The light looks great ! 1. Take moisture readings in 2-3 locations before watering. Soil can have dry or wet pockets. 2. Don't leave the meter in the soil. The tines should be wiped dry after every use. 3. Also - Read the directions for PH. some meters require soil contact for 5 minutes to get an accurate reading. Looking forward to the update. :-)
Watched this yesterday morning but just came back to let you know I brought one of those 3 in 1 meters. Wasn't able to use your link unfortunately as Amazon some issue with shipping my location. Found one on ebay. Looks like it may be quite useful. Will be a nice little tool for my small quater acre suburban homestead.
Hey! So I have grown a pineapple from a top. I can say that it will take at least 2.5 years and will probably take up %70 of your grow area. But it is super rewarding when you pick that juicy pine apple after so long! The trick is warmth, lots of light, and water.
Looks great. Missed this whole part of your channel somehow in the past. Curious if covering the food scraps actually does a good job keeping fruit flies at bay. Considering doing this in our garage (no basements in coastal South Carolina) but not sure if that would work (gets very hot in summer and somewhat cold in winter- plus just wondering if they’d be more susceptible to pests with garage door being open sometimes).
I agree with SC Homestead☺ I grow pineapples and they can be 3'-5' minimum grow area. You probably won't be growing anything else there. They will grow well by itself in one of those pots that you would buy a large tree in. I'm not sure of the exact capacity. It does take several years to produce. Good luck🦋🦋
The core coverage is 2x2 on that light which should cover that little bed perfectly. Especially for smaller leafy greens like you'll be growing. No need for 4ft tomatoes in your basement. Also you may need to hand pollinate those peppers to get a good harvest. They do self-pollinate and don't require bees, but with high humidity and no wind the pollen will tend to become sticky and not easily move from flower to flower. It's pretty simple, wait til the lights have been on awhile and the plant can reach peak pollen production, then you can either shake the plant to get the pollen to move or use a makeup/artisan brush or even a cotton swab to collect the pollen from the anthers and touch it to the stigma at the very center of each flower. Great stuff so far!
Testing the pH level in my composter (I'm single and use a barrel style) would be great. Do the worms stay in the container or do they crawl out and into the room? Really good video. Thanks.
Pineapple! I'm in the process of looking for a place to put mine, the window shelf has been removed. I want to do something with my aquariums in the mix.
I'm more curious about your worm planter - do you have holes for drainage in it? Do you still feed them scraps or compost in the mix? Thanks for sharing!
Pineapples take 2 years to grow and they will be as wide as your growing space and about as tall as your light. I'm sorry to say unless you only want a pineapple in your bed, I'd reconsider. Great idea though, we might try an indoor bed this winter!!
Almost all LED grow light manufacturers rate the wattage of their lamps as if the LEDs are being driven at full power. A lamp may have 100 LEDs with each LED capable of being run at 3 watts and the lamp will be marketed as 300 watt lamp. In reality the LEDs may be driven at only 2 watts so the lamp is in reality a 200 watt device. Not running the LEDs at full power decreases the light intensity and also lowers the heat and extends the life of the lamp. Always look at how many watts the lamp actually uses at the wall as that is a more accurate indication of performance. PAR is a more important specification but the meters are expensive and not many average people own one. The more expensive lamps usually list PAR ratings while less expensive lamps may list only lumen output. Most modern LED grow lamps use white LEDs with a color temperature range of 3500 - 5000k and many now have supplemental far red 660 nM LEDs to force flowering / fruiting.
I've noticed that a lot of chinese manufacturers have been putting up "par readings" of their lights. I put it in quotes because it's more than likely copy and pasted. Yeah you're correct, a "1200w led grow light" typically will draw about 200-300 watts from the wall. Which makes it 200-300 true watts. The thing that makes me laugh is when they compare it to HPS. "Equivalent to an 800w HPS". Except an 800w hps actually pulls near 800w from the wall. Led is definitely more efficient though, 1000w double endeds' at full tilt will run at 750c (yikes) and led equivalents can be kept around 40-50c. I've certainly seen examples of some amazing crops with cheap chinese led grow lights. Far reds are 730nm and they don't force flowering or fruiting, it merely sends the plant a signal that its time to. 660nm are typically called "photo red" and I'm not entirely sure what their effects are, although i'd assume similar to 730nm. Most people who run "flower initiators" or 730nm far reds will typically put them on a seperate fixture and only turn that on for 10 minutes or so before/after the lights go out. I haven't read much into far reds, Growmau5 is a guru of information regarding LEDS, and has a video of him making a $20 730nm far red flower initiator. Edit: Super totally not an expert, just picked up an interest in led fixtures recently.
