Thanks for posting this. I referred to it a couple of times today (specifically the torque specs for the sprockets) but it was useful overall. I cut through the chain with an angle grinder, too!
Nice video! I got my CBF500 chain and sprockets done as well. The aftermarket sprockets look good but I preferred the genuine Honda ones as there is a rubber washer on the front. That reduces the noise I believe.
Excellent. Couple of tips, get a decent chain riveter, it’s a quicker process than I made it look, and if you have access to a small grinder, cut the old one off, and don’t listen to the guys who say this makes a load of mess and isn’t the right way etc, it doesn’t at all and takes seconds. Make sure however you loosen the front sprocket nut before you take the chain off as you’ll need the bike in gear, rear brake on to assist, and you may need a breaker bar. Aside from that easy job.
My only mistake was forgetting to loosen the front sprocket before cutting the chain, aside from that job done. In fact binding the old chain and rear sprocket up was a lot more effective.Job done. Too many twats out there get prissy about cutting chains off. Nobbers !
@@existential_fred when you do that you just end up cranking the engine. It’s better to have the chain on and rear brake on, with someone sitting on the bike for extra weight to stop the wheel turning.
On a cb500x 2019, you DON'T have to break the master link ( aka completely break apart your chain) if you're not replacing the chain and are trying to replace the rear sprocket. After loosening the axle bolt's nut on the right side and loosening the chain-tension locking nuts ( one on each side) that will enable you to slide the entire wheel forward enough to loose enough chain tension. Remove the axle bolt ( 11 ish inches long ), and you'll need to kind of faniggle with the rear brake assembly lifting it at a small angle as you're working on sliding towards you ( to the rear) the wheel as the while you're able to remove the chain from the rear wheel's sprocket little by little. When you're ready to reinstall the rear wheel, as you're feeding/putting the chain on the sprocket, start from the top, otherwise you won't be able to get it on as their is an L shaped ( kinda) piece that is welded to the swingarm frame on the left side that gets in the way otherwise. I just finished my project of going from front/rear of 15 tooth/41 tooth stock sprockets, to 16t/40t sprockets ( I wanted lower rpms at the 60+ mph range for slightly better mpg as mpg starts kind of tanking beyond the 4300 rpm range...., about halfway mark of rpm). Remember these torque values, per honda themselves: Rear sprocket nuts ...85 foot pounds of torque/pound feet of torque Rear axle nut ( on the right side )...65 Chain adjusting lock nut ..one per side of the bike = 20 ( it's the 12mm nut...the 10mm is for moving that long adjusting screw it is hard-attached to that literally presses against the square metal faceplate that the 11 ish inch long axle/bolt goes through) My bike has barely cleared the 3k miles mark and I have been riding it very gently/easily ( never been above 70mph and don't hamfist the throttle trying to beat everyone 0-60mph either..I want my vehicles to truly last). Thus for me, changing out the front sprocket and rear sprocket without replacing the chain is really not much of a wear-n -tear risk to the chain. I changed the front sprocket bearly 400 miles from changing, today, the rear stock = 15t front, 41t rear mine = 16t front, 40t rear I wanted alittle lower rpm at the 60+ mph range for slightly better gas mileage as gas mileage on this bike begins to dip more noticeably at above the 4300 rpm range ( love my 75+ mpg). Hope this helped someone. I imagine most of this is similar for the 2013 through 2020 models with possibly some minor differences. Contact honda power sports or google a service manual if you can to confirm the correct torque specs for your make and model bike.
Yeah LOL. I have fitted a heavy duty chain now with no x or o rings, clip type which I prefer as so easy to remove, clean and soak. A few days ago, the oil filter sprang a leak, dropped all the oil in the 11 or so miles ride home, never had issues with this bike in six years apart from general maintenance, so as I planned to do an engine removal and strip down at the next oil change ( which I have done before on the CB ) that will be coming up very soon. Just need to sell one of the bikes that’s taking up space in the garage and I’ll be on it, so a bit more of a technical video. What do you ride mate ?
What I like about my used 2001 CB500 SY, that i picked up a couple of years ago with very low mileage, is that you can do all the work yourself if you have to. However what I really like is that I hardly ever need to fix anything, as long as I do regular maintenance, keep the chain adjusted and do regular oil changes. So far so good ;-) Just bought some TEC gas adjustable shocks which I am planning to fit on the weekend.
Oh that’s cool. You are right these are so easy to maintain but.most everything is maintenance free aside from the chains and sprockets and fluids etc. All I have done to this bike is derestrict it after I bought it as I didn’t need the restrictors and I’ve replaced endless foorpegs, levers and mirrors due to general clumsiness and indicator stalks as they do seem to perish a bit quick. I have also replaced the brake disc on the rear and completely rebuilt the forks so should be good for a few more years. Just want to get the engine stripped and cleaned. I am expecting to find some damage in there as when I bought it it had an intermittent knock, that hasn’t ever returned but clearly a tooth or a bit of something flaked off and got in the works, presume taken out by the filter at some point but I want to see what. I do also want to de coke it anyway for performance. I had s spare engine I rebuilt so I’m fairly familiar with it now.
