Dude you just saved my ass, I was flushing my coolant and couldn't figure out how to drain the air. Shit was gurgling, i was about ready to make an insurance claim on my dumb ass.
@@tristansharp7602 hahaha funny shit Did mine on my 13 charger and week later, gurgling and growling and shit from my dash and car was off! I'm like wtf is that and after so many videos, I didn't "burp it enough times!" So did it all over again today and drained it and used that flush cleaner and I guess it was good cause shit was still dark af. We good now 👌👌👌😎
hey there, try liquid wrench or another penetrating fluid, if that doesn't work leave it and use the temperature sensor hole as the bleed hole and let the coolant drip out of that location and re-install the temp sensor, alternatively you can remove the thermostat housing hose and fill coolant through there until coolant drips out of there and then re install the thermostat housing. thnx for watching!
hey there, coolant system might be routed differently depending on year and trim, it may be the reason for different flow rates out of the valve. Thank you for watching!
Hey there you can also bleed by removing the temperature sensor and filling the coolant until the coolant spills out if the temperature sensor hole. alternatively you can remove the coolant hose from the thermostat housing and fill the water pump with coolant until the coolant spills out of the neck of the thermostat housing. Thnx for watching!
@@moparbro oh ok thought so it's tornado weather here and was to scared to run out and look at my water pump to see. I had a subscriber ask me a question and wanted to do some research before I gave him a suggestion
Try this ruclips.net/video/hgVk7SPOK2w/видео.html if the reservoir is properly full the system should self bleed through the reservoir cap. Thnx for watching!
I have a 2016 dodge charger srt 392 6.4 I changed my oil cooler, water. Pump, radiator, and new coolant reservoir. I’m not getting any coolant flow. When I leave the cap off the reservoir the car doesn’t over heat and when I put the cap on the car starts to get hot. I can’t get it to circulate. Any help will be appreciated. Your model bleeder is different on my end . On my car there’s a hose that connects where yours bleeds
Ah gotcha, try filling the water pump through the neck of the thermostat housing, remove the coolant hose and fill the neck until it drips out. If that doesn't work it seems like a blockage somewhere, if that's the case I would go to a shop or even mr lube or a place similar and have them do a coolant flush, the process in which they attached a machine to the coolant system and push new coolant through the system. This should fix it. thnx for watching!
@@moparbro thank you for your advice, I got it to work by applying it directly down to the water pump. Thank God I didn’t need to go into a shop after all that work 🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽 thank you for the deed back my brotha
hey there, yea it would, we did the same procedure for a 2011 chrysler 300c 5.7L hemi, for the 2015+ hemis we leave thermostat housing open and fill the coolant until it drips out of the thermostat housing, alternatively if you cant remove the bleeder screw you can bleed it through the thermostat housing like the 2015+ hemi guys. thnx for watching!
@@joseRodriguez-pk9ld ah I would take it to the nearest shop and have them coolant flush the system, it's not that much and atleast you will have fresh coolant in your entire system now
@@moparbro hey bro I took it to the shop and they "FlUSHED it " through the resovior only ? ...they put the machine that supposedly sucked it all up ???but they did everything through the resovior
Hey there! You can try this ruclips.net/video/hgVk7SPOK2w/видео.html basically run the mopar with the reservoir tank cap off for about 30 minutes and monitor it and keep adding fluid as air bubbles come out
Hi, and thank you for your video!. I'll have to do the coolant flush&fill tomorrow on my 2009 Dodge Durango 5.7 Hemi, and this will be very useful, just one inquiry about the seal of that bleeder plug, teflon is OK with high temp.?, or should be better to use high temp. thread sealant?. Thanks again!
hey there thnx for watching! Teflon isn't needed also you're right not sure it lasts at high temp, I have seen mechanics use nothing as it's a tapered thread, but something else high temp wouldn't hurt putting in!
