Triumph 650 Motorcycle Engine Disassembly & Rebuild part 6 - Lowbrow Customs
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- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
- This video is presented by: www.lowbrowcust...
Part 6 - With helpful tips and tricks, Todd takes a step by step walk through on some sub disassemblies including, removing the crank shaft bearing, rods, and the dreaded sludge trap. Todd also disassembles rocker boxes along with valve removal, showing you what to look for and how to know when certain parts need replaced.
If you missed Part 1 - • Triumph 650 Motorcycle...
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Check out part 11 - • Triumph 650 Motorcycle...
Check out part 12 - • Triumph 650 Motorcycle...
Check out Part 13 - • Triumph 650 Motorcycle...
00:17 - Remove crankshaft bearing.
03:00 - Removing the rods.
06:45 - Inspect journals and explanation on what to look for with ware on plane bearings and journals.
09:25 - Explanation about the dreaded sludge trap.
10:55 - Sludge Trap Removal.
13:05 - Removing the Sludge Trap plug.
13:41 - Inspect inside Sludge Trap.
14:13 - Remove Sludge Trap Tube
19:40 - Remove the rocker shafts, keepers and caps from the rocker boxes in preparation for vapor blasting.
24:24 - Repeat on second removal of all things on rocker box.
26:30 - Remove all 4 valves from cylinder head.
30:20 - Inspect valves and valve guides fitment as you remove each one. Valve to guide clearance.
31:20 - Bag and Tag each valve, keepers, springs and caps.
37:16 - Dont forget to heat up and remove the lay shaft and main shaft bearings from the inner tranny case.
Music by:
"Rooftop"
Composed by: Jahzzar
"Heebie-Jeebies"
Composed by: Graham Bole
"Through The Storm"
Composed by: Pipe Choir
Thank you for sharing your wisdom. I greatly appreciate your time and effort offered to your viewers. Very professionally done.
I've got an old 68 Bonneville engine sitting on the floor in the kitchen that I've got to get to rebuilding this winter so my daughter can sell the completed bike and get a little money, but at my age I've got the shakes so bad I'm having trouble with motivation. I rebuilt the rest of the basket case bike last winter including paint. Your presentation is so smooth that you give me new hope. There has got to be one more engine rebuild left in me before I go home. God bless ya.
Ed, I hope you got it done. I'm 69 and hoping the same thing.
I love these videos! Free knowledge is a rare thing. I’d love to spend hours and hours wrenching with this guy and learning
This is why I love RUclips. I don't own a Triumph. Let alone a bike at all, but watching this series has been awesome. I like the mechanical side of things and seeing how this came apart and will go back together has been wonderful. Also useful knowledge if I ever need it.
I'm fixing to have to overhaul a 71 so this series is a great help. Thank you for sharing these videos.
Thanks for keeping it real.Enjoy all your vids.Show us a bike ride sometime.Also please show your first start up of that engine.Awsome stuff.
You got lucky. That motor was still in really good shape.
best work of this type, i seen. thank you
Stay tuned as we are going to start filming the re-assembly this Friday !!
am waiting to assembly vids. love your vids. you take the time to explain all. What I need info on is the trans plundger. but can wait...lol.
Excellent video, thank you for sharing your vast knowledge with us, extremely educational....
10:40 Tickled a rememberance, that one did... Dad who'd had been a mechanic all his life referred to thowing a rod as ''It's got a turkey foot stickin' out of the block after it had tripped over the valves'' Damn could he ever color up them mechanical dissolvement & solvments. Thank's for taking us down the trail of all them should & should'nt be's. 122617
Great video, very well done. Just thought to mention if you are using new conrods when rebuilding be careful if you have the early imperial bearing crankcases. The new standard type steel cap rods that may be supplied can be very slightly bigger (stronger which is good). If you are unlucky they can foul the early crankcases (with the conrod bolt) on the drive side case just outside the line of the rear barrel stud. The imperial cases seem to have slightly more metal round this area. It needs 2-3 mm taken out at this place or when you put the pistons and barrel back on the crank can turn but will stop dead at one point. Just check, it happens on some imperial bearing cases and its a pain if you notice too late.
Hi that brings back lots of memories I baked my crank case in mums oven o dear she was not happy ,that was way back in 1971 ,on my 69 bonnie thanks for the blog 👌👌
31:30 I use "port" and "starboard" to keep myself from getting confused. (Comes from years of growing up on the coast with a boat Capt. for a dad)
"Port-fore" valve would be an exhaust and "Starboard-aft" valve would be an intake.
