I love listening to older guys, like yourself, explain the meaning behind tooling nomenclature. We appreciate your efforts and knowledge. I am sure that you offer more insight into mechanical workings than most books. Thank you!
Mr. Pete, As a teenager I was using my dad’s drill press and putting much more stress on it than recommend. When the chuck up and dropped off the shaft I thought I had somehow broke the thing. My dad didn’t suffer idiots lightly and just knew I was in a world of hurt when I had to tell him about it. I was pretty contrite as I confessed breaking his machine. Imagine my surprise when he started laughing! That was my introduction to the Jacob’s taper.
Hi Mr Pete, you are such a godsend for me. My dad was an artisan, but he passed 4 years ago. I then became the proud and dumb owner of 2 milling machines and 2 lathes. Turning to the internet for lessons, your content was among the safest and sound advice to be found. im slightly less dumb today and you still teach me what my pops sure wanted to. its because of you alone that i have an income today during this covid pandemic. may the good lord keep you well and short of nothing good in this life!
Sir, this video is most informative. We just purchased a 1979 Test Rite Bench 100 3-speed drill press and repaired the motor. Now it needs a new chuck. The taper on the bottom of the arbor seems to be something between a JT33 and JT3. But the length of the taper is 1.170" which is longer than either JT. The taper dimensions are: D = .678" and d = .630". Of note is that the chuck on there now does not slide all the way up the taper. It only seats up about .800". The upper part of the arbor is not a Morse taper. It is nearly a foot long, straight no taper, and has a bearing on it down low. Up top it has splines that mesh inside the belt drive pulley. By using the information and links you provided here, we found that it is a JT6 taper. Whew. Thank you!
Keep feeding my mind with these great tutorials,Straight to the point` No bulls--t interfering music and no waffling on about other less meaningful crap just to fill time, You show and talk about the matter in hand,Other RUclipsrs need to take heed `cut the music out and less on your faces and more on the subjects at hand,You educate so many thousand`s. Its great watching this stuff that ive always wondered how these chucks stayed connected. Great job sir.
Funny. Life is all about timing. I picked up a chuck the other day and needed to replace the arbor. Your video came just as I was getting up to do it. So instead of a hammer and chisel approach, I looked like a skilled craftsman. If only someone was watching over my shoulder to appreciate my skill. Merry Christmas to you and your familt.
Merry Christmas Jimmy. I spent the day with the kirkPatrick brothers of aluminum tank. They had a great Christmas party. They were the ones that gave you the aluminum drop off. Anyway, they are now manufacturing huge aluminum fuel tanks for the union pacific railroad. I had a nice tour of their shops.
When I find a raised step like that I don't need to drill a hole if I can find washers or make a shim that is thicker then the step. Then I use the wedges normally as you showed. Love your channel for the tips mrpete !
Hello, I use to be a tooth maker and did a lot of implant work. There was a lot of different systems when they first came out, held on with little gold screws which would break or get dropped down the patients throat when trying to install. Finally a system came out using the Morris taper and they held great. Nice video, God bless, Aloha
This is a great Video Mr. Pete !! It reaches for every kind of worker. " The basics may be mundane, but form the foundation for everything" Thanks again for the instruction.
I have no machine shop, sir, but I did just buy a relatively cheap 12" Chinese-made drill press, and wanted to use a different chuck on it than it arrived with. Until now, I was clueless about arbors. But thanks to this video, I have a very good understanding of what to order up for my press. Listening to you was like listening to my old shop teacher: very informative. Thank you!
Thank you sir, for the time and patience in showing another generation how things are made/ done/ put together etc. You are providing an invaluable service to those of us who have little other recourse to finding out what we neeeeeed to know!
Thanks MrPete. I just recently had a mishap with my Jacobs 14N. I was using a hole saw on some 1/2 thick steel in my Bridgeport mill. Yes the cutter, "grabbed" and it bent the 1/2 dia. to 3JT arbor. I purchased the proper Jacobs wedges and tried to remove the bent arbor. No luck. I went ahead and drilled a 1/4 dia hole in the chuck and drove the chuck off with a, "high quality" socket head cap screw (SHCS). Worked great !
This is great, I'm struggling to get an R8 J6 taper from my Albrecht chuck, even though it's not a blind hole it just will not come off, even with a good punch with a dead blow hammer, so I've sent off for some Jacobs wedges, (not cheap) and will use the methods you've shown to hopefully remove the stubborn thing, once again it's your vids that come up trumps on a search, many thanks Mr Pete, cheers Dave UK.
Thanks that was very interesting, I did not know those wedges were available, but I can see there could be a problem when removing a tight fitting taper if the wrong wedge was hit with the hammer, I did notice you hit the wedge that was against the flat face of the chuck which in my opinion was the correct one to hit, the other wedge is only resting against a small shoulder so believe if this one was hit then the forward movement of the wedge could cause it to splay out and over the shoulder. It may also benefit to have the wedge that's against the small shoulder further in than the other one (all the way if possible) then there would be less chance of it splaying out.