Hi Neil, yeah I know, how’s it going. Mine’s been a dream all summer, I recon we’ll have a nice 6 weeks before the weather starts to cool off. Happy riding mate !
@@memybikeni9931 not used mine alot this year as i also have a vfr750. Which i have now put up for sale. Wife told me one had to go and i did not want it to be the cb500. Lol.
Yeah love it ! It’s my dads old woodworking mallet, I prefer it to using a nylon hammer that most people use for whacking metal parts. It does look a bit troll. LOL.
LOL. Don't mean to laugh but it is quite entertaining. Now, unlike some inconsiderate folk who just laugh because they don't know any better, at least you had a good go, so here are some tips for the next time to make it easier, my friend. 1. Invest in a 1/2 inch drive Halfords Professional strongarm (breaker) bar. DON'T use a ratchet handle for a gearbox sprocket - you might break the mechanism inside the head of the ratchet handle. 2. In any case, a ratchet handle drive (the cube you attach the socket to) is fixed to the head, but a strongarm bar drive can rotate laterally around it head 180 degrees. A strongarm can handle very heavy leverage without sustaining any damage. 3a. To undo a gearbox sprocket, leave the chain connected, LOL, and after removing the grimy, plastic cover, select FIRST gear - NOT sixth!!!! (less resistance the higher the gear - think about the physics of bump starting - you bump in a higher gear to lessen the engine speed thus reducing the rolling resistance so it's easier to start the engine, same principal here, in reverse - use first gear because you need maximum resistance to help prevent the gearbox shaft (sprocket) from spinning when you apply the turning force to undo the bolt). 3b. With bike on main stand, stand aside the bike on the footpegs and using the strongarm and socket only - WITHOUT a reach extension on the socket - place the socket on the gearbox sprocket bolt and angle the bar outwards slightly for a clear path of movement, push the rear brake with your right foot, hold the handlebar with your right hand, and just lift the bar with your left hand until it 'breaks' the bolt easily from its fastening. Because you had a reach extension on your socket, look how the socket very nearly slipped off the bolt - this can cause injury to your back, as well as rounding off a bolt or destroying your tools. 4. Gearbox sprockets are designed to be loose on the shaft on a CB500. That is completely normal. Yours is not loose or worn. A CB500 drive chain clatters around a bit on low revs, probably due to this - I've found that a cushioned, rubber mounted sprocket from JT Racing (on ebay) helps smooth things out quite a bit. Hope that helps. LOL angle grinder - never thought of cutting a chain off like that before, but hey, might start doing it - you learn something every day.... :-)
Yes I have a 1/2 inch square drive (the cube thing) breaker bar, You can see that being used at 7:00. I think I mentioned in the vid that I inadvertently cut the chain off before loosening the sprocket bolt, that was an error more than lack of know how, I wouldn’t normally of done that. Your right though, I should have avoided an extension bar, but needed to get in there. I didn’t know there was meant to be play on that sprocket so thanks for the info, but the bolt had been necked so it was longer and not bottoming out properly in the output shaft so not seating and was contributing to the sprocket being looser than it should have been. Way too much free play. Re the grinder, yes it’s something I always do and I ignore the princesses that whine about it, it works for me. Thanks for the tips, ride safe... 😁
Yeah I’m one of the many that relies on red and blue underlines while typing and pays no attention to autocorrect. So yeah get me where it hurts - my typing skills ! But seriously - thanks for pointing it out. I could correct it but that would make you look silly rather than me. I’ll not bother. 😂
It is a rookie error, ALWAYS ALWAYS undo the front sprocket nut before you do anything. Simple really. I can’t take anymore of this fella he is useless.
Thanks for posting this. I referred to it a couple of times today (specifically the torque specs for the sprockets) but it was useful overall. I cut through the chain with an angle grinder, too!
Thank you. Well done on being an angle grinder rebel like me, too many princesses out there who think that’s sacrilege. It’s just a tool.
Nice video! I got my CBF500 chain and sprockets done as well. The aftermarket sprockets look good but I preferred the genuine Honda ones as there is a rubber washer on the front. That reduces the noise I believe.
Totally agree, I prefer Honda original. Better quality and I think the bike loses some originality with aftermarket parts.
I will consult this video later, when I'm actually changing these. Thanks!
