IBM 5162 XT/286 & 5154 EGA Restoration. Aka "The Grinch"
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- Опубликовано: 22 дек 2023
- I got a very fancy Christmas present last Christmas. For this year's Christmas, I wanted to get it working. Unfortunately, I was in for a surprise, or two...
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Tools I regularly use
DeoxIT D5 Contact Cleaner
Hanstar 861DW Rework Station
Pro'sKit SS-331 Desoldering Station
UNI-T UT61E Auto Ranging Multimeter
UNI-T UT890D Manual Ranging Multimeter
MESR-100 mk2 ESR meeter
PINECIL Soldering Iron
PinePowerPSU
TS-100 Soldering Iron
AMTECH NC-559-ASM Flux
Kester 951 Flux pen
MaAnt Grinding Pen
Multicore 60/40. 0.38mm and 0.5mm solder
TL866 II Plus Programmer
RIGOL DHO800 70MHz four-channel digital scope
Tektronix 2246A 100 MHz four-channel analog scope
InfiRay P2 Pro Thermal Camera
PCBs from PCBWay.com :)
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Music by Karl Casey @ White Bat Audio 
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Hmm I'd try using a known good card with it first. Eliminate that EGA card not working as that beeping makes me think it's not initializing the video. It's very important the video settings on the motherboard match the card you're using as well.
That 40 pin is likely a microcontroller with a flashable internal ROM. Quite sure it can't just be copied and it's likely the keyboard controller. I don't see how it could be erased sealed up inside a metal box since the 80s.
Oh, thanks, I assumed that was just a regular EPROM. Yeah, I somehow just expected this system to magically work, It's almost Christmas after all :) I'll do some more testing with known good parts next
Monotech makes the RAM card for the EGA card. Can't post the link here. He only charges $50 for it.
Thanks Adrian. I'll order a card. Should make for an interesting comparison between games running on CGA and EGA displays hocked up to EGA adapters
It wouldn't surprise me if that 286 was an 8 or 10MHz part that IBM marked as 6. They were always really conservative with stuff like that. IBM did the same thing with their own line of Cyrix 5x86 parts.
Excellent, We'll push it and see how fast it will go!
The cap you used to replace the RIFA should be changed, it prevents high frequency noise from going back into the mains. The much smaller cap will filter different frequencies as compared to the RIFA. I am pretty certain the smaller cap won't harm the PSU nor the computer, but noise on the mains is a concern.
yeah, I'd better order a 0.47 cap and replace it
Is there a downloadable picture that shows capacitor/resistor/chips what they do/name/most important, what replacements should or could be used? Im a self taught tinkerer and I soend so much time researching that so an interchange poster would be so useful!
@@95Comics Do you mean, you need a list of the tantalums on the 5162 motherboard?
@@Epictronics1 well specifically yea but i was thinking in broad terms for beginners on any board. A way to determine what each one does as well as modern equivalents or compatible components to make it easier to identify what is needed and how to improve it while replacing if possible. Just like a guide to bringing old electronics into modern electronics
You could eliminate that input filter board entirely and not see any ill effects. It’s true the filter reduces conducted emissions from switching power supply back into the line but other than meeting an absurdly restrictive FCC requirement the filter does nothing useful. The smaller capacitor makes the filter less effective than designed but the juice is not worth the squeeze. I’m confident that all those cheap Amazon power bricks in your neighborhood are injecting 1000 times more conducted emissions than that power supply with the small cap.
I got a 5162 in great condition from Facebook marketplace for $10!!! And it had the ega card, ram expansion, and working mfm drive. 😃
Sweet!
I have lost count of how many of these 286 machines I tipped. We got rid of loads from work that were stored, I asked and got them. They were used to repair friends and family computers. The carcasses of so many of these were dumped in the early 2000's. :(
That's what's being done with 10-15 year old PC now. I wonder if they ever become classics?
I've just had a look at the amibios codes and 10 means "ready to start base 64K test" and three short beeps means "base 64k test failed" so there may still be something with the RAM. Also some of the capacitors in the 5154 look like they're bulging, it may be worth to have a look at them.
Thanks, the base 64k are in the two SIMMs. Unfortunately, swapping them with tested SIMMs didn't help
Lmao that capturing the magic smoke made me chuckle.
Now you have me feeling bad about all the old computers I've tossed out over the years.
