Those early Davies were something special. And I am surprised the Kahler "Floyds" didn't take off better for higher end guitars. They are tough and super solid!
Hey, thanks. If you get a chance to play one, certainly take the opportunity. They are a unique guitar, but it is almost a religious experience. There is just something special about them.
@@mato-cj9gq, it all depends on the condition and if anything has been changed. A 91-92 Davies in this condition with all original parts still working is around $2700-$3000
@@buzzzmiller Thanks for the response:) my guitars bnody is in excellent condition theres just a mess with the electronics and the upper pick up but everything can be repaired by a luthier so no problem about that. I can send you some pictures if you are interested :) I thought the 91 original davies go for even 4000+ but i dont really have much knowledge about the guitar and there apperantly no one in the internet who sells the same guitar edit: sryy for mistakes not a native english speaker haha
@@mato-cj9gq, I don't work on other people's guitars. But if the electronics are returned to the way they were when it was new by a good guitar tech, and you posted great photos, you will see interested parties responding.
Buzz, did you sell that Davies -- and, if no, any chance you might be interested in selling (or could you point me in the right direction towards getting one)?
can you tell us? im about to do a stainless refret and i dont think the diamond stuff is the way to go cuz it wears out too fast and is too expensive, ive had some good results with hosco stuff and new fretguru file. would like to know what you used since youre stainless fret snob like you said
I love the stuff the FretGuru sells. I would use those. Stainless is really hard on the files and things. That is why people charge more for a stainless fret job. The funny thing is; I don't use files on my frets. I only use sandpaper. It wears out really fast, but sandpaper is cheap. Fret files are expensive.
@@buzzzmiller yes, i have all 4 items from fretguru. the crowning file is great but for jumbo frets only, he just put out a redesigned one on amazon but i wanted your opinion since you said you switch them all to stainless, if you have a preferred tool for working on them specifically. honestly, i feel like the best file is the ild school triangle file for crown work and hosco fret dressing file, its got a concave section to round the ends and just the steel feels better quality. and if you have a grinder, you can whip up a triangle file easily and get a good one from home depot off topic, planning in building a n4 from scratch. got the plans off guitar herald website BUT i noticed the lower horn is slightly off from the real thing. im planning on a hardtail version to keep it simple. do you know of any templates available anywhere? also would love to make a tele version of it if this goes well
@@buzzzmiller i found cheap n easy way to polish frets is a 7way nail file. those you can get at any dollar store, theyre spongy when you pres down the fret, 7 different grits and polish up great. i bought 2 packs of 10 each off amazon and they last a good while.
It is just a black plain screw. The body is not threaded like a Carvin or any of that. I will get the size and post a link to some replacements on eBay.
The screws that Davies used on this guitar were a stainless #4 screw. They were all 1/2" (inch) in length. They had a countersunk head with a light bevel to the head. (Not the perfectly flat top.) They were a Phillips screwdriver head. They look like this; encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/shopping?q=tbn:ANd9GcS1T7VF6et7Pt5Uu1fJqaSicCOHAH0biUhv4i3bf940uDF7Tfe5L2stizAVuQ&usqp=CAE
Davies was first. When Washburn was up and running with production, that was the N4 With the new push of Nuno and Extreme, (and with all of the new CNC equipment to make guitars more exact) there was a desire to make the N4 more like the original Davies. The 4N is Washburn's new push to be more exact with the original Davies guitars. Not made by Davies, but much more like the originals. Now - here is the real problem. Davies were all hand made and hand finished. So no two are exactly alike. So the new 4N is patterned more like Nuno's special and favorite one. And the N24 is the cheaper version, that still has the Steven's Extended Cutaway neck joint. The N2 and the N1 have a standard 4 bolt neck joint.
@@buzzzmiller I would love to have one and would totally pay fair price, would be so awesome if you're open to it ;) my email is sirjankovic@yahoo.com, email me and we can exchange numbers ;)
Guitar lovers still swoon over my early 1992 Davies Washburn N4 .. the Kahler Steelers are tough as balls!
Those early Davies were something special. And I am surprised the Kahler "Floyds" didn't take off better for higher end guitars. They are tough and super solid!
Cool video. Some good info.
I would love to own a real Davies. The one you have is beautiful. Congrats!
Hey, thanks. If you get a chance to play one, certainly take the opportunity. They are a unique guitar, but it is almost a religious experience. There is just something special about them.
