220V / 230V Mains Power Full Spectrum LED COB
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- Опубликовано: 11 дек 2017
- In this episode, I try some Mains voltage 220V/230V LED full spectrum Chip on Board (COB). They don't require a LED driver, they can be connected directly to mains voltage.
#led #led-cob #mains-led #230v-led #electronics
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These are a fine job. I've upgraded some old Halogen floodlight cases with these. Earlier ones I built didn't last because I didn't spend much time putting a heatsink in them. The later ones I built with half decent heatsinks are still going strong. Long lasting high powered lights for £2
Heatsink with fan or without fan?
Dido
I think they assume that the diodes have a spectrum curve that covers most visible wavelengths plus some IR.
I tried these ate fond that using a heat sink and it’s small. Fan works great the fan is 5 volts so a diode and a small cap with a series dropping resistor it ended up 2 watt and I had to shove it between the fins but seems to be reliable I have it on my bench and it’s been a year plus.
Hi can you do an update on how you installed these in your grow light
Cool just bought one of those ! real fun to test when it arrives going to grow tobacco actually and for under 5$ you cant go wrong . thx Dude ! / Paul Roger
Anyone know where to find cob grow lights that actually are full spectrum?
I've mounted two 50w chips on a 150x250x40mm alloy block with the cheapest 120mm fans that are available and those pieces don't even become lukewarm.
I bought 3 of those that are a 1000w each on 220v. Problem is that they work well on 110v but when switching to 220v they are extremely dimmed and are barely emitting any light. Since they are supposed to convert automatically from 110v to 220v what are we doing wrong??
When they pop they go with a bang
Can you tell me what those round pieces are and what they do?
Also the heatsink is necessary?
Did it work well with the plants?
Did you mean powerful or is that the actual name of the COB? You can get a Bridgelux Vero 29 SE COB from digikey for like $25.
I was hoping you would show how to run 4 or 5 of these together. I'm building a grow light, and tried wiring them in parallel, but they draw a bunch of power after 3 minutes and trip my circuit breaker. Maybe series instead?
You have a shit wiring/ breakers in your house if it trips pulling 6amps... That's also assuming you are using 5 of the 100 watt cobs and you are on 120volts... That's only around 720 watts.
Hi what's the background music ?
Hola compañero..como conecto un fusible térmico en una lampara de led cob 220v como esos ,de 3 de 30 w cada uno? la lampara tiene un ventilador a 12 voltios y quiero que cuando el ventilador falle..que al calentarse los led mas de la cuenta,así como 75º o menos.. que corte toda corriente ,gracias y a ver quien me echa una mano,por cierto sabes que máximo de temperatura a de tener un led cob ? y otra duda...el ventilador se pone que le entre el aire al disipador..o que lo saque? gracias
Did you test the light on plants? how good are they performing regarding plant growth?
Hi, I did not test them on plants yet, sorry.
Hi, I put one of this (50w) on a microprocessor's dissipator. Whit active cooling. And it's get hot to touch. What is the normal work temperature for this LEDs??
I think, for longevity, you should keep it around 45C, but if I'm not mistaken they should not get damaged while under 60C
Hi. I recently also switched to full spectrum cobs as you have shown. I was wondering if you had any great production in your plants. Flowering, health, maybe fruiting. Thanks for your answer in advance.
I don't have any plants growing, I had built a grow cube for Hackaday in 2016, however, the project never really got off the ground. It consisted of mainly leafy greens and some spinach. They all sprouted nicely, but my watering system was not configured properly and I didn't have any organic fertilizer to try.
I had one and it was broken easily. Also the casing can become alive or even the heatsink. It needs something like 100w tdp heatsink for 50 watt chip.
o de 30w esquenta tanto quanto o de 50w? tem uma média de tempo para apagar os leds?
(Does 30w heat as much as 50w? Do you have an average time to clear the LEDs?
Thank you for listening.)
They get very hot without a heatsink.
Don't you need to ground it? If so how can you do it?
very interesting! I have a question: what is the model of your electric clamp please?