@@mrpete222saw Patrick of Active Atom remove a ridiculously tiny watchmakers chuck with wedges a few years ago. Can't find it anymore. But never say never get them out. I know you, Lyle. Make a parting tool on the surface grinder of the EXACT size needed and BAM! Problem remedied.
All of this is common knowledge to me, as I was a machinist for about 16 years... But I love hearing you talk about this. I really miss the job but alas trucking offered a much larger paycheck. You keep up the good videos and I will keep watching. PS. I love how you use a scribe as a pointer.
The Jacobs taper comes in two flavors. One you can't get apart when you want and the other style you can't get to line up straight and stick together no matter what!
thank you soooooooooooo much sir, I was collecting info on tool holders and tapers and to be honest internet is a deep hole and videos like these are so helpful
very good show and tell on the jacobs taper system. it seem the world of machining is full of tapers. maybe you should keep on going and make a series on tapers. there is much to explain here.
I have a Delta Drill Press wih a spindle solid with 33JT. and a chuck that goes up to 1/2" the problem I have the chuck keeps coming off. I have cleaned both end the problem still there. is there a way to fix this Ehey don;t sell new spindle for it. and I just bought a new chuck supposdlyJacab probably made in china Hope it will stay in. thank you for the veryinformative video only I wish if you showed more about the chuck with the coller.
I have a terribly bizarre chuck I may need some pointers on. It's some kind of interrupted thread with a lock nut that engages the interruption in such a way it can't rotate. The chuck is some type of automatic spring loaded thing, and I'd really like to get it on some type of usable shank.
Thanks for the information. I have the exact same no 34 Jacobs chuck and needed an R8 adapter for it. When I searched for an article to determine the size I needed, your video was right there. I find your videos very informative. BTW: I made the spring loaded tap follower that you showed in one of your videos, and I use it often!
Funny seeing a Rohm here as well, I got two, a small 1-13mm on my Lurem260 and a 1-16mm on my drill press, I changed out the latter for a keyless one for ease of use. But the Rohm went all lubricated up in a small plastic bag and then in a nice box for safekeeping :)
Thanks Mr. Pete! Great information. Amazing timing as well, on Wednesday I purchased a little bench-top drill press that has no chuck so I need to measure it to see what size the taper is.
Hi Mr Pete! Happy holidays to you and your family! Your videos are always so informative and helpful. I really appreciate all the effort you put in to teaching us!
I just took out 2 of them. MT1 to JT3 i had to drill a hole in them and make my own wedge. One is messed up and i need a JT3 reamer for the chuck. Also i have a JT 0 to 5/16" chuck with a MT-0 on it. Cute little thing.
Great job clearing up the differences and examples of Whay l what you might see out there..i subscribed half way through the video bc i needed no more convincing. Good job i like videos like this
I have been waiting for just this type of video Thanks to you I now know I need a JT#33 drill chuck Thanks mrpete! You mentioned a "Threaded collier" on some of the older drill press and that is just what I have- however that part is what also gave me fits because as I turned on the drill press that collier spun up and jammed against the spindle? stopping the drill press cold every time!-I still have to work out how that is supposed to work ?lol BUT it was also the reason I was able to buy the Delta Rockwell floor drill press for $80 because the man said the motor was froze up (its not) Thanks again and as always Two Thumbs Up Sir!!!
I have a Jacobs chuck that I bought from ebay that is threaded.. I bought it for a project and it is unused, the only problem is that it has a 1/2" left hand thread .. I had no clue when I bought it .. I guess it was used for some multiple spindle application which uses left hand drill bits.. Mike in Louisiana (Ramsay 1)
Instead of drilling a hole to drive the chuck off(,which is nearly impossible on a drill press),I drilled and tapped the hole so I can use a forcing screw to pull it off
Holy crap the mess of sizes and tapers! Who could come up with something that erratic!? They could have just said "Hey.. 2 degree angle is kinda ok, lets go with that." And the numbering? Why not 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9 ? no no no.. lets mark them 0,1,2,2 again,3,4,5,6 and lastly 33 ! And what about the sizes for each corresponding number??? Where they on drugs? From smallest to biggest 0, 1, 2 & 2.0, 33, 6, 3, 4, 5... Well. I guess the imperial system is such a mess this fits right in there. Great video non the less.
Nice! I may have to make a new arbor for my new-to-me drill press as the chuck has some wobble to it. Had no idea how to remove the old one. You always seem to be my go to guy for solid advice😁. Found this very helpful, thanks for the share😊. Chris
Oddly enough, I was on Little Machine Shop's website looking at tapers yesterday. My step-father bought a Shop Smith about eight months ago and his passion is turning wooden bowls. He uses a Forstner bit to drill a hole in the wood and then uses some sort of expanding holder that holds the wood in the hole when he turns it, but this leaves a fairly big hole in the bottom of the bowl. Anyway, he wants to set things up differently and really wants a drill chuck for the tailstock and I stumbled across this old Atlas lathe drill chuck, but as far as I can figure it's a #7 Brown & Sharpe taper and he needs a #2 Morse taper. I have been looking for a reducer sleeve, but I've had no luck.