We all did. I wonder if the PCs we recycle now are going to be classics too
that white 'fur' on those pots is something that leaches out of the plastic their cases are made of, i've seen it on many items made of that type plastic whatever it is (some sort of fibre containing stuff, i think?).. it can cause corrosion on metals and for bad contacts in pots, good idea to make a note of the pot positions, squirt with lubricating contact cleaner , then rotate back n forth a few times then back to original position ..
I'll make sure to do that, thanks
I can happily say that I am the proud owner of one of these although it hasn't been used in a few years. The owner at first didn't want to sell it (I was there to buy a Tandy but then I saw the IBM) but after a few years,he sent me a message I could buy it.I didn't even know about this model at first.Over here,all the 51XX models seem to get rare sadly.
Does yours also have that strange badge on the case under the board near the speaker? If so, what number is it, and does that match the number on the board?
@@JarrodCoombes I'll need to open it up but might not be today :) I can't remember that I saw it when I opened it quite a while ago.
I had to revive my IBM 486 computer about 2 years ago, one day it was completely dead after it been unused a couple of month. turned out every single electrolytic cap in the power supply had started to leak electrolyte through the rubber seal under them corroding the whole board and killed it. I did however manage to save it in time before it was beyond repair, a deep clean and re-cap revived the supply to full working order again. but the the electrolytic caps on the motherboard was bad too plus other issues. But it works again now after it was re-cap too. I had to re-cap my Siemens P133 motherboard too because of leaking seals under the caps too. I see this very often these days that caps from the 80:s and 90:s have gotten old enough to leak, often Nichicon and better branded caps. You really should examine old gear very carefully for this because these caps don´t swell or anything, they silently leak and the PCB soaks up the electrolyte and the traces corrodes away. you can only see this faintly that dust can get a bit moist around leaky caps. If I plan to use old computers like this in a regular way and one cap fails I take the time to re-cap it all. there is no shortcut for a good result. electrolytic fail more often than tantalums. Rifa and transparent potted caps like they are should be replaced on sight. Capacitors are the killer of old electronics for sure
I too have an IBM EGA card with no memory board. I was able to find a clone for that memory expansion from Monotech Vintage PCs. I haven't ordered mine yet so I can't say much else about it but clones do indeed exist for those!
I have a 5150 with a 5154 and expansion unit, the 5154 had standard RIFA X2 caps in the power supply, replaced them and all the electrolytic caps.
The Grinch stole Christmas!!
I used to work on those monitors back in the 90's and I would break those ALL of the time, and didn't give a crap. As long as the monitor worked, I didn't care. NOW though, I recognize the error of my ways. I was young and stupid.
The gift that keeps on giving
Those are the best gifts
I seriously doubt that the EPROM inside a closed case has been erased. It is extremely difficult to erase such a chip with daylight. Even after almost 40 years.
Even if it wasn't erased, ROMs of all types suffer from bit rot. There's still a very real possibility that the data in that chip is corrupted.
Yea, it's an extremely common misconception that EPROMs can be damaged if there's no sticker over the window. The absolute magnitude of UV that chip erasers put out per square cm will surpass anything the sun can hope for at this distance. And it can still take hours to fully erase a chip. EPROMs are not fragile.
And "bit rot" as a term is thrown around to the point where it doesn't even mean anything anymore. Any IC can deteriorate over time internally determined by the quality of the materials used and the manufacturing method. But to single out the EPROM over anything else makes little sense in this case.
@@Darxide23 I never rule out the ROM. I had to buy a ROM programmer a few years ago because of the volume of devices I've encountered with corrupted ROMs, both new and old.
I've been lucky in most cases and a good image has been available on the internet to reprogram them. There have been a few unfortunate cases where I wasn't. I still have an old Toshiba laptop with a corrupted BIOS where no image is available, just a proprietary flasher that runs on the machine itself. And since the machine doesn't boot properly, there's a chicken and egg problem.
@@GGigabiteM I may be able to extract the bios image out of the flasher software. If you could post the model of the laptop or name of the flasher software I could go and look for the flasher software (I am going to guess that any web links are going to get deleted).
@@samt4202 I haven't looked at the laptop in awhile, but I believe it's a Toshiba 4700CT. You'd be correct with links, I can't post them or YT nukes the comment.