Hi, it's a UNI-T UT210D 200A clamp - amzn.to/2PRXOcs
Can someone tell me if I can use the plug and wire from a lampi already own, the plug says 240v , the current lamp bulb(not the grow bulb I'm going to use) also has 240v written on it so I'm thinking it is good, but better to ask then blow myself up xD
Follow up, if I have 2 of these led boards, can I connect both to the same plug, or do they have to be set up a certain way for even power distribution
Would be interesting to know the PPFD or PAR value a 50w generates at 30cm distance. if you dont have a PAR meter, then may be you can test LUX meter app on your mobile and give back the value please?
Hi,so I finally got around to measuring the LED. Starting in a dark room, 0 Lux. At 30cm, approx 3800 Lux without heatsink. Once heatsink applied, got around 4500 average, high of 4787 Lux at 30cm.
Hi! Thank you for the video! I also ordered this light, but in 10W. It warms up and it was also too bright for me. Will a 3W of this led get less hot? I want to install it in a wooden cabinet as a spotlight. I ordered it because you can plug it in 220V directly, but now I don't know if it is safe to install it like that directly in the cabinet. Do you have any tips? What do you mean with active cooling?
Hi, Active cooling means having a fan blow air on it. Passive cooling would mean mounting the LED to something like a heatsink or a strip of aluminium. If you can find aluminium strips at your hardware store, perhaps 2mm thick and 20 - 30 mm wide, you can mount the LED to that. And use that under your cabinet.
@@Made2hack Thank you for your reply! This sounds like a great solution.
god job mate.
I drive them 7 in parallel but over a grid diode bridge and 47uf/250V cap (flicker) --> in series to that is a 9uF/250V AC Cap. with this setup the overall consumtion is 40 Watt, they last forever and are day bright. Its mounted onna 1.5m alu bar (7 equal spaced 50W LED) cover the whole box.
I can show you where to get the AC cap for 30 cents. Whadda say.
How can you drive them only with 44 watts with 7 of them wired in parallel ?
I don't understand why there would even be a L and N indication. Some 2 prong plugs here in SA can be inserted both ways round... Would I blow the light if I inserted the plug in the wrong way??
No it wouldn't, the on-board circuitry would handle that. Just like a regular bridge rectifier, which works either way it is plugged in. I can never figure out the reasons, since if you flip the plug and plug it in the other way, L & N are switched.
Haha exactly! Oh well, good news for me =D Thanks for the prompt response it's much appreciated!
There actually is a bridge rectifier on board. If you look at the chip in the left bottom corner, this is a BR...
for the certifications they have to have the polarity is that's why
Hi, how can I connect on off switch for this specific Cob driverless led? So I don't have to unplug my ac.
Hi there, essentially wire a switch in series with the solder pad marked Live.
@@Made2hack Hi, thanks for your reply. I don't understand well, what kind of switch can I use for this? And just wire it up in series with live wire?
@@MrLennonson Any kind of switch you would use for a household lamp. Think of this LED / COB as a combination light bulb and socket together. Any switch that can handle 5 Amps should be fine.
Hi, I did buy full spectrum cob 50 watts Led and test it with app luximeter from cellphone but it only show 200 lux is it demage or I need use other special of luximeter for measure led? Thank you
Hi, is the COB bright? I mean does it ouput a lot of light? If so, then probably the measurement on your phone is not correct. My luxmeter on my phone shows around 1300 - 1400 under my LED strips on my workbench. I've not tried it with the COB.
@@Made2hack hi, yes is so bright I have receive another comment that luximeter only measure mixed with Green color and the blurple one I will need a quantum measurement to measure it, thank you very much for answer ☺️
@@Made2hack it is too kow as compared to what is supposed to be emitted by a 50W LED. A conventional LED would emit about 4500-5000 lumens for 50W input power.. I think this inefficiency is what leads to excessive heat dissipation.. almost 25-30 Watts lf power is being lost as heat..
Could you please tell me the type of solder you used ? Mine wears off in the heat
Hi, I use Tin Lead solder, SnPb, I think 60/40 with flux inside the wire.
This can run hot enough to melt solder? Even with active cooling?
No. If they get hot enough to desolder the wire, they will be dead.
