That was the 'family car' for the first 12 years of my life. A white one with gray interior. But it was called the 'Windsor' in Canada. I cried when my dad traded it in on a 1968 Chrysler Newport Custom.
You got a runner. I remember the 361 engine. I think they called them the Golden Commando. My brother and I would go down to the Plymouth dealer and take sales literature home and read the words right off the page. At that time, I had all the engine names memorized. Our Dad was a Plymouth man. Every other year he would buy a new Plymouth. I vaguely remember a 1957 Savoy, then 1959 Belvedere, 1961 Belvedere, a 1964 Belvedere, 1966 Fury wagon, and a 1969 Chrysler Newport Custom. I was born in 1954.
Hi Austin - The engine sounds great! You and that knife. Magic! Now, I wrote this when you got the car...maybe a Fred Flinstone driver 😂 but if anyone can bring this great Chrysler back on the road it would be you. 👍🏼 Thanks for your videos - love them!!
I noticed the tail light lenses are cracked and open on top. There are new reproduction lenses available on eBay, although they are about $200. Many of the switches in the dash can be removed and carefully opened up, contacts cleaned and put back together with the retaining tabs bent back down to hold all together. Even the starter relay under the hood can be done the same way. A light application of di-electric grease will help protect contacts and provide lubrication for sliding parts.
Thx for one more fantastic episode of "weekend breakfast TV" here in Northern Germany. Every time learning a little bit more about the cars and/or wonderful US landscape. All thumbs up 👍
I forgot to mention that the distributor counter weights should be checked for free movement. Their pivot points should be lubricated if movement of the weights is restricted and stiff. Also make sure the counterweight springs are OK.
That’s awesome Austin. Since that 62 is little more than a parts car, you can pull that 361 and put it in the 63 until you can get the original engine rebuilt. That way you can make that one a runner again.
@@douglasnieblas74 I actually have a few extra 361s kicking around. Problem is I don’t have any good indoor working space. I’m slowly working on trying to remedy that!
I always start motors that have not ran in a while with 2 stroke fuel ⛽️ help lube on start up .id run Lucas fuel ⛽️ additive 24/7 in that Mopar . Mopar old school for life . 👌🇦🇺✌️.
I'm curious about the '63 that nearly made it back home after a long drive (spun bearing?). These cars are beautiful automotive history lessons. Perhaps Chrysler learned from a bad air cleaner cover design that appears to have allowed moisture to get into the carburetor.
@@user-surly When I get some proper space cleared out I’ll see about pulling the engine. I have to do most work outside but obviously I want to do engine work inside!
A friend of mine had a complete '62 Imperial in his old car wrecking yard until last year when he suddenly sold the yard and the new owner crushed everything. it was sickening. i managed to save my '56 Savoy (277 V8 Sportone) from going to the crushers and i'm currently going through the engine
Just wondering if you checked to see if the charging system was working while it was running? It sounds really good. Here's hoping the rest of the work goes as smoothly as getting it running.
Mopar transmissions don't circulate fluid in park, if you put it in neutral it will circulate. That is why no fluid comes out of the unconnected lines when running in park.
This Torqueflite transmission does not have “park” and utilizes a brake drum on the back of the tailshaft. No fluid is coming out because it’s bone dry…
@@FarezAbdillahhanif Too many projects on hand! Normally getting a car going again is pretty straight forward… unless someone “worked” on the car. The engine had been removed and then sat back in the car prior to my ownership. Not sure why… Everything is disconnected. So it won’t be as easy to make running as an untouched car. Since everything is disconnected… now would be the time to go through the engine. I didn’t want to hook everything back up and then find out the engine is unusable. I may look into it more in the future.
We used to put a little grease behind the rubbing block of the points. I've seen a bunch of "modern" points installs and I see no one do that. Last points car I had was a 74 Merc Capri. If it was down on power or just a little "off". I'd run up to the parts store and put a set of points in. The 74 had the wide plastic bumpers and I not knowing set the feeler gauge down on the front bumper and closed the hood. I swear as I'm writing this I took a trip of 300 miles and they were still there when I got there. My uncle made a few bucks in radio time sales and he showed up one thanksgiving in a I think a brandy new 62 Imperial. He gave me a ride. It was an imperial not sure if it was a 62 or 63. Might have been a 61.
