The struggle is real my friend... It's tough to watch a train wreck like that, but I admire your persistence and willingness to share your own mistakes with others. We've all been there. I'm sure you understand this now but it's worth mentioning for your viewers... Thinking ahead is very important anytime you plan to bury your artwork under a candy. The contrast in your art needs to be adjusted drastically because the darks will get darker, your midtones will become darks and your highlights will become midtones. Adjusting the contrast prior to applying the candy will produce a better end product.
Trevor, I understand. I wanted to share the mistakes with the viewers to try and demonstrate that making a mistake is a learning process. I'm not sure if I conveyed that or not. But I will say in the end I really like the way the finished product looks. I actually like it better than the original. As always, Trevor, thanks for the advice, and I'm still a big fan. Love your work!
I've never touched an airbrush but I'm thinking of trying. Been watching your videos and one thing baffles me - how do you keep the paint from flying out of the cup when you don't use the cap???You get pretty animated sometimes and how the paint stays in is beyond me.
CN, I usually do not have a lot of paint in the cup. But there are times I use my cap. I totally recommend the cap. Early on, I messed up a painting or two because of paint splashing out of the cup. I guess after so long, you just get comfortable with what you can do and what you can't. Thanks for the question, and thanks for watching.
I just got some candy paints. My Hobby Lobby had the paint but didn’t have bleed checker. I went ahead and tried it on an old fishing lure as a practice piece. I found out for myself that candies really do bleed through regular Createx paints even after multiple coats. Since I don’t have bleed checker yet, have you ever tried UVLS instead? Guess I’m wondering if UVLS is just a variation of the bleed checker formula Video was interesting. Nice to see that I’m not the only one that goofs up projects. You have an excellent presentation style and I always learn something. Thx
The science behind stopping a candy from bleeding or leeching into subsequent layers of paint comes down to using dissimilar materials. UVLS is generally used as the "carrier" when mixing candy2o. Dan used UVLS and reducer to mix his candy in this video. Applying the same products that the candy was originally mixed with on top of the existing candy layer can and usually does allow the candy to be reactivated. That is what causes the candy colors to leech into subsequent layers of paint. That is the reason 4040 Bleed Checker is recommended to be sprayed straight out of the bottle with no reduction. Adding reducer to Bleed Checker introduces a similar material already in play and will likely allow the candy to reactivate. Does that make sense? So, while you may get away with using UVLS to stop a candy from bleeding, I wouldn't rely on that method because it will come back to haunt you at some point. There are other factors that influence whether a candy will bleed or not, but the most effective way to stop it is using a dissimilar product to lock it in. A catalyzed urethane clear is another option.
@wickedartstudio Trevor, I hope all is well. It's been a while. Thank you for that. That is very clear and sound advice that makes sense. I never stop learning learning. Thanks.
I ordered Bleed Checker and just received it today. I’ve tried the Candies with partial success so far. I tried Lemon Yellow over a yellow base hoping to get some pop in the color. Results were underwhelming, though I haven’t epoxied it yet. I did use them on a chrome lure and the results were very good Guess they need to go over a light color base. I’ll keep trying different applications. Thanks for the detailed response
@@Indyjeeplover You will generally get better results over lighter colors; however, it greatly depends on how many coats of candy you use as well. One or two quick light coats of candy will produce underwhelming results (it creates an almost pastel looking shade of color - try it on a plain white sheet of paper). Keep in mind a true dye-based candy is completely translucent once applied and will continue to darken with each subsequent coat. So, adding additional layers of candy will darken your underlying colors but those additional layers of candy will also intensify the colors underneath once enough coats are applied. The key to getting good results with a candy wash is spraying the candy to full saturation. How many coats are required to reach full saturation is dependent on the color of candy you are using. Lighter hues will generally require more coats to reach full saturation compared to darker hues. For example, Lemon Yellow will require more coats compared to Blood Red.
Aa, for my airbrush I use a 2 gallon Fortress from harbor freight. And for the small spray gun, I use a 4 gallon Craftsman. It really depends on the guns you want to use. Look at cfm for the gun and the cfm the compressor puts out. I hope this helps.
The struggle is real my friend... It's tough to watch a train wreck like that, but I admire your persistence and willingness to share your own mistakes with others. We've all been there. I'm sure you understand this now but it's worth mentioning for your viewers... Thinking ahead is very important anytime you plan to bury your artwork under a candy. The contrast in your art needs to be adjusted drastically because the darks will get darker, your midtones will become darks and your highlights will become midtones. Adjusting the contrast prior to applying the candy will produce a better end product.