Great video. I was researching how to remove a #33 JT drill chuck and wished to order the correct wedges. Perhaps I am overlooking something obvious, the #33 does not seem to have a wedge set that fits it with a fork I.D. of .605-.675 being necessary. I ordered a set that was listed to fit #6 and #33, but it is too large for the #33. I was able to use a 16mm open end wrench that head enough taper to successfully pop the chuck off. Any other insights on removing a #33 are greatly appreciated.
we have a 1970's Duracraft or (duracap) served well the chuck is done, I tried everything, took quill out used wedges used heat I do not know if its screw on, tried that . All these years still runs nicely, No marks on table shame to send it, save the motor pulleys all for a worn chuck I can not remove and I am your age too since 1960 shop class. How about cutting the quill and bore and thread it for a normal threaded chuck>? My Avey 1900s big guy still rules. Flat belt of course......thoughts Lyle
I want to fit a Jacobs Morse taper to a wet core drill drill. The head of the core drill has a 1.25 inch UNC male thread. Is this possible ? Or must I engineer a bespoke Morse taper sheath having a female 1.25 inch thread on it ? I want water to go inside the Morse taper sheath and then onto the drill chuck & /twist drill to cool the tip to drill steel. thank you for the video.
Do you know of any Jacobs taper to a larger JT? I have a cheep O drill press that has a spindle with a JT33 I want use a precision chuck with a JT3. Thanks great tips. Thank you for helping a want-to-bee machinist .
You could always drill through the chuck as Mr. Pete showed and use a press to push the arbor out. No guarantee on what the tapers would look like if you need that kind of force though!
Tried to get on measuring, 3.148 degrees, doesn't make since, having to use the compound at 180 flat so I travel .1 as opposed to the 2 on the dial. Indicator skills must not be up to par. Or it's just aftermarket. ANY thoughts Mr Pete?
18:21 "when I nod my head, you hit it"... :) Wasn't that a Three Stooges joke? (Wise philosophers, they were!) Love and best wishes for a happy festive season to you and yours from me and mine (from Down Under), Mr Pete.
I don't know why use tapping to connect the shaft and chuck. I am afraid of some day the chuck will fly out to hit someone if the rpm is very large. It's a dangerous way to install the chuck.
This is timely, I don't know how it happened but my jacobs chuck came off its morse taper arbor recently and I noticed this smaller taper and was wondering about it. It went back together and is working fine.
Sir I wish I could talk to you direct , I got a Chicago DP 515 drill press that works good but when it starts to cut material the bit moves to one side a little bit , and I'm new to a drill press , I do know it says JT - 2 1/2 made in 1977
Mr pete , im not able to find a JT # 2 1/2 chuck for my Chicago DP 515 The shaft goes from pulley to the chuck , With a nut just above the chuck , i was wondering is it possible to change the setup to include the MT setup ?
I was taught the tang is NOT there for power transfer but only for extracting the tool from the holder. All power gets transferred through the taper itself.
Concerning the folding wedges, I doubt a tremendous amount of hammering would be necessary even an old, seized arbor; the force exerted by folding wedges is unbelievably powerful and is a technique that has been used variously for thousands of years.
Hi Mr Pete....thank you very much for the video. Is very helpfull. Which wedge fit right in a JT 33? (0.624 inches). Because N°2 wedge it wouldn´t fit...and the N°3 is way to big. Thanks in advance.
Very informative video Mr. Pete. Thank you. My problem, aside from being a cheapskate, is that I have the drill stem removed from an old Jet Model 13R drill press. It is a JT6 at the business end but is a long 4 splined shaft on the other. My problem is it looks like that spun shaft you have there and the previous owner tightened it up by center punching the taper in several places. It is about .6663 on the big end and .615 on the small end. I'm guessing this drill press has to be at least 60 years old. The Jacobs chuck that was on it has seen better days. I was wondering if you thought it would be feasible to turn it down to a JT33 as I have one of those new in the box. The drill press is built like a tank. I have a new Jet drill press that pales in comparison to it. Any advice would be greatly appreciated
@222 I made a couple practice cuts until I got the angle of the taper right and worked up the courage to attempt turning the JT33 taper on the spindle. I am very happy with the results. Thank you for your insight.
