Before tightening it down, you should always push the optic all the way FORWARD in the slot (including rifles also). When you fire -- the inertia of the optic wants to hold itself still, while the rest of the firearm is recoiling to the rear, so if your optic has any space in front, where it could possibly slide forward- it WILL slide forward eventually as you jackhammer your gun with thousands of rounds. Which can cause your optic to become loose, or simply lose zero, etc.. The fix for this is to always slide it FORWARD as far as it can when mounting. So this way, when it recoils, the optic is already tightly up against the slide (or rail slot on a rifle), and there's no free space for the optic to move and become loose.. This will also give you a much more repeatable zero when removing and remounting your optic; because you are returning it to the same place it was before. cheers
So slide the optic all the way forward. Im guessing the lugs wont let it slide backwards during recoil? Also, do you ever apply blue lock tight to the mounting screw so it doesn't back out? Or just hand tight like the video and put witness marks
@@willr4880 If you know you're going to keep it married to that rifle-- then YES, Iocktite is a good idea. But if you're swapping it on and off other rifles a lot and just playing with different setups, then don't do it yet.... Also the "lugs" won't stop the optic from moving to the rear; I mean, it can only move a 1/4 inch or whatever until it hits the lug-- and that stops it. But the point is, if it moves that 1/4"-- it will throw off your zero. If you press it forward in the groove before you tighen it; then the pressure is pushing against the body and that front lug rather than pushing against the screws-- which can rattle loose.
In milling a glock 19 for an Acro is it necessary for the back up sight to be placed forward of the optic due to possible interference with the firing pin channel during the milling process?
Hi! I’ve a question. When getting a Glock slide cut for the ACRO with the rear sight IN FRONT of the OPTIC, would one still be able to use the Tango Down ACRO lens protector with a Dawson rear sight installed at the same time? Thank you for your help.
If you go to their website, and find the optic cut you want for your gun, they have the sights for that cut down at the bottom of the page (i.e. Aimpoint Acro Iron Sights for Glock). Select your cut and where you want the irons (front or back), then go back and select the appropriate irons. They do a great job all around.
![KSI - Dirty [Official Visualiser]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/VoDh1h1dPUE/mqdefault.jpg)
Before tightening it down, you should always push the optic all the way FORWARD in the slot (including rifles also). When you fire -- the inertia of the optic wants to hold itself still, while the rest of the firearm is recoiling to the rear, so if your optic has any space in front, where it could possibly slide forward- it WILL slide forward eventually as you jackhammer your gun with thousands of rounds. Which can cause your optic to become loose, or simply lose zero, etc..
The fix for this is to always slide it FORWARD as far as it can when mounting. So this way, when it recoils, the optic is already tightly up against the slide (or rail slot on a rifle), and there's no free space for the optic to move and become loose..
This will also give you a much more repeatable zero when removing and remounting your optic; because you are returning it to the same place it was before. cheers
So slide the optic all the way forward. Im guessing the lugs wont let it slide backwards during recoil? Also, do you ever apply blue lock tight to the mounting screw so it doesn't back out? Or just hand tight like the video and put witness marks
@@willr4880 If you know you're going to keep it married to that rifle-- then YES, Iocktite is a good idea. But if you're swapping it on and off other rifles a lot and just playing with different setups, then don't do it yet.... Also the "lugs" won't stop the optic from moving to the rear; I mean, it can only move a 1/4 inch or whatever until it hits the lug-- and that stops it. But the point is, if it moves that 1/4"-- it will throw off your zero. If you press it forward in the groove before you tighen it; then the pressure is pushing against the body and that front lug rather than pushing against the screws-- which can rattle loose.
You guys acro cut my gen 4 g19 and its amazing. No plates to deal with. Direct attachment to my slide. “Bombproof” as the buzzword users like to say
Your mustache is majestic and inspirational
In milling a glock 19 for an Acro is it necessary for the back up sight to be placed forward of the optic due to possible interference with the firing pin channel during the milling process?
I had mine acro cut and the back up sight is behind the optic
It's only necessary if you are milling deep, you can leave the sight in the back but the optic will sit much higher because you can only cut so deep
Hi! I’ve a question. When getting a Glock slide cut for the ACRO with the rear sight IN FRONT of the OPTIC, would one still be able to use the Tango Down ACRO lens protector with a Dawson rear sight installed at the same time? Thank you for your help.
I haven't had my hands on one of them but my gut says probably not.
are you guys doing acro cuts for p320's?
Can you mill a p320 for the ACRO p2?
What iron sights do you recommend to go with the Acro?
If you go to their website, and find the optic cut you want for your gun, they have the sights for that cut down at the bottom of the page (i.e. Aimpoint Acro Iron Sights for Glock). Select your cut and where you want the irons (front or back), then go back and select the appropriate irons. They do a great job all around.
Will the cut depth sit the acro window level with the slide?
lol bro. no
What base plate would I get if I wanted to put it on my glock 19x
The G17/34/45/19X model.
How much to do an Acro cut on a P2000S/K?
Sorry, we don't currently work on P2Ks. Our friends at impactcncmachine.com do.
Is it necessary to have the slide milled on a glock 40 10 mm mos.