MASSIVE ! In archtops I prefer 16". But, the sound of that Guild is notable. Agreed about necks. I prefer 1 3/4 (MAS Minimum acceptable Standard) 1 13/16ths and 1 7/8ths . I quit playing dreadnaughts because of size however the Martin D-18S (S) slot head, 12 fret, slope shoulder is a perfect fit.
An interesting discussion to be sure, but the examples you demonstrate and talk about are primarily electric instruments. I would contend that it becomes a whole different conversation when you start talking about, say an unamplified Gibson Super 400 with an 18 inch lower bout versus a vintage Gibson L5 noncutaway with an a 16 inch bout. That is to say, how does the acoustic sound change when going from smaller to larger archtops? Regarding the nut width, hand size and whether or not you primarily(or exclusively) play fingerstyle versus with a pick begins to enter the picture. And then, one person’s ideal neck carve can be a total nonstarter for another person. I love The Loar LH-700 archtop, however, it is very common for other players to find that they could not get along with the thicker V shaped neck carve.
Never thought about the size issue from the perspective of electric versus acoustic. However, I do say that I started playing primarily on a dreadnought. My point is I do concede that size matters to playability primarily based on our physical stature but our perception of said limitations does impact this as well. Now clearly on an acoustic instrument the differences and potential affect of size on the player are greater and this is not about a discussion on sound only but really playability. And yes I agree something with a lower bout of 18 inches versus 16 inches versus a parlor etc...poses issues to many. The last point I want to make is that the video is about size potentially being too big to maneuver around...the opposite may also be true...the guitar may be too small to effectively play. Thank you again for watching.
MASSIVE ! In archtops I prefer 16". But, the sound of that Guild is notable.
Agreed about necks. I prefer 1 3/4 (MAS Minimum acceptable Standard) 1 13/16ths and 1 7/8ths .
I quit playing dreadnaughts because of size however the Martin D-18S (S) slot head, 12 fret, slope shoulder is a perfect fit.
It is not the size of the wand that matters but the wizard's ability to use it
An interesting discussion to be sure, but the examples you demonstrate and talk about are primarily electric instruments. I would contend that it becomes a whole different conversation when you start talking about, say an unamplified Gibson Super 400 with an 18 inch lower bout versus a vintage Gibson L5 noncutaway with an a 16 inch bout. That is to say, how does the acoustic sound change when going from smaller to larger archtops? Regarding the nut width, hand size and whether or not you primarily(or exclusively) play fingerstyle versus with a pick begins to enter the picture. And then, one person’s ideal neck carve can be a total nonstarter for another person. I love The Loar LH-700 archtop, however, it is very common for other players to find that they could not get along with the thicker V shaped neck carve.
Never thought about the size issue from the perspective of electric versus acoustic. However, I do say that I started playing primarily on a dreadnought. My point is I do concede that size matters to playability primarily based on our physical stature but our perception of said limitations does impact this as well. Now clearly on an acoustic instrument the differences and potential affect of size on the player are greater and this is not about a discussion on sound only but really playability. And yes I agree something with a lower bout of 18 inches versus 16 inches versus a parlor etc...poses issues to many. The last point I want to make is that the video is about size potentially being too big to maneuver around...the opposite may also be true...the guitar may be too small to effectively play. Thank you again for watching.