@@jeremyowen1 - 720 nM and up are considered the infrared spectrum, not far red and a "normal" red would be around 625 nM. The infrared LEDs and not the far red LEDs are used in very short timing cycles to trigger the plants. "Medicinal" growers may use a 16 hour on and 8 hour off schedule for veg and a 12 hour on and 12 hour off schedule for floweri with a few supplemental far red LEDs and a few minutes of infrared at the end of the flower on cycle as the trigger. Too much infrared can damage the plants. All white LEDs actually start out blue LEDs. Phosphor is added to the lens to filter the light and change it to white, with the type and amount of phosphor determining the spectrum / K temperature of the white. If you check out warm LEDs the phosphor appears to have a reddish tint while the phosphor of the cooler white LEDs has a yellowish tint. An LED die, the actual light emitting part of an LED, may be used in may different types of packages. The COB (chip on board) LEDs are actually an array of LED dies in one package. The problem with these COBs is the concentrated heat which require a large heat sink and in many cases even a cooling fan. Digikey is now selling Samsung and Bridgelux modules consisting of an aluminum printed circuit board and multiple LEDs in one or two rows suitable for grow lamp building by DIY'ers.
@@goodgoat3096 Oh that's interesting, thanks for the information. I knew about phosphor, still neat to hear someone else explain it. Digikey and Mouser both sell cree, bridgelux and a couple others. I did notice that if you try to look up "730nm" it will come up as "far red". So perhaps it's just one of those misconceptions or misunderstandings in the general populous? Either way, I appreciate the knowledge.
can you give me the link to the light that have's that switch to grow green or flower. btw put one of those lights you made against the wall facing toward the plant I had a big fish tank that I grow plants in had lights on the sides of the tank and up top it did great just something I wanted to sure with you
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THANKS FOR SHARING, CAN YOU POST BEST FRUITS AND VEGGIES TO GROWN INSIDE 24/7 LOW LIGHT IN A BASEMENT? THANKS FOR YOUR HELP.
The light looks great !
1. Take moisture readings in 2-3 locations before watering. Soil can have dry or wet pockets.
2. Don't leave the meter in the soil. The tines should be wiped dry after every use.
3. Also - Read the directions for PH. some meters require soil contact for 5 minutes to get an accurate reading.
Looking forward to the update. :-)
Good to know, thanks!
Miss the aquaponics days
Watched this yesterday morning but just came back to let you know I brought one of those 3 in 1 meters. Wasn't able to use your link unfortunately as Amazon some issue with shipping my location. Found one on ebay.
Looks like it may be quite useful.
Will be a nice little tool for my small quater acre suburban homestead.
Awesome! Yeah I am kind of interested to test soil around here
Hey! So I have grown a pineapple from a top. I can say that it will take at least 2.5 years and will probably take up %70 of your grow area. But it is super rewarding when you pick that juicy pine apple after so long! The trick is warmth, lots of light, and water.
I knew it took awhile but I didn't think 2 years! Note sure I have enough warmth but it is nice and moist and plenty of light
Looks great. Missed this whole part of your channel somehow in the past. Curious if covering the food scraps actually does a good job keeping fruit flies at bay. Considering doing this in our garage (no basements in coastal South Carolina) but not sure if that would work (gets very hot in summer and somewhat cold in winter- plus just wondering if they’d be more susceptible to pests with garage door being open sometimes).
I agree with SC Homestead☺ I grow pineapples and they can be 3'-5' minimum grow area. You probably won't be growing anything else there. They will grow well by itself in one of those pots that you would buy a large tree in. I'm not sure of the exact capacity. It does take several years to produce. Good luck🦋🦋
Good to know, I may move it out to another pot near a window
The core coverage is 2x2 on that light which should cover that little bed perfectly. Especially for smaller leafy greens like you'll be growing. No need for 4ft tomatoes in your basement.
Also you may need to hand pollinate those peppers to get a good harvest. They do self-pollinate and don't require bees, but with high humidity and no wind the pollen will tend to become sticky and not easily move from flower to flower. It's pretty simple, wait til the lights have been on awhile and the plant can reach peak pollen production, then you can either shake the plant to get the pollen to move or use a makeup/artisan brush or even a cotton swab to collect the pollen from the anthers and touch it to the stigma at the very center of each flower. Great stuff so far!
What a great indoor garden! 👍
I love this idea. What's the largest plant that you could grow?
Testing the pH level in my composter (I'm single and use a barrel style) would be great. Do the worms stay in the container or do they crawl out and into the room? Really good video. Thanks.
