Excellent method, thank you for sharing. Every other method I have watched involves a dead center with some parallel. My dead center is like the one you have used.👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
You made me laugh, you're right, this hobby is a 'money pit'!🤣😂🤣Your vlog was really informative, two really cool techniques to add to my bag of tricks - thanks 👍👍
I'll leave the approach to checking concentricity of the part in the setup to the FOG Toolmakers. Perhaps putting a job on centers is accurate enough to just assume proper concentricity for copying the taper; perhaps not. Not sure what the tolerances for class of fit allow there. He lost me at using the toolholder to align the compound rest to the taper vs eyeballing it and simply throwing in the dial indicator followed by test indicator. My understanding is that when cutting tapers and tooling, tenths matter. I could be wrong there though; once again depending on class of fit required. Also, the Dial Indicator probably already has its tool height centered on the center line of the job. It's just not mentioned. Try to indicate in a compound rest for a taper without the Dial indicator on the center line and you wont be getting true readings for the copy. This will likely result in a bad setup and nasty surprise when the inspector comes around.
I tried this method by using a drill chuck shank with a #2 Morse taper and Jacobs taper for the drill chuck. This shank was new and had a good centre hole on each end. Thus the OD's must be concentric to these centre holes right??? No way! Each taper was NOT concentric to the centre hole's axis, the run-out was more than .006". So much for that idea. The best I could come up with was to put a #1 Morse taper dead centre into a #1 to #2 Morse taper adapter which had a centre hole in the closed end. Still not perfect and I had to do some tweaking to get the machined taper right. As a consequence I now avoid machining Morse or other machine tool tapers as these require too much fiddling to get right. I'd just as soon buy the correct taper and adapt it if necessary.
Glaringly obvious method, so obvious I missed it. I've been setting up off old machine reamers as I had access to some. This is better. The issue though is usually that one wants a longer taper than the top slide will permit, and doing it in stages however hard one tries usually leaves a slight telltale in the surface finish. Have to give this a go.
try using a taper attachment for those tapers that are longer than the travel on your compound rest. That's the "go to" that I hear about when talking about cutting longer tapers.
That when you need a taper turning attachment l had them on Colchester 2000 and on a mascot makes like so much easier. All morse tapers on drills and sleeves are same angle so for me set of slips , dial gauge clock it parallel and your angle is spot on
So what happens when toolholder isn’t parallel too slide It won’t be same angle . Surely it’s easier too just set tooslide to correct taper. If the dial isn’t dead on centre line the angle will be wrong. Glad l had toolmakers too teach me. OMG
Fascinating to see that you watched the video long enough to spew so many useless, insulting comments. You could have just walked away, but no, you had to be a dick about it, didn't you? There are too many morons in this world.
Excellent method, thank you for sharing. Every other method I have watched involves a dead center with some parallel. My dead center is like the one you have used.👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
You made me laugh, you're right, this hobby is a 'money pit'!🤣😂🤣Your vlog was really informative, two really cool techniques to add to my bag of tricks - thanks 👍👍
U pravu si meni je sve ovo novo, nadosao sam na taj trik prije tvog videa kako god hvala za subscrib, zivio sokole
Nice, very informative!
Thank you. I need to make morse tapers and didn't know how.
I'll leave the approach to checking concentricity of the part in the setup to the FOG Toolmakers. Perhaps putting a job on centers is accurate enough to just assume proper concentricity for copying the taper; perhaps not. Not sure what the tolerances for class of fit allow there. He lost me at using the toolholder to align the compound rest to the taper vs eyeballing it and simply throwing in the dial indicator followed by test indicator. My understanding is that when cutting tapers and tooling, tenths matter. I could be wrong there though; once again depending on class of fit required. Also, the Dial Indicator probably already has its tool height centered on the center line of the job. It's just not mentioned. Try to indicate in a compound rest for a taper without the Dial indicator on the center line and you wont be getting true readings for the copy. This will likely result in a bad setup and nasty surprise when the inspector comes around.
I tried this method by using a drill chuck shank with a #2 Morse taper and Jacobs taper for the drill chuck. This shank was new and had a good centre hole on each end. Thus the OD's must be concentric to these centre holes right???
No way! Each taper was NOT concentric to the centre hole's axis, the run-out was more than .006". So much for that idea.
The best I could come up with was to put a #1 Morse taper dead centre into a #1 to #2 Morse taper adapter which had a centre hole in the closed end. Still not perfect and I had to do some tweaking to get the machined taper right.
As a consequence I now avoid machining Morse or other machine tool tapers as these require too much fiddling to get right. I'd just as soon buy the correct taper and adapt it if necessary.
You are right, you must indicate on concentricity, and indicator stylus must be on center line. Mine came out okay.
Good job
Eccellente
*_Paperz! Paperz! Where Ahr yoor Paperz!!!!!_*
I would like to say that you didn’t ensure the tailstock is on center
before you started indicating.
oh yes i did. ;) just didn't put it in a video, maybe i will make next video how i center the tailstock....
Let’s hope the tailstock is central eh
Glaringly obvious method, so obvious I missed it. I've been setting up off old machine reamers as I had access to some. This is better. The issue though is usually that one wants a longer taper than the top slide will permit, and doing it in stages however hard one tries usually leaves a slight telltale in the surface finish. Have to give this a go.
try using a taper attachment for those tapers that are longer than the travel on your compound rest. That's the "go to" that I hear about when talking about cutting longer tapers.
That when you need a taper turning attachment l had them on Colchester 2000 and on a mascot makes like so much easier.
All morse tapers on drills and sleeves are same angle so for me set of slips , dial gauge clock it parallel and your angle is spot on
So what happens when toolholder isn’t parallel too slide
It won’t be same angle . Surely it’s easier too just set tooslide to correct taper. If the dial isn’t dead on centre line the angle will be wrong. Glad l had toolmakers too teach me. OMG
That a long winded way of putting it into a Chuck 3 jaw would be easier
Easier to set topslide up with sign bar can’t be wrong
Sorry that is not the correct or best way too do it at all
What a long winded inaccurate way of doing it it hurts too watch and listen too
Fascinating to see that you watched the video long enough to spew so many useless, insulting comments. You could have just walked away, but no, you had to be a dick about it, didn't you? There are too many morons in this world.