I've recently got a real 91 Davies n4 any idea of the market value?
@@mato-cj9gq, it all depends on the condition and if anything has been changed. A 91-92 Davies in this condition with all original parts still working is around $2700-$3000
@@buzzzmiller Thanks for the response:) my guitars bnody is in excellent condition theres just a mess with the electronics and the upper pick up but everything can be repaired by a luthier so no problem about that. I can send you some pictures if you are interested :)
I thought the 91 original davies go for even 4000+ but i dont really have much knowledge about the guitar and there apperantly no one in the internet who sells the same guitar
edit: sryy for mistakes not a native english speaker haha
@@mato-cj9gq, I don't work on other people's guitars. But if the electronics are returned to the way they were when it was new by a good guitar tech, and you posted great photos, you will see interested parties responding.
Buzz, did you sell that Davies -- and, if no, any chance you might be interested in selling (or could you point me in the right direction towards getting one)?
So what fret crowning file do you use for stainless steel refrets?
can you tell us? im about to do a stainless refret and i dont think the diamond stuff is the way to go cuz it wears out too fast and is too expensive, ive had some good results with hosco stuff and new fretguru file. would like to know what you used since youre stainless fret snob like you said
I love the stuff the FretGuru sells. I would use those.
Stainless is really hard on the files and things. That is why people charge more for a stainless fret job.
The funny thing is; I don't use files on my frets. I only use sandpaper. It wears out really fast, but sandpaper is cheap. Fret files are expensive.
@@buzzzmiller yes, i have all 4 items from fretguru. the crowning file is great but for jumbo frets only, he just put out a redesigned one on amazon but i wanted your opinion since you said you switch them all to stainless, if you have a preferred tool for working on them specifically.
honestly, i feel like the best file is the ild school triangle file for crown work and hosco fret dressing file, its got a concave section to round the ends and just the steel feels better quality.
and if you have a grinder, you can whip up a triangle file easily and get a good one from home depot
off topic, planning in building a n4 from scratch. got the plans off guitar herald website BUT i noticed the lower horn is slightly off from the real thing. im planning on a hardtail version to keep it simple. do you know of any templates available anywhere?
also would love to make a tele version of it if this goes well
@@buzzzmiller i found cheap n easy way to polish frets is a 7way nail file. those you can get at any dollar store, theyre spongy when you pres down the fret, 7 different grits and polish up great. i bought 2 packs of 10 each off amazon and they last a good while.
Hi, do you know where I can find the five back plate screws please ?
It is just a black plain screw. The body is not threaded like a Carvin or any of that. I will get the size and post a link to some replacements on eBay.
The screws that Davies used on this guitar were a stainless #4 screw. They were all 1/2" (inch) in length. They had a countersunk head with a light bevel to the head. (Not the perfectly flat top.) They were a Phillips screwdriver head. They look like this; encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/shopping?q=tbn:ANd9GcS1T7VF6et7Pt5Uu1fJqaSicCOHAH0biUhv4i3bf940uDF7Tfe5L2stizAVuQ&usqp=CAE
6:02.... dead on, mine has a 30 cm crack. I hope is not deep enough to alter the functionality of it.
So 4N is davies? And N4 is a washburn, the last guitar in the video is a N24 cheaper version of N4? Thankyoi
Davies was first.
When Washburn was up and running with production, that was the N4
With the new push of Nuno and Extreme, (and with all of the new CNC equipment to make guitars more exact) there was a desire to make the N4 more like the original Davies. The 4N is Washburn's new push to be more exact with the original Davies guitars. Not made by Davies, but much more like the originals.
Now - here is the real problem. Davies were all hand made and hand finished. So no two are exactly alike. So the new 4N is patterned more like Nuno's special and favorite one.
And the N24 is the cheaper version, that still has the Steven's Extended Cutaway neck joint. The N2 and the N1 have a standard 4 bolt neck joint.
whats that purple guitar behind you?
That is my custom N4 with a standard N4 neck, carbon-fiber body, Gotoh Floyd and DiMarzio pickups. A true oddball, but what a player.
Wanna sell your Davies?
I don't really have a need to sell it right now.
What did you have in mind?
@@buzzzmiller I would love to have one and would totally pay fair price, would be so awesome if you're open to it ;) my email is sirjankovic@yahoo.com, email me and we can exchange numbers ;)
@@buzzzmiller I'll take it of your hands if you still have it.....