1990 Ford 460 7.5 EFI hesitation / idle problem solution
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- This is a follow up video from a previous video I made on what to do when your 7.5 EFI has an intermittent hesitation and idle issue. After changing FP reg, filter, fuel pump, cleaning fuel rail, fuel pump relay, PCM..I finally thought to try the mapp sensor. BAM! Fixed the problem! Hallelujah!
What kept throwing me off was the fact that when the problem would occur, If I threw the tank switch, it would immediately temporarily fix the problem. I'm thinking now that because of a voltage jump when switching, it would snap out of it..then occur again later. Anyways, its fixed. All is good
I spent over 1k in my truck put it in 2 shops nobody could fix it so they sent it back home to me it still had a terrible miss and was running extremely rich blowing smoke.....after watching this video I went and looked at my map sensor and the rubber vacume hose was burned into so i put a new hose on it and omg it fixed it man thank you so much you don't understand how thankful i am
well done.
I am here attempting to diagnos my vehicle as well Ford E350 w a 460 engine
Your story is why I just do it myself. No one does it better :) 87 e-350 460 minibus here
@@FacesintheStone .. how's your minibus going today. I own the same but a small motorhome.
That is such great news! Thanks for the reply. At the end of the day, most shops just hire anyone who will show up. It doesn't mean that they have a great knowledge about what they're doing. Always best to try and fix things yourself.
I read a few comments and no one ever said what the MAP does so here we go, this sensor reads the MAP (Manifold ambient Pressure) or vacuum it adjust based on the vehicles outside altitude and adjust the computer settings for the air intake fuel ratio and keeps them balanced so the engine does not run rich or lean. Hope this helps.
yeah.....more air crossing it is TB volume.....
I am only seeing this video and comment today. Sorry I’m late to this party. Not trying to troll your comment, only correctly inform.
MAP = Manifold Absolute Pressure.
When this same sensor is used as a BARO sensor, it is registering to the ECM the ambient barometric pressure. When used as a MAP sensor, it will only register the pressure in the intake manifold relative to the pressure (or lack there of) behind the throttle blade(s).
OMG! so THATS why it always seems to start hesitating after a few hills!
Thanks man!
Thanks Brig T!
I have/had a an issue where I chug up hills and stall out.
I have/had issues when I come off the highway to stop and go traffic and also stall out as if It's run out of fuel.
My 460 is in a motorhome and I had also changed out the ICM (ignition control module) this helped but didn't fix the stalling issue.
I replaced the Ignition Relay, MAP Sensor and Fuel Pressure Regulator as you did.
Hallelujah! I think this solved my stalling out issue
OK so I had all of the same problems you talked about in both your videos identical situation!
I replaced the fuel tank, in tank fuel pump, in tank fuel filter, Frame rail fuel filter, throttle positioning sensor, Map sensor, Full tuneup spark plugs wires air filter cap and rotor!!! And still same problem didn’t solve anything the truck with idol perfect but is soon as you give it gas it dies!
Just so everyone knows it ended up being the catalytic converter I drilled two holes a half inch diameter before the cat and the truck runs just fine now no problems.
mike markisich man I’m about to do this an I’ve done a good majority of what u have too so I’m gonna cut open the cat and delete the smog pump
Wanted to say Thank you for taking time for a video. I drive a 90 with 460 and you have given me great ideas on what I need to do to take care of problems on my truck.
Brig T. Thanks a million. This seems to habe solved my problems for now. I really appreciate you taking the time to make this video
So my 1989 f250 460 had all the same symptoms you were describing. My check engine light was also on, I replaced the map sensor the light went out and it running great now. Thanks a lot for the video this problem was driving me nuts.
My 1990 F250 5.0 has had surging idle and has bugged me. The interwebs have told me its most likely the MAP sensor and will be replacing soon in hopes to resolving the issue. Great clear video, thank you!
This is prolly the third time i watched this video in 2/3 yrs the first two times i was trying to see if we had the same problem …at that time we didn’t …now my 90 f250 is having the same issue!! ….Thanks!!
I worked on my 1987 f150 efi 4x4 for a whole year.. finally figured out! it was the KNOCK SENSOR....
Now it drives perfect....
By golly I watched this video and replaced my MAP sensor. Truck runs much better now!!! Thank You Thank You!!!
I’ve already done that. I have not tried the fuel Regulator. It’s a big job on a 4.9 in-line six. This truck runs like brand new when you first started and after a mile or so it has a slight hesitation. I’m thinking of changing the knock sensor Beings that I’ve already bought one. I’m not gonna give up on this old truck it’s a sweet ride.Nice job on the video.
