You will fix it and be soooo happy! I read about ZZ Top working on a 50’s Dearmond tremolo with a rotating liquid canister. They went to a pharmacy and bought syringes and windex, had the pharmacist inject windex into the liquid canister.
hi - I see this and part 2 r a year old but I hope my comments help assuming you still have the Fender Tel-Ray oil can Echo-Reverb. I am a tube amp tech (both guitar & hi-fi tube equipment specializing in vintage but I also work on current production) for last 20 years or so more in last 10 years since I retired from primary IT job. Anyway I worked on a few of these including the Morley oil can EVO foot pedal (similar design to Fender but in a wah-wah type pedal). Here is what I know based on the 2 videos & Restoration required for these early 1960's technology. 1) Cord should be replaced with 3 prong 2) The hum is the filter caps that r over 60 years old!! need replacement to improve overall sound and get rid of hum 3) Oil u have is correct type & u r correct only a tablespoon to 1-1/2 tablespoons is all that is needed. 4) There are 4 "heads" made from a rubber/early silicone type material- one is used to wipe oil from rotating aluminum disc that is coated with a special coating that no one has been able to replicate (or figure out). There r 2 input heads (write) the long delay & short delay - what makes them long & short is the distance from the final head called the output (read) head. the input and output heads are adjustable (vertical, horizontal & distance or pressure against disc). I found that the one adjustment that is usually off is the easiest to adjust it positions heads perpendicular to the rotating disc if head is not aligned to ride on disc nice and flat against rotating disc. 4) To adjust the short delay head trace wire from back of switch (if short delay is second position on rotary switch then it is second wire on back of switch remember you r looking at switch backwards so left to right on front is right to left when looking from back) . once u find the head on the oil can attached to the first delay on switch u should note that the head is held in with a locknut or pair of locknuts - the top of the threaded shaft looks hollow!! well it is partially hollow but it is machined to fit a hex tool (Allen tool) - find the correct hex tool that fits the top of bolt, loosen lock nuts just enough so hex tool turns bolt - VERY SMALL ADJUSTMENT usually 1/32-1/16" either right or left while playing sound with unit on plugged into guitar & amp so with each slight adjustment u can test for level. It is tedious but not difficult- if u turn bolt too far u can break wire inside can attached to bottom of head these wires are very thin and fragile made of a spring type steel to keep wires away from spinning disc. 5) Finally - these units have a wonderful tube preamp but it was built in the early 60's when household line voltage was 110-115 VAC Maximum. Today household voltages r typically higher for me in NJ my line voltage is 121-125 VAC. This will impact the voltages to the tubes - the one voltage that u need to pay attention to the one voltage for the tubes in this unit that can be harmful is the heater or filament voltage which should be 6.3 VAC - if significantly higher (above 6.9) can prematurely cook and burn up these tubes - if I remember correctly one of them is a 7199 which is a very expensive rare/high demand tube used also in expensive hi-fi tube amps like Fisher. So in order to lower filament voltage I used a pair of high current diodes in parallel but anode to Cathode (soldered in parallel but one opposite direction than the other to allow current to flow in both directions as in A/C. This can be done on one side of the filament feed before the tubes or may need a second pair on other side depending on voltage drop needed (depending on what filament voltage is plugged into your line voltage- the higher the voltage the more pairs of diodes may be needed. In my case I think I added 2 or 3 pairs - Diodes are very inexpensive like $010-0.25 each - I think I used 5399 diodes but u want 2-3 amp diodes since tube heaters draw a lot of current so u dont want the diodes to burn up. Try to get voltage between 6.3 minimum to 6.6 maximum I can also restore this like or better than new They are worth $800-1200 fully restored, with cosmetics restored (yours needs new Tolex)
What is hilarious is we were in the garage working on this just now and just said to my husband "I feel so dumb I didn't see that earlier, and I can't wait for someone to point out that there's a trim pot" and you did it!!! Thank you!!! Sincerely!!!
good luck with your soon to be functioning oil can. if it needs to be refilled, use UCON lb65 which can often be purchased in small bottles from resellers on Reverb. Dow chemicals only sells it in a 55 gallon drum. wear gloves when handling. Run the motor periodically to prevent rust. You don't want to leave the fluid sitting in the same position for years on end.
Uncle Doug (an electronics guy in Az.) did a segment on an EH oil can echo unit & his video was a complete teardown & reassemble of that unit...Watch that if you're into these old 70s era echo units.