What year is yours? I have a 2015 6.4L and where that plug is I have a hose there that goes down and under the pullys and I lose it from there...I assume its the same thing because the pump looks the same.
hey there, you can remove the radiator hose from the thermostat housing neck and fill the waterpump with orange coolant until it drips out of the thermostat housing neck where it attached to the radiator hose, it's about the same level as the nut of the water pumps so essentially it does the same thing. once coolant drips out of the thromastat house, re install the radiator hose and let it run in the driveway and see if it all workEd out., if that doesn't work go for a coolant flush at a shop.
What year is that because my 392 has an auxiliary pump and there is a hose right there where you removed your plug from. So is it safe to assume that’s where I bleed the system even though it has an auxiliary water pump?? Just asking because I recently swapped my tstat for a 180 tstat and soon after I noticed it running warmer than usual I did not bleed the system when I swapped the tstats. #octanered392
Hey there, ah gotcha yours is similar to my 2019 jeep srt 392, when I switched my t stat to the 180 like you did in my 2019, I opened the radiator cap and filled coolant into the thermostat housing neck until the water pump fill up and dripped out of the thermostat housing neck, after that I re connected the coolant hose that attached to the thermostat house and filled coolant into the radiator until its full and bubbles stop exiting, once the radiator is full put the radiator cap back on and fill the coolant reservoir to the cold fill full line. After all that run it in the drive way for 15 minutes with the heater running on full.blast so that the coolant circulates also through the heater core. If the coolant temp gauge shows it's good and steady, take it for a driver and if all is good ur good! thnx for watching!
"it's better to have something happen in your driveway than on the side of the road" words to live by
Thnx for watching!
Thanks for the video. This worked great, and my 6.1 challenger is no longer overheating.
I bleed mines a month ago every often it would get hot an bubble at idle and when I turn the car off no leaks were present an it didn't overheat
That’s what I thought too until I drove my 2500 with the 6.4 hemi. It’s a beast.
Thanks. Had to school some mechanics at a valvoline shop. They had no clue about removing water pump plug or burping.
I've heard that teflon tape can gum up the thermostat or sensors.. To use liquid thread locker. Not sure if it's true.. but wanted mention it.
However told you that knew you would believe they were serious
Same process with the 2019 SRT Jeep Grand Cherokee?
hey there, yep here it is: ruclips.net/video/QNXIGWKil7E/видео.htmlsi=NEGccC8rqGeq5Su9
Dude you just saved my ass, I was flushing my coolant and couldn't figure out how to drain the air. Shit was gurgling, i was about ready to make an insurance claim on my dumb ass.
*kidding about the claim*
@@tristansharp7602 hahaha funny shit
Did mine on my 13 charger and week later, gurgling and growling and shit from my dash and car was off! I'm like wtf is that and after so many videos, I didn't "burp it enough times!" So did it all over again today and drained it and used that flush cleaner and I guess it was good cause shit was still dark af. We good now 👌👌👌😎
im tryna keep my magnum forever. it would be a future classic
Agreed!
Any idea on how to remove the water pump plug that is stuck?
hey there, try liquid wrench or another penetrating fluid, if that doesn't work leave it and use the temperature sensor hole as the bleed hole and let the coolant drip out of that location and re-install the temp sensor, alternatively you can remove the thermostat housing hose and fill coolant through there until coolant drips out of there and then re install the thermostat housing. thnx for watching!
Did you ever notice it was only getting hot while parked and did your reservoir ever bubbles up ?
Dude I’m having that exact same problem
Any update on this?
@@beeezlyy3230 it was my radiator
@@ReptarART was it clogged or just bad and how did you test it to find out that is what it was
@@beeezlyy3230 was bad had to take it to the dealer
pull the temp sensor, it is higher than the plug
Did you drain the coolant before hand? And how much?
How come my hemo doesn't pour out of the bleeder valve as fast? My car intakes the coolant very slowly as well
hey there, coolant system might be routed differently depending on year and trim, it may be the reason for different flow rates out of the valve. Thank you for watching!
Yo my bro Are you going to show how to drain it?
My bleeder screw is stripped and won’t come out. What should I do?