What year F150? The 87-91 trucks have multiple fuel pumps and a dying in tank can be hard to diagnose since the on line high pressure pump will try and compensate. If its a later 92-96 truck, the regulators aren't too bad. Get a ball end allen wrench. I can do one in about 10 minutes and some hand skin removed.
@@travislivengood2744 87-88 have in tank and high pressure frame mounted pumps,89-96 have only in tank high pressure fuel pumps .
@@randallcarney1216 which is why I differentiated the two systems.
I like both your videos both of them made sense and they were logical put it on a fuel pressure check to determine whether it was a regulator or not about the map sensor is tied into the fuel system if it is glitching out it can actually momentarily shut down the fuel pump momentarily because it's linked through that through the processor
I had the same problem abd just couldn't figure it out I was looking for videos finally I found your video and I fix my truck thank you so much..
Hey, I have a 1997 Ford F-350 7.5l and I could not figure out why my idle was so bad, low, and studdered out. This video fixed my problem, damn MAP sensor. Thanks man.
Cool. Thanks for the feedback!
In case someone else is trying to fix their truck, I tried the TPS, it was a pain, the two Phillips screws held with Loctite were evil. I ended up buying Allen head screws from the hardware store, that didn't fix it but the mapp sensor did! My truck stalled a lot and needed to be power braked to keep it running. funny is how this started after sitting for a few days, before that it ran fine. I also bought a fuel pressure regulator as my next fix. Shop around the price of a mapp sensor varies a lot. one place wanted eighty more dollars than I paid.
It tells the computer how much pressure is in the manifold which affects spark timing and fuel delivery, am i the only one who thought that was a carton of cigs at first
Ren J Lol Marlboro Red
Same
I thought the same, I was like damn.. this dude's got no fucks anymore... That's how tired he is of working on his damn truck 🤣.
I thought the same thing, but he's a good Mormon from Utah so it couldn't be.
MAP sensor stands for Manifold Absolute Pressure; in California Mass Flow Sensor (Different location)
I’m having the EXACT same problem on my 94 Ford F-250 460. I will look into this tomorrow. Glad to have found this video! Thanks !!
did it fix the problem when U changed it????
????
Hi Brig, What a breath of fresh air. I've just ran across your two RUclips videos relating to the fuel or lack of fuel problem on your 1990 F350. I bet I have watched 100 RUclips videos trying to figure out why our 1988 F150 Lariat coughs and struggles to run whenever I switch to the front tank. The Ford dealer had the truck twice (cost over $2000.00, and could not fix it) then we took it to a private mechanic, he put in a new fuel pump and filter in the front tank, next visit he put in a fuel selector valve, and still our truck will not run very far on the front tank. I'm going to try your map sensor solution. Mahalo, Mahalo, Aloha, Del Iglinsky
The fuel return goes to whatever tank is NOT in use. Running the front will return to the rear & vise versa. I think the design idea is to "never really be completely out of fuel. There is a check valve in each fuel pump that accomplishes this. In other words, when you flip the switch, not only are you activating said fuel pump, you are activating its return shutoff. Having said that, if you run good on one tank & crappy on the other, chances are good that the shutoff for the unused tank is stuck closed. This creates excessive fuel pressure. Or, a "flooding" condition. Although, it's best to change both pumps, or more appropriately, sender units, you can change the one that the truck runs good on to remedy this.
Great video my friend, thank you very much, cheers from Acapulco Mexico.
Thanks mine e150 has the same problem i will try the fuel pressure first ....because i already changed iac , maf and the fuel pump...
My 5.0 f-150 always had the hesitation, just got to a point where it doesn’t want to run at all with out excessive fuel. Going to check that out tomorrow
Showing Results Recommended For Your
1994 Ford F53
Your manifold absolute pressure, or MAP sensor, measures the pressure in the intake manifold for the engine control unit to adjust fuel flow and engine timing. This constant adjustment helps to keep your engine running smoothly. A failing MAP sensor can cause engine hesitation, rough idle, or black smoke from the tail pipe. It can also cause poor gas mileage and random knocking or pinging sounds. If you are experiencing any of these issues or have failed an emissions inspection, then the MAP sensor may need to be replaced. O'Reilly Auto Parts carries replacement MAP sensors for most vehicles. Rick
dealing with this now. THANK YOU FOR THIS VIDEO ❤️
if you have changed many things and it did not fix, try the PSOM / speedo in the instrument panel it is connected to the speed sensor(vss) this is what fixed my problem.
just had that happen this morning..so I put my code reader on it and I pulled codes 22 map sensor and 98 transmission circuit stuck open..put a new map in it and it fix the problem with both
ALEXANDER OFFROAD Korey Alexander Did you buy an code reader or did you use jumper wire?