Well that went from a friendly conversation to a weird one super fast but yeah, I have a husband. Talk about him a lot on here. He's also a musician. His band opened for mine once and he's even been in a few of my videos and has filled in for my band in sound check when our bassist had to work late. We're celebrating seven years in October.
It's awesome that you weren't phased by trying to work on it. What's the worst that could happen...it already doesn't work right. Maybe replacing one of the pots might help? I love your approach to things. Definitely interested to see how this one turns out.
what were you thinking? I bought one that only works when plugged into the preamp circuit of a silverface twin reverb.... which I do not own. What was I thinking?
The real answer is that I am hoping to use it with either a pre-amp or boost pedal driving it, with the oil can as the last effect in my pedal chain before the amp. I also might be able to sue it in the effects loop of my peavey delta blues, which is preamplified.
I lucked out and apparently got a perfectly functional one that was worked on by someone who didn't know what he was doing! Update coming probably next week but I have this thing about as functional as I'll probably be able to get it.
If you were to eat it or bathe in it, it might be detrimental. Getting a little bit on your hands once isn't any worse than brake fluid or motor oil, i.e. not good, but not that big a deal either.
Are you hip to Colleen Fazio of Fazio Electric! She's a Handmade Guitar Amps & Repair service with a RUclips and Patreon. Skip the broscience and consult a pro
She's the best! But I did figure out the wet/dry issue. I'm fairly confident the broken short delay is a lot more involved and wonder if that's even worth fixing but I'll definitely reach out to her!
You will fix it and be soooo happy! I read about ZZ Top working on a 50’s Dearmond tremolo with a rotating liquid canister. They went to a pharmacy and bought syringes and windex, had the pharmacist inject windex into the liquid canister.
Oh wow!
DO NOT inject Windex in there!!!
hi - I see this and part 2 r a year old but I hope my comments help assuming you still have the Fender Tel-Ray oil can Echo-Reverb. I am a tube amp tech (both guitar & hi-fi tube equipment specializing in vintage but I also work on current production) for last 20 years or so more in last 10 years since I retired from primary IT job.
Anyway I worked on a few of these including the Morley oil can EVO foot pedal (similar design to Fender but in a wah-wah type pedal).
Here is what I know based on the 2 videos & Restoration required for these early 1960's technology.
1) Cord should be replaced with 3 prong
2) The hum is the filter caps that r over 60 years old!! need replacement to improve overall sound and get rid of hum
3) Oil u have is correct type & u r correct only a tablespoon to 1-1/2 tablespoons is all that is needed.
4) There are 4 "heads" made from a rubber/early silicone type material- one is used to wipe oil from rotating aluminum disc that is coated with a special coating that no one has been able to replicate (or figure out). There r 2 input heads (write) the long delay & short delay - what makes them long & short is the distance from the final head called the output (read) head.
the input and output heads are adjustable (vertical, horizontal & distance or pressure against disc). I found that the one adjustment that is usually off is the easiest to adjust it positions heads perpendicular to the rotating disc if head is not aligned to ride on disc nice and flat against rotating disc.
4) To adjust the short delay head trace wire from back of switch (if short delay is second position on rotary switch then it is second wire on back of switch remember you r looking at switch backwards so left to right on front is right to left when looking from back) .
once u find the head on the oil can attached to the first delay on switch u should note that the head is held in with a locknut or pair of locknuts - the top of the threaded shaft looks hollow!! well it is partially hollow but it is machined to fit a hex tool (Allen tool) - find the correct hex tool that fits the top of bolt, loosen lock nuts just enough so hex tool turns bolt - VERY SMALL ADJUSTMENT usually 1/32-1/16" either right or left while playing sound with unit on plugged into guitar & amp so with each slight adjustment u can test for level.
It is tedious but not difficult- if u turn bolt too far u can break wire inside can attached to bottom of head these wires are very thin and fragile made of a spring type steel to keep wires away from spinning disc.