Jacob chucks with the collar are listed as Jacobs 33C. Kits are available for about half the price of a new chuck. www.jacobschuck.com/drill-chuck-removal-guide
All the common tapers (Morse, Jacobs, Jarno, B&S, NMTB/INT, R8) in the world are all American in origin. This probably reflects the global dominance of American machine tools from about 1890 onwards. There's nothing particularly clever or special about these taper geometries - only that they are standard. Thank goodness we have standard tapers - my Britannia No.13 lathe (about 1895) uses a perfectly adequate spindle and tailstock taper except that it's proprietary and completely non-standard - meaning that you have to try to make your own arbors and centres or convert this antique machine to a conventional taper. Britannia adopted Morse tapers from about 1900 onwards. Wish they'd done it sooner.
Interesting tapers talk mrpete there are too many to keep tack of we find ourselves in current use of 3 types of Morse style and there are only two of us here in the shop. Too many arbors we think even your catalog shows that. Great end-mill share people need to understand to a greater degree side pressures and tensions in milling work we hope you helped them here about that. Yes the chuck is really ugly #6 fit? needs a rework turn that baby into a show boat.
Be careful sir it could also be a B taper which is the DIN standard (more common in Europe). More normal sizes are B12 (similar to JT1) B16 (JT33) and B18 (JT3). If im not mistaken the number in the B relates to the large end diameter in milimeters rounded to the nearest mm
Hello again. I am so confused ,I bought an old Jacobs star drill press, not the floor one but the one that goes on a bench, it has stamped on the Jacobs taper no 3 shank 6 made in England Im not sure what the numbers mean, there seams to be no taper thickness related to its number, Then some one told me I need a 33 then I was told a number 3,what is the 3 and the 6 related to,?
I cannot help you. Go to the Jacobs chuck Website. In their catalog I believe there’s a little chart telling you everything you need to know about the sizers and diameters. Also this may be in machineries handbook
I need some help. I have been trying to determine the taper of my Jacobs chuck so I can get a #2 Morse taper to JT Morse taper. My problem is the info on my chuck says it is a No. 32. According to the chart you showed (with the measurement I took ) it is a #2 short. I can’t find that description in any tool catalog I have. Any suggestions?
I love listening to older guys, like yourself, explain the meaning behind tooling nomenclature. We appreciate your efforts and knowledge. I am sure that you offer more insight into mechanical workings than most books. Thank you!
Thank you very much. I am glad you noticed. Very few people tell me that.
Mr. Pete,
As a teenager I was using my dad’s drill press and putting much more stress on it than recommend. When the chuck up and dropped off the shaft I thought I had somehow broke the thing. My dad didn’t suffer idiots lightly and just knew I was in a world of hurt when I had to tell him about it. I was pretty contrite as I confessed breaking his machine. Imagine my surprise when he started laughing! That was my introduction to the Jacob’s taper.
Life's lessons well remembered. Sounds like you had a cool dad!
I have a old drill press.I need the keys for the chucks .Do you know how I can order them
Hi Mr Pete, you are such a godsend for me.
My dad was an artisan, but he passed 4 years ago.
I then became the proud and dumb owner of 2 milling machines and 2 lathes. Turning to the internet for lessons, your content was among the safest and sound advice to be found.
im slightly less dumb today and you still teach me what my pops sure wanted to.
its because of you alone that i have an income today during this covid pandemic.
may the good lord keep you well and short of nothing good in this life!
Thank you very much for that kind of comment. It pleases me greatly if I have helped you in any small way. Keep watching.
Finally, some one who clarifies all my questioning about tapers.. Thank you very much.
👍
Sir, this video is most informative. We just purchased a 1979 Test Rite Bench 100 3-speed drill press and repaired the motor. Now it needs a new chuck. The taper on the bottom of the arbor seems to be something between a JT33 and JT3. But the length of the taper is 1.170" which is longer than either JT. The taper dimensions are: D = .678" and d = .630". Of note is that the chuck on there now does not slide all the way up the taper. It only seats up about .800".
The upper part of the arbor is not a Morse taper. It is nearly a foot long, straight no taper, and has a bearing on it down low. Up top it has splines that mesh inside the belt drive pulley.
By using the information and links you provided here, we found that it is a JT6 taper. Whew. Thank you!
Keep feeding my mind with these great tutorials,Straight to the point` No bulls--t interfering music and no waffling on about other less meaningful crap just to fill time,
You show and talk about the matter in hand,Other RUclipsrs need to take heed `cut the music out and less on your faces and more on the subjects at hand,You educate so many thousand`s.
Its great watching this stuff that ive always wondered how these chucks stayed connected.
Great job sir.
Thank you very much for your kindness. Yes, I do not know why some people insist on using Music, usually bad music
Funny. Life is all about timing. I picked up a chuck the other day and needed to replace the arbor. Your video came just as I was getting up to do it. So instead of a hammer and chisel approach, I looked like a skilled craftsman. If only someone was watching over my shoulder to appreciate my skill. Merry Christmas to you and your familt.
This is great reference to clear the taper mystery!!
