Thanks for posting this (and your first part 1 video) in English it helped a lot :) The 2013 Kia Ceed shares the same clutch components with the Hyundai I30 which is what I was working on. The car is RHD and the master cylinder is a bit easier to get at in the engine bay. In the I30, you can remove part of the dash under the steering wheel which makes it easier to detach and reattach the plastic clutch actuator rod (remove the dash end fascia first as there are screws under there). The hole in my clutch rod was worn into an oval which meant that the first 3cm of pedal travel just took up the free play and didn't activate the slave cylinder. I also changed the slave cylinder - I found it much easier to jack up the front of the car and remove the undertray, makes it easier to get at the two slave cylinder mounting bolts and easier to get at the bleed nipple. And bonus, fewer cuts from pushing hands down between the radiator and the engine block! ;))
Thank you very much for the feedback. Yes, KIA and Hyundai are sibling companies, and much is essentially the same, just with different designs etc. I started making English videos a few years ago, as not many people speak Norwegian around the world. :) But my English is far from perfect, and many terms can be different even in "English", around the world. But it's good to hear that my honest attempts can be of help. I think the solution on my car was flawed. The potential for plastic parts to fail is very high. It's a shame that today's car industry uses more and more plastic, where one can only expect that these parts will fail over time. Greeting Pål (Paul)
Hi On this car, the clutch would not release as it should. You had to pump the pedal in order to change gears. First, I checked and replaced the slave cylinder, down on the gearbox. It was defective and leaking! But even after replacing it, the problem still wasn't completely gone. It had improved, but the pedal didn't quite hold the pressure. Then the next source of error was that the master cylinder on the torpedo wall (behind the pedal) also lost pressure. Greetings Pål
@@OneTwo4 Hi Yes, there wasn't much wrong, but there won't be much more, before it's completely impossible to fix. But a little work, then it worked :) Greetings Pål
Good day! If you can't get pressure down to the slave cylinder and it doesn't seem to leak like mine does? Then the master cylinder could be bad, or the pipe clogged? It should probably be possible to push through liquid, once you have unscrewed the air nipple. But be careful not to get too little brake fluid in the container! It's okay not to have to bleed the brakes again in the end too. Greeting Pål (Paul)
Thanks for posting this (and your first part 1 video) in English it helped a lot :) The 2013 Kia Ceed shares the same clutch components with the Hyundai I30 which is what I was working on. The car is RHD and the master cylinder is a bit easier to get at in the engine bay. In the I30, you can remove part of the dash under the steering wheel which makes it easier to detach and reattach the plastic clutch actuator rod (remove the dash end fascia first as there are screws under there). The hole in my clutch rod was worn into an oval which meant that the first 3cm of pedal travel just took up the free play and didn't activate the slave cylinder. I also changed the slave cylinder - I found it much easier to jack up the front of the car and remove the undertray, makes it easier to get at the two slave cylinder mounting bolts and easier to get at the bleed nipple. And bonus, fewer cuts from pushing hands down between the radiator and the engine block! ;))
Thank you very much for the feedback.
Yes, KIA and Hyundai are sibling companies, and much is essentially the same, just with different designs etc.
I started making English videos a few years ago, as not many people speak Norwegian around the world. :)
But my English is far from perfect, and many terms can be different even in "English", around the world. But it's good to hear that my honest attempts can be of help.
I think the solution on my car was flawed. The potential for plastic parts to fail is very high. It's a shame that today's car industry uses more and more plastic, where one can only expect that these parts will fail over time.
Greeting
Pål (Paul)
Did not know about the slave cylinder. Until I looked at parts, then videos on RUclips. Thank you.
Hello.
You learn something new weather day! Good to be able to help with new info!
Greeting
Pål (Paul)
Really helpful, thank you for posting!
Thank you very much for the feedback!
Glad to see I can help!
Regards
Pål (Paul)
tack
It's nice to be of help! :)
How you find out that master cylinder requires replacement?
Hi
On this car, the clutch would not release as it should. You had to pump the pedal in order to change gears.
First, I checked and replaced the slave cylinder, down on the gearbox. It was defective and leaking!
But even after replacing it, the problem still wasn't completely gone. It had improved, but the pedal didn't quite hold the pressure.
Then the next source of error was that the master cylinder on the torpedo wall (behind the pedal) also lost pressure.
Greetings Pål
Same issue, there’s a small play between clutch pedal and master cylinder..have to change it all
@@OneTwo4 Hi
Yes, there wasn't much wrong, but there won't be much more, before it's completely impossible to fix. But a little work, then it worked :)
Greetings Pål
I hope my slave isn't bad ,i just cant get it to bleed off
Good day!
If you can't get pressure down to the slave cylinder and it doesn't seem to leak like mine does? Then the master cylinder could be bad, or the pipe clogged?
It should probably be possible to push through liquid, once you have unscrewed the air nipple.
But be careful not to get too little brake fluid in the container! It's okay not to have to bleed the brakes again in the end too.
Greeting
Pål (Paul)