Hey there you can also bleed by removing the temperature sensor and filling the coolant until the coolant spills out if the temperature sensor hole. alternatively you can remove the coolant hose from the thermostat housing and fill the water pump with coolant until the coolant spills out of the neck of the thermostat housing. Thnx for watching!
@@moparbro thank you!! Great vids
@@anthony2039 no problem! thnx again for watching!
My bleed port has a whole tube connected to it. Have you ever seen that?
you must be talking about to heater tube on the water pump
I have a 2018 ram 1500 5.7 hemi if I’m in traffic it overheats would that be a cause also.
hey there, yea could be air in the system, give it a try, if that doesn't work it's probably the thermostat. hope this helps!
Is this the same procedure with the 5.7 hemi
hey there, it's the same procedure for the 5.7 hemi, iv got a 2011 300c and the bleeder is in the same location as the 6.4L. Thank you for watching!
@@moparbro oh ok thought so it's tornado weather here and was to scared to run out and look at my water pump to see. I had a subscriber ask me a question and wanted to do some research before I gave him a suggestion
@@tobroke2007 ah gotcha stay safe !!
Another way to bleed in case, plug wont come out?
Try this ruclips.net/video/hgVk7SPOK2w/видео.html if the reservoir is properly full the system should self bleed through the reservoir cap. Thnx for watching!
I have a 2016 dodge charger srt 392 6.4
I changed my oil cooler, water. Pump, radiator, and new coolant reservoir. I’m not getting any coolant flow. When I leave the cap off the reservoir the car doesn’t over heat and when I put the cap on the car starts to get hot. I can’t get it to circulate. Any help will be appreciated. Your model bleeder is different on my end . On my car there’s a hose that connects where yours bleeds
Ah gotcha, try filling the water pump through the neck of the thermostat housing, remove the coolant hose and fill the neck until it drips out. If that doesn't work it seems like a blockage somewhere, if that's the case I would go to a shop or even mr lube or a place similar and have them do a coolant flush, the process in which they attached a machine to the coolant system and push new coolant through the system. This should fix it. thnx for watching!
@@moparbro thank you for your advice, I got it to work by applying it directly down to the water pump. Thank God I didn’t need to go into a shop after all that work 🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽 thank you for the deed back my brotha
@@emmanuelmatamoros6525 Great to hear! thank you watching my channel 🔥🔥🙏
I am having the same isssue
Would this work on my 2012 dodge charger se. Bleeding it thru my thermostat housing screw? While pouring coolant thru resivour?
hey there, yea it would, we did the same procedure for a 2011 chrysler 300c 5.7L hemi, for the 2015+ hemis we leave thermostat housing open and fill the coolant until it drips out of the thermostat housing, alternatively if you cant remove the bleeder screw you can bleed it through the thermostat housing like the 2015+ hemi guys. thnx for watching!
THANKS FOR YOUR FAST FEEDBACK. I WILL DEFINITELY GET ON IT THIS WEEKEND. 👍
@@marvinstanley514 np! have fun 🔥🔥🍻
I changed it with green coolant is it bad !!?it was Preston ALL VEHICLE?
Hey there, if you changed the whole system with green coolant you should be good, in most cases they don't mix and turn into gel
@@moparbro I left some orange in there 😬
@@joseRodriguez-pk9ld ah I would take it to the nearest shop and have them coolant flush the system, it's not that much and atleast you will have fresh coolant in your entire system now
@@moparbro alright I'll take it tomorrow thank you !
@@moparbro hey bro I took it to the shop and they "FlUSHED it " through the resovior only ? ...they put the machine that supposedly sucked it all up ???but they did everything through the resovior
Can I do everything except removing the water pump plug with similar results? The plug is stripped, that’s why I ask. Thanks
Hey there! You can try this ruclips.net/video/hgVk7SPOK2w/видео.html basically run the mopar with the reservoir tank cap off for about 30 minutes and monitor it and keep adding fluid as air bubbles come out
another option is to use an extractor screw like this one www.amazon.ca/dp/B07MRLLPJX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TKK.FbQ83EYZ7
Hi, and thank you for your video!. I'll have to do the coolant flush&fill tomorrow on my 2009 Dodge Durango 5.7 Hemi, and this will be very useful, just one inquiry about the seal of that bleeder plug, teflon is OK with high temp.?, or should be better to use high temp. thread sealant?.