Merry Christmas Jimmy. I spent the day with the kirkPatrick brothers of aluminum tank. They had a great Christmas party. They were the ones that gave you the aluminum drop off. Anyway, they are now manufacturing huge aluminum fuel tanks for the union pacific railroad. I had a nice tour of their shops.
Wow been formulating a project for that aluminum! Say hi
There is something fascinating about tapers. Great video
It's like the tool is held on with reverse psychology
When I find a raised step like that I don't need to drill a hole if I can find washers or make a shim that is thicker then the step. Then I use the wedges normally as you showed. Love your channel for the tips mrpete !
Hello, I use to be a tooth maker and did a lot of implant work. There was a lot of different systems when they first came out, held on with little gold screws which would break or get dropped down the patients throat when trying to install. Finally a system came out using the Morris taper and they held great. Nice video, God bless, Aloha
This is a great Video Mr. Pete !! It reaches for every kind of worker. " The basics may be mundane, but form the foundation for everything" Thanks again for the instruction.
Thanks
I have no machine shop, sir, but I did just buy a relatively cheap 12" Chinese-made drill press, and wanted to use a different chuck on it than it arrived with. Until now, I was clueless about arbors. But thanks to this video, I have a very good understanding of what to order up for my press. Listening to you was like listening to my old shop teacher: very informative. Thank you!
👍👍👍
Thank you sir, for the time and patience in showing another generation how things are made/ done/ put together etc. You are providing an invaluable service to those of us who have little other recourse to finding out what we neeeeeed to know!
Thank you very much
Thanks MrPete. I just recently had a mishap with my Jacobs 14N. I was using a hole saw on some 1/2 thick steel in my Bridgeport mill. Yes the cutter, "grabbed" and it bent the 1/2 dia. to 3JT arbor. I purchased the proper Jacobs wedges and tried to remove the bent arbor. No luck. I went ahead and drilled a 1/4 dia hole in the chuck and drove the chuck off with a, "high quality" socket head cap screw (SHCS). Worked great !
That was a good solution
Once again, you are a tremendous resource Mr Pete.
Thank you very much
Seems like a good use of dry ice from your other video, to shrink the taper while heating the chuck slightly to remove a really stuck chuck.
This is great, I'm struggling to get an R8 J6 taper from my Albrecht chuck, even though it's not a blind hole it just will not come off, even with a good punch with a dead blow hammer, so I've sent off for some Jacobs wedges, (not cheap) and will use the methods you've shown to hopefully remove the stubborn thing, once again it's your vids that come up trumps on a search, many thanks Mr Pete, cheers Dave UK.
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Awesome reference material. I watch your older videos on a regular basis.
Thanks that was very interesting, I did not know those wedges were available, but I can see there could be a problem when removing a tight fitting taper if the wrong wedge was hit with the hammer, I did notice you hit the wedge that was against the flat face of the chuck which in my opinion was the correct one to hit, the other wedge is only resting against a small shoulder so believe if this one was hit then the forward movement of the wedge could cause it to splay out and over the shoulder.
It may also benefit to have the wedge that's against the small shoulder further in than the other one (all the way if possible) then there would be less chance of it splaying out.
Yes, sometimes you never can get them separated
@@mrpete222saw Patrick of Active Atom remove a ridiculously tiny watchmakers chuck with wedges a few years ago. Can't find it anymore. But never say never get them out. I know you, Lyle. Make a parting tool on the surface grinder of the EXACT size needed and BAM! Problem remedied.
All of this is common knowledge to me, as I was a machinist for about 16 years... But I love hearing you talk about this. I really miss the job but alas trucking offered a much larger paycheck. You keep up the good videos and I will keep watching. PS. I love how you use a scribe as a pointer.
The Jacobs taper comes in two flavors. One you can't get apart when you want and the other style you can't get to line up straight and stick together no matter what!
That is so true, I wish I had said that in the video
thank you soooooooooooo much sir, I was collecting info on tool holders and tapers and to be honest internet is a deep hole and videos like these are so helpful
Thanks
Can't hardly wait...! I am totally fascinated with that little precision Cameron drill press.
Coming soon
I've been using tapered arbors for years but never took the time to learn about them. This info was interesting and useful for me. Thanks!
Glad you liked it
very good show and tell on the jacobs taper system. it seem the world of machining is full of tapers. maybe you should keep on going and make a series on tapers. there is much to explain here.
I'm glad you liked it. But from the number of users you can see it's not very popular subject
I have a Delta Drill Press wih a spindle solid with 33JT. and a chuck that goes up to 1/2" the problem I have the chuck keeps coming off. I have cleaned both end the problem still there. is there a way to fix this Ehey don;t sell new spindle for it. and I just bought a new chuck supposdlyJacab probably made in china Hope it will stay in. thank you for the veryinformative video only I wish if you showed more about the chuck with the coller.
Try some Loctite, it might help
I have a terribly bizarre chuck I may need some pointers on. It's some kind of interrupted thread with a lock nut that engages the interruption in such a way it can't rotate. The chuck is some type of automatic spring loaded thing, and I'd really like to get it on some type of usable shank.
