I was going to try to use a pickle fork but after continuing to search for solutions I stumbled onto your video. The tool will cost me more than the harmonic balancer but if it makes the job easy and hassle free then it is worth it. Thank you for making this video
A very good video. I ordered a slightly different puller off Amazon that should work. In case it doesn't - I will get the one you are using. Thanks a lot for filming it!
Thank you Dennis drescher im going to order mine im putting all my stuff together got to replace my oil pump soon thanks again i found this very helpful
That one being, I think, the third longest. Which would be 6.5 inches long. I guess I never thought about how long it needed to be. I just tried a couple used the one that fit best.
Great video but you need to tell folks that they need to pull the fan first. I didn’t and got stuck with the balancer almost off. Needed another 1/8” between the balancer and the fan. At that point could not get to fan to take it off because balancer was in the way and could not put balancer back on because install tool required fan to be out of the waynot back on.
Hi Mike, I'm not really familiar with the 4.3, that's a V6, I think? I looked at the OTC 6667 Damper Puller box to see which engines are covered. That engine was not listed and it covers a wide range of engines from 1990 on. I take it that the old standard 2/3 bolt puller doesn't work? Truthfully, I have no experence with that engine so I couldn't say if this puller would work or not. If you sent me a picture of the front of the balancer I might be able to help you figure it out. Regarding instalation, no, I used the old harmonic balancer bolt for that. However, you need to get the hub/balancer on far enough for the threads to catch. It was a bit tricky but not real hard. BTW, you are supposed to replace the bolt with a new one whenever you remove the balancer. I didn't do that but if at some point it lets loose and I find there is a hole in my hood, I'll be sure to make a video of it and share my experiece. :-)
Thanks.. I didn't get that far yet. Not sure if that's the problem yet. Yes it's a v6. And didn't know about getting a new bolt..thanks for the info. Whenever I do it I'll be sure to get one. At some point I'll take a pic. Thanks again
Hi Teddy, that was a bit of an ordeal. The balancer pulley is hard to hold on to. I'm sure there is a tool for that purpose but I didn't have one. What worked for me was a chain wrench. I didn't have one, and AutoZone or O'Reilly didn't have one I could rent either. I couldn't find a big enough one so I bought two cheap smaller ones from Northern Tool and combined the chain to make it big enough to go around the circumference of the balancer pulley. I carefully wrapped the pulley surface with a towel and duct tape to protect it. Doing it alone, it was very tricky because I had to have extensions on both the socket wrench and the breaker bar that was holding the chain wrench tight. Some how I got them in sync and got enough torque to break the bolt loose. I wouldn't advise doing it alone like I did. I look a little for a chain wrench like I got but all I found was the one I put the link for below so you can see what it looks like. I paid less than $10 each for the ones I found. You can buy larger ones from Northern Tool, I see, but they cost around $80. I hope that helps. --Dennis Chain wrench link: www.amazon.com/GearWrench-2595D-Square-Drive-Wrench/dp/B000RH4HK0/ref=sr_1_10?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1423354239&sr=1-10&keywords=chain+wrenches
As I noted earlier, a chain wrench will work to hold it, but it isn't easy. Michael, in the reply above mentions using an impact wrench. That would probably be the best but it will need to be a really good one. The one I had access to at the time I made the video would even touch it. It will take a good IR, SnapOn or other high-end tool to break it loose with a good supply of air.
i got a 2000 chevy s10 using the bolt type to remove the vibration damper, but it just keeps spinning. i have the crankshaft pulley off, including center bolt. Should the Large stud that goes into the center hole on the vibration damper actually thread into it?
Not sure which engine that is. I can't fully visualize what you are describing but if it is like the older 3-hole style puller, then no, the large bolt/stud doesn't thread into the crankshaft. However, there should be a kind of "button" that pushes on the end of the bolt so that it allows the bolt to turn and apply full force on the crankshaft, pushing/pulling off the balancer.
it is a 3-hole bolt-type puller. I thread everthing in...the 3 bolts and the large bolt in the center. I turn the large center bolt to drive it in...but when i do that, the vibration damper keeps rotating. Wondering if i am supposed to jam something in the fly wheel to keep it from turning?
If you have the three bolts firmly installed you can take a large pry bar and put it between two of the three bolts to help hold the balancer in place. That is what I normally do. However, use something soft between the bar and the bolts to protect the thread of the bolts, something like an old rag. You don't want to wreck the threads on the bolts. Also, try to use a steady pull on the main bolt to keep the pressure on. Don't jerk on it or you may end up breaking or bending something. Take your time. Also, you might want to use some kind of an extension on the wrench you use on the main bolt. Not too much but enough to give you some leverage.
This would have been a great video had you shown the people where to clamp your puller to. All you show is you putting it in a dark space and no hook up.