@@RealitaetsverlustTV yea it's cool I got some set up and they work well but it's hard to get solder to stick to the pads at all but once you have they are good
Decreasing voltage should eliminate the temperature issue. I just tested my 12v one for 11.1v it works without fan
That's is worthless for the 220VAC version because have a constant current power supply is not just an LED, so if you use less voltage the power consumption is the same.
Excelent video, Do you think that this led can work at 110v?
Hi Hector, I don't want to say for sure, since I don't know precisely the circuit being used to regulate the voltage. However, there are 110VAC units available on AliExpress, so it would probably be easier to buy them directly for 110V. Sometimes, they will mention 110V/220V and then you know they are universal.
these need 240v and will not light even dimly on 110v. They will also run on 180vdc if you want to remove the flicker(invisible to human eye but very apparent with camera)
so supply voltage is 240v?
how this video looks is this can be wired to a plug and off you go ? seems dangerous ! can you share wiring ?
Hi, It is wired directly to 220 - 240V yes. The drive circuit is built into it.
Made 2 Hack
cool wow tech has come so far
and its affordable!
so
led to dimmer to plug ?
Hi, unfortunately dimmer won't work with this circuit (at least I don't think so). Since it is an electronic driver.
Made 2 Hack
my logic .
.3 pin uk plug /earth live nut
.dimmer has/ earth live 1 live 2
.led has nut live
link earth from plug to earth in dimmer. link live from plug to live 1 in dimmer .
link live 2 to led and nut from plug ? soz 4 the crappy explanation
@@firstnamelastname4722connect an earth to the entire fixture heatsink and all
Hi
Can I PWM control these with an Arduino?
Hi Menino, it's difficult to say. I mean, I assume if you can figure out which chip controls the on / off time, I guess you may try to inject somehow a PWN signal on that specific pin. However, you would have to scrape away the epoxy resin and try to reverse engineer the circuit, unless someone already has done this. It would be easier if you had a LED COB that used DC power and you would PWM the transistor.
You can run these on DC, but you would need a PSU that can supply above 80VDC, which makes this a more dangerous device to use. PWM is possible, but then you would need to cut some traces and splice in a SSR, which can be controlled by an Arduino. Not recommended as you are still playing with high and possibly deadly current!!
It must be considered that isolating the led inside a small space will make it hotter. Even more if the heat sink is turned down and without any air circulation.
Is it necessary to build cooling system?
Hi, If you are running at full power, yes. In my test, it quickly reached 70 deg C on a CPU heat sink.
I mounted one on a Pentium 2 heat-sink with fan and with continuous running the chip reaches 75`C. Without I would give the chip less than 5 minutes before the solder melts.
www.ebay.com/itm/1pc-Aluminium-Heat-Sink-Cooling-Fan-20W-50W-100W-High-Power-Led-Light-89-89-55mm/232384636873?hash=item361b3427c9:g:D90AAOSwDrNZTdyuwith this heatsink and fan you keep the working temperature of this chip at about 62ºC
This heatsink is ideal because it brings up the perforations to drive the cob
If you touched the solder point would you get zapped? If so, how would you prevent
Well, you could get zapped if you touched the solder point if the LED was plugged in. After soldering, maybe cover the solder joint with silicone or maybe epoxy.
Hi, regular silicone is fine. You are not dealing with high temperature, so you don't need RTV silicone. Perhaps aquarium silicone since it is the friendliest and has no anti-mould chemicals. But if you think you will have mould issues (like in a humid environment), maybe use bathroom / kitchen silicone.
Don't use regular silicone. The board will get to hot and this will make the silicone brittle... Just cut your soldered wire as long as the pad on the board is, solder and then apply some resin like Scotchcast from 3M. Sorry to say, but your soldering is very messy...
On camera the light is pink/fuchsia, To the eyes is it white?
Nope, this is a so called "full spectrum" LED for plant growing. To be honest, it's mainly red spectrum with blue. So it has a pink hue.
@@Made2hack Thanks for answer me, I appreciate the info.
How did it last..? I ordered 10 pieces of 20w 😀
I ordered 50 of the warm white and cool white they don't last! Went overkill on heatsinks and cooling nothing helps. Drivers get to hot!
