dude this is a cool video! I'm about to get the eBrewing kit from these guys but i don't know if i should still getting the Brite Tank from them. Should i get it?
Personally I think it’s just as easy to just transfer to a keg and carbonate, but if money is no object and you really want to dive deep into the hobby then a Brite Tank will allow you to have even better beer going into your kegs. I rack from the Unitank into my corny kegs through the liquid out port, which works well enough but if I get any sort of hop material in there it clogs and it makes kegging a real pain. A BBT should resolve most of those headaches. Depending on how quickly you drink your beer you could even just serve off of the BBT.
You would want to wait until the beer is finished fermenting and has had a chance to condition a bit. Yeast need oxygen to ferment beer so if you start with CO2 in the tank they will not be very happy. Basically as soon as the beer is done fermenting (check my video on diacetyl tests, it is a good reference on figuring out when your beer is finished) you want to cold crash it (make sure there is positive pressure on the tank so you don’t pull a vacuum). Once the beer has been at terminal temps for at least 24hrs you can start carbonating using the method shown. A safer and easier, albeit slower method is to just inject CO2 through the carb stone until you hit your required pressure (use a carbonation chart) and leave it for a week or so. Check it every day because it will lose pressure (this is normal - it means the beer is absorbing the atmospheric CO2 in the tank). Keep topping it up through the carb stone until you’re ready to package. As long as you set your pressure correctly it is impossible to overcarb your beer this way, but it could take quite a while to actually become carbonated.
I have the exact same set up. Im not getting as much carbonation as id like. When I take samples my temp is higher than expected. Have you noticed that when you set the temp its off? Maybe my glycol chiller is running into issues at lower temps. Ferm temps I see no issues.
You’re talking cold crash temps, right? I do have trouble getting a typical 5-6gal batch below 35-36f when cold crashing. I think it is intrinsic to the design of the cooling coil. It doesn’t have as much contact with the beer as say a jacketed tank would. I think that loss of efficiency makes it impossible to cool the beer down below a certain point. As long as your glycol chiller is hitting it’s set point and isn’t running constantly then you’re fine. You’ll see that the pump that supplies glycol to the chiller coil continuously runs if the tank isn’t at its target temp. That’s how you can tell it’s a result of the design of the cooling system.
Generally not a concern if you primary ferment with the carb stone in the tank. You could purge the tank if you are using the Unitank as a brite tank but that’s an entire process in itself. I only have 1 Unitank currently so I haven’t delved into it. If you have a specific use case that you’re curious about just let me know and I can try to help.
Hey, how long you think it takes to lower the temperature with a glycol chiller from 77f to 35-36f in a 1bbl tank ? And how long it takes to carbonate with a carb stone ?
It depends on a few factors but usually crashes are complete within approx 24-36hrs with a properly sized chilling system and insulation on the tank/glycol lines. Not to mention ambient temps. How quickly a beer takes carb depends on how effectively you can chill it as well. A beer that is at 33-34f will take carb much faster than a beer at even 35-36f. Just check your carb chart and get your head pressure set right. I would recommend doing things different than shown in the video nowadays if you don’t have a means of measuring carb (homebrewers don’t really have this convenience). I would just run 2-3 sets through the carb stone as shown in the video then just leave it at the pressure your carb chart recommends. If you’re packaging off the 1bbl for sale or in a way where you can’t adjust carb after it’s packaged then I would look into a Taprite brand carb checker to make sure you hit your targets. Otherwise you’d be chasing your tail a bit hoping to hit carb spec. Sorry a bit long winded but there is a lot of info to cover. Let me know if you have any more questions!
Nice! I was just looking at those earlier today actually. Let me know what you think of the BBT’s! Also let me know how carbonating goes on the BBT. The technique I showed in the video here is kind of niche and specific to quickly carbonating on the Uni. You should be able to just set it and forget it with the BBT rather than run bursts and purging like I showed in the video. I intend to make more videos to correct myself and expand upon this but haven’t had the time. Feel free to reach out if you have any trouble!
Hello! The type of lines I use for my co2 are the type here: a.co/d/3qkYHik Just generic gas tubing. You can also use braided lines, etc. as well but they’re generally more expensive (they are nice to see if you’ve had backflips though). I bought 25’ of this type and cut it down for my uses (kegerator lines, co2 for Unitank, etc. Hope that helps!
@@tybrewing9807 Thanks! I see this is 5/16 tubing instead of 3/8, I've been looking for 3/8 but I've seen people recommend using a smaller size for the co2 lines to avoid leaks, does the 5/16 tubing fit well on the unitank's 3/8 barb valve?
Now that you mention it. I do have two separate barbs. I have a 3/8” for a blowoff hose as well as a 1/4” for my gas line. I think I just got one from my local home brew store because I was in a hurry at the time. It’s been a couple of years now so my memory isn’t as fresh.
Hi! To be honest I’m just a guy that makes beer in his basement. I do work at a brewery but everything I do on this channel is my own work, knowledge, etc (for better or for worse). Perhaps you could reach out to one of the big manufacturers to see if they can ship to your locale!
You’re a real life saver! Me and my friend own one of those and we were always struggling with this issue, thanks a lot!
That’s awesome! I’m happy I was able to help!
dude this is a cool video! I'm about to get the eBrewing kit from these guys but i don't know if i should still getting the Brite Tank from them. Should i get it?
Personally I think it’s just as easy to just transfer to a keg and carbonate, but if money is no object and you really want to dive deep into the hobby then a Brite Tank will allow you to have even better beer going into your kegs.
