Looks like they didn’t put any weld through primer whenever they put the panels back together which is causing the rusting issue. Also those circle heat spot on the inside is from a dent puller, I recommend putting some type of cavity wax on it so you won’t have any issues later in the future. Glad you took it apart and checked before it started to get worse because it happens more often that you think at smaller collision shops
Just be be glad you found that rust and damaged area now than later. Did the paint on that rear quarter panel match up well to the door? How is the car market right now over there? Any luck you can just cut your losses and sell it then wait for another one to come up? I think you should stay B unless you find a killer deal on a K.
The door is a different shade of NH0. The car market here is bad. Everything is being exported.....b series long blocks are $3500 usd whereas K swaps can be had for roughly the same price for a full swap.
i'd say run the b18cr for as long as possible, you say its been rebuilt about 60k KM's/37k Mi's ago. I think it will take a whole lot more miles and abuse before any catastrophic failures occur. As long as you have a baffled oil pan and keep everything in the long block stock, you should be fine.
I remember saying to go DC5 or FD2 due to them being K-Series before 😊. BUT idk if price was a determining factor on your purchase, if your going to modify it, run the B-Series till it fails which will be a while due to it being rebuilt. And save for your swap and paperwork on it. 😊😊
DC2 just feels right to me. It's the only chassis I've ever owned. I'm definitely going to start collecting parts just to be safe. Things are getting too pricey here...
These cars rust in anything like a damp climate, even if they've never had bodywork done. Unless it's been cavity/coated with wax you're pretty much guaranteed to see some and in worse cases a lot, especially in the rear hatch area. They're like a bloody motorised sieve 😁(with leaking rear light gaskets etc). That water runs along the seams and pools in the rear inner arch areas and in the spare wheel well. Following routes like the rusty stains in yours on both sides. Fwiw M I have a few "Factory" misaligned panels in mine too and it's never seen a paint booth. The R's can also have structural panel gaps from factory. The most "well known" one is where the bottom front edge of the rear inner wheel arch meets the rear of the sill/rocker. Every one of the R's I've seen, both JDM and EuroDM, this gap was open to the elements on at least one side, mostly both. With some rust horror stories beyond... I've never seen this gap in non R DC2's, so I suspect it's part of the extra bracing/thicker panels in R manufacturing. I knew a guy with a real minter of a JDM R-x with 45k on the clock. Looked like a year old car. A baby came along and he put it away in storage. A few years later he asked me to help him get it back on the road again. Still looked mint, with only a couple of tiny bubbles in one rear arch, but it had never been cavity waxed and the rust had eaten a scary amount of the inner structure. He parted it out in the end. :( Like you said you've stripped your car so you get to see under the skirts as it were. Most owners never have so don't see what's what. Imho they did a good job on the repairs and if you hadn't stripped it you'd never know. Well, until the bubbles started on the outside, but without protection that would happen anyway, repairs or not. TL;DR? Looks fine to me M. Soak it in anti rust wax and you should be good.
PS I'm all about the Purity, but I think you're right going K. If your B had 100k on it I'd think differently, but with 250k... Plus as you say spares and support for B's are dwindling, whereas K has a world of options out there.
Glad you're still making vids. Would love to see the B stay but I understand the circumstances over there
If I could save money, I will but I may have to get with the times if I want to pursue any type of motorsport.
Looks like they didn’t put any weld through primer whenever they put the panels back together which is causing the rusting issue. Also those circle heat spot on the inside is from a dent puller, I recommend putting some type of cavity wax on it so you won’t have any issues later in the future. Glad you took it apart and checked before it started to get worse because it happens more often that you think at smaller collision shops
Maybe do the K-Swap last, but if you do, I’ll watch every video you put out documenting the journey!
At this point. It's inevitable. 90% sure it will happen between this year and next year.
B series hands the fuck down.
Just be be glad you found that rust and damaged area now than later. Did the paint on that rear quarter panel match up well to the door? How is the car market right now over there? Any luck you can just cut your losses and sell it then wait for another one to come up? I think you should stay B unless you find a killer deal on a K.