I'm no expert by any means but from what I currently understand about the map sensor (manifold absolute pressure) is only found on speed density engines and it measures how much air is going into the engine to adjust the air fuel ratio
Very succinct and encouraging videos, this and the one about the pressure regulator. Just picked up a 90 F350 crew cab with the 7.5 and dual tank config that was exhibiting the same symptoms described in the original video. It would run sort of ok for about a mile, and then the performance would drop off. Switch tanks, and it would perk back up.
After seriously ticking off a local mechanic because I "found some cockamamie idea on the internet", I directed him to change the pressure regulator and the MAPP sensor. It did not help, at all. If anything, it made the problem worse. The positive aspect being that APP Sensor and fuel pressure regulator are no longer on the suspect list. He did tell me that while doing pressure tests of the system, he noted that the feed pressures, which would rise to approx 45 (upper end of expected) when the pump switch was made, would rapidly fade below 20, which he had no explanation for, but does indicate another issue.
So, the bass rodeo in the middle of a snipe hunt continues.
Did you fix it?
@@stitchthisditchthat259 nope. much deeper elestrical gremlins involved. Traded it to an eager young fellow for a nice new fence in the backyard.
If it has that problem again, check your knock sensor. I had that same problem and it was my nox sensor. I changed everything out just like you did and it was my knock sensor all that time.
Why didn't you pull codes first?
Changed my MAPS sensor but still having issues. It idles weak. Once warmed up it’ll stall out when I put it in reverse. After about 3 start ups it’s good. No issues while on the road. Just in park and when I’m reverse
I wish you started the video of what your truck was doing and sounds to see if your truck makes same problems as mine.
1995 F-350 7.5l EFI . It's sat for a long time and on start up, does "okay" but not real wonderful. Jumped the RPM up to about 1500-2000 and watching the engine it looks as though it wants to jump free of the engine area. add another thousand or so to the RPM ( 3K or so) and it smooth's out some. Compression check revealed, all 8 cylinders are within spec( 150-160 on all 8 ) . I've done the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, new fuel filter . No smoke at all on start up . However, when you rev it up to 3K and let it drop , it'll back fire from the exhaust side. My gut tells me this is related to the distributor but I'm not so sure . There is no module on the side of the distributor so that's out of the loop of trouble shooting / parts to be replaced. I'm inclined to think it might be something much deeper than this. I've not yet pulled the ECM apart to take a look at the innards to see if the capacitors are burnt or not.
any suggestions?
Not sure what to tell you an those issues. I'd check the ecm
Brig T I'm leaning towards either tearing the back off of the ECM or, grounding the whole truck and pull the engine down from the top to the bottom. something tells me that it's not a simple quick and easy fix. I did take note, that on start up, cold, the engine oil pressure idiot stick gauge( for what it's worth) was in the middle when, in my own mind of minds, tells me on cold start ups, the oil pressure should be way high. As in 65 psi or better( needle all the way to the right-max'ed out). So I'm inclined to think it would have to do with the oil pressure ( bearings , crank , cam) and maybe one or more broken springs on the valves. The really odd thing is, there's no smoke on start up. None.
I appreciate and deeply do thank you for your timely reply.
Fixed my 1990 f150. Was the last thing I replaced.but at least I shouldn't have to fix anything for awhile.
Picked up a 90 (thought it was a 94) service truck F350 and it's been a little chuggy. Ill check it out. Thanks!
I'm having the exact same problem. Already tripped on your regulator video and replaced it - did not help. I will now try MAP sensor.
My 89 f350 with the 460 has problems idling and spits and sputters on take off and low rpms. Just replaced the map sensor. No change. Have a FP reg. and a fuel filter on order that i'll try. If thats not it I guess i'll try the more labor intensive fixes like replacing the fuel pump or rebuilding the throttle body....