New points used to come with a small capsule of grease for the cam on the distributor. After all, the cam does rotate to lift the point contact for each cylinder. There is some friction at the strip of the moving contact where it touches the cam, so lubrication is needed there. Also there is usually a felt pad down in the center of the distributor shaft where the rotor is pushed on. Remove the rotor for access. The pad needs lubrication too, a few drops of 20-30W engine oil will serve well there.
I can hardly wait to see what you can do to get this car roadworthy again. I was looking at an old chrysler in very similar condition but couldn't find anyone that made reproduction floor pans for it so I passed on buying it.
@@PecanRanch but there is a 360 small block which does cause confusion believe it or not. But saying big block is just what one does. You gotta let everyone know you got the big boy.
That was the 'family car' for the first 12 years of my life. A white one with gray interior. But it was called the 'Windsor' in Canada. I cried when my dad traded it in on a 1968 Chrysler Newport Custom.
You got a runner. I remember the 361 engine. I think they called them the Golden Commando. My brother and I would go down to the Plymouth dealer and take sales literature home and read the words right off the page. At that time, I had all the engine names memorized. Our Dad was a Plymouth man. Every other year he would buy a new Plymouth. I vaguely remember a 1957 Savoy, then 1959 Belvedere, 1961 Belvedere, a 1964 Belvedere, 1966 Fury wagon, and a 1969 Chrysler Newport Custom. I was born in 1954.
I love seeing an old car come to life again. Sounds great. Good luck with making her a runner
that sounds amazingly good for being dormant for so long. Congratulations on a new daily driver...you'll be rockin some style
Hi Austin - The engine sounds great! You and that knife. Magic! Now, I wrote this when you got the car...maybe a Fred Flinstone driver 😂 but if anyone can bring this great Chrysler back on the road it would be you. 👍🏼 Thanks for your videos - love them!!
@@danielimpastato3466 The Swiss Army Knife. Practically the only tool you need! 😂
She runs sweet, Austin. Well done.
I noticed the tail light lenses are cracked and open on top. There are new reproduction lenses available on eBay, although they are about $200. Many of the switches in the dash can be removed and carefully opened up, contacts cleaned and put back together with the retaining tabs bent back down to hold all together. Even the starter relay under the hood can be done the same way. A light application of di-electric grease will help protect contacts and provide lubrication for sliding parts.
Thx for one more fantastic episode of "weekend breakfast TV" here in Northern Germany. Every time learning a little bit more about the cars and/or wonderful US landscape. All thumbs up 👍
@@olafthiemer5759 You’re welcome! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Handsome car! Chrysler's best after they ditched the great fins....
Sounds really good.
My first grade teacher owned one of those, black with white top and red interior,she was a mean old woman but that Chrysler was a beauty😂
Nice survivor car. See what a good buffing and penetrol does to the paint. Good luck and thanks for sharing.
from Italy...
You are the best!
@@andreabrenna1477 Thanks!
I forgot to mention that the distributor counter weights should be checked for free movement. Their pivot points should be lubricated if movement of the weights is restricted and stiff. Also make sure the counterweight springs are OK.
As far as the video ‘s content itself, “wonderful!” As far as all the damned commercials,”ENOUGH ALREADY!!”
That’s awesome Austin. Since that 62 is little more than a parts car, you can pull that 361 and put it in the 63 until you can get the original engine rebuilt. That way you can make that one a runner again.
@@douglasnieblas74 I actually have a few extra 361s kicking around. Problem is I don’t have any good indoor working space. I’m slowly working on trying to remedy that!
Very nice !!
I always start motors that have not ran in a while with 2 stroke fuel ⛽️ help lube on start up .id run Lucas fuel ⛽️ additive 24/7 in that Mopar . Mopar old school for life . 👌🇦🇺✌️.
Awesome !
I'm curious about the '63 that nearly made it back home after a long drive (spun bearing?).
These cars are beautiful automotive history lessons. Perhaps Chrysler learned from a bad air cleaner cover design that appears to have allowed moisture to get into the carburetor.
@@user-surly When I get some proper space cleared out I’ll see about pulling the engine. I have to do most work outside but obviously I want to do engine work inside!
SWEET!!!👍😊
A friend of mine had a complete '62 Imperial in his old car wrecking yard until last year when he suddenly sold the yard and the new owner crushed everything. it was sickening. i managed to save my '56 Savoy (277 V8 Sportone) from going to the crushers and i'm currently going through the engine
I wonder why your friend didn't offer the Imperