in contact with ANY copper as it will introduce electrolysis to the metals, creating potential leak issues down the road. This is the problem with companies like this, maybe the customer won't have issues right away, but these are simple, albeit HUGE no-no's in the industry. Yet companies get away with these things all the time. This work would not pass code anywhere in the United States unless the inspector doesn't care or is too lazy to go down there to look. Job rating F, please do better, it literally would take seconds more to do it the right way.
Nice installation with lots of good hints. I installed one of these (same model) in the fall of 2020, so it's been running for 2 seasons. What a great improvement in our home environment! I would recommend that everyone in cold climates consider this.
Travis..thanks for the video..we just installed a new furnace and kept the old bypass Aprilaire Humidifier which is totally manual ( no sensor)..when I have the humidistat on and increase the percentage up or down, it clicks on and off fine..solenoid is fine, etc..however when the furnace shuts off, the humidifier keeps running the water.. I remember my old furnace when kicked on, it also kicked on the humidistat and when kicked off, they both kicked off. Had the dealer back out today and he says I have a manual humidistat that is independent of the furnace. It doesn't make sense. What good is a running humidistat without the blower being on in the furnace. Humidifier water could actually run forever...so I turned the humidifier off until I can figure this out. In short he says, the furnace isn't talking to the humdifier and it does appear the installation of furnace is fine and there are no other wires that are not hooked up. I have a transformer for the humidifier that is powered to the usual plug receptacle. When I shut off the furnace, the humdifier shuts off too. Not sure if the technician knew his stuff. He's not an installer. Sounds to me like the fan isn't hooked up at all.
Any ideas?..perhaps I could call you...
"if you think that you can do it...then i think that you can as well"
Not sure if you had the room, but the unit can be rotated to allow for more direct bypass ducting.
I think he could've done that part better like you said :)
See 2:27 ... No way it could point to the right.
Thank you for the video! But how do you adjust pressure from pex supply line? Since its 40 psi there
Nice video without time wasting bs!
It can be installed on either the return or the supply. But it works better on the supply and with hot water. Just make sure the water is softened for better performance so you don't get scale buildup.
Why on the reter befor the filter ? Wouldnt that decrease the humidity, because the filter catches someone the water vapors?
Hello. From the diagram at 0:07, given the blue and red arrows signify the return and supply, respectively, the Aprilaire whole-home humidifier (WHH) is shown installed on the return side. I have read some purposefully choose to install their WHH on the return. I made sure to do enough due diligence before installing the unit as a DIY homeowner. Low and behold, I went off of this diagram and winds up that Aprilaire states in their instructions to install the unit on the supply side. I am not looking forward to switching the Aprilaire WHH unit from the return to the supply side and end up having to patch the square cutout with a makeshift flange with the start collar. Please advise.
I wouldn't worry about it. Despite the supplied instructions showing the unit on the supply Aprilaire says that you can install on either supply or return. It works in the same manner. This is a standard for evaporative humidifiers. The only time installing on the supply is a must or rather highly recommended is for ones with built in fans.
www.aprilaire.com/owner-center/frequently-asked-questions
Always the supply side this guy is a hack. Saddle valves are trash too.
@@shanew7361 Why supply? and why do saddle valves suck. I don't like the thought of it. I think I would rather just have a shut off valve branched off of my hw line.
@@tuanische Saddle valves are garbage first off, just look at the actual design. Think about it. The reason the supply is the best is so humid air actually makes it and isn't removed from a furnace.
@@Balticblue93 It seems like you and Shane W are both wrong, even AprilAire's own FAQ states...
"AprilAire bypass humidifier’s get their air movement through the water panel by the differential pressure between the supply (hot air) plenum and the return (cold air) duct.
The supply plenum is under positive pressure and the return duct is under negative pressure. One of the advantages of a bypass humidifier is that it can be installed either on the supply plenum or on the return duct with equal effectiveness. No matter which duct the humidifier is mounted on, the airflow always goes from the supply to the return through the humidifier.
A bypass humidifier will also have no adverse effect on any component in the furnace, air cleaner or filter. AprilAire Humidifiers put “water vapor” into the air. This is nature’s way of getting relative humidity into the air."
but yes i will agree saddle values are only good for quick setup but will fail and leak so you might as well do it right the first time
I wish you showed exactly how to do the wiring.
I am here for that and bro went straight to another model. Like bruhhh.
How much water is wasted? is there a system that cycles the water that the humidifier uses back to the top. the hot water heater will run 24/7 as long as the humidifier is needed. how can you make it better?
In your opinion, do you get better performance from installing on supply or return?
15 year HVAC journeyman here. You have to have the positive pressure from the supply side. This pushes the moisture to the return side. It may work the other way around but this could rob your air flow (having it suck instead of blown)
what is the digital display used at the end?
The pad type humidifiers are like Petri dishes for algae...especially with harder water..
Where is light for algal growth is going to come from?
Not being critical but isn’t that a long run to get the moist air to the return?
I loved my humidifier in my old house but the hard water kept it constantly out of service about every 3 months.
From personal experience, I think that length would be fine. But I agree with you 100% on the soft water factor! (I just hate the expense and/or labour involved in water softening. 😕)
15 year HVAC journeyman here. Why didn't you insulate your duct work? That doesn't look like it is a conditioned space, and I noticed you didn't seal your duct work
Could conditioned space, could be insulated on inside of duct work or depends where he lives
❤cool thanks
Are you in New Jersey?
Can we use the cold water line instead of the hot water line ?
Yes.
I'd say minimal difference since the small amount of water flow won't be enough to keep the line/water warm anyway... especially since it is most often located in a basement or crawl space.
Love that you 'stole' the "w" from the Wait-Scuttle logo for your company name. 😉
My guesstimate is 3 grand?
Humidifier should go on the supply side not return.
That's where I Put mine on water b valve to
I assume some installers do it differently.My installer hook my water l to cold water line.The unit is on the supply side and humidistat on return side.
💡Good idea! Mold spores getting blasted directly into home air without having the chance to go through a HEPA filter?
😂 leave it to the pros
It can go on either. Bypass Air flows hot to cold.
So many things wrong with this unprofessional install.
Number 1 is that saddle valves are against code to install. In other words, CANNOT be used under any circumstances. These guys will use them because they are quick and easy to do, but inserts unnecessary risk and potential to leak over time.
Number 2 a galvanized metal pipe hanger was used to keep the water line shut off stationary. Galvanized metal should not come in contact with ANY copper as it will introduce electrolysis to the metals, creating potential leak issues down the road.
This is the problem with companies like this, maybe the customer won't have issues right away, but these are simple, albeit HUGE no-no's in the industry. Yet companies get away with these things all the time. This work would not pass code anywhere in the United States unless the inspector doesn't care or is too lazy to go down there to look.
Job rating F, please do better, it literally would take seconds more to do it the right way.
Lack of info for DIY.