I really got to say i appreciate the timing of this video, as i am refurbishing a wingback chair left to me by my grandparents. I need to re-stain and coat the legs of it, and now I have a bit better idea of how the legs are attached ahead of time :3
This was a relatively simple and straightforward repair. But from the looks of the plywood that you exposed I expect this chair will need some more repairs in the future. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay healthy.
I'm confident in the area I repaired, but yes, there are likely other spots that have some delimitation in the plywood that could cause failure in the future. Cheers. Scott
@@FixingFurniture this is a common issue with furniture now it’s not made well at all. Im very confident in the work you did as well. I also agree this is a problem that spreads to the other legs just a matter of time. The legs are compromised when it’s flare out like that one was also.
Very clear explanation. I'll know what to look for when faced with this issue. Thanks again for another great lesson I'm sure I'll be able to use. Your channel is invaluable to my learning and knowledge gain. 👍
You're welcome. There's a lot to learn in the furniture repair space and hopefully we're hitting all the important topics for you. I'm happy to consider suggested topic if you have something you're looking for in a video. Scott
Thank you so much for this! I have two accent chairs with the same issues. The corking cracked that was under the dust cover, it causes all the legs to break off even on my ottomans! (Never buy from waifair) but it’s what I could afford. I feel confident in attempting to replace the legs and fix the problem and if not I at least know the name of the parts to explain to a repair place what needs to be done or get a estimate. I have searched for a video like this for sometime; glad that I found it!
Hi, I really enjoy your video. You seem to know what you’re doing very professional I have a fainting couch the leg has broke getting off. Several times there’s wooden missing I have tried to build up there’s still some missing in the middle. I am going to use wood filler and the leg has two Dows in it one whole and one Dow and the sofa has one whole and one Dow and they connect together. What would be the best technique to fix this chair or fainting couch I should say thank you for your help in advance.
Epoxy does better on end grain, which was part of the block. On the larger side, the plywood was fairly rough, so I decided not to use PVA as the surfaces may not have mated well. Good question Fater. Scott
Hi Scott, Love your video. It helped me determine what I need to do to repair my chair. The front of my chair is curved and i wonder if the block method will work with the curve?
Another good lesson, and how to do a repair, great info Scott. and techniques . When are you and Tom going to do another dual video that last one was really neat. would love to see you guys again doing one. thanks again for this one and for sharing.
Yes, if you pulled the layers apart and worked in some epoxy, that would add additional strength. I doubt wood glue would hold well due to the adhesive already on the layers. I hope that helps. Scott
It surely does! However if you are dealing with outdoor plywood with phenol formaldehyde adhesive it’s more reassuring to use polyurethane adhesive to mimic same color as the original adhesive
@@FixingFurniture I am retired woodfinisher to the Rich and Famous www.Boblevey.net and just started doing repairs and woodworking a few years ago. I really appreciate your approach.
One additional comment. Oftentimes the hole is the leg is oversized and using a longer hanger bolt does not provide enough "bite." In these cases, I fill the hole with epoxy putty, like the QuikWood that you recently used. Insert the hanger bolt while it's still soft and make sure it fills the gaps and it's square to the top. Just had to do this last week. I've never felt the need to be able to take the bolt back out, but if you do, you can probably run it in to tap the thread slots and remove shortly thereafter, before the epoxy sets up. Adding some low viscosity CA glue to the failing plywood might also help.
Thanks for sharing your suggestions Keith. I've never tried epoxy putty to repair stripped holes. I also haven't tried CA glue on plywood but I placed my first order of some CA glues this week so I will be able to start experimenting with them... upcoming discount code for CA glue if all goes well.
I got similar sized hanger bolts, but in clothes hangers no thicker than a thumb. They get split one after another. Probably not enough wood to hold the bolts under weight of clothes. Do you think gluing the wood will be enough? Or shall I add some sort of ring bracers over the wood to prevent future splits?
I have a wingback chair and one of the back leg is in the wrong direction when tighten or loose when in the correct position. I used 2 serrated spacing washers and it seems to do the trick. My question is, is it safe to have 1 washer on one leg and 2 washers on the other leg? Thank you
Hi, this was great, thank you! Do you have any advice; I have a chair leg where the post (that the wood leg screws on to) is spinning and I am unable to remove it from the bottom of the chair.
Hi Scott, i like your videos very much. I‘m an architect with a very old house in Switzerland, old furniture is a part of my life. One question: i have bought an old oak table, where some parts of it are put together with old screws. These parts are now wobbling a little, so I should tighten the screws to fix it, but these screws in the oak are almost impossible to drive. Is there any trick - maybe with some oil? - to loose them?