Thanks for the measurements on the wedges Sir. Very helpful.
Thanks for the information. I have the exact same no 34 Jacobs chuck and needed an R8 adapter for it. When I searched for an article to determine the size I needed, your video was right there. I find your videos very informative. BTW: I made the spring loaded tap follower that you showed in one of your videos, and I use it often!
Thank you for watching
Funny seeing a Rohm here as well, I got two, a small 1-13mm on my Lurem260 and a 1-16mm on my drill press, I changed out the latter for a keyless one for ease of use.
But the Rohm went all lubricated up in a small plastic bag and then in a nice box for safekeeping :)
👍
Really useful information. I now fully understand the difference between Jacobs and Morse tapers. Thanks.
The tang is not meant for driving, It's for ejecting. On a drill for example the tang is not hardened, if the taper slips, the tang will just twist.
It's amazing how many things Jacobs has been involved with. From famous R755 aircraft engines, to Jake brakes for trucks and...……………...on and on.
Thanks Mr. Pete! Great information. Amazing timing as well, on Wednesday I purchased a little bench-top drill press that has no chuck so I need to measure it to see what size the taper is.
another very useful video from my favorite shop teacher
Thanks
just by luck you showed me exactly what i needed to know , thanks , setting up a jacobs chuck for my wood lathe , and it in two pieces as well,
👍👍
Hi Mr Pete! Happy holidays to you and your family! Your videos are always so informative and helpful. I really appreciate all the effort you put in to teaching us!
Thank you for watching and happy new year
I just took out 2 of them. MT1 to JT3 i had to drill a hole in them and make my own wedge. One is messed up and i need a JT3 reamer for the chuck. Also i have a JT 0 to 5/16" chuck with a MT-0 on it. Cute little thing.
Thank you, I have never seen a Jacobs Reamer
Great job clearing up the differences and examples of Whay l what you might see out there..i subscribed half way through the video bc i needed no more convincing. Good job i like videos like this
Thank you very much and thank you for subscribing
I enjoy all you videos; you make it interesting with your presentation.
I have been waiting for just this type of video Thanks to you I now know I need a JT#33 drill chuck Thanks mrpete! You mentioned a "Threaded collier" on some of the older drill press and that is just what I have- however that part is what also gave me fits because as I turned on the drill press that collier spun up and jammed against the spindle? stopping the drill press cold every time!-I still have to work out how that is supposed to work ?lol BUT it was also the reason I was able to buy the Delta Rockwell floor drill press for $80 because the man said the motor was froze up (its not) Thanks again and as always Two Thumbs Up Sir!!!
I have a nice Jacobs 16n i wanted to change the arbor on, tried all 3 methods. Like mr. Pete said, sometimes they just don't come apart.
Yes sometimes you will never get them apart
Good information brother! ... I thought I knew all about this subject until I got about 1 minute into the video! :)
I have a Jacobs chuck that I bought from ebay that is threaded.. I bought it for a project and it is unused, the only problem is that it has a 1/2" left hand thread .. I had no clue when I bought it .. I guess it was used for some multiple spindle application which uses left hand drill bits.. Mike in Louisiana (Ramsay 1)
I have never seen one with the left-hand thread
I had no clue that they existed with left hand threads which is why I bought it on ebay.. Had I known I would not have bid on it...@@mrpete222
That was very informative. I did not know about Jacobs tapers.
Thanks.
My old Canadian Drill press kept droping out the 2A tapered Chuck. A couple drops of crazy glue stopped that shit.
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Instead of drilling a hole to drive the chuck off(,which is nearly impossible on a drill press),I drilled and tapped the hole so I can use a forcing screw to pull it off
Great idea!
Thanks Mr Pete. Merry Christmas to you, your family and all your followers.
Thank you and merry Christmas to you
Great info. Great video demonstration. Thank you for sharing.
Holy crap the mess of sizes and tapers! Who could come up with something that erratic!? They could have just said "Hey.. 2 degree angle is kinda ok, lets go with that." And the numbering? Why not 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9 ? no no no.. lets mark them 0,1,2,2 again,3,4,5,6 and lastly 33 ! And what about the sizes for each corresponding number??? Where they on drugs?
From smallest to biggest 0, 1, 2 & 2.0, 33, 6, 3, 4, 5... Well. I guess the imperial system is such a mess this fits right in there.
Great video non the less.
You are correct. But, we built the mightiest industrial nation in the world using these tapers.
Nice! I may have to make a new arbor for my new-to-me drill press as the chuck has some wobble to it. Had no idea how to remove the old one. You always seem to be my go to guy for solid advice😁.
Found this very helpful, thanks for the share😊.