I rack from the Unitank into my corny kegs through the liquid out port, which works well enough but if I get any sort of hop material in there it clogs and it makes kegging a real pain. A BBT should resolve most of those headaches. Depending on how quickly you drink your beer you could even just serve off of the BBT.
When do you turn on your carbonation stone? When the beer is done fermenting, or right when you put it in the tank?
You would want to wait until the beer is finished fermenting and has had a chance to condition a bit. Yeast need oxygen to ferment beer so if you start with CO2 in the tank they will not be very happy.
Basically as soon as the beer is done fermenting (check my video on diacetyl tests, it is a good reference on figuring out when your beer is finished) you want to cold crash it (make sure there is positive pressure on the tank so you don’t pull a vacuum). Once the beer has been at terminal temps for at least 24hrs you can start carbonating using the method shown.
A safer and easier, albeit slower method is to just inject CO2 through the carb stone until you hit your required pressure (use a carbonation chart) and leave it for a week or so. Check it every day because it will lose pressure (this is normal - it means the beer is absorbing the atmospheric CO2 in the tank). Keep topping it up through the carb stone until you’re ready to package. As long as you set your pressure correctly it is impossible to overcarb your beer this way, but it could take quite a while to actually become carbonated.
I have the exact same set up. Im not getting as much carbonation as id like. When I take samples my temp is higher than expected. Have you noticed that when you set the temp its off? Maybe my glycol chiller is running into issues at lower temps. Ferm temps I see no issues.
You’re talking cold crash temps, right?
I do have trouble getting a typical 5-6gal batch below 35-36f when cold crashing. I think it is intrinsic to the design of the cooling coil. It doesn’t have as much contact with the beer as say a jacketed tank would. I think that loss of efficiency makes it impossible to cool the beer down below a certain point. As long as your glycol chiller is hitting it’s set point and isn’t running constantly then you’re fine. You’ll see that the pump that supplies glycol to the chiller coil continuously runs if the tank isn’t at its target temp. That’s how you can tell it’s a result of the design of the cooling system.
How do you get the ambient air out prior??
Generally not a concern if you primary ferment with the carb stone in the tank. You could purge the tank if you are using the Unitank as a brite tank but that’s an entire process in itself. I only have 1 Unitank currently so I haven’t delved into it. If you have a specific use case that you’re curious about just let me know and I can try to help.
cool video
Thanks!
Hey, how long you think it takes to lower the temperature with a glycol chiller from 77f to 35-36f in a 1bbl tank ? And how long it takes to carbonate with a carb stone ?
It depends on a few factors but usually crashes are complete within approx 24-36hrs with a properly sized chilling system and insulation on the tank/glycol lines. Not to mention ambient temps.
How quickly a beer takes carb depends on how effectively you can chill it as well. A beer that is at 33-34f will take carb much faster than a beer at even 35-36f. Just check your carb chart and get your head pressure set right.
I would recommend doing things different than shown in the video nowadays if you don’t have a means of measuring carb (homebrewers don’t really have this convenience). I would just run 2-3 sets through the carb stone as shown in the video then just leave it at the pressure your carb chart recommends. If you’re packaging off the 1bbl for sale or in a way where you can’t adjust carb after it’s packaged then I would look into a Taprite brand carb checker to make sure you hit your targets. Otherwise you’d be chasing your tail a bit hoping to hit carb spec.
Sorry a bit long winded but there is a lot of info to cover. Let me know if you have any more questions!
Whats the internal diameter of the hose you connected to the carb stone?
Should be 5/16” ID, 9/16” OD. I just got a 25’ set of lines on Amazon and cut what I needed.
@@tybrewing9807 thanks a mill, just ordered 2 brite tanks 😍
Nice! I was just looking at those earlier today actually. Let me know what you think of the BBT’s!
Also let me know how carbonating goes on the BBT. The technique I showed in the video here is kind of niche and specific to quickly carbonating on the Uni. You should be able to just set it and forget it with the BBT rather than run bursts and purging like I showed in the video. I intend to make more videos to correct myself and expand upon this but haven’t had the time.
Feel free to reach out if you have any trouble!
@@tybrewing9807 appreciate it, thanks for the tips. Will definitely be watching for future videos. I'll let you know how carbing goes 👍
Hi! What type of tubing are you using for your co2 line? Is it 3/8" and PVC?
Hello! The type of lines I use for my co2 are the type here: a.co/d/3qkYHik
Just generic gas tubing. You can also use braided lines, etc. as well but they’re generally more expensive (they are nice to see if you’ve had backflips though).
I bought 25’ of this type and cut it down for my uses (kegerator lines, co2 for Unitank, etc.
Hope that helps!
@@tybrewing9807 Thanks! I see this is 5/16 tubing instead of 3/8, I've been looking for 3/8 but I've seen people recommend using a smaller size for the co2 lines to avoid leaks, does the 5/16 tubing fit well on the unitank's 3/8 barb valve?
Now that you mention it. I do have two separate barbs. I have a 3/8” for a blowoff hose as well as a 1/4” for my gas line. I think I just got one from my local home brew store because I was in a hurry at the time. It’s been a couple of years now so my memory isn’t as fresh.
My Request to your company to supply such Machinery to my place Bhubaneswar city in Odisha state in India
Hi!
To be honest I’m just a guy that makes beer in his basement. I do work at a brewery but everything I do on this channel is my own work, knowledge, etc (for better or for worse). Perhaps you could reach out to one of the big manufacturers to see if they can ship to your locale!