Yes, there is a trick to loosen old screws in wood. Place your screwdriver in the slot as if you were unscrewing the screw and the apply heat to the shaft of the screwdriver. I use a heat gun for this. The heat is transferred from the screwdriver into the screw and will break the connection between the wood and the metal. Good luck with your project! Scott
Did you have to play w the thread ‘orientation’ off camera so the leg ends at the correct orientation relative to the chair or is it usually enough to just muscle it?
Good question. No, I didn't have to orient the hanger bolt a specific way. As you saw, it took some pressure to get it lined up and that's normal for repairs like this. I hope that helps. Scott
I believe so. What I recently learned about silicone is that there's no known substance that will adhere to it... so in theory, you can let a varnish-coated cup dry and you can break it off to clean up the cup.
Hi Scott, when you fastening the leg to the chair, do you consider applying some loctite on the thread? It seems no locking mechanism on the screw, the legs are free to rotate in anytime. Joe
Furniture legs like this are not frequently moved, unlike a faucet or a wheel. Loctite isn't something you need for the threads of the hanger bolt. I hope that helps. Scott
1:47 - mine will not unscrew. And I've reached in behind the leg, but there's a lot of wood structure there, and apparently, no way to grab onto the nut/whatever, that must be spinning and not allowing the leg to loosen or tighten.
Hi Bill. It may be an insert nut that has teeth embedded from above and covered with wood. I suggest to try pulling with even pressure while unscrewing the leg to see if that will help the insert nut from spinning. I offer 1-on-1 advice sessions via Zoom if you'd like me to take a look with you. See the Store on our website woodenitbenice.ca Scott
My chair is too wide to move through staircase of new apartment. If I could remove the two front feet it would fit. It looks glued. I have a heat gun but worried I met set it alight. I attempted to unscrew it from the centre of foot but regular screw driver not helping. Any suggestions welcome.
It's difficult to troubleshoot without seeing the feet. We offer advice sessions via Zoom if you'd like me to coach you though it. Here's a link woodenitbenice.ca/collections/woodworking-advice-sessions
It's crazy how badly some/most covered furniture is constructed. With materials from cardboard, chipboard & mdf to every grade of ply. I've seen half milled timber with bark on. All held together with staples😂
Of course you know it’s all about price point, foreign manufacture, and planned obsolescence. When faced with the obsolescence question, the distributors and retailers will say, that home furnishings is a cyclical fashion industry, so the public will want to redecorate their homes before the furniture structurally fails. Unfortunately they are largely correct. Personally I find it “a sad state of the current consumer mentality”. Some 16 years ago I was managing a Clearance Center of a major upholstery furniture retailer. My store received all the broken and returned furniture. The company had a qualified repair tech that I could call upon but sometimes just to keep myself busy and for expediency, I’d do the work myself. The materials the import stuff was made of was absolute garbage! Everything from the wood products to fasteners to joining methods. Awful! The domestically made pieces, while by no means could be called “fine furniture”, were ten times better made. Funny thing too... my store would often get manufacture’s samples from overseas for new models the company was considering. Those were much better made than the final mass produced versions that my company purchased for retail.
@@fatersaadatniaki ...No sir, certainly not. The one thing the U.S. has behind it is that we became highly developed many decades ago, so people became accustomed to a high standard of domestic product quality a long time ago. The concept lingers in the collective memory of many, but is no more a reality for most of us. This tradition is however used/employed psychologically by product developers and retailers to market their low quality goods to the public. Poor quality is now the general norm, and the public largely accepts it.
Wow, with bark on it? I guess if the manufacturer is covering it, that can get away with that until in breaks. It makes me sad to see poor craftsmanship, but with "fast furniture" it ends up being very cheap.
@@mercoid I referred to this as "serial decorators." But it kept me in business repairing them for that 5-7 years of their service life. I have often seen structural components with large knots and the resulting grain runout, creating weak spots.
I used epoxy for two reasons. One, wood glue doesn't work as well as epoxy on end grain, so I got better adhesion on the end of the block. Second, the plywood on the side of the chair was very rough so I wasn't convinced I would get a good bond with PVA. Epoxy works well bonding pieces that have gaps in them. I hope that helps. Scott
Great video Scott, a bit if material can hide a multitude of sins, I hate this out of out of mind attitude with some furniture manfacturing beds are great example in the UK. You would not believe the crappie wood they use and charge the earth for the bed , I made my own.