Thanks again!
hey there thnx for watching! Teflon isn't needed also you're right not sure it lasts at high temp, I have seen mechanics use nothing as it's a tapered thread, but something else high temp wouldn't hurt putting in!
I wouldn't use any thread sealer you'll never get it off. Be a pain next time you gotta do it
Will this procedure work the same way on my 2012 charger rt
hey there yea should be the same procedure for the 5.7, my 2011 300c has the bleeder in the same location
Should you mix it with water 50 / 50 or you dont have 2 ??????
Im 3 years late but u less its already 50/50 . U gotta add distilled water
What year 392 is this I can’t find my bleeder screw on my 2017
@@woodrowhemiway on the newer 392s it's not there
Great job, keep up the good work.
What year is your challenger?
Hey there! 2014, thnx for watching!
Good work. Helpful vid 🔥
thank you for watching!
Why you temp cluster is lower than mine I have a 2011 challenger 293 srt8 and my gages are 170 than middle 215 than super hot 260?
His are Celsius, your's are likely Farenheit. 👍
What year is yours? I have a 2015 6.4L and where that plug is I have a hose there that goes down and under the pullys and I lose it from there...I assume its the same thing because the pump looks the same.
hey there, yea should be the same, mines a 2014 6.4
Great write up man!
Thank you!
What if no fluid comes out?
Water pump bad
Thanks bro , I was looking for a long time
Bro i cant get that nut of the water pump to let air out of my system . Heat works better when cars accelerating need to fix it
hey there, you can remove the radiator hose from the thermostat housing neck and fill the waterpump with orange coolant until it drips out of the thermostat housing neck where it attached to the radiator hose, it's about the same level as the nut of the water pumps so essentially it does the same thing. once coolant drips out of the thromastat house, re install the radiator hose and let it run in the driveway and see if it all workEd out., if that doesn't work go for a coolant flush at a shop.
@Fred_eazy21 thx for the reply . I heard I can also use that temp sensor screw also. I have 6.4 hemi
@gss1242 hey there, yep, you can also use the temp sensor hole as the bleeder hole, might be better as it sits a bit higher too.
Your vids just keep getting better and better ❤
Thnx!
What year is that because my 392 has an auxiliary pump and there is a hose right there where you removed your plug from. So is it safe to assume that’s where I bleed the system even though it has an auxiliary water pump?? Just asking because I recently swapped my tstat for a 180 tstat and soon after I noticed it running warmer than usual I did not bleed the system when I swapped the tstats. #octanered392
Hey there, ah gotcha yours is similar to my 2019 jeep srt 392, when I switched my t stat to the 180 like you did in my 2019, I opened the radiator cap and filled coolant into the thermostat housing neck until the water pump fill up and dripped out of the thermostat housing neck, after that I re connected the coolant hose that attached to the thermostat house and filled coolant into the radiator until its full and bubbles stop exiting, once the radiator is full put the radiator cap back on and fill the coolant reservoir to the cold fill full line. After all that run it in the drive way for 15 minutes with the heater running on full.blast so that the coolant circulates also through the heater core. If the coolant temp gauge shows it's good and steady, take it for a driver and if all is good ur good! thnx for watching!
ORANGE CRUSH FOR ALL!.....I mean.....Fanta?...RIGHT! FANTA!...
OEM Fanta yes haha
@@moparbro ...South African Fanta ....now THAT is something...which you can't find anymore..
@@BMan100 lmao
that mopar orange koolaid
“No explosions”🤣🤣🤣😭💀💀
Sweet!
Thank you!
love it!
!!
For maintenance Vidoes please click here!
ruclips.net/p/PLQiv4YLX3f2HbLOdocic7KZj9ryFM-bQ_
Not once to you burp the system lol
Omg....that engine looks so dirty 😳...Please tell me this car is not being used as a daily drive even in the snow....🤦