Great series, thanks!
Brilliant video
Awesome! Thanks for posting these excellent videos!
Lets go , Great Video , Thanks Todd
Really want to see the vapor blasting!
Todd great video's. thanks for the help. when do u think part 7 is coming out
Great stuff again - this is going to become the definitive series. Can't wait for the field trip :) Sometime, towards the end of the series, can you show us all the specialist tools we need? Some that are proprietary from Lowbrow, some from elsewhere, and what wrenches/sockets do we need that are outside the normal 5 (1/8 - 3/8 Whitworth) and if any BA sizes are required. Many thanks.
We have whit worth wrenches and sockets available if you can't find them anywhere. www.lowbrowcustoms.com/tools/whitworth-tools.html There is a slew of tools for the job with pullers and wrenches, depending on the year of the motor some bolts can be just standard or just whit worth or a combination. If you have any questions or need help with the not knowing of what certain tool you would need, feel free to contact Todd directly. His email todd@lowbrowcustoms.com or call our tech support and he would be more than happy to help on the phone as well, 1-855-456-9276. Thanks again for the support and glad you are digging these videos.
just a hint, MAP cycle in Florida makes steel spacers to eliminate the thackery washers in the rocker boxes ,no floating rocker arms
Part 7 please :)
Top job
@11:30 or so...... Drag Link Socket from NAPA (NB59). Todd, you mentioned it was a “1/16 D.L.S.”..... did you mean 15/16inch? I think you did! My local NAPA reps could not locate the 1/16 nor the referenced NB59.
I’m about to rebuild my engine and would love to know the correct dimensions of the drag link socket. It is very hard to get Napa this side of the pond but we can get SnapOn can someone please help me here ???
What's the deal with some of the older 70s triumph engines? I've seen some videos of some very interesting sounding bikes... Are they single pin cranks? Or offset firing order or something? Can hardly tell the difference between them and a Harley... Aftermarket cams maybe?
Always interesting
Can't wait to see part 7 👍 due you have a date for part 7 ?
“ There’s some kind of compound on there “ ( flywheel bolt ) I thought the factory put some kind of Loctite on the flywheel bolts. I thought they all had it, I thought you were supposed to put mild Loctite on the threads. According to him it sounds like nobody does.
After all the tutorials on Internet I have read where you are supposed to heat lightly enough to soften the Loctite to help make sure you don’t break the bolt off, he just grabs a wrench and whops it off.
I was watching to see him re- install a sludge tube and replace and torque the flywheel bolt but since he only did it on extra crankshaft we only got to see removal.
An observation: The arrangement of washers and spring washers on the rocker shafts is incorrect here, by the factory. Apparently there was a Service Bulletin correcting this mistake, as well as the same mistake shown in the Service Manual for the late 60's-early '70's models, recommending returning to the earlier assembly arrangement: Toss that single flat washer with the small end shaft hole, and use four 1/2" flat hardened shim washers, and two spring washers. The lineup from one end to the other is: Spring washer, 1/2" flat washer, rocker arm, 1/2" flat washer, center bridge, 1/2" flat washer, rocker arm, 1/2" flat washer, spring washer. The spring washers should never be placed against the rocker's journal ends, and always against the r/box casting. They will not rotate or damage the aluminum in any way. The rockers will rotate much easier running against the hard flat washers, plus it helps keep the oil in the rocker journals and not spewing out past the spring washers. The rockers should have a 'notch' in their outer end faces at the flat washers for oil escape to lube the rocker-to-valve stem tips, etc. The photo on page 80 of Glenn's Triumph manual is the proper arrangement to use. The drawing in the factory Triumph 650 Twin Workshop Manual, page B7, is incorrect!
Use a 1/2-13 tap on a 500cc twin. Everything else is the same procedure.
where do you buy your tools
christian straw www.lowbrowcustoms.com/tools.html
www.lowbrowcustoms.com/tools/shopby/triumph.html#page=1
We make most of the Triumph specialty tools, with the rest in the works! Made in the USA, versus all the rest available that are made in Taiwan or the UK, shipped halfway around the world, adding to the cost. Plus, our quality and tolerances are WAY better than any alternative out there. We put a lot of time and effort into research and development, and since we use them ourselves, we know what works!