You made your own bed? Wow, good for you Brian! I'm curious and would love to hear more about that. If you want to talk outside of RUclips comments, you can reach out via our website. Scott woodenitbenice.ca
@@FixingFurniture I've made 3 loft beds for two of my daughters and another for a dorm roommate (ca. 1983-1997). One of them I later converted into a bunk for a set of her twin sons. Then 2 more bunk bed sets for grand-daughters that can be stacked or separated to twin beds. For those, I got dowel rods for the headboard and footboards and cut an arch for the top. When bunked, the two higher ones become the lower layer and when un-bunked, they become the headboards. One set got un-bunked when they got separate bedrooms. Then one grand-daughter decided she wanted a loft bed, so I made a sub-structure that put the bed up higher. Then made a "triple bunk" of SYP for visiting grandkids in a guest room. Also two of my three daughters got regular queen beds, one hard maple and one ash. Those were made with raised panels. The third daughter got 4 platform beds for her kids, basically a box that holds a mattress. I recently volunteered to make regular beds but she and the kids (ages 5-11) are happy for now. For some of the bunks, I bought the slats from IKEA. They are laminated and have a slight arch and found they work very well if you are not using box springs, that bunks normally do not. Also reasonably priced for what you'd have to pay for the alternatives.
That's a complex answer and one I don't share on RUclips. My pricing strategy is something I've built over years and only share with paying customers. I offer advice sessions if you're interested. Scott
A real repairman? Where is ur RUclips channel?? Yeah thought so. Can always spot a narcissist from a mile away. Why are you watching this if your a real repairman??
Great solution to a common problem.
I really got to say i appreciate the timing of this video, as i am refurbishing a wingback chair left to me by my grandparents. I need to re-stain and coat the legs of it, and now I have a bit better idea of how the legs are attached ahead of time :3
That does sound like good timing. Good luck with your repair project Chelsea. Scott
Thank you for this instructional tutorial.
This was a relatively simple and straightforward repair. But from the looks of the plywood that you exposed I expect this chair will need some more repairs in the future. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay healthy.
I'm confident in the area I repaired, but yes, there are likely other spots that have some delimitation in the plywood that could cause failure in the future. Cheers. Scott
@@FixingFurniture this is a common issue with furniture now it’s not made well at all. Im very confident in the work you did as well. I also agree this is a problem that spreads to the other legs just a matter of time. The legs are compromised when it’s flare out like that one was also.
This is exactly what I needed to see to fix my wingback chair. The leg issue is 100% this
Glad you found it helpful Morgue. Good luck with your repair. Scott
Very clear explanation. I'll know what to look for when faced with this issue. Thanks again for another great lesson I'm sure I'll be able to use. Your channel is invaluable to my learning and knowledge gain. 👍
I'm glad to hear you found it helpful. Thanks for sharing that Sean, I find it encouraging to produce more videos. Enjoy your Saturday! Scott
Throughly enjoy all your helpful videos and careful explanations. Thank you!
You're welcome Steve. Glad you like them! Scott
I always give your videos a thumbs up. I have learned more from watching them than I have in years of experimenting in my shop.
Thank you Gary! I love it that you're learning from our videos. Scott
Thanks Scott! Great ideas for fixing modern furniture
You're welcome Paul. Cheers. Scott
As an interior designer, I’m still learning all the tricks and know how’s. Thx
You're welcome. There's a lot to learn in the furniture repair space and hopefully we're hitting all the important topics for you. I'm happy to consider suggested topic if you have something you're looking for in a video. Scott
Solid video! Loved that it is straight to the point and paces well and you explain nicely side items like the epoxy. Thumbs up
You are a good instructor.
Thank you. I appreciate that. Scott
Thank you so much for this! I have two accent chairs with the same issues. The corking cracked that was under the dust cover, it causes all the legs to break off even on my ottomans! (Never buy from waifair) but it’s what I could afford. I feel confident in attempting to replace the legs and fix the problem and if not I at least know the name of the parts to explain to a repair place what needs to be done or get a estimate. I have searched for a video like this for sometime; glad that I found it!
you have to be a real PRO to make this look so easy.... 👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Thank you for the great tips. Looking forward to the next video.
You're welcome Jeanie. Thanks for your supportive comment. I appreciate that. Scott
I really thought this video was going to be over in 4 minutes. 😄 Another enjoyable instructional video.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching. Scott
Thanks for the lesson. It was well done.