The only binary I could find seemed to have BIOS images for several laptops embedded in it and possibly compressed. I couldn't make any sense of the structure of the executable, but I'm not a programmer so I had no idea what to look for.
Component legs being bent and then soldered - yeah, that gave a friend of mine and me quite a few headaches in an IBM PCB. We needed to replace a few components, which ended up being a 2 person job. One propped up the pretty large and unwieldy PCB and exerted some gentle pulling force on the component, the other applied the soldering iron / desolder pump. What a royal pain in the neck...
The rail prolly came with drive and the person who installed the drive put the rail on the outside so it wouldn't get lost incase they needed it in the future. I've done that back in day many times and ended up needing them on other systems and knew where they were when I needed them.
Nice fight - hoping for a good ending :). Stay determined and Keri on! You'll get there.
Jar of magic smoke - that was so very funny. 😀
I always enjoy these vireos even though I don't have an early machine and lack experience with anything before Windows 3.11. You may be reaching a wider audience than you ever intended! 😊
A 286 running 3.1 was my very first wintel PC. That combo too me is perfect retro!
@@Epictronics1 My first pc was either a PC or XT ibm with DOS and CGA graphics. This would have been sometime in the mid 1990s. We were pretty poor, so we were given a hand me down computer from a coworker at my mother's job.
Merry chrismas to you! I spent my holidays restoring 3 8" floppy drives, those were a challenge to get up and running. Nice IBM
Thanks! Very cool with 8" drives
I'm pretty confident that the 5162 was a bit of a "Hail Mary" project by IBM to get rid of the manufacturing excess of 5150 style cases, which they could no longer use for the upcoming PS/2. So they haphazardly modified an AT board to fit inside the 5150 case which lead to the tradeoffs in this particular machine.
This is crazy! I'm making the exact same video as this for my channel! 😂 I have 5162 with 5154. FYI I can confirm that the panel on the right of the hard drive is not present on my machine.
Excellent! looking very much forward to watching your video :)
@@Epictronics1 I've just sent you a tweet with my email address so I can dump that EEPROM for you.
@@Epictronics1Also not present on my 5162 either. @AlsGeekLab - I am very curious if yours has that same strange badge under the board near the speaker.
Merry Christmas!
Merry Christmas Tommy!
In my experience, when the line filter capacitors are old, almost all manufacturers/types explode, regardless of whether they are Rifa, Wima or ERO. I have had all types explode in my IBMs. btw. nice video! and which you a merry chrismas and happy new year
Thanks! Merry Christmas and Happy New Year
Awesome video. We are looking forward to seeing a new video of digital microscope soon.
"before you take out a 2nd mortgage"
Too real man, too real. eBay prices on vintage gear is insane!
I wish it wasn't so bro
wonder if thats really bubble RAM? because the bubble ram chips i've seen have been much bigger (maybe 4x the size). Thanks for the nice video, was very interesting and merry christmas 🌲
This is not bubble ram. It's just normal ram with a different wafer package. IBM used these metal-can-packages a lot!
bubbleram also is in no way compatible with dram, so it would never sit in a regular simm-socket. It also is nonvolatile and more comparable to a harddrive.
The XT/286 is my personal Holy Grail. Really enjoyed this video 🙂
I also obtained a Kaiweets meter. Worked great until it decided to stop measuring. I'm using good cables and everything, and the display shows that everything is normal, but it won't acknowledge that anything in the real world exists. Sigh.
Yeah, despite being a Grinch full of dead spiders and dust, I'm super happy about this system
MOOOO!!! I don't know if it is true with the IBM, but in Konami Arcade boards like Gradius the bubble ram needs to be warmed up before it functions properly. Maybe some day you will get a Coleco Adam computer! MOOOOOO!!!
Maybe a small cable-tie around that HDD Molex, ie, extra strength.
That could work. The connector has two tabs that are suppose to hold it to the PCB, but they are both broken off
The screwdriver you used on the monitor looks like a pozidrive, while it will work in a pinch you should really use a Phillips driver on those
The monitor had a mix of Pozi and Phillips. Very annoying, I may very well have used the wrong screwdriver several times :)
Reminds of me of the Commodore Vic-20 I got for Christmas long long ago that didn't work. No fun getting a computer for Christmas and having to wait until after to get one that works. 😉
Oh, that sucks! I don't think I could have ever recovered from getting a broken VIC back in the day for Christmas!