Trevor, I understand. I wanted to share the mistakes with the viewers to try and demonstrate that making a mistake is a learning process. I'm not sure if I conveyed that or not. But I will say in the end I really like the way the finished product looks. I actually like it better than the original. As always, Trevor, thanks for the advice, and I'm still a big fan. Love your work!
I'm not really a skull person, it's kind of morbid, but the instructions are priceless. Thanks
I am glad you liked the video Mark and thanks for always taking a look and supporting the channel.
Would a heat gun or hair dryer on low heat, helped to dry the candy coat quicker?
Air, but not hot air. I use a fan, but be careful that you don't blow dust on to your project.
Awesome video! Do you have any videos on keeping dust and dirt out of projects, especially in an uncontrolled environment like a garage?
PD, I do not but I am always looking for new content and I like that idea. Thanks. And thanks for the comment and thanks for watching.
I've never touched an airbrush but I'm thinking of trying. Been watching your videos and one thing baffles me - how do you keep the paint from flying out of the cup when you don't use the cap???You get pretty animated sometimes and how the paint stays in is beyond me.
CN, I usually do not have a lot of paint in the cup. But there are times I use my cap. I totally recommend the cap. Early on, I messed up a painting or two because of paint splashing out of the cup. I guess after so long, you just get comfortable with what you can do and what you can't. Thanks for the question, and thanks for watching.
I just got some candy paints. My Hobby Lobby had the paint but didn’t have bleed checker. I went ahead and tried it on an old fishing lure as a practice piece. I found out for myself that candies really do bleed through regular Createx paints even after multiple coats. Since I don’t have bleed checker yet, have you ever tried UVLS instead? Guess I’m wondering if UVLS is just a variation of the bleed checker formula
Video was interesting. Nice to see that I’m not the only one that goofs up projects. You have an excellent presentation style and I always learn something. Thx
Chuck, yes. I used the UVLS for an inner coat (Bleed Checker) in the video. If you don't seal candies in the will Bleed through.
The science behind stopping a candy from bleeding or leeching into subsequent layers of paint comes down to using dissimilar materials. UVLS is generally used as the "carrier" when mixing candy2o. Dan used UVLS and reducer to mix his candy in this video. Applying the same products that the candy was originally mixed with on top of the existing candy layer can and usually does allow the candy to be reactivated. That is what causes the candy colors to leech into subsequent layers of paint. That is the reason 4040 Bleed Checker is recommended to be sprayed straight out of the bottle with no reduction. Adding reducer to Bleed Checker introduces a similar material already in play and will likely allow the candy to reactivate. Does that make sense?
So, while you may get away with using UVLS to stop a candy from bleeding, I wouldn't rely on that method because it will come back to haunt you at some point. There are other factors that influence whether a candy will bleed or not, but the most effective way to stop it is using a dissimilar product to lock it in. A catalyzed urethane clear is another option.
@wickedartstudio Trevor, I hope all is well. It's been a while. Thank you for that. That is very clear and sound advice that makes sense. I never stop learning learning. Thanks.
I ordered Bleed Checker and just received it today. I’ve tried the Candies with partial success so far. I tried Lemon Yellow over a yellow base hoping to get some pop in the color. Results were underwhelming, though I haven’t epoxied it yet. I did use them on a chrome lure and the results were very good
Guess they need to go over a light color base. I’ll keep trying different applications.
Thanks for the detailed response
@@Indyjeeplover You will generally get better results over lighter colors; however, it greatly depends on how many coats of candy you use as well. One or two quick light coats of candy will produce underwhelming results (it creates an almost pastel looking shade of color - try it on a plain white sheet of paper). Keep in mind a true dye-based candy is completely translucent once applied and will continue to darken with each subsequent coat. So, adding additional layers of candy will darken your underlying colors but those additional layers of candy will also intensify the colors underneath once enough coats are applied. The key to getting good results with a candy wash is spraying the candy to full saturation. How many coats are required to reach full saturation is dependent on the color of candy you are using. Lighter hues will generally require more coats to reach full saturation compared to darker hues. For example, Lemon Yellow will require more coats compared to Blood Red.
Amazing, how big is the air compressor used cause i wanna buy the smallest that i can get buy to spray a guitar body! any ideas?
Aa, for my airbrush I use a 2 gallon Fortress from harbor freight. And for the small spray gun, I use a 4 gallon Craftsman. It really depends on the guns you want to use. Look at cfm for the gun and the cfm the compressor puts out. I hope this helps.
It surely does. Thanks@@TheAirbrushGarage