Worms hate light and they hate to be out of the dirt so they stay right in the container nicely
Pineapple! I'm in the process of looking for a place to put mine, the window shelf has been removed. I want to do something with my aquariums in the mix.
Spongebob!
I'm more curious about your worm planter - do you have holes for drainage in it? Do you still feed them scraps or compost in the mix? Thanks for sharing!
There is a hole in the bottom with a container to collect any run off. We add food scraps and coffee grounds
@@SSLFamilyDad Thanks! It's a great idea.
Pineapples take 2 years to grow and they will be as wide as your growing space and about as tall as your light. I'm sorry to say unless you only want a pineapple in your bed, I'd reconsider. Great idea though, we might try an indoor bed this winter!!
Almost all LED grow light manufacturers rate the wattage of their lamps as if the LEDs are being driven at full power. A lamp may have 100 LEDs with each LED capable of being run at 3 watts and the lamp will be marketed as 300 watt lamp. In reality the LEDs may be driven at only 2 watts so the lamp is in reality a 200 watt device. Not running the LEDs at full power decreases the light intensity and also lowers the heat and extends the life of the lamp. Always look at how many watts the lamp actually uses at the wall as that is a more accurate indication of performance. PAR is a more important specification but the meters are expensive and not many average people own one. The more expensive lamps usually list PAR ratings while less expensive lamps may list only lumen output. Most modern LED grow lamps use white LEDs with a color temperature range of 3500 - 5000k and many now have supplemental far red 660 nM LEDs to force flowering / fruiting.
I've noticed that a lot of chinese manufacturers have been putting up "par readings" of their lights. I put it in quotes because it's more than likely copy and pasted.
Yeah you're correct, a "1200w led grow light" typically will draw about 200-300 watts from the wall. Which makes it 200-300 true watts. The thing that makes me laugh is when they compare it to HPS. "Equivalent to an 800w HPS". Except an 800w hps actually pulls near 800w from the wall.
Led is definitely more efficient though, 1000w double endeds' at full tilt will run at 750c (yikes) and led equivalents can be kept around 40-50c. I've certainly seen examples of some amazing crops with cheap chinese led grow lights.
Far reds are 730nm and they don't force flowering or fruiting, it merely sends the plant a signal that its time to. 660nm are typically called "photo red" and I'm not entirely sure what their effects are, although i'd assume similar to 730nm. Most people who run "flower initiators" or 730nm far reds will typically put them on a seperate fixture and only turn that on for 10 minutes or so before/after the lights go out. I haven't read much into far reds, Growmau5 is a guru of information regarding LEDS, and has a video of him making a $20 730nm far red flower initiator.
Edit: Super totally not an expert, just picked up an interest in led fixtures recently.
@@jeremyowen1 - 720 nM and up are considered the infrared spectrum, not far red and a "normal" red would be around 625 nM. The infrared LEDs and not the far red LEDs are used in very short timing cycles to trigger the plants. "Medicinal" growers may use a 16 hour on and 8 hour off schedule for veg and a 12 hour on and 12 hour off schedule for floweri with a few supplemental far red LEDs and a few minutes of infrared at the end of the flower on cycle as the trigger. Too much infrared can damage the plants. All white LEDs actually start out blue LEDs. Phosphor is added to the lens to filter the light and change it to white, with the type and amount of phosphor determining the spectrum / K temperature of the white. If you check out warm LEDs the phosphor appears to have a reddish tint while the phosphor of the cooler white LEDs has a yellowish tint. An LED die, the actual light emitting part of an LED, may be used in may different types of packages. The COB (chip on board) LEDs are actually an array of LED dies in one package. The problem with these COBs is the concentrated heat which require a large heat sink and in many cases even a cooling fan. Digikey is now selling Samsung and Bridgelux modules consisting of an aluminum printed circuit board and multiple LEDs in one or two rows suitable for grow lamp building by DIY'ers.
@@goodgoat3096 Oh that's interesting, thanks for the information. I knew about phosphor, still neat to hear someone else explain it. Digikey and Mouser both sell cree, bridgelux and a couple others.
I did notice that if you try to look up "730nm" it will come up as "far red". So perhaps it's just one of those misconceptions or misunderstandings in the general populous? Either way, I appreciate the knowledge.
can you give me the link to the light that have's that switch to grow green or flower. btw put one of those lights you made against the wall facing toward the plant I had a big fish tank that I grow plants in had lights on the sides of the tank and up top it did great just something I wanted to sure with you
18 months before the first pineapple.
Not going to grow any "cash crops" are you? ;)
Cotton probably wouldn't do very well.
@@DaybirdAviaries Heh.
😇
Where's your Weed plants at bro?? Lol
Destination Unknown wrong channel.