@@Epictronics1 It did work out for me though. My parents were so upset that I got a C64 instead. Thank heavens for knowing more about computers than my parents. 😁
@@JenniferinIllinois oh, excellent! The C64 was my very first computer back in 1985!
Steven work many years for IBM and have a 5150, 5160 and a 5170 to his collection. The last time, he works on the 5170. All of the system are running very well
Very nice collection. I'm still looking for a 5170
Who are you talking about?
Steven is my boyfriend and he knows Epictronics@@2dfx
You can test the machine without anything installed where the RIFA caps went, but you should definitely get the right X2 type capacitor in there.
Oh dear I spent a month fixing one of these once.. Boy did that thing kick my @ss! Giant PITA to get working.. I guess that one is a Grinch too but my friend was very happy when it finally came to life in all of its 0ws glory!🙂
Oh man, I hope this one doesn't take months!
@@Epictronics1 If you need help: Let me know!
@@pipschannel1222 I do, lol. So, the problem with your friends 5162 was bad BIOS chips? (bitrot? )
@@Epictronics1 Yeah bad BIOS EPROMs indeed but also a a whole bunch of other issues, including BIOS chip select logic failures, delay line failure and about six 7400 ICs giving the ghost and also some bad traces. Thing must've been struck by lightning or something. I managed to fix it though and I overclocked it to 8MHz after replacing the DRAM.
Be glad yours posts! ;-)
@@pipschannel1222 Holly crap, that makes me wonder if the power supply has a design flaw. Spikes? Overvoltage? I have only checked the voltages, they are okay on this 5162.
I still remember when I had an EGA monitor and it "died". The picture was still there, but it shrank down to a 1"x1" display (I think that's 3cm² approximately). If you squinted hard you could read everything, but damn......lol Fortunately I already had a VGA monitor. I even knew how to upgrade the graphics (and had one), but I wasn't allowed to do the work without my dad. My dad watched and pretty much did nothing. It worked perfectly. lol I guess I shouldn't be too surprised. I did fry 2 computers at the same time. lol My intention was to swap the bios chips, but I got a massive jolt of static while handling them. I actually do not know if they were bios chips or not. I just remember they had the same number of pins and were both in sockets.
Haha, love war stories. I remember when I decided to have a "peak" inside our Hi-fi system as a kid. I never figured out how to put it back together :D
@@Epictronics1 oh yeah..... the most dangerous object in our house was a screwdriver. Because I wasn't afraid to use it. LMAO
I have a 5154 were the same cap blew with loads of smoke. I replaced all of them, just as you did in the video and I have exactly the same issue as yours with my 5154. High voltage is on, but no image. I really hope you do a followup video on yours!
We'll figure it out, stay tuned
My impression is that electrolytic capacitors eventually will fail, but I'm not sure if that's correct. I have a Sansui audio amp from 1975 that started crackling on one of the channels. I took it to a local guy who works on this stuff, and he told me that if I hadn't done something about it, one of those huge ones would have failed within several months to about a year, tops, and probably fried the thing.
I was a fool with my 5154, I plugged it in and just sent it without checking. It worked but was very dim, I had to crank the brightness to see anything but it was indeed showing RAM being counted from the XT. Then, after about three minutes of over-driving the brightness loud pop and billowing smoke, but the screen didn't even flicker. It was still working while smoke poured out of it. I haven't touched it since the explosion but maybe this is the inspiration I need to drill out those rivets!
@@BurritoVampire Good luck with the project!
Is the 40 pin "EPROM" not a 8042 keyboard micro controller ? , i don't think they had 16 bit 40 EPROMS back then.
Also, did you try the EGA card with the original switch settings , you seemed to change them to a mirror image of the original setting.
It seems strange that it would have been set to and invalid setting and quite often, on and off, up and down get mixed up on these DIP switches.
I set the switched according to minus zero degrees. I'll double check or course. (yes, I was misstaken about the 8042 being a regular EPROM)
The rail on the side of the hard drive I think is for the 2nd floppy drive if it was installed.
The X Cap you can omit.
Its not an input filter cap its an output filter cap.
As in filtering the stuff that the Power Supply sends to the grid, at least a bit...
Thus you should use them, if you can. But if you don't have the right one, you can just use it without and put one in later.
