I have restored several of that exact model - the first one I worked on was a bit of a challenge because there is so little reliable information about these relatively rare items - and those u find have sometimes been destroyed by owner trying "fixes" that are completely misguided - usually found on internet. Anyway, yours sounds about 50% correct. Took me a while to figure out how to calibrate the oil drum heads and mechanism - fortunately the ones I worked were not abused or modified by techs who didn't know what they were doing. Once these babies are set up properly - they will run for another 60-70 years so long as special oil isn't leaking (leaks when improperly stored - it must be stored sitting on it's feet same position when using it - upside down, on its back, front or sides will allow oil to leak out all over the inside of the unit). Basically, restoration is as follows: 1) get amplification circuit working (disconnect power to oil can motor) - very simple circuit - when working without oilcan it will act as a "tube boost/overdrive" into the input of any tube amp. 2) clean, test mechanical function of oil can system, this requires opening it up using a standard paint can opener from Home depot/Lowes/Amazon - looks like a bent rounded plat tip screwdriver wide blade, rounded edge to open metal top pry off paint can lids - under $2.00 - a screwdriver can damage/distort the oil can lids (front and back) - there's the motor, bushing, plate assembly, then the record, playback and erase rubber pads and the spring-like stiff, thin single wires that are soldered to each of the record & playback heads metal holders - it is important to use original stiff wire - broken solder connections at the heads is very common - this wire solders as easy as regular copper wire - doesn't need to be sparkling clean - just use some clear paste flux before applying solder - that will burn thru any residual oil & make a good connection. Cleaning any old/off color LB oil - DO NOT SCRATCH surface of rotating disc - even if slightly off color - don't use harsh chemicals or rough cleaning tools - use a microfiber cloth - some 91% rubbing alcohol u can pick up behind counter at CVS - dampen cloth with that if there are marks that won't come off by just wiping. check that disc rotates on shaft freely no binding - sometimes bearing on can lid is frozen. Ican walk u thru how to safely unfreeze. 3) The most tedious but most important for echo to operate properly is head alignment - the rubber heads must be perfectly perpendicular and centered to rotating disc - just like a phonograph cartridge is aligned to the rotating vinyl record - just a fraction (millimeter) off left or right -can decrease volume from that head dramatically - there are two record heads, one playback (2 heads connected to input jack where guitar plugs in and if I remember correctly, the first stage of amplification - then the "playback" head is connected to the other half of the 7199 - that's where the "so called" Reverb mixing comes in by feeding back some of the signal from the disc back into the record heads - then out to master volume - there is also a Pot on back to mix wet & dry signals. 5) Electronically - unit designed for 112-115V - my voltage in NJ goes as high as 129V - check the filament/heater voltage of tube if it is 7.0VAC or higher there is a quick fix to get that down to 6.3V otherwise u will be burning up the very costly 7199 tube. I have tons of photos and step by step troubleshooting/restoration process - LMK Chris
Just a note that the two-pronged plug is only a "danger" if the cable shorts and is touching a conductive (metal) surface in the amp. I'll be the current power cable is insulated and the threat of a short is pretty unlikely. Of course, grounded plugs are technically safer, but most amps are so well built that it shouldn't be an issue. Not to be controversial or anything. 😜
Oil can delays are cool use it just enough to enhance the sound of your guitar. Too much and it’s just annoying. They were used by studios and live performances for guitar and vocals. Updating the power cord won’t change the sound. Use properly it will give you authentic vintage sound. Don’t let the wet become the sound. Enhance the dry so everyone wonders why you’re guitar sounds so good…. Enjoyed both your videos on your acquisition of this classic piece of gear.
Hi Emily congrats on the repair, My advice just use a generic pag oil as a substitute for the ucon save $$$$$ Mix 100 and 45 pag to get the 65 viscosity. The problem with these units is they require constant maintenance, I've got a Variable delay i've never got working properly it was pretty trashed to begin with though, On the other hand i bought working Organ Tone that"s a Tel Ray Vibrato i've been able to get anything from a subtle woody vibrato to full on phaser effect from it but now it's not working again. While they sound and look great essentially they take away your time playing music with their constant repairs.
When it was squealing like a bagpipe with an attitude I fully expected the screen to go into a test pattern from the emergency broadcast systerm! Cool little unit...I'll bet that would sound amazing with a harmonica through a microphone,
Nice score. Yesterday I got a housing for this unit and will search for the innards. I'm not familiar with these but apparently they're usually not working at all so it sounds like you were very fortunate to only need minor adjustments. Congrats!!