Glad you liked it! Thanks for sharing your thoughts Richard. Scott
A wing-back chair? This episode is gonna fly!
Lol, I hope so! Cheers. Scott
Excellent & easy to follow instructions 😮
Glad you found it helpful Deborah. Thanks for watching! Scott
Thanks for sharing. I have a chair similar to this one that is broken on just leg (the wooden part of the chair). Is it still salvageable?
Nicely executed, Scott.
Thank you Michael! Glad you enjoyed it. Scott
Really interesting, thank you.
Hi, I really enjoy your video. You seem to know what you’re doing very professional I have a fainting couch the leg has broke getting off. Several times there’s wooden missing I have tried to build up there’s still some missing in the middle. I am going to use wood filler and the leg has two Dows in it one whole and one Dow and the sofa has one whole and one Dow and they connect together. What would be the best technique to fix this chair or fainting couch I should say thank you for your help in advance.
Any particular reason why you opted for epoxy rather than PVA in this case, despite having a reasonable clamping space ?
Epoxy does better on end grain, which was part of the block. On the larger side, the plywood was fairly rough, so I decided not to use PVA as the surfaces may not have mated well. Good question Fater. Scott
Great video thanks!
Glad you liked it! Cheers. Scott
Great Video! How do you repair a leg where the hangar bolt nut has been ripped out of the chair?
Just when i needed it... about a year ago, we trashed a chair because of this exact problem. Now i know better of course!
Very good job.
This was very helpful. I have a loveseat foot doing the same thing but I can’t get to the nut on the inside! Help!
Hi Scott, Love your video. It helped me determine what I need to do to repair my chair. The front of my chair is curved and i wonder if the block method will work with the curve?
Another good lesson, and how to do a repair, great info Scott. and techniques . When are you and Tom going to do another dual video that last one was really neat. would love to see you guys again doing one. thanks again for this one and for sharing.
Thanks Ellis. No plans yet on timing of another video with Tom but you may see another guest on the channel soon. Scott
Thanks for sharing great tips and techniques. Question: would adding wood glue to the the plywood where it de-laminated add any strength?
Yes, if you pulled the layers apart and worked in some epoxy, that would add additional strength. I doubt wood glue would hold well due to the adhesive already on the layers. I hope that helps. Scott
It surely does! However if you are dealing with outdoor plywood with phenol formaldehyde adhesive it’s more reassuring to use polyurethane adhesive to mimic same color as the original adhesive
Very good!!!
Glad you think so! Thanks. Scott
@@FixingFurniture I am retired woodfinisher to the Rich and Famous www.Boblevey.net and just started doing repairs and woodworking a few years ago.
I really appreciate your approach.
One additional comment. Oftentimes the hole is the leg is oversized and using a longer hanger bolt does not provide enough "bite." In these cases, I fill the hole with epoxy putty, like the QuikWood that you recently used. Insert the hanger bolt while it's still soft and make sure it fills the gaps and it's square to the top. Just had to do this last week. I've never felt the need to be able to take the bolt back out, but if you do, you can probably run it in to tap the thread slots and remove shortly thereafter, before the epoxy sets up. Adding some low viscosity CA glue to the failing plywood might also help.
Thanks for sharing your suggestions Keith. I've never tried epoxy putty to repair stripped holes. I also haven't tried CA glue on plywood but I placed my first order of some CA glues this week so I will be able to start experimenting with them... upcoming discount code for CA glue if all goes well.
Wheee can you get a replacement leg that’s curved like that. Have a club chair leg broken in 2 by the movers 😩
Great job
I got similar sized hanger bolts, but in clothes hangers no thicker than a thumb. They get split one after another. Probably not enough wood to hold the bolts under weight of clothes. Do you think gluing the wood will be enough? Or shall I add some sort of ring bracers over the wood to prevent future splits?
I have a wingback chair and one of the back leg is in the wrong direction when tighten or loose when in the correct position. I used 2 serrated spacing washers and it seems to do the trick. My question is, is it safe to have 1 washer on one leg and 2 washers on the other leg? Thank you
great repair! as usual. :)
Thank you! Cheers! Scott
I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.
Thanks Marius
Nice repair thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching Richard! Scott
Hi, this was great, thank you! Do you have any advice; I have a chair leg where the post (that the wood leg screws on to) is spinning and I am unable to remove it from the bottom of the chair.
You will need to undo the staples in the dust cover (black fabric underneath) to access the tee nut that is spinning. I hope that helps. Scott
@@FixingFurniture I'll give it a go, thank you!