Jodee, thanks for your observation. I made some assumptions about people's general knowledge of how three jaw pullers work. I apologize for that. I guess if I had it to over, I would have taken a couple moments at the end of the video to show on a well lit workbench how the puller attached to the front of the harmonic balancer. Basically, there are three tabs caste into the balancer that the puller jaws hook up to. The core of the balancer is rather small so it would be hard to put the jaws any where else. Once the jaws of the puller are in position and a little tension is applied by hand on the screw shaft of the puller, it is ready to go. Please let me know if that isn't clear. I'll be happy to answer any further questions.
Thanks for the clarification. I was only going by what it said on the big plastic cover on the top of the engine. It said Vortec so I'm not sure what else to call it. Either way, I got my balancer off and was able to complete the repair so I'm happy.
Yes but it's an LS based Vortech, not a Generation small block Vortech. I wasn't try to demean your bid, just point out the difference between the two. And no, I don't have a video as my LS experience pre dates that as an easy option, but here's my thread on the subject, please note what can happen if you install the new crank bolt wrong. Take care ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-external-engine/1262236-ls-swap-top.html
I'm not sure how the video would be wrong when the procedure was successful and I got the job done. My aim in putting this video up on RUclips was to give others who have this type of balancer on their engine a clue as to how to remove it. When I posted this video over two years ago, there didn't seem to be any info on how to remove the balancer on this type of Chevy engine (call it whatever you want). I'm assuming you have a better video so please post that link here so others can learn from your experience as well. Thanks!
I get your point now. I looked around a bit and I now see what I was missing. As you pointed out, the block is LS. Vortech refers to the type of head and induction system used on that block. So, yes, it is an LS. (I wonder, did they ever use Vortech style induction and heads on the old generation small block?) Regarding the crank bolt, yes, as I recall, that can be a bear. Has anyone done a video on how to reinstall the balancer? I wouldn't promote the method I used when I did mine. :-)
Teddy R use an impact wrench if you have one, if not purchase a strap wrench on amazon, or you may be able to rent one from Oreily's or Autozone. Mine came off using an impact wrench.
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I was going to try to use a pickle fork but after continuing to search for solutions I stumbled onto your video. The tool will cost me more than the harmonic balancer but if it makes the job easy and hassle free then it is worth it. Thank you for making this video
Your very welcome. Glad it helped.
A very good video.
I ordered a slightly different puller off Amazon that should work.
In case it doesn't - I will get the one you are using.
Thanks a lot for filming it!
Thank you Dennis drescher im going to order mine im putting all my stuff together got to replace my oil pump soon thanks again i found this very helpful
"That one" being what size length sir? Or did I miss that info somewhere?
That one being, I think, the third longest. Which would be 6.5 inches long. I guess I never thought about how long it needed to be. I just tried a couple used the one that fit best.
Dennis Drescher Thanks sir.
Great video but you need to tell folks that they need to pull the fan first. I didn’t and got stuck with the balancer almost off. Needed another 1/8” between the balancer and the fan. At that point could not get to fan to take it off because balancer was in the way and could not put balancer back on because install tool required fan to be out of the waynot back on.
Thanks for the video. Will that puller work on a Chevy 4.3? And is that also an Installer? If not......what did you use to install the new one?
Hi Mike, I'm not really familiar with the 4.3, that's a V6, I think? I looked at the OTC 6667 Damper Puller box to see which engines are covered. That engine was not listed and it covers a wide range of engines from 1990 on. I take it that the old standard 2/3 bolt puller doesn't work? Truthfully, I have no experence with that engine so I couldn't say if this puller would work or not. If you sent me a picture of the front of the balancer I might be able to help you figure it out. Regarding instalation, no, I used the old harmonic balancer bolt for that. However, you need to get the hub/balancer on far enough for the threads to catch. It was a bit tricky but not real hard. BTW, you are supposed to replace the bolt with a new one whenever you remove the balancer. I didn't do that but if at some point it lets loose and I find there is a hole in my hood, I'll be sure to make a video of it and share my experiece. :-)
Thanks.. I didn't get that far yet. Not sure if that's the problem yet. Yes it's a v6. And didn't know about getting a new bolt..thanks for the info. Whenever I do it I'll be sure to get one. At some point I'll take a pic. Thanks again
How did you get the center bolt off,,,,I'm having a hard time getting mine off....
Hi Teddy, that was a bit of an ordeal. The balancer pulley is hard to hold on to. I'm sure there is a tool for that purpose but I didn't have one. What worked for me was a chain wrench. I didn't have one, and AutoZone or O'Reilly didn't have one I could rent either. I couldn't find a big enough one so I bought two cheap smaller ones from Northern Tool and combined the chain to make it big enough to go around the circumference of the balancer pulley. I carefully wrapped the pulley surface with a towel and duct tape to protect it. Doing it alone, it was very tricky because I had to have extensions on both the socket wrench and the breaker bar that was holding the chain wrench tight. Some how I got them in sync and got enough torque to break the bolt loose. I wouldn't advise doing it alone like I did. I look a little for a chain wrench like I got but all I found was the one I put the link for below so you can see what it looks like. I paid less than $10 each for the ones I found. You can buy larger ones from Northern Tool, I see, but they cost around $80. I hope that helps. --Dennis
Chain wrench link: www.amazon.com/GearWrench-2595D-Square-Drive-Wrench/dp/B000RH4HK0/ref=sr_1_10?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1423354239&sr=1-10&keywords=chain+wrenches
How did you keep the harmonic balancer from turning while you removed it?