When I got off work today I took off my throttle body and IAC valve. Spayed the bajesus out of them with carb cleaner and scrubbed with a toothbrush until they looked new. Then took a can of the SeaFoam top engine cleaner and lube stuff and sprayed it in the throttle body while keeping on the gas a bit. Once the can was emptied i turned the truck off and let it sit for a few minutes. After that I started it back up. It smoked like a freight train for the first few minutes. I honestly thought I had ruined my truck lol but after all the smoke cleared and the exhaust fumes ran clear I noticed my truck was running perfect. No rough idle, no dying, no hesitation or sputtering on takeoff. Plus loads more pep and power. if anyone is having similar trouble to mine i highly recommend cleaning the throttle body and iac valve and then using the SeaFoam spray stuff. worked like a dream!
I just fixed mine having same problem, try changing your sensor on the rear differential
@@concretejungle77 which sensor is that?
@@felipefonseca5753 I think its called a speed sensor it sits on top of the rear diff
but that only fixed it for a few days I'm back to stalling at stop lights
Well you just fixed my problem thanks for the video
Switched it and it helped quite a bit!
I have a 1990 Ford F-250 351 Windsor and my truck stalls when I’m at red lights. Going to change the map sensor hopefully that works.
Do you recall where the vacuum lines run to from the map sensor?
easiest thing to do is get a haynes shop manual and a multimeter. when ever my 1988 f250 5.8L acts up i check all my sensors. if it isnt that then i check my fuel system then finally the ignition system one other thing also do the 3g 130amp alternator upgradeand make the wire harness and move the ignition controll moduel from the distributor to a fender , ever sence i did those 2 upgrades , my sensors have lasted longer and now i have all the power i need to keep the thing running
Hey Brig, you said something about black smoke exhaust and oil coming out, my 69 Lincoln Mark III just started doing this, can you help no map sensor
What is the main reason when 7.5l Engine has an intermittent hesitation? When I start the engine all ok but when I start moving forward the intermittent raised up.
Moreover, I had changed the 1-map sensor 2-Throttle sensor 3-Oxygen sensor 4-airspeed control 5- fuel pressure regulator but still not fixed the problem.
Have you tried replacing the ICM ignition control module? It may help.
$140 CDN
Thank you, mine is doing the same thing. 95 f250 with 460
I can't believe it my 86 ford had the same exact symptoms! Sold it for scrap after months of not being able to find the problem
Thanks for the video!
I freaking love you. I have the exact same issue
Awesome video helped me out alot.
Thanks for the nice feedback
hey man I found the issue on my 96 F-Superduty with 7.5 it was the sensor on the top of the rear differential
Did your speedometer work?
@@mattv8998 no it ended up being the PSOM circuit board behind the speedometer, the diodes were bad and was not receiving the signal from the vss(speed) sensor on top of rear differential, I pulled the unit out shipped it to module mechanics and they fixed it for like $100 bucks plus shipping fixed the whole problem of stalling at lights and speedo dial jumping.
where does the vacum line go from the map sensor?
I'm having an issue with the same truck 1993 where it hesitates going faster than 55 mph or under load climbing very small hills. It seems like its choking. I'm looking at servicing the fuel injection nozzles, but thought I'd keep researching and found your video. Let me know if you have any pointers. Thanks for sharing.
Great video
Fyi MAP sensor stands for Manifold Absolute Pressure
I have a 1989 Ford F250 XLT Lariat with the 460 in it. I recently pulled a code 85 Canister Purge Solenoid Circuit failure. By chance, could you tell me where the Purge Solenoid valve is located on these 460 motors? I can't seem to locate it. Thank You and great video!
Not sure if you figured it out by now. On my 351w there is vacuum line by throttle body to purge then into charcoal canister
I have a 1988 f-250 EFI;;; in the mornings it will idle just fine till I put it in reverse or drive and then I have to gun it to keep it from stalling. I have tried replacing temperature sensor (2 wire not the single wire one for the dash gauge)
THANKS! THAT WAS MY ISSUE, YOU SOLVED IT.
So glad to here that. You made my day man!
(sorry for the slow response)
Wow thank you, same problem and sure enough the map sensor fixed it. I was just about to change my front fuel pump im glad I tried this first
Do you recommend going with all ford parts? My 1994 F350 4x4 dually is doing the same thing. I replaced the MAP sensor and pressure regulator with Oreilly parts and ran good for 400 miles and started again.
Yes, if it were me, I'd go with all oem parts. In the end I believe doing research and throwing parts are better than putting your trust in most shops.
Thanks, that did it. 95 F350 460
Can you tell me where the vacuum line connects to??
thanks you I have the same problem
Thanks Hope that works on my Bronco
Any luck with your bronco. Mine idles rough sometimes and feels like it is starving for gas when i try to take off
OTC 3211 OBD1 & OBD2 code reader when you spend your money you can read both systems.