Regarding the monitor, I noticed that the EGA monitor remains black while the CGA monitor goes white when no signal is applied. My first monitor was a Salora (a brand that became Nokia later on and was OEM manufacturer for IBM CGA and EGA monitors - the monitor looked like the 5153/5154 just with a Salora badge on it). I'm pretty sure it was an EGA monitor, as the Sanyo PC it came with had an EGA card installed and I think I also played some games that profited from EGA 64 color like "Ivan 'Ironman' Stewarts Super Off Road". And this Salora Multiscan (EGA? Likely!) display also went white when turning on. So I'm pretty sure your 5154 also would go white without the computer turned on, so this should be what you should look for.
Regarding the weird EPROM with the window not covered, could this be an early revision of the 8042 a.k.a. AT Keyboard Controller? Actually, the 8042 is a microcontroller with internal EPROM that can be anything you program it to be. Later keyboard controllers like the AMIKEY had the microcode factory-installed, as far as I know without a way to alter it, while a plain 8042 can be flashed with microcode for what it should do - like being a keyboard controller. I think these cannot be read and written in normal EPROM programmes like the TL866. If you find 8042 written on it, you might want to try inserting an AMIKEY or something similar in the socket. Normally this should not prevent the machine from booting - but it could (e.g. when A20 is held high or the BIOS stops posting when the keyboard controller is broken). A generic modern keyboard controller might partially solve your problem, but I made the experience that different controllers use different timings that can make the keyboard go crazy (see the video "The RUclips 486..." on my channel).
Yes, I think there is an interesting story here with IBMs lineup of displays and Nokia for sure. I forgot to check all the stamps and text in the solder mask for clues. I'll check when we do the repair video. So, is there a direct replacement for the EPROM 8042 chip? I'm sure I have one if I know what to look for. That could be a good quick test before we proceed?
@@Epictronics1 The chip has an Intel marking (however, I cannot read more on the video) and has a DIP40 package. This could point to a plain, original 8042. Just look on the chip markings. As said, the 8042 is a programmable microcontroller with a small EPROM for the code running on it. This could be a plain, programmable 8042, however I think it is not possible to obtian microcode and program it with hobbyist means like the standard TL866 (my TL866-II does not list a 8042 in the list of programmable chips - maybe the older one still has). So if this chip is marked 8042, it might be worth a try pulling a keyboard controller from another modern AT 386/486 board like an AMIKEY-II, Holtek, Winbond, whatever. These are 8042-compatible chips with the microcode for keyboard controller permanently installed.
As also said, the chances are quite low that this is the problem, however, if the BIOS stops on a faulty keyboard controller, or the microcode is erased which causes the pin for Address Line A20 (which is controlled by the keyboard controller on the 286) remains high or floating when no microcode is started, it could be the root cause. Other keyboard controllers might cause funny keyboard behavior as I experienced through my 486 repair from the mentioned video, but at least you get a running system with a funny behaving keyboard. Then it would be up to you to find a matching replacement (I still have some Amikey-II and a Holtek that were donated through the 486 repair, depending on where you live, I could send them to you just for the postage price if you need them - Germany or EU would be easy, outside EU, I think it would be cheaper for you to search on local Ebay etc.). But I think you should find a temporary donor board in your collection first.
@@retro-futuristicengineer Thanks, Unless, I find something else, the 8042 is my only clue right now. However unlikely it might be that it has been damaged with light. I have other IBM 286 systems that can lend a chip if it matches. I'll do some reading about that 8042 before I proceed
"cleaning is not fun to watch"
*looks at the restoration channel I'm frequently recommended where cleaning is basically all there is*
Blockout (which is one of my favorite games) runs in EGA hires mode (which requires the extra video RAM). Also Windows 3.1 can run in EGA hires. And there's a Pac Man clone called CD-MAN which also runs in EGA hires and looks gorgeous and has multiple levels.
Sounds like fun. I'll get one of those expansion cards
EGATrek and Captain Comic might be some other shareware games to checkout :)
Just have to say, at someone who works in tech support, hearing something that powers on be described as "completely dead" actually turn on and have like, some signs of life is horribly triggering 😂. So many examples of "doesn't turn on" referring to "citrix doesn't start", and so you get confused when you show up to the PC and it does in fact turn on.
The post and beep codes tell me it probably failed its initial RAM tests. At least the 286 BIOS gives codes on those POST cards. A regular XT just shows random garbage.