Yes this is exact how my chair is and need fixing
Hi Scott, i like your videos very much. I‘m an architect with a very old house in Switzerland, old furniture is a part of my life. One question: i have bought an old oak table, where some parts of it are put together with old screws. These parts are now wobbling a little, so I should tighten the screws to fix it, but these screws in the oak are almost impossible to drive. Is there any trick - maybe with some oil? - to loose them?
Yes, there is a trick to loosen old screws in wood. Place your screwdriver in the slot as if you were unscrewing the screw and the apply heat to the shaft of the screwdriver. I use a heat gun for this. The heat is transferred from the screwdriver into the screw and will break the connection between the wood and the metal. Good luck with your project! Scott
@@FixingFurniture thank you very much, I‘ll try your method :)
How do I go about fixing the plywood wood piece? I have a chair where the about a 3inch corner of plywood broke off where the leg screw in.
Did you have to play w the thread ‘orientation’ off camera so the leg ends at the correct orientation relative to the chair or is it usually enough to just muscle it?
Good question. No, I didn't have to orient the hanger bolt a specific way. As you saw, it took some pressure to get it lined up and that's normal for repairs like this. I hope that helps. Scott
Do you consider these hanger bolt and t nut style connections to be sturdy? Particularly for legs with casters?
Thanks for your teaching!!
👍👍💯💯
Do you have a recommendation if the screw is stripped in the leg?
First , thanks for u videos , I appreciated a lot 😊
You're welcome. Thanks for watching! Scott
I just purchased two similar chairs and like to use for my dining room. I’d like longer legs. Is there a site you’d recommend good quality legs?
I don't have a supplier I regularly use for legs, so I can't recommend one based on my experience. Sorry. Scott
Would you be able to tell me exactly what that thread insert is called and how to possibly remove it?
Hello Maestro! Can the silicone cup be used on varnish like the epoxy?
I believe so. What I recently learned about silicone is that there's no known substance that will adhere to it... so in theory, you can let a varnish-coated cup dry and you can break it off to clean up the cup.
@@FixingFurniture thank you very much!
Hi Scott, when you fastening the leg to the chair, do you consider applying some loctite on the thread? It seems no locking mechanism on the screw, the legs are free to rotate in anytime.
Joe
I was thinking about some of the epoxy!
Furniture legs like this are not frequently moved, unlike a faucet or a wheel. Loctite isn't something you need for the threads of the hanger bolt. I hope that helps. Scott
We really got a lot from the video. Where can we buy the parts etc you used.
1:47 - mine will not unscrew. And I've reached in behind the leg, but there's a lot of wood structure there, and apparently, no way to grab onto the nut/whatever, that must be spinning and not allowing the leg to loosen or tighten.
Hi Bill. It may be an insert nut that has teeth embedded from above and covered with wood. I suggest to try pulling with even pressure while unscrewing the leg to see if that will help the insert nut from spinning. I offer 1-on-1 advice sessions via Zoom if you'd like me to take a look with you. See the Store on our website woodenitbenice.ca Scott
@@FixingFurniture Thanks very much Scott. Yeah I've tried the pull-and-turn technique - no luck. I'll keep your offer in mind.
What can I do if the tnut has pushed through the plywood please it's crumbled around the hole?
My chair is too wide to move through staircase of new apartment. If I could remove the two front feet it would fit. It looks glued. I have a heat gun but worried I met set it alight. I attempted to unscrew it from the centre of foot but regular screw driver not helping. Any suggestions welcome.
It's difficult to troubleshoot without seeing the feet. We offer advice sessions via Zoom if you'd like me to coach you though it. Here's a link woodenitbenice.ca/collections/woodworking-advice-sessions
Like new!
Thank you! Cheers!
I was your 200th Upvote (and at the time 0 Downvotes!)
That's awesome! Thank you for your support! Scott
@@FixingFurniture Well, I can only update. Kudos to your patreons for giving me a free ride. :)
It's crazy how badly some/most covered furniture is constructed. With materials from cardboard, chipboard & mdf to every grade of ply. I've seen half milled timber with bark on.
All held together with staples😂
Of course you know it’s all about price point, foreign manufacture, and planned obsolescence. When faced with the obsolescence question, the distributors and retailers will say, that home furnishings is a cyclical fashion industry, so the public will want to redecorate their homes before the furniture structurally fails. Unfortunately they are largely correct. Personally I find it “a sad state of the current consumer mentality”.