I have a 1988 Ford with 460 engine when engine heats up it cranks slow after engine cools back down it cranks fine and ideal why
Starter worn or timing
Big T ty for your videos. I have a 92 F250 7.5 ltr 460 4x4 with idol issues. I changed the map sensor and idle air control valve and it still runs real rough what else did you suggest?
Great Video thanks for the solution!
would this same solution apply to a 96'? i have the same motor, 460 7.5 EFI and my truck does exactly what you describe!
88-97 are essentially the same EFI systems.
So my truck idles perfectly fine but whenever i shift to drive and take off its a 50/50 chance it takes off with any power and if i gas it too much it stalls but when that happens i can shift to neutral and turn motor off then restart it and problem goes away for a few minutes. Would the fuel pressure regulator solve this problem?
Can't tell nobody nothing......they have to experience it for them self!
A friend HAD a 90 Model f350 and would not start, got it to start, and would die, I TRIED SHARING WITH HIM, but no hope, what does a Man know, who has been Mechanic for 50 years, and grown up with a Ford Family, worked for Ford Dealerships.....
He dumps all these NEW PARTS, and i hear through Talk, he is selling, i send a Man with 800 Bucks Cash, he buys the Truck and has it Towed to a Place, we put a MAP sensor, not just any MAP sensor, the right one, Tested Perfect.....HE IS STILL DRIVING THE TRUCK, AND HAS NOT DONE ONE THING TO IT, GOING ON 4 YEARS!
Oh....That friend is talking shit about me, all because of his Ego, this is exactly what is wrong with America, stop watching Fake News!
AND GO FIX SOMETHING!!!
Thanks for your Video, and even more.....YOUR HUMBLE HONESTY!
Do i have a map sensor on my ford 1990 350/460 engine everthang has been changed feul pump filter (regulator please help it was gettin feul now ir wont even start
Thank you so much for sharing what you find and how to fix it. I have a 1993 F250 with the 460. My problem is that after a week or two of sitting. When I go to start it, it cranks without starting. If I give it a shot of starting fluid, it fires right up and runs great. Any ideas would help, Thankx.
Same problem here. Anyone?
Thanks because i was going though the same thing
Fuel filter, air filter, weak coil, why the computer stores codes.. run the codes... guessing what it is, costs unnecessary bucks
Will that throw a check engine light? the similar thing happened to my E350 and it wouldn't go above 15 miles an hour felt like it was starving.
Mines do it at a Red light could this be my issue? I change the fuel pressure regulator
Thank you huge help
I have a 89 same thing going on with mine.
Mass air pressure sensor
Thanks, cool to know.
I have done everything Except for the fuel pump regulator. Hope that will do it. On the 4.9 It’s a little difficult.
Have you checked vacuum leak? Mine was hole in boot behind the intake manifold from plastic tube that connects to the Map sensor. Had smoke from engine and erratic idle and what was perceived to be engine tapping with intermittent check and ABS engine lights. Replaced rubber elbow boot and no more smoke, lights or idle and shut of issues and engine purrs like a kitten. Just my experience on what my issue was.
Thanks for that info sir
Love your video
Thank you, I have enjoyed your videos about your truck. I ran into an issue with my 1990 Ford F-250 (460). Starts up just fine. Then when I go to put it into gear, it stalls/dies. I started the engine again and let the car warm up for a long time (it's below freezing right now) and I was able to keep it alive when I put it into gear by giving it some gas right away. Letting the engine warm seemed to help. Any ideas Brig T?
Catyltic converter. Drill a half inch hole before the cat and after the cat. If truck runs better cut it off and replace with a straight pipe. These engines need to breathe
@@JamesSmith-lt5zz Thanks. Turned out to be super low transmission oil from a slow drip. Ended up putting in like 4 quarts or something ridiculous and the problem went away.
Ok I'm having problem with my 460 in my 78... but forget about it being a 78 the motor is a 95 and efi at idol it's good you roll and the throttle it's fine but you floor from a start it stalls or or lugs real bad
bobhilly546312156332 I have a 1995 460 I’m idling at 1000 rpm can you please tell me what you’re idling at.? Tia.