That big EPROM is the keyboard controller. If it lost its program, it's possible to replace it with any other 8042 without causing damage, such as from another 286/386/486 motherboard that has one. They might not work, but they won't hurt anything.
Reprogramming the existing 8042 probably isn't worth pursuing unless you either want an excuse to spend money on a new universal programmer, or you know someone who already has one and can program it for you.
Thanks. I have tested the two SIMMs in another IBM and disabled the onboard RAM
Wow, this one is really fighting you. You’ll get it figured out! Minus zero degrees doesn’t have the ROM file you need?
Troubleshooting has led me in another direction now. I now have a fault code in florescent Grinch-green on the screen :)
The IBM 5162 isn't as rare as you think... I have 10 of them in my basement. I purchased all of them from a company I used to work for when they went out of business. I paid $100 for all 10 of them because none of them worked at the time. I also have 10 IBM 5150 motherboards I purchased off of eBay sometime early 1994 or so. Could have been 1995. I was going to swap out the 5162's for the 5150's until I found out that the power supplies were bad and not the computer itself.
You better checking the asking prices on eBay. You made a sweet deal
@@Epictronics1 At the moment there is only one listed on eBay and it is with a monitor. I don't have the corresponding monitor, only the computer. Still at half the price of the one listed, seems to be a good deal until I list all 10 and the price goes to $100 for all 10.
I saw magic smoke in the title, I’m watching 😊
I'v had magic smoke in the studio before, but nothing like this 5154!
@@Epictronics1 yes, it is really stubborn machine. I hope you will be able to fix at least one of those two devices 🤞🏻. Happy Holidays! 🎄
@@SergiuszRoszczyk We'll get there. Happy Holidays!
AT 23:30, it looks like the RIFA X2 cap could be unsoldered from the side, so the PCB perhaps did not need to be removed.
Yes, If you don't plan to replace the RIFA, you could remove it without removing the PCB
What kind of pen are those that you use? The green and red ones... i liked. Thanks for your videos.
Those are Pilot Pintor
37:18 yeah, things work better when they're plugged in.
I used this machine in 1987 using a Lotus123 spreadsheet during my summer job.
Very cool machine. But you should have played some DOS games instead ;)
@Epictronics1 I was a college student making money for living expenses the following year. I wish I could have been paid for games but instead got paid to put the tasks of a shipping/receiving department into manageable spreadsheets.
i used to have a 5154 but dumped it in the mid 2000s as i had to get out of storage space quickly 😢 it worked...ok.. .. but tube was quite a bit low emission
We all did the same misstake
Greetings from Steven from the Netherlands
Doesn't Jasmijn let you create your own account?
Steven is terminally ill and so he uses my account@@Okurka.
20:37 If you don't have a security bit for those screws you can always attack them with a Dremel.
Oh god no
A Dremel is the only acceptable way to remove the fastener if this is a prototype machine. /s
Joking aside, if you find yourself in the situation where you can't take a trip to the hardware store / they don't carry the bit you need, you can get a small flat blade screwdriver in there and use it and a hammer to chisel/break off the post in the middle of the fastener that makes it incompatible with a regular Torx driver.
Genau so einen Personalcomputer hatte ich so um 1986 . Und im Jahr 2011 Ging er plötzlich nicht mehr an .😢
Check with your local vintage computer club. Maybe someone there can help you fix it
Amazing garbage ! i like !
nice pc :D i miss this my coolection :P ibm 5170 5150 5100 and pc jr i have a old xt type :P
5100, wow, I'd love to find one of those someday
half year ago i found one 64kb version with two languages apl and basic very good condition put pretty expensive 7k usd i pay from ebay and + i lucky for delivering this my country i,m from hungarian and ebay sellers not many stuffs delivery her
cassete only for i not found a 5100 :P if i did it found empty cassete i upload videos for ibm 5100 how to apl programing :)
hi again i forgoten asking to you don,t have some acquaintance who have the ibm 5100 computer the ibm 5106 external cassete drive? this for i search my ibm 5100 max 1000 usd price thanks forward a check :)
@@user-cf7to8zv3x If I did, I'd snatch it myself
Oooh it's A wima xD they produce them in Aurich Germany i drive by thair factory every work day.
You may want to stop by some day and ask them why they make exploding caps ;)
I also doubt the EPROM is corrupt, you need serious UV to hurt that puppy, however. I have both a IBM 5162 XT and a MiniPro programmer, hope it can read it if you really want...