Chris
I am very glad I helped
Oddly enough, I was on Little Machine Shop's website looking at tapers yesterday. My step-father bought a Shop Smith about eight months ago and his passion is turning wooden bowls. He uses a Forstner bit to drill a hole in the wood and then uses some sort of expanding holder that holds the wood in the hole when he turns it, but this leaves a fairly big hole in the bottom of the bowl.
Anyway, he wants to set things up differently and really wants a drill chuck for the tailstock and I stumbled across this old Atlas lathe drill chuck, but as far as I can figure it's a #7 Brown & Sharpe taper and he needs a #2 Morse taper. I have been looking for a reducer sleeve, but I've had no luck.
Probably no such thing. For the new Arbor on the Chuck
Time to dig out the machinist manual for the taper specs and make an adapter on the lathe.
Great video.
I was researching how to remove a #33 JT drill chuck and wished to order the correct wedges. Perhaps I am overlooking something obvious, the #33 does not seem to have a wedge set that fits it with a fork I.D. of .605-.675 being necessary. I ordered a set that was listed to fit #6 and #33, but it is too large for the #33. I was able to use a 16mm open end wrench that head enough taper to successfully pop the chuck off.
Any other insights on removing a #33 are greatly appreciated.
Thank you so much for posting this video! Lots of good info here!
we have a 1970's Duracraft or (duracap) served well the chuck is done, I tried everything, took quill out used wedges used heat I do not know if its screw on, tried that . All these years still runs nicely, No marks on table shame to send it, save the motor pulleys all for a worn chuck
I can not remove and I am your age too since 1960 shop class. How about cutting the quill
and bore and thread it for a normal threaded chuck>? My Avey 1900s big guy still rules. Flat belt of course......thoughts Lyle
I want to fit a Jacobs Morse taper to a wet core drill drill. The head of the core drill has a 1.25 inch UNC male thread. Is this possible ? Or must I engineer a bespoke Morse taper sheath having a female 1.25 inch thread on it ? I want water to go inside the Morse taper sheath and then onto the drill chuck & /twist drill to cool the tip to drill steel. thank you for the video.
Are the Jacob chucks the same in the metric world? Thanks for your great videos.
Thanks Mr. Pete. I needed this info.
Do you know of any Jacobs taper to a larger JT?
I have a cheep O drill press that has a spindle with a JT33 I want use a precision chuck with a JT3. Thanks great tips. Thank you for helping a want-to-bee machinist .
I do not think there is such a thing
They sure do hold!! I have had a devil of a time getting some chucks off those arbors.
Yes, you need some of that Kentucky blasting powder
You could always drill through the chuck as Mr. Pete showed and use a press to push the arbor out. No guarantee on what the tapers would look like if you need that kind of force though!
Thank you! i wish I had seen this before I ordered the wrong chuck hhahaha, I will just get another. they arent too expensive.
Excellent teachings skills good sir!
Thanks
Yes, this is quite useful. Thank you and Merry Christmas to all.
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GREAT JOB MR. PETE !!!
Thank you for the little tutorial, it'll prove very valuable in the future.
Thanks
Tried to get on measuring, 3.148 degrees, doesn't make since, having to use the compound at 180 flat so I travel .1 as opposed to the 2 on the dial. Indicator skills must not be up to par. Or it's just aftermarket. ANY thoughts Mr Pete?
18:21 "when I nod my head, you hit it"... :) Wasn't that a Three Stooges joke? (Wise philosophers, they were!) Love and best wishes for a happy festive season to you and yours from me and mine (from Down Under), Mr Pete.
awesome information ! thankyou ! saved me lots of hassle did this video !!
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I don't know why use tapping to connect the shaft and chuck. I am afraid of some day the chuck will fly out to hit someone if the rpm is very large. It's a dangerous way to install the chuck.
A timely video on the tapers as the year is also tapering off.. Merry Christmas Professor (Jan is in our prayers)
I have had my chuck fall off my Delta drill press when applying sideways pressure when using a sanding drum.
Yes
This is timely, I don't know how it happened but my jacobs chuck came off its morse taper arbor recently and I noticed this smaller taper and was wondering about it. It went back together and is working fine.
Great video,good information
Sir I wish I could talk to you direct , I got a Chicago DP 515 drill press that works good but when it starts to cut material the bit moves to one side a little bit , and I'm new to a drill press , I do know it says JT - 2 1/2 made in 1977
And has a nut above the chuck
Did you center her punch your hole?
Did you center punch the hole?
I checked yesterday when the chuck is all the way down there's side movement with in the shaft
And there is a nut above the chuck what would that be for ? Looking for owner manual/ parts book
That was really informative. Thanks, Pete
Mr pete , im not able to find a JT # 2 1/2 chuck for my Chicago DP 515
The shaft goes from pulley to the chuck ,
With a nut just above the chuck , i was wondering is it possible to change the setup to include the MT setup ?
I was taught the tang is NOT there for power transfer but only for extracting the tool from the holder. All power gets transferred through the taper itself.