Excellent. Couple of tips, get a decent chain riveter, it’s a quicker process than I made it look, and if you have access to a small grinder, cut the old one off, and don’t listen to the guys who say this makes a load of mess and isn’t the right way etc, it doesn’t at all and takes seconds. Make sure however you loosen the front sprocket nut before you take the chain off as you’ll need the bike in gear, rear brake on to assist, and you may need a breaker bar. Aside from that easy job.
Okay! Thanks for the tips!
The title is absolutely correct.
My only mistake was forgetting to loosen the front sprocket before cutting the chain, aside from that job done. In fact binding the old chain and rear sprocket up was a lot more effective.Job done. Too many twats out there get prissy about cutting chains off. Nobbers !
@@memybikeni9931 couldn't you just put the bike in gear ¿
@@existential_fred when you do that you just end up cranking the engine. It’s better to have the chain on and rear brake on, with someone sitting on the bike for extra weight to stop the wheel turning.
YOU'VE GOT SO MUCH COMMENTS LOTS OF PEOPLE MUST REALLY LIKE YOU ALOT UNCLE RIC
Very good video... You explained honestly.👌👍
Thank you
thanx! good safe rides sir!
Thanks, you too!
On a cb500x 2019, you DON'T have to break the master link ( aka completely break apart your chain) if you're not replacing the chain and are trying to replace the rear sprocket.
After loosening the axle bolt's nut on the right side and loosening the chain-tension locking nuts ( one on each side) that will enable you to slide the entire wheel forward enough to loose enough chain tension. Remove the axle bolt ( 11 ish inches long ), and you'll need to kind of faniggle with the rear brake assembly lifting it at a small angle as you're working on sliding towards you ( to the rear) the wheel as the while you're able to remove the chain from the rear wheel's sprocket little by little.
When you're ready to reinstall the rear wheel, as you're feeding/putting the chain on the sprocket, start from the top, otherwise you won't be able to get it on as their is an L shaped ( kinda) piece that is welded to the swingarm frame on the left side that gets in the way otherwise.
I just finished my project of going from front/rear of 15 tooth/41 tooth stock sprockets, to 16t/40t sprockets ( I wanted lower rpms at the 60+ mph range for slightly better mpg as mpg starts kind of tanking beyond the 4300 rpm range...., about halfway mark of rpm).
Remember these torque values, per honda themselves:
Rear sprocket nuts ...85 foot pounds of torque/pound feet of torque
Rear axle nut ( on the right side )...65
Chain adjusting lock nut ..one per side of the bike = 20 ( it's the 12mm nut...the 10mm is for moving that long adjusting screw it is hard-attached to that literally presses against the square metal faceplate that the 11 ish inch long axle/bolt goes through)
My bike has barely cleared the 3k miles mark and I have been riding it very gently/easily ( never been above 70mph and don't hamfist the throttle trying to beat everyone 0-60mph either..I want my vehicles to truly last). Thus for me, changing out the front sprocket and rear sprocket without replacing the chain is really not much of a wear-n -tear risk to the chain. I changed the front sprocket bearly 400 miles from changing, today, the rear
stock = 15t front, 41t rear
mine = 16t front, 40t rear
I wanted alittle lower rpm at the 60+ mph range for slightly better gas mileage as gas mileage on this bike begins to dip more noticeably at above the 4300 rpm range ( love my 75+ mpg).
Hope this helped someone. I imagine most of this is similar for the 2013 through 2020 models with possibly some minor differences.
Contact honda power sports or google a service manual if you can to confirm the correct torque specs for your make and model bike.
Thank you for this. Nicely done.
Thank you. Hope it helped. Sadly the chain lasted about as long as this and snapped a week ago or so. A bit too much on the red line. LOL.
oh no! At least you know how to fit a new one ;-)
Yeah LOL. I have fitted a heavy duty chain now with no x or o rings, clip type which I prefer as so easy to remove, clean and soak. A few days ago, the oil filter sprang a leak, dropped all the oil in the 11 or so miles ride home, never had issues with this bike in six years apart from general maintenance, so as I planned to do an engine removal and strip down at the next oil change ( which I have done before on the CB ) that will be coming up very soon. Just need to sell one of the bikes that’s taking up space in the garage and I’ll be on it, so a bit more of a technical video. What do you ride mate ?
What I like about my used 2001 CB500 SY, that i picked up a couple of years ago with very low mileage, is that you can do all the work yourself if you have to. However what I really like is that I hardly ever need to fix anything, as long as I do regular maintenance, keep the chain adjusted and do regular oil changes. So far so good ;-) Just bought some TEC gas adjustable shocks which I am planning to fit on the weekend.
