Great job. Thanks for walking us through this. You are right, there are many ways to do this. Seeing yet another puts more aha moments in the quiver for future reference. Thanks.
very beautiful finish great job my friend I personally dont do much CA finishing but the quality you produced at end made me want to try it in future. thanks for sharing! cheers Afshin.
Stephen,Excellent presentation. It is 4:15 a.m. and can't wait to get to the shop and try this on a piece ... but have to wait until 8:00 so I don't wake the neighbors. You should do more videos.
Thanks, Steve ... very informative! I have mixed results with CA finishes ... the best luck I have had is with Meguiar's PlastX, a cleaner & polish designed for headlight lenses. Never occurred to me to use my Beall system!
thanks for sharing!! Would love to see a video on the dye process and how you keep it from bleeding into the grain of the center area. I know you said you used a negative rake scraper to get the excess CA glue the went into the center but the CA is on the surface whereas I picture the dye I think would weep further into the pores of the grain.
Stephen, Great video. Been finishing pens and small turnings with CA but not my bowls. After seeing your video I'm going to try one tonight, may even try it on a Peppermill as well. Thanks and great work.
Thanks for publishing this, Stephen. I use Starbond EM02, which has a viscosity of 2 centipoises (water is 1). I use a blue shop towel to apply it to a bowl sanded to 600 grit....one or two drops on the towel and a quick swipe across the surface, only in one direction and only once. After it sets up, about 20-30 seconds, I repeat the application but in the other direction. After 5-6 coats, i put a few drops of accelerator on a towel and wipe it across the surface. After 10-11 coats, it looks great. The thin CA doesn't build up hills and valleys like the medium CA does. I am able to start with the MicroMesh pads rather than a coarser grit like 240. I use a headlight cleaner polish for my last step. By the way, the last photos of your bowl look absolutely fabulous.
Thanks, Doug. That's pretty much how Alan Trout does it as well. As I continue to develop the CA technique, I will probably cut back some on the medium CA and go with the thin CA. One of the reasons I like using the medium CA is that it gives me a little more depth to the finish. I know when I first started showing CA finishes at some of the art shows around here people thought they were made of glass.
Graeme, glad you enjoyed the video and hope you are able to take somethings from it and use them on your turnings. I have tried spray lacquer and have found that I am not good at spraying--either put it on too heavy or to light. The other thing that I like about CA over lacquer is that the CA withstands buffing better than lacquer. I have buffed thru lacquer but as of yet have not buffed thru CA.
I’ve always had problems with CA finishes. Usually don’t end up perfectly smooth and shiny. A friend told me that a solution to my problem was to use sanding sealer after the color. What do you think? Also, have you tried using dye as opposed to stain? Don’t get me wrong, Chestnut stain is a wonderful product! But it tends to mask the figure in the maple. Dye (yes, black first then scrape (sanding just won’t cut the black back enough) makes the figure explode so much more than stain. Sorry for being wordy, but if you stay with Chestnut stain, try putting a layer of sanding sealer, then a complimentary color. I have been doing this and it ads some amazing depth to the colors.
Hi Steve, you tried using Alan’s method and was wondering why it didn’t work, just wanted to hear what your experience was with his methods? Any insight would be great. Thanks!
There are several places online where you can purchase CA in large bottles (16 oz). I purchase mine from Exotic Blanks (www.exoticblanks.com/CA-Glue-and-Adhesives/). I buy it in the 16oz size and then put it in 2 oz bottles for use.
Cary, I the sanding products of Steve Worcester at turningwood.com. I use the 2" Mirka Gold Sanding Discs and the 2" Skilton Sanding Mandrel. I have used them for about eight years now and am very happy with them. Steve is a great guy to work with and is very knowledgeable about sanding.
I noticed at around 10 minutes and 50 seconds in, you we're applying the thin CA glue and then you said you came back through and smooth it out. What are you using to smooth it out with, after you do the application? I am finding that it dries up before I can go back through and smooth it out with anything and I'm having a hard time getting it smooth.