Some 16 years ago I was managing a Clearance Center of a major upholstery furniture retailer. My store received all the broken and returned furniture. The company had a qualified repair tech that I could call upon but sometimes just to keep myself busy and for expediency, I’d do the work myself. The materials the import stuff was made of was absolute garbage! Everything from the wood products to fasteners to joining methods. Awful! The domestically made pieces, while by no means could be called “fine furniture”, were ten times better made.
Funny thing too... my store would often get manufacture’s samples from overseas for new models the company was considering. Those were much better made than the final mass produced versions that my company purchased for retail.
I was thinking that this is only prevalent here in the developing countries 😳
@@fatersaadatniaki ...No sir, certainly not.
The one thing the U.S. has behind it is that we became highly developed many decades ago, so people became accustomed to a high standard of domestic product quality a long time ago. The concept lingers in the collective memory of many, but is no more a reality for most of us. This tradition is however used/employed psychologically by product developers and retailers to market their low quality goods to the public. Poor quality is now the general norm, and the public largely accepts it.
Wow, with bark on it? I guess if the manufacturer is covering it, that can get away with that until in breaks. It makes me sad to see poor craftsmanship, but with "fast furniture" it ends up being very cheap.
@@mercoid I referred to this as "serial decorators." But it kept me in business repairing them for that 5-7 years of their service life. I have often seen structural components with large knots and the resulting grain runout, creating weak spots.
Commenting mainly to help the algorithm.
Why do you use epoxy instead of wood glue?
I used epoxy for two reasons. One, wood glue doesn't work as well as epoxy on end grain, so I got better adhesion on the end of the block. Second, the plywood on the side of the chair was very rough so I wasn't convinced I would get a good bond with PVA. Epoxy works well bonding pieces that have gaps in them. I hope that helps. Scott
@@FixingFurniture Scott would it have helped to add some epoxy to the plywood that appeared to be de-laminating?
Great video Scott, a bit if material can hide a multitude of sins, I hate this out of out of mind attitude with some furniture manfacturing beds are great example in the UK. You would not believe the crappie wood they use and charge the earth for the bed , I made my own.
You made your own bed? Wow, good for you Brian! I'm curious and would love to hear more about that. If you want to talk outside of RUclips comments, you can reach out via our website. Scott woodenitbenice.ca
@@FixingFurniture I've made 3 loft beds for two of my daughters and another for a dorm roommate (ca. 1983-1997). One of them I later converted into a bunk for a set of her twin sons. Then 2 more bunk bed sets for grand-daughters that can be stacked or separated to twin beds. For those, I got dowel rods for the headboard and footboards and cut an arch for the top. When bunked, the two higher ones become the lower layer and when un-bunked, they become the headboards. One set got un-bunked when they got separate bedrooms. Then one grand-daughter decided she wanted a loft bed, so I made a sub-structure that put the bed up higher. Then made a "triple bunk" of SYP for visiting grandkids in a guest room. Also two of my three daughters got regular queen beds, one hard maple and one ash. Those were made with raised panels. The third daughter got 4 platform beds for her kids, basically a box that holds a mattress. I recently volunteered to make regular beds but she and the kids (ages 5-11) are happy for now. For some of the bunks, I bought the slats from IKEA. They are laminated and have a slight arch and found they work very well if you are not using box springs, that bunks normally do not. Also reasonably priced for what you'd have to pay for the alternatives.
Same chair. The leg falls off the hole for the screw is too wide
how do you price repairs
That's a complex answer and one I don't share on RUclips. My pricing strategy is something I've built over years and only share with paying customers. I offer advice sessions if you're interested. Scott
The hole in my case is in the couch itself. Looks like maybe a bit could be hammered in then the leg would go right in. Sigh
Would have been a good idea to have put some glue between the separated layers of the plywood. A real repair man would. have.
A real repairman? Where is ur RUclips channel?? Yeah thought so. Can always spot a narcissist from a mile away. Why are you watching this if your a real repairman??
Poorly build
Yes, based on what I saw, this was likely an inexpensive piece. Scott
@@FixingFurniture im only 12 years old im defintive not level 4 woodworker but i do small progets and stuff soory for my bad english im not english
@@FixingFurniture l learned a lot from you thanks a lot
@@ape337YT Your English is good.
Have fun with your woodworking.
@@simonhopkins3867 thanks
Cheaply made furniture.
Yes, it is. I couldn't believe how light this chair was compared to other upholstered furniture I've worked on. It was definitely under built. Scott
Unfortunately, that cheap Asian plywood is very common these days. As is OSB. "They don't make them like they used to."