Oh that’s cool. You are right these are so easy to maintain but.most everything is maintenance free aside from the chains and sprockets and fluids etc. All I have done to this bike is derestrict it after I bought it as I didn’t need the restrictors and I’ve replaced endless foorpegs, levers and mirrors due to general clumsiness and indicator stalks as they do seem to perish a bit quick. I have also replaced the brake disc on the rear and completely rebuilt the forks so should be good for a few more years. Just want to get the engine stripped and cleaned. I am expecting to find some damage in there as when I bought it it had an intermittent knock, that hasn’t ever returned but clearly a tooth or a bit of something flaked off and got in the works, presume taken out by the filter at some point but I want to see what. I do also want to de coke it anyway for performance. I had s spare engine I rebuilt so I’m fairly familiar with it now.
Great work i have the same bike same clour great bikes.
Hi Neil, yeah I know, how’s it going. Mine’s been a dream all summer, I recon we’ll have a nice 6 weeks before the weather starts to cool off. Happy riding mate !
@@memybikeni9931 not used mine alot this year as i also have a vfr750. Which i have now put up for sale. Wife told me one had to go and i did not want it to be the cb500. Lol.
That troll hammer is pretty cool hehe
Yeah love it ! It’s my dads old woodworking mallet, I prefer it to using a nylon hammer that most people use for whacking metal parts. It does look a bit troll. LOL.
Hey uncle Richard it's Solomon Cluderay
Hi Solomon. Thanks for giving me your full name, always good to be sure. LOL. More vids are on the way,
How many miles has the bike done?
Probably about 35,000 at that point in time, I don’t rightly remember. I sold it a year ago, I’m riding an NT650 now.
LOL. Don't mean to laugh but it is quite entertaining. Now, unlike some inconsiderate folk who just laugh because they don't know any better, at least you had a good go, so here are some tips for the next time to make it easier, my friend.
1. Invest in a 1/2 inch drive Halfords Professional strongarm (breaker) bar. DON'T use a ratchet handle for a gearbox sprocket - you might break the mechanism inside the head of the ratchet handle.
2. In any case, a ratchet handle drive (the cube you attach the socket to) is fixed to the head, but a strongarm bar drive can rotate laterally around it head 180 degrees. A strongarm can handle very heavy leverage without sustaining any damage.
3a. To undo a gearbox sprocket, leave the chain connected, LOL, and after removing the grimy, plastic cover, select FIRST gear - NOT sixth!!!! (less resistance the higher the gear - think about the physics of bump starting - you bump in a higher gear to lessen the engine speed thus reducing the rolling resistance so it's easier to start the engine, same principal here, in reverse - use first gear because you need maximum resistance to help prevent the gearbox shaft (sprocket) from spinning when you apply the turning force to undo the bolt).
3b. With bike on main stand, stand aside the bike on the footpegs and using the strongarm and socket only - WITHOUT a reach extension on the socket - place the socket on the gearbox sprocket bolt and angle the bar outwards slightly for a clear path of movement, push the rear brake with your right foot, hold the handlebar with your right hand, and just lift the bar with your left hand until it 'breaks' the bolt easily from its fastening. Because you had a reach extension on your socket, look how the socket very nearly slipped off the bolt - this can cause injury to your back, as well as rounding off a bolt or destroying your tools.
4. Gearbox sprockets are designed to be loose on the shaft on a CB500. That is completely normal. Yours is not loose or worn. A CB500 drive chain clatters around a bit on low revs, probably due to this - I've found that a cushioned, rubber mounted sprocket from JT Racing (on ebay) helps smooth things out quite a bit. Hope that helps.
LOL angle grinder - never thought of cutting a chain off like that before, but hey, might start doing it - you learn something every day.... :-)
Yes I have a 1/2 inch square drive (the cube thing) breaker bar, You can see that being used at 7:00. I think I mentioned in the vid that I inadvertently cut the chain off before loosening the sprocket bolt, that was an error more than lack of know how, I wouldn’t normally of done that. Your right though, I should have avoided an extension bar, but needed to get in there. I didn’t know there was meant to be play on that sprocket so thanks for the info, but the bolt had been necked so it was longer and not bottoming out properly in the output shaft so not seating and was contributing to the sprocket being looser than it should have been. Way too much free play. Re the grinder, yes it’s something I always do and I ignore the princesses that whine about it, it works for me. Thanks for the tips, ride safe... 😁
@@memybikeni9931 Ahh yes - didn't notice it, sorry! took me ages to write that and didn't re-watch the whole vid :-)
ride safe
how not to spell "your"... heheh
Yeah I’m one of the many that relies on red and blue underlines while typing and pays no attention to autocorrect. So yeah get me where it hurts - my typing skills ! But seriously - thanks for pointing it out. I could correct it but that would make you look silly rather than me. I’ll not bother. 😂
It is a rookie error, ALWAYS ALWAYS undo the front sprocket nut before you do anything. Simple really. I can’t take anymore of this fella he is useless.
ALWAYS ALWAYS buy tampons before you need them. This isn’t worth bursting into tears over dear.