Hey i just bought a 1989 ford f350 with the 460 motor is there any way you could send me pictures of then engine bay bc i have loose vacuum hoses and don't know where they go
No, sorry. Truck is now sold
Hello Brig T. Question for ya. was your check engine light on while you were having this problem? I thought about changing mine but didn't know due to the check light coming on when i unplugged it while it was running. Mines a 1988 e 350 460 ford with the exact same problem you described and the HUGE FRUSTRATION over the last 2 years of replacing everything I could think of. Dreams at night "Nightmares" of it being a little electrical short or a little wire with a bad ground :-) Its like a bad slot machine... I swear the next thing or pull i make is gonna be it but NOPE
replace the map sensor while the engine is off. it will not make the light come on.
My CEL never came on. when I pulled the codes, it didn't help much. With these older fords, you pretty much need to throw parts at it until you fix the problem. Good luck man
O.K. Thanks again for the help!
i have 1989 f350 7.5 litre (460)
i had all sorts of the same problems... changed all kinds of parts...
turned out to be a vacuum leak.
it was a frayed elbow that goes on the MAP SENSOR.
i recommend looking for vacuum leaks. hope this helps.
I went from a smooth High idle to an Idle I can deal with. But, it's got a miss now. I assume vacuum. Wasn't there before. It sticks too when I give a touch with finger on throttle it comes up some.. Is the whole piece it's connected to bad or what.. I'm just not sure. I know it need the censor.
Hey Brig, I have a 1994 Ford F-350 XLT 7.5l. I had the same problem with it acting like it was running out of fuel. As soon as i got it home and cut it off, it would not crank back up. I saw your video about the fuel pressure regulator. I replaced it first because i just don't believe that both fuel pumps would go out at the same time. After replacing the regulator i cranked the truck right up ran smooth as silk, for five minutes. As soon as it warmed up it started running ruff again. I pulled the filter and dumped it out. There was no trash in it. Put it back on and cranked the truck again a couple hours later. Once again ran smooth as silk for five minutes and started running ruff again. I'm at my wits end trying to figure out whats wrong here. Did yours run smooth until it warmed up.
No it didn't. It would start doing that hesitation thing pretty much right off the bat. I even took it to the dealer and the head mechanic drive it for 3 days and he couldn't figure it out. But he gave me the new map sensor & told me to try it....that was it.
Yours sounds like a fuel delivery / pressure problem to me. Try a fp.
Part of the speed density system is it measuring your coolant temp. Maybe something is out of wack with that?
I’ve done the map sensor, ignition module, router cap all the samethings happening before and after so idk what’s goin on
Whole entire distributor
It tells your ford where the nearest dealership is ......
I'm a ford owner love my 7.3
No replacement for displacement
Holy Moses.....computer ?? I'm having trouble with a 1989 f 250 7.5 this thing is just plugged up.......minor mods ands stock......+ 26 HP......
Hey man how many miles does your truck go with one thank?
I have a 1995 RV tioga Ford E350 w a 460 engine that has similiar issues only mine are persisting whilst driving.
It has died when I stopped as well but alwasy starts right back up. In idle mode it seems as if the engine is "missing/ stuttering"
Any advice other than what you are giving here?
Thanks and much appreciated
Did you ever fix the issue ? I have a 1995 Ford RV as well with a 7.5 with the same problems, I’m always looking for people with the same setups to talk with
@@ChristianRaymondFilms I gave up on it. Too much money.
Hey pal. What about Cam Position Sensor? I've replaced my MAP and Fuel regulator with motorcraft parts.
Ford called at the PIP sensor its in the distributor. Easier to just replace the whole thing
Thanks. I’ve been having this issue in an E350. Gives me an idea where to start.
I got a 87 f350 with the 351 windsor motor carburated with an electronic fuel pump i was wondering if it can be the same issue as this any help would be apreciated
Kevin Martinez
Not sure what it could be with a carburated engine. I'd start with rebuilding /cleaning the carb, replace fuel filters
If it's a 2 barrel motorcraft carb, rebuild the carb, making sure to put a new power valve in it. When you rebuild the carb, drop the float .25 inch below spec and tune with a vacuum gauge. You'll find it starts easier, runs cooler and cleaner, delivers more power and better fuel mileage. After tuning the carb, tune the ignition. Start the engine, get it up to operating temperature, and advance the distributor until the vacuum gauge holds steady or even drops a little. Shut the engine off for 5 minutes, then restart. If you detect any hesitation on startup after heat soak, back the distributor off 2 degrees, run it a couple of minutes, shut down again for 5 minutes, restart listening for hesitation while cranking. Repeat until it spins up with no hesitation, then lock that distributor down. You'll like the way the truck runs tuned this way enough that you may go back to it as your primary transport.
Carbureted engine would have no use for a MAP sensor.
Thank you great ayuda👍
Thought it was Marlborough