@@dutchman1341 I was ordered one year ago and still works , the temperature on chip must be lower than 60°C that means big cooler with fan :)
I have a cool white one on a CPU heatsink/fan combo above my work bench. Makes excellent task lighting. Not very efficient though.
My kil a watt meter says 65w at 120v
Can I use it without the heat sink?
If you use it a full power, it will get very hot very quick. It might burn.
Absolutely not
Certainly not.
Are the LED's still working?
Hi there, I did not put them in intensive use to be able to tell how they do after long use.
What will happend if I connect this to a phone charger?
Hi there, I assume nothing since it requires 230V to work.
How much lumen dose one chip produce?
I'm not 100% sure, but it looks like 50-60 Lumens / Watt, so like 2500 - 3000 Lumen per 50W Unit. For white light, its as high as 80-90 Lumen/watt.
Lumen is a unit that measure the light output in the human visible spectrum. Green light is in the mid of this spectrum and these LEDs are missing most of the green spectrum, because plants dont use it. So it is uselesss to measure growlights in lumens.
@@RealitaetsverlustTV as well as blue and red are in the visible spectrum
do they dim?
I have not tried, and I don't know if they dim natively.
they do
I was waiting for that oscilloscope the whole time. And you never connected it to the output of the LED's rectifiers. That would be the only significant information about these LEDs.
I don't think you should use most of the time of the video to illustrate joining to wires. We all understand that. Whats interesting how much cooling do you need and the actual light spectrum thirdly the efficiency.
Good point!
The efficiency of these cobs is horrible. They also produce a ton of heat. I have a cool white one on a CPU heatsink/fan combo above my work bench. Does make good task lighting.
do these not require an earth/ground??
They seem to have a GND point where you can solder the GND I suppose. If you were to attach it to a heatsink, I would make sure the heatsink is grounded. However, as I tested and probed, the back plate did not seem to have continuity to either Live or Neutral points. But to be safe maybe grounding heat sink and the GND point is a good idea.
thanks,that makes sense. I wired one of these direct to the mains and boy did it get hot in a matter of seconds. Will defo add a heatsink and a fan as well.
Yeah, when you output 50W on such a small surface area, it definitely needs forced air cooling or a giant heat sink. I mean, they dissipate maybe as much if not more than a modern CPU.
No need driver ? ?
Nope. It is built in.
All references shown above are expensive.buy from Ali express they are in $3-3.99 range.hey i am a youtuber like you no affliation to any retailer.good luck
Yeah, it's crazy the cheap prices on LEDs today. I just wonder if they are using low quality bin diodes.
Name of title should have been driverless led
that is not a full spectrum what I see or my screen has a terrible color cast.
this type of chip COB FULL SPECTRUM YOUR FUNCTIONING SHOULD BE UNDER 65 ° C YOU NEED A FAN
"Full spectrum" yeah right 🤣
it's strange they call it full spectrum light. If you don't count the single color leds, this one has the least complete spectrum
Nickolay Pelov
Hä?
4:27 no. they dont need active cooling. because they have thermal regulation. if they get too hot they themselves will start to limit their power....
False. Every high power led needs some kind of heatsink.
It's producing 1300-1400 lumens at almost 50 Watts. This is too low and indicates inefficiency of the module. It means about 25-30 Watts in being lost as heat when operating at full load..almost 50-60% heat loss is not something that can be accomplished without a heat sink.
THESE FURRINERZZZ ALL SAY SOLDER FUNNY ??????
I'm pretty sure "full spectrum" as it is used here is a marketing gimmick term.
You can't get full spectrum from a single color temperature.
And, unless this COB is magic, you can't put two different color temperatures in the same COB driver without two different COB modules.
"Full spectrum" is a marketing term that China uses to try and sell products to marijuana farmers.
I'd be happy to hear your explanation for why you used the term "full spectrum" here, and if you can prove me wrong, I'll happily admit it.
But i own one of these LEDs, and there is nothing 'full spectrum' about it.
Please try to avoid parroting generic meaningless marketing terms, because then all you're doing is
1) confusing \ misleading noobs
2) helping China sell products with incorrect applications \ functions to people who don't know any better