Thanks.I appreciate that. Several comments indicate that the i8742 is, as you say ok. I did some progress with the board today actually. The fault is definitely related to the two SIMMs. Unfortunately, replacing them and cleaning the slots didn't help
I remember it not working with just any SIMMs, mine came with two MH25609BJ-15 (2x256kB @150ns).
@@Epictronics1
Thanks for another good video. I am rebuilding my first PC (Baby AT system, originally a 486 VLB DX2-66) from the mid 90's and it's missing the MHZ display (got
removed) one with two full digits and a one, and with jumper settings. But i have now a working replacement, only that it has 3 full digits,
is not controlled by jumpers but by a chip. Also has a changable battery on there, a small LR41 coincell battery. It will work in my
case but i am wondering how to set up this thing to show the correct MHZ??. It has 10 pins and they read from the left. LTHRR+-SST. PD
900 also on the board.
Thanks. Unfortunately, I don't know anything about that chip. Try to find the datasheet. It should tell you all you need to know
I see you did a reupload & refer this to "The Grinch" just as I was thinking in the original clip! 😉
Yes! Great project name, thanks! I managed to free up one more hour today to do some more troubleshooting. I decided to add it to the video and re-upload it. Skip to 43:54 to see the added part. Cheers!
@@Epictronics1 Definitely made sure to check that out, hopefully a reprogram does the trick!
@@maxtornogood fingers crossed 🤞
If thats ultra rare then i guess the IBM 5251 Display Terminal is super ultra rare then.
You got one of those? very cool
i had one as a child.
looks like the last eeprom is not an eeprom, but a keyboard controller (found better image of it, and it says i8742 - this is eeprom version of i8042)
A rare collectible IBM?
Better shove a paperclip into the power leads.
you can probably 3d print a battery case, holding a coin cell.
The rail you wondered is there because it's an extra, it's essentially in storage, if you want to install an extra drive.
Ohh please can you help me identifing a green resitor with 100R written on it ? it resemble the 15R resistor you've shown on the board
Sure. Could you be more specific?
Have you caught a cold? If so, get well, soon. If not, your audio equipment might have messed up the pitch of your voice.
Yes, I'm a bit under the weather. Thanks
Is that realky bibble memory is it jusy nornal dram in those funny silver ic pwckages ibm used to use?
No, I was incorrect. Apparently, those are just look-alikes
On the 5154 you have to pull out the contrast knob to adjust it. Not sure if I saw you do this or not, but perhaps worth a try?
I noticed after I had made the video. I'll test and see if it makes any difference, thanks
Nice video! Would that PSU fit in a regular PC/XT? I’m current living with a regular AT PSU hanging on behind and outside my PC case. Would have been nice if it fit inside…
It looked similar but I didn't try to fit it in the XT. I suppose these are too rare to install in anything but one of the remaining 5162s. If you can't find a spare PSU, an option could be to modify and use a modern PC PSU.
Thanks, it’s just interesting that manages to fit AT power Intel what looks like a PC/XT package. yes, if I can’t fix the original psu I’ll probably put a modern one in the old case.
@@retrotechguy You got the original PSU case? There are small enough power supplies that would fit inside. That way you would keep the original look
Yes, I have the original case - I’ll definitely look into putting something small and modern inside, thanks!
although that cap isnt a RIFA, it looks same/similar type construction! may still use a paper based dielectric but different encapsulant?
i've come across many WIMA branded brown covered caps in vintage radios and almost always gone electrically leaky
Yes, aside from being covered in that blue paint, they look very similar
@@Epictronics1 the datasheet for the current RIFAs of the same style says theyre still using paper dielectric, so dunno if i'd advise new ones of that type! maybe fit polypropylene based ones, less chance of failure although it can obviously still occur, especially if your mains is a bit 'spiky'
speaking of leaky batteries. About a week ago I'm like.....my TV is 10 years old. I don't recall replacing the batteries in the remote ever. And then the next day it didn't work. So I pulled them out......they leaked. fun times. I have newer batteries in it. It's not working fantastically. Probably because of the corrosion. I do have new batteries, but until I clean it I don't see much of a point. I think the current batteries are like 5 years old. I do plan on fixing it soon. I have vinegar.
darn those batteries. Modern batteries don't seem to be much better either
@@Epictronics1 AAA (and AA) batteries haven't changed much in the last 40 years. lol
Maybe some de-oxit in the memory and isa slots
I'm working on the board right now actually. I've done some progress. The problem is definitely related to the two SIMMs. Unfortunately deoxit and tested SIMMs didn't help
My 5162 has that same badge under the board near the speaker, but it says 443, and unlike yours it does not match the board, which says 435 on it. I have always wanted to know what that means, but up until your video, I thought mine was the only one that had that badge.