The door is a different shade of NH0. The car market here is bad. Everything is being exported.....b series long blocks are $3500 usd whereas K swaps can be had for roughly the same price for a full swap.
i'd say run the b18cr for as long as possible, you say its been rebuilt about 60k KM's/37k Mi's ago. I think it will take a whole lot more miles and abuse before any catastrophic failures occur. As long as you have a baffled oil pan and keep everything in the long block stock, you should be fine.
In theory it "should" last quite awhile, I'll continue to run it as long as I can!
How plentiful are 97-99 EK9s in your area? I'll be in the market for one in late May early June. I'm in Texas.
There's quite a few here , however they are EXPENSIVE!
@@MITONFILMS what's the ballpark? I'd imagine 9-12K.
Try 12k to 40k
@MITONFILMS I can do 12-15K I think it's worth it. Thanks for the info.
Did you contact the seller in Japan where you got it from
Yes but the salesman who sold me the car already quit 😂it's okay. I was already aware of rear end damage when I purchased it.
I remember saying to go DC5 or FD2 due to them being K-Series before 😊. BUT idk if price was a determining factor on your purchase, if your going to modify it, run the B-Series till it fails which will be a while due to it being rebuilt. And save for your swap and paperwork on it. 😊😊
DC2 just feels right to me. It's the only chassis I've ever owned. I'm definitely going to start collecting parts just to be safe. Things are getting too pricey here...
@MITONFILMS definitely, i would do the same, does UpGarage have alot of DC2 Parts??
Upgarage is overpriced actually for some parts. Yahoo auctions is an amazing resource where I get most of my parts from.
@@MITONFILMS aah ok, question?. Have u been to Autobacs ? Is it pricey there?
@@Geo-Mediaafter all it's basically the advanced auto parts or O Reilly's of japan so it is relatively inexpensive for the most part.
These cars rust in anything like a damp climate, even if they've never had bodywork done. Unless it's been cavity/coated with wax you're pretty much guaranteed to see some and in worse cases a lot, especially in the rear hatch area. They're like a bloody motorised sieve 😁(with leaking rear light gaskets etc). That water runs along the seams and pools in the rear inner arch areas and in the spare wheel well. Following routes like the rusty stains in yours on both sides.
Fwiw M I have a few "Factory" misaligned panels in mine too and it's never seen a paint booth. The R's can also have structural panel gaps from factory. The most "well known" one is where the bottom front edge of the rear inner wheel arch meets the rear of the sill/rocker. Every one of the R's I've seen, both JDM and EuroDM, this gap was open to the elements on at least one side, mostly both. With some rust horror stories beyond... I've never seen this gap in non R DC2's, so I suspect it's part of the extra bracing/thicker panels in R manufacturing.
I knew a guy with a real minter of a JDM R-x with 45k on the clock. Looked like a year old car. A baby came along and he put it away in storage. A few years later he asked me to help him get it back on the road again. Still looked mint, with only a couple of tiny bubbles in one rear arch, but it had never been cavity waxed and the rust had eaten a scary amount of the inner structure. He parted it out in the end. :(
Like you said you've stripped your car so you get to see under the skirts as it were. Most owners never have so don't see what's what. Imho they did a good job on the repairs and if you hadn't stripped it you'd never know. Well, until the bubbles started on the outside, but without protection that would happen anyway, repairs or not.
TL;DR? Looks fine to me M. Soak it in anti rust wax and you should be good.
Imma get some wax and get it ready. Probably should paint it too on the outside as the paint on the repaired side is starting to flake...
PS I'm all about the Purity, but I think you're right going K. If your B had 100k on it I'd think differently, but with 250k... Plus as you say spares and support for B's are dwindling, whereas K has a world of options out there.
Checking in
Send me the 5 lug swap with the engine and trans and front end 😅
Come and get it. Don't forget your checkbook!
@@MITONFILMS lol 😂 say less
K swap would be more practical for parts
I think so too. Hopefully Japanese inspection doesn't give me a hard time with it.
@@MITONFILMS hopefully it’s easier than here in California:/
@raysb240sx it is surprisingly 😂 sucks for CA folks
no such thing as a car that isnt fixable, just changes how much time and money needed to fix it depending on what hapened to it
2.0 turbo ecotec swap it