Jeremy, I'm using the paper towel to smooth it out. (I've found that the blue shop paper towels work much better than the white ones.) I put it on thick enough that I have time to take the paper towel and run it over the surface to smooth it our before the glue dries. Sometimes, it does get tacky and I get little pieces of paper towel on the surface. I just let it dry and then go back and get ride of the little pieces before I put my next coat on. Good luck, hope that helps. Steve
@@stevedoerr5846 that helps. Thanks! now when you go back over it are you using a dry portion of the paper towel or the same portion that you just applied it with?
That is a dangerous process! The Fumes are nasty! Also the danger of the glue being spun into the operators eyes is a HUGE concern... CA in the eyes... who wants that?
The CA is a much more durable and harder finish than the other finishes. It also provides a depth that some of the other finishes are not able to do. I have also found that in creating the high gloss finish of a CA finish, for me anyway, is much easier to do with the Micro Mesh sandpaper.
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Hi Stephen greetings from Huntington Beach. I enjoyed your video. Thanks for the time and effort 👍
Great job. Thanks for walking us through this. You are right, there are many ways to do this. Seeing yet another puts more aha moments in the quiver for future reference. Thanks.
Thanks for the video! Beautiful piece!
very beautiful finish great job my friend I personally dont do much CA finishing but the quality you produced at end made me want to try it in future. thanks for sharing!
cheers
Afshin.
Very informative and well done Steve. I learned a lot!
Stephen,Excellent presentation. It is 4:15 a.m. and can't wait to get to the shop and try this on a piece ... but have to wait until 8:00 so I don't wake the neighbors. You should do more videos.
Great video! Thanks for sharing. I'd like to see the gold leaf
Would love to see more videos. Thanks for sharing
Thanks, Steve ... very informative! I have mixed results with CA finishes ... the best luck I have had is with Meguiar's PlastX, a cleaner & polish designed for headlight lenses. Never occurred to me to use my Beall system!
Beautiful work - Nice Job
A well presented video. Thanks!
Very impresive thank you for sharing
Very nice work. I love my Beall Buffing System. Use it for almost all of my projects if I’m going for a shiny finish.
Nice video Stephen,cheers Colin.
thanks for your video. I'm a beginner with pen turning and it's exactly what I'm looking for pen finishing. David / Switzerland
Wow, like a jewel, so good :)
thanks for sharing!! Would love to see a video on the dye process and how you keep it from bleeding into the grain of the center area. I know you said you used a negative rake scraper to get the excess CA glue the went into the center but the CA is on the surface whereas I picture the dye I think would weep further into the pores of the grain.
Thanks great video, and beautiful finish!!
Stephen, Great video. Been finishing pens and small turnings with CA but not my bowls. After seeing your video I'm going to try one tonight, may even try it on a Peppermill as well. Thanks and great work.
Good luck Joseph. You might want to be careful if you have much detail on your peppermill, because CA will tend to fill some of the details.
Wow! New sub. Hope to see more
Great Video! I learned alot. I'm looking for more videos from you--can you post some more?
Have to say I enjoy your videos. I've learned a few things is doing a nicer finish on my game calls
Hello Steve try using the art foam pads to apply the ca on your bowls. No lint .
Thanks for publishing this, Stephen. I use Starbond EM02, which has a viscosity of 2 centipoises (water is 1). I use a blue shop towel to apply it to a bowl sanded to 600 grit....one or two drops on the towel and a quick swipe across the surface, only in one direction and only once. After it sets up, about 20-30 seconds, I repeat the application but in the other direction. After 5-6 coats, i put a few drops of accelerator on a towel and wipe it across the surface. After 10-11 coats, it looks great. The thin CA doesn't build up hills and valleys like the medium CA does. I am able to start with the MicroMesh pads rather than a coarser grit like 240. I use a headlight cleaner polish for my last step.
By the way, the last photos of your bowl look absolutely fabulous.
Thanks, Doug. That's pretty much how Alan Trout does it as well. As I continue to develop the CA technique, I will probably cut back some on the medium CA and go with the thin CA. One of the reasons I like using the medium CA is that it gives me a little more depth to the finish. I know when I first started showing CA finishes at some of the art shows around here people thought they were made of glass.
Doug, thanks for your comments. I will have to try your method the next time I put on a CA finish. Appreciate you sharing it with me. Steve
Belo trabalho ! 👍
Nice. What would be done to achieve a satin finish after sanding to a level surface????
is the buffing compounds considered food safe? I'm looking to make some cups and I want a really nice high gloss finish.