Very intriguing!
Serial number? If it's such a grand badge it could be that IBM deliberately made that a limited edition, and only a small amount were constructed, or only the first 500 could have been some special edition.
In that case matching case 466 and board 466 means it's a gem.
@@Stoney3K That would be very cool
@@Stoney3K If it's a serial number, then it's something internal to IBM as there is also an external aerial number on the outside of the case that has no correlation that I can tell.
in that screen near the end it did boot was counting the ram at 42.25 just after that near there it was counting the ram go have look it was there then you turned it off !!!
I don't see it. You mean 42:50?
I am currently watching your video, while the 5162 is listed as an XT, it's technically an AT.
an AT in disguise!
@@Epictronics1 Yes sir. Thank for all of the episodes. My first PC was a 5150 then a company called 5 Star.
It's an AT but only in a different box. Is the board even an AT form factor?
@@Stoney3K According to Wiki, this is the original baby AT "In 1987, the Baby AT form factor was introduced, based on the motherboard found in the IBM PC/XT 286 (5162)"
@@Epictronics1 So in theory you could build a sleeper system with a P2 and a Voodoo board? Is the power supply a regular AT?
8:29 - you can't see anything wrong with this board? What about the crappy ROE capacitors?
That's new to me. Are they more prone to fail than other caps from 1986?
@@Epictronics1 well, it's hit and miss, there are reports that some fail with short, if the fuse in c64 psu fails (I had that 2 or 3 times) it's the ROE capacitor. We may have other psu (230v, pal, Austria) than other countries but my experience with it is pretty bad. Not all values but they suck in general.
“pee-sa-bee”
I didn't know the Grinch's heart was a 286
I have always considered myself a grinch. Maybe, I'm running a 286 too
@@Epictronics1 The Grinch who stole 286mas
@@jacobmckenna8661 lol, well maybe, next year I'll have a 286mas
I am coveting the keyboard.
It's amazing. It only hurts when you pay for it :)
@@Epictronics1 I bought one of the reproductions, and my experience with the keyboard itself has basically been perfect. My only complaint is that it takes so long even to get replacement parts shipped because the guy apparently has such a massive backlog all the time. I have not had any problems whatsoever with the keyboard itself. I had looked around for an original one, but they were all costly enough that it didn't make sense to buy one. Really, with the amount of disposable income I have, I had no business venturing down this rabbit hole to begin with, but I couldn't help myself. Growing up in the 80s and 90s, my father worked for a company that used all IBM stuff, and they had so many extra keyboards that he had accumulated a cache of them over the years (all model Ms) that was only finally exhausted around 2016. If I had ever known that the model F was going to be so expensive, they probably had some of those, too, but I didn't even know there was much of a difference back then. I was worried when I ordered this that the difference was going to turn out to be overhyped, but it wasn't. It turned out to be even greater than I had thought it would be. I also learned (the hard way) that buying a used model M is a bad idea (unless you want to bolt mod it, which I don't have the tools to do, and I'm not that handy to begin with) because the rivets either have failed or will likely fail. Ever since people started making videos about them on RUclips, the prices are just ludicrously high. That machine you have is quite a find even just for the keyboard.
I have *no idea* how there is so little dust--unless it was barely used or something (?) It defies reason. I have never seen any computer that's been used, period, with so little dust.
@@bsadewitz Yes, the 5162, the 5154 and the F-AT were extremely lucky finds! But I took my time and waited for years before placing any bids. I have been messing around with vintage stuff sins it was new and know to appreciate what I have. Regarding the the Model M, I'm planning to make a bolt mod video if it's of any help.
Moo moo🤔🙃🤡
31:44 Could that be the production number?
Not only are they impractical today but repairing them is impractical and very dangerous. Even if you know a shop that can do it that may be expensive. It is OK if you don't mind paying and want it for nostalgic reasons but for any other reason I would skip old tech like that.