I have restored several of that exact model - the first one I worked on was a bit of a challenge because there is so little reliable information about these relatively rare items - and those u find have sometimes been destroyed by owner trying "fixes" that are completely misguided - usually found on internet. Anyway, yours sounds about 50% correct. Took me a while to figure out how to calibrate the oil drum heads and mechanism - fortunately the ones I worked were not abused or modified by techs who didn't know what they were doing. Once these babies are set up properly - they will run for another 60-70 years so long as special oil isn't leaking (leaks when improperly stored - it must be stored sitting on it's feet same position when using it - upside down, on its back, front or sides will allow oil to leak out all over the inside of the unit). Basically, restoration is as follows: 1) get amplification circuit working (disconnect power to oil can motor) - very simple circuit - when working without oilcan it will act as a "tube boost/overdrive" into the input of any tube amp. 2) clean, test mechanical function of oil can system, this requires opening it up using a standard paint can opener from Home depot/Lowes/Amazon - looks like a bent rounded plat tip screwdriver wide blade, rounded edge to open metal top pry off paint can lids - under $2.00 - a screwdriver can damage/distort the oil can lids (front and back) - there's the motor, bushing, plate assembly, then the record, playback and erase rubber pads and the spring-like stiff, thin single wires that are soldered to each of the record & playback heads metal holders - it is important to use original stiff wire - broken solder connections at the heads is very common - this wire solders as easy as regular copper wire - doesn't need to be sparkling clean - just use some clear paste flux before applying solder - that will burn thru any residual oil & make a good connection. Cleaning any old/off color LB oil - DO NOT SCRATCH surface of rotating disc - even if slightly off color - don't use harsh chemicals or rough cleaning tools - use a microfiber cloth - some 91% rubbing alcohol u can pick up behind counter at CVS - dampen cloth with that if there are marks that won't come off by just wiping. check that disc rotates on shaft freely no binding - sometimes bearing on can lid is frozen. Ican walk u thru how to safely unfreeze. 3) The most tedious but most important for echo to operate properly is head alignment - the rubber heads must be perfectly perpendicular and centered to rotating disc - just like a phonograph cartridge is aligned to the rotating vinyl record - just a fraction (millimeter) off left or right -can decrease volume from that head dramatically - there are two record heads, one playback (2 heads connected to input jack where guitar plugs in and if I remember correctly, the first stage of amplification - then the "playback" head is connected to the other half of the 7199 - that's where the "so called" Reverb mixing comes in by feeding back some of the signal from the disc back into the record heads - then out to master volume - there is also a Pot on back to mix wet & dry signals. 5) Electronically - unit designed for 112-115V - my voltage in NJ goes as high as 129V - check the filament/heater voltage of tube if it is 7.0VAC or higher there is a quick fix to get that down to 6.3V otherwise u will be burning up the very costly 7199 tube.
I have tons of photos and step by step troubleshooting/restoration process - LMK
Chris
Your facial expressions when turning the dials up are a joy to behold, as usual. But my ears were almost bleeding at bits.😆
Are those one of those 2 prong shock treatment thingys ???😊
Just a note that the two-pronged plug is only a "danger" if the cable shorts and is touching a conductive (metal) surface in the amp. I'll be the current power cable is insulated and the threat of a short is pretty unlikely. Of course, grounded plugs are technically safer, but most amps are so well built that it shouldn't be an issue. Not to be controversial or anything. 😜
Well I'm a big baby hahaha. And it shocked me.
@@GetOffset 🤘🏼
Holy shit, that EC Jazzmaster is awesome. Great buy!
That is a cool delay! So glad you got it working :)
Me too!
IM SOOOOOOOOOO EXCITED!
That sounds awesome!
It does! It was hard to let go of, but I like the guitar a lot more.
Oil can delays are cool use it just enough to enhance the sound of your guitar. Too much and it’s just annoying.
They were used by studios and live performances for guitar and vocals.
Updating the power cord won’t change the sound. Use properly it will give you authentic vintage sound. Don’t let the wet become the sound. Enhance the dry so everyone wonders why you’re guitar sounds so good….
Enjoyed both your videos on your acquisition of this classic piece of gear.
Hav3 you ever tried an old tape echo machine? If so what are your thoughts?
Maybe in college, but not in a long time!
Very cool!
Hi Emily congrats on the repair, My advice just use a generic pag oil as a substitute for the ucon save $$$$$ Mix 100 and 45 pag to get the 65 viscosity. The problem with these units is they require constant maintenance, I've got a Variable delay i've never got working properly it was pretty trashed to begin with though, On the other hand i bought working Organ Tone that"s a Tel Ray Vibrato i've been able to get anything from a subtle woody vibrato to full on phaser effect from it but now it's not working again. While they sound and look great essentially they take away your time playing music with their constant repairs.
Great tips, thanks for sharing!
When it was squealing like a bagpipe with an attitude I fully expected the screen to go into a test pattern from the emergency broadcast systerm! Cool little unit...I'll bet that would sound amazing with a harmonica through a microphone,
I have one it was working I open it apart f around and know I don’t know where the cables belong 😂✌🏽
Oof, always take a picture first.
Nice score. Yesterday I got a housing for this unit and will search for the innards. I'm not familiar with these but apparently they're usually not working at all so it sounds like you were very fortunate to only need minor adjustments. Congrats!!
Very nice!
@@GetOffset any chance you'd be selling or trading out this echo unit any time soon?
@@mortatoneamplification3565 It was sold before this video was even released
Nice, pretty rad that the dry signal issue didn't even require replacing any of the circuitry components lol
run the two prong into a grounded surge protector power strip and it'll be as safe as if you changed the power supple cord
It shocked me.
@@GetOffset ouch
HEADPHONE WARNING!