Wrong, the tank and keep it from slipping
For those that may want to know, the #6 J.T. wedge slot width is in the area of 0.720" wide.
Thanks
Concerning the folding wedges, I doubt a tremendous amount of hammering would be necessary even an old, seized arbor; the force exerted by folding wedges is unbelievably powerful and is a technique that has been used variously for thousands of years.
You only left out one subject or i missed it which is how many tapered shanks does a man need ?
What angle(s) is the jacobs tapper?
Hi Mr Pete....thank you very much for the video. Is very helpfull. Which wedge fit right in a JT 33? (0.624 inches). Because N°2 wedge it wouldn´t fit...and the N°3 is way to big. Thanks in advance.
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Is the chuck inner taper and the shaft outter taper the identical pitch?
Very informative video Mr. Pete. Thank you. My problem, aside from being a cheapskate, is that I have the drill stem removed from an old Jet Model 13R drill press. It is a JT6 at the business end but is a long 4 splined shaft on the other. My problem is it looks like that spun shaft you have there and the previous owner tightened it up by center punching the taper in several places. It is about .6663 on the big end and .615 on the small end. I'm guessing this drill press has to be at least 60 years old. The Jacobs chuck that was on it has seen better days. I was wondering if you thought it would be feasible to turn it down to a JT33 as I have one of those new in the box. The drill press is built like a tank. I have a new Jet drill press that pales in comparison to it. Any advice would be greatly appreciated
Try turning sample taper on the latheto see if it will fit. If it is not extremely accurate, I will not hold.
@222 I made a couple practice cuts until I got the angle of the taper right and worked up the courage to attempt turning the JT33 taper on the spindle. I am very happy with the results. Thank you for your insight.
Jacob chucks with the collar are listed as Jacobs 33C.
Kits are available for about half the price of a new chuck.
www.jacobschuck.com/drill-chuck-removal-guide
All the common tapers (Morse, Jacobs, Jarno, B&S, NMTB/INT, R8) in the world are all American in origin. This probably reflects the global dominance of American machine tools from about 1890 onwards. There's nothing particularly clever or special about these taper geometries - only that they are standard. Thank goodness we have standard tapers - my Britannia No.13 lathe (about 1895) uses a perfectly adequate spindle and tailstock taper except that it's proprietary and completely non-standard - meaning that you have to try to make your own arbors and centres or convert this antique machine to a conventional taper. Britannia adopted Morse tapers from about 1900 onwards. Wish they'd done it sooner.
That is very interesting
Interesting tapers talk mrpete there are too many to keep tack of we find ourselves in current use of 3 types of Morse style and there are only two of us here in the shop. Too many arbors we think even your catalog shows that. Great end-mill share people need to understand to a greater degree side pressures and tensions in milling work we hope you helped them here about that. Yes the chuck is really ugly #6 fit? needs a rework turn that baby into a show boat.
Thanks so many ch for the measurements! Looking forward to the next video.
Thanks
I need a Morse taper 2 and a Jacobs chuck taper 2. So is that a Morse taper 2 arbor for tailstock
Be careful sir it could also be a B taper which is the DIN standard (more common in Europe). More normal sizes are B12 (similar to JT1) B16 (JT33) and B18 (JT3). If im not mistaken the number in the B relates to the large end diameter in milimeters rounded to the nearest mm
Look here
www.tools-n-gizmos.com/specs/Tapers.html#B-Taper
I was wondering whether or not they used the Jacobs taper overseas.
@@fasousa4798 thanks👍🏻
Thanks for sharing, great video...!, would be great if you had a morse cone holder, morse cap, I mean the part where the morse cone comes in video.
Yes
Never new about the Jacobs taper thankyou
I didn’t know you used two wedges when removing the chuck arbor shank. No wonder one wedge never worked for me. What else don’t I know I now wonder?
Yes
Very Good mr. Peter
Nice video!! Merry Christmas Mr Pete
taper honing with grinding paste and the 3-plate (3taper) method gives you the Mystery Taper! :)
Hello again.
I am so confused ,I bought an old Jacobs star drill press, not the floor one but the one that goes on a bench, it has stamped on the Jacobs taper no 3 shank 6 made in England
Im not sure what the numbers mean, there seams to be no taper thickness related to its number,
Then some one told me I need a 33 then I was told a number 3,what is the 3 and the 6 related to,?
I cannot help you. Go to the Jacobs chuck Website. In their catalog I believe there’s a little chart telling you everything you need to know about the sizers and diameters. Also this may be in machineries handbook
I need some help. I have been trying to determine the taper of my Jacobs chuck so I can get a #2 Morse taper to JT Morse taper. My problem is the info on my chuck says it is a No. 32. According to the chart you showed (with the measurement I took ) it is a #2 short. I can’t find that description in any tool catalog I have. Any suggestions?
My drill press is this way. It's a 3 I think. I've never heard the things your explaining. I know it just works.
Lol. Thanks.