Hi Stephen, enjoyed the video and loved the end result, can I ask why CA instead of spray Lacquer.I'm fairly new to this.
Graeme, glad you enjoyed the video and hope you are able to take somethings from it and use them on your turnings. I have tried spray lacquer and have found that I am not good at spraying--either put it on too heavy or to light. The other thing that I like about CA over lacquer is that the CA withstands buffing better than lacquer. I have buffed thru lacquer but as of yet have not buffed thru CA.
I’ve always had problems with CA finishes. Usually don’t end up perfectly smooth and shiny. A friend told me that a solution to my problem was to use sanding sealer after the color. What do you think?
Also, have you tried using dye as opposed to stain? Don’t get me wrong, Chestnut stain is a wonderful product! But it tends to mask the figure in the maple. Dye (yes, black first then scrape (sanding just won’t cut the black back enough) makes the figure explode so much more than stain. Sorry for being wordy, but if you stay with Chestnut stain, try putting a layer of sanding sealer, then a complimentary color. I have been doing this and it ads some amazing depth to the colors.
I like the finger bag. What type of bags are these? I hate getting CA on myself. Lovely result!
Stuart, the little plastic bags are from pen kits. The different parts of the pen kits come in those little bags.
Hi Steve, you tried using Alan’s method and was wondering why it didn’t work, just wanted to hear what your experience was with his methods? Any insight would be great.
Thanks!
Where do you get the nice large bottles of CA like that, all I can find are the tiny pinky size bottles.
There are several places online where you can purchase CA in large bottles (16 oz). I purchase mine from Exotic Blanks (www.exoticblanks.com/CA-Glue-and-Adhesives/). I buy it in the 16oz size and then put it in 2 oz bottles for use.
Steve, what size platter blank did you use?
Danny, I use sizes anywhere from 6" all the way up to 12". The one that I used on the video was 9 3/4".
Beautiful work. What product is that on your drill for sanding?
Cary, I the sanding products of Steve Worcester at turningwood.com. I use the 2" Mirka Gold Sanding Discs and the 2" Skilton Sanding Mandrel. I have used them for about eight years now and am very happy with them. Steve is a great guy to work with and is very knowledgeable about sanding.
Steve Doerr do you use the soft pads our just the mandrel?
I just use the mandrel. I've tried the pads and don't like than. Just a personal preference..
Is the finish food safe?
I noticed at around 10 minutes and 50 seconds in, you we're applying the thin CA glue and then you said you came back through and smooth it out. What are you using to smooth it out with, after you do the application? I am finding that it dries up before I can go back through and smooth it out with anything and I'm having a hard time getting it smooth.
Jeremy, I'm using the paper towel to smooth it out. (I've found that the blue shop paper towels work much better than the white ones.) I put it on thick enough that I have time to take the paper towel and run it over the surface to smooth it our before the glue dries. Sometimes, it does get tacky and I get little pieces of paper towel on the surface. I just let it dry and then go back and get ride of the little pieces before I put my next coat on.
Good luck, hope that helps.
Steve
@@stevedoerr5846 that helps. Thanks! now when you go back over it are you using a dry portion of the paper towel or the same portion that you just applied it with?
I just use the same piece of towel that already has the CA on it.
That is a dangerous process! The Fumes are nasty! Also the danger of the glue being spun into the operators eyes is a HUGE concern... CA in the eyes... who wants that?
And ah, and ah, and ah, and ah... Don't bore me with coats. Jeez, I gave up after the 10th and ah.
Why CA finish vs lacquer/poly/etc?
The CA is a much more durable and harder finish than the other finishes. It also provides a depth that some of the other finishes are not able to do. I have also found that in creating the high gloss finish of a CA finish, for me anyway, is much easier to do with the Micro Mesh sandpaper.
Here’s an idea . Mark SILAY sells vonex . I think you would like it better than white diamond .
Get some Gluboost Fill N Finish. Thank me later. Best stuff around. Period.
I’d like to see some more videos on the Gluboost used on woodturning
L,
Ni
Nice
20 coats?! Just give it two coats of spray lacquer. Duh.
I bet shines BETTER than 32 coats of medium ca.SAFE TURNING, John