As I noted earlier, a chain wrench will work to hold it, but it isn't easy. Michael, in the reply above mentions using an impact wrench. That would probably be the best but it will need to be a really good one. The one I had access to at the time I made the video would even touch it. It will take a good IR, SnapOn or other high-end tool to break it loose with a good supply of air.
Clean video man
Will this work on a 2007 gmc sierra 1500 classic old body 4.3l 6cyl 2 x 4
I honestly don't know. I'm sure it would work if the the balancer/pulley is the same type. I've never pulled one off of a .3L cyl. Sorry.
What year its that chevy ? I got a 2005 silverado wil lthat work for me?
Yes, it should. I can't see why it wouldn't.
hello ,i have 2007 escalade esv awd 6.2L, to put new harmonic have any mark?? how install ?? than you
i got a 2000 chevy s10 using the bolt type to remove the vibration damper, but it just keeps spinning. i have the crankshaft pulley off, including center bolt. Should the Large stud that goes into the center hole on the vibration damper actually thread into it?
Not sure which engine that is. I can't fully visualize what you are describing but if it is like the older 3-hole style puller, then no, the large bolt/stud doesn't thread into the crankshaft. However, there should be a kind of "button" that pushes on the end of the bolt so that it allows the bolt to turn and apply full force on the crankshaft, pushing/pulling off the balancer.
it is a 3-hole bolt-type puller. I thread everthing in...the 3 bolts and the large bolt in the center. I turn the large center bolt to drive it in...but when i do that, the vibration damper keeps rotating. Wondering if i am supposed to jam something in the fly wheel to keep it from turning?
If you have the three bolts firmly installed you can take a large pry
bar and put it between two of the three bolts to help hold the balancer
in place. That is what I normally do. However, use something soft
between the bar and the bolts to protect the thread of the bolts,
something like an old rag. You don't want to wreck the threads on the
bolts. Also, try to use a steady pull on the main bolt to keep the
pressure on. Don't jerk on it or you may end up breaking or bending
something. Take your time. Also, you might want to use some kind of an
extension on the wrench you use on the main bolt. Not too much but
enough to give you some leverage.
Thanks a lot becuz I was what wondering want tool is needed to removing a damper off a P30 box truck w/ the chevy 360 vertec.
This would have been a great video had you shown the people where to clamp your puller to. All you show is you putting it in a dark space and no hook up.
Jodee, thanks for your observation. I made some assumptions about people's general knowledge of how three jaw pullers work. I apologize for that. I guess if I had it to over, I would have taken a couple moments at the end of the video to show on a well lit workbench how the puller attached to the front of the harmonic balancer. Basically, there are three tabs caste into the balancer that the puller jaws hook up to. The core of the balancer is rather small so it would be hard to put the jaws any where else. Once the jaws of the puller are in position and a little tension is applied by hand on the screw shaft of the puller, it is ready to go. Please let me know if that isn't clear. I'll be happy to answer any further questions.
Ah, that's an LS engine NOT A VORTEC!
Thanks for the clarification. I was only going by what it said on the big plastic cover on the top of the engine. It said Vortec so I'm not sure what else to call it. Either way, I got my balancer off and was able to complete the repair so I'm happy.
Yes but it's an LS based Vortech, not a Generation small block Vortech. I wasn't try to demean your bid, just point out the difference between the two. And no, I don't have a video as my LS experience pre dates that as an easy option, but here's my thread on the subject, please note what can happen if you install the new crank bolt wrong. Take care
ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-external-engine/1262236-ls-swap-top.html
I'm not sure how the video would be wrong when the procedure was successful and I got the job done. My aim in putting this video up on RUclips was to give others who have this type of balancer on their engine a clue as to how to remove it. When I posted this video over two years ago, there didn't seem to be any info on how to remove the balancer on this type of Chevy engine (call it whatever you want). I'm assuming you have a better video so please post that link here so others can learn from your experience as well. Thanks!
I get your point now. I looked around a bit and I now see what I was missing. As you pointed out, the block is LS. Vortech refers to the type of head and induction system used on that block. So, yes, it is an LS. (I wonder, did they ever use Vortech style induction and heads on the old generation small block?) Regarding the crank bolt, yes, as I recall, that can be a bear. Has anyone done a video on how to reinstall the balancer? I wouldn't promote the method I used when I did mine. :-)
removes vid from my vortec 4200 inline six playlist - thanks
Tool #6667....
Way he talks makes video unwatchable
Why did you take the water pump off?
I had to take off the timing chain cover because I was replacing the oil pump and sump pickup seal.
How did you get the center bolt off...Having a hard time getting mine to loosen up..
Teddy R use an impact wrench if you have one, if not purchase a strap wrench on amazon, or you may be able to rent one from Oreily's or Autozone. Mine came off using an impact wrench.
Teddy R i remove my with impact