5) Finally - these units have a wonderful tube preamp but it was built in the early 60's when household line voltage was 110-115 VAC Maximum. Today household voltages r typically higher for me in NJ my line voltage is 121-125 VAC. This will impact the voltages to the tubes - the one voltage that u need to pay attention to the one voltage for the tubes in this unit that can be harmful is the heater or filament voltage which should be 6.3 VAC - if significantly higher (above 6.9) can prematurely cook and burn up these tubes - if I remember correctly one of them is a 7199 which is a very expensive rare/high demand tube used also in expensive hi-fi tube amps like Fisher. So in order to lower filament voltage I used a pair of high current diodes in parallel but anode to Cathode (soldered in parallel but one opposite direction than the other to allow current to flow in both directions as in A/C. This can be done on one side of the filament feed before the tubes or may need a second pair on other side depending on voltage drop needed (depending on what filament voltage is plugged into your line voltage- the higher the voltage the more pairs of diodes may be needed. In my case I think I added 2 or 3 pairs - Diodes are very inexpensive like $010-0.25 each - I think I used 5399 diodes but u want 2-3 amp diodes since tube heaters draw a lot of current so u dont want the diodes to burn up.
Try to get voltage between 6.3 minimum to 6.6 maximum
I can also restore this like or better than new
They are worth $800-1200 fully restored, with cosmetics restored (yours needs new Tolex)
Thanks for the info! I long-since sold mine for a small profit from the man I bought it from but I hope this info helps someone else!
What about the direct signal adjustment on chassis in the back
I love you
You got it
What is hilarious is we were in the garage working on this just now and just said to my husband "I feel so dumb I didn't see that earlier, and I can't wait for someone to point out that there's a trim pot" and you did it!!! Thank you!!! Sincerely!!!
good luck with your soon to be functioning oil can. if it needs to be refilled, use UCON lb65 which can often be purchased in small bottles from resellers on Reverb. Dow chemicals only sells it in a 55 gallon drum. wear gloves when handling. Run the motor periodically to prevent rust. You don't want to leave the fluid sitting in the same position for years on end.
It had way too much oil in it!
Read that final laugh as saying, "I can't believe I just asked the internet to tell me what they think."
Good luck with the repairs.
It works now!
Uncle Doug (an electronics guy in Az.) did a segment on an EH oil can echo unit & his video was a complete teardown & reassemble of that unit...Watch that if you're into these old 70s era echo units.
My husband and I watched it last night! Extremely valuable video.
@@GetOffset ....You have a husband?....Thought you were an angry L-7 lesbian type....
Well that went from a friendly conversation to a weird one super fast but yeah, I have a husband. Talk about him a lot on here. He's also a musician. His band opened for mine once and he's even been in a few of my videos and has filled in for my band in sound check when our bassist had to work late. We're celebrating seven years in October.
@@floydburney6060 🤡
It's awesome that you weren't phased by trying to work on it. What's the worst that could happen...it already doesn't work right. Maybe replacing one of the pots might help? I love your approach to things. Definitely interested to see how this one turns out.
I mean I could have shocked myself pretty good lol
We need Fazio Electric
I bet she could've got it working
Oof, that poor tolex.
It's not the years, it's the mileage.
what were you thinking? I bought one that only works when plugged into the preamp circuit of a silverface twin reverb.... which I do not own. What was I thinking?
The real answer is that I am hoping to use it with either a pre-amp or boost pedal driving it, with the oil can as the last effect in my pedal chain before the amp. I also might be able to sue it in the effects loop of my peavey delta blues, which is preamplified.
You got it to create effect sound at certain points! That’s a start!
haha true
Smart idea! I dont even think i could afford or get a functional one.a
I lucked out and apparently got a perfectly functional one that was worked on by someone who didn't know what he was doing! Update coming probably next week but I have this thing about as functional as I'll probably be able to get it.
@@GetOffset - EPIC!!!!!!!!
an Ope counter? are you from the mid-west?
You betcha!
Ooh I'm eyeing that TunaTone guitar in the back.
It's my favorite
The yellow patch cable you're using is stereo, maybe it'll work with a mono one.
Turns out there's an internal trim pot that was set to full wet for some reason!
If you were to eat it or bathe in it, it might be detrimental. Getting a little bit on your hands once isn't any worse than brake fluid or motor oil, i.e. not good, but not that big a deal either.
I try to use gloves around that shit too hahah, but I get ya
Nah those can be fixed no problem
Mike & Mikes
It looks cool👍🏽💁🏿♂️
Are you hip to Colleen Fazio of Fazio Electric! She's a Handmade Guitar Amps & Repair service with a RUclips and Patreon. Skip the broscience and consult a pro
She's the best! But I did figure out the wet/dry issue. I'm fairly confident the broken short delay is a lot more involved and wonder if that's even worth fixing but I'll definitely reach out to her!