Grease, Thread Lock, Or Anti-Seize On A Bicycle?!
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- Опубликовано: 18 дек 2024
- Do I use grease, thread lock, or anti seize?! This is a great question that comes up while working on bicycles! Truman Purdy of Park Tool answers it for you in this clip from our recent live stream.
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Grease vs thread locker IS NOT A PERSONAL PREFERENCE! I am an automotive mechanic and I've built engines. This video has so much false information that viewers must be careful.
For small delicate bolts that are extremely easy strip, you must use thread locker and not grease. Small delicate bolts have very low torque rating and using thread locker helps prevent them from coming loose. Also, when applied to bolts, grease can cause over torqueing because grease is slippery. Applying grease on delicate bolts can strip the threads due to over torqueing. Clean thread surfaces do not need lubrication to have an accurate torque reading. In fact, instruction manuals for some torque wrenches tells users to use the torque wrench on dry surfaces only to avoid over torqueing. For example, SRAM and Shimano caliper bolts come pre-applied with a small dot of hardened thread locker on them. That small dot of hardened thread locker is to allow the bolt to grip onto the surface of the thread.
When you said that engine head bolts require a slippery surface to get an accurate reading of the bolts. That is blatantly false. The reason we engine builders apply assembly oil on head bolts is so that we can get a consistent torque across all the head bolts, as to avoid uneven torque being applied on the head gasket. The reason we are not concerned with over torqueing the head bolts is that an engine block uses a very hard material that can withstand an extreme amount of torque. If you apply oil onto a valve cover bolt, there is a good chance you will be stripping the threads in the head.
The only four bolts on the bike to use grease on are bottom bracket bolts, wheel hub bolts, and Star Spangled Nuts. All other bolts come from the manufacturers with thread lockers. I have observed this from taking apart many bicycles.
Merci !!!
how about anti seize ?
Just a note on anti-seize. I don’t know if it’s only permatex anti seize, but it’s known to be toxic and cancer causing. It’s extremely hard to get off bare skin because it works easily into the pores and crevices in you skin. Use gloves when applying or handling anti-seize.
really like this Guy Brant. I worked in assembly line and they had Different grades of thread lock and they where color coded. One of them, they told me not to use cause it won't come apart. Ever. Me being me laughed and said oh yea.... Got extra parts put together with that lock tight stuff and uhhh Yes it snapped the bolt trying to get it off.... LOl Good times
Haha oh man thats rough!
... /... which one color ( was it ) ?
You need to consult the galvanic table to work out what anti-seize you need. I have a combination of titanium, 4130, and 7075 for my crank assembly. I use nickel Anti seize between 7075 cranks and titanium spindle ; and loctite 243 thread lock for the 4130 pinch bolts to 7075 crank arms which are low torque types.. If you live in a very dry environment it's not as crucial. But if rain, water, or high humidity are a factor then HTB grease or similar won't be enough for metals at different ends of the galvanic table.
Loved the video bro. Keep it up.#100k
didnt know He Man was into bikes lol
Anti seize works good on bolts that get hot from movement. Locktight is good for vibrating parts. They all are good but you have to see what your bolt is going to be going through.#100k
... /... , seat posts ( to hold it firmly on place ) which one would you consider the most appropriate ??
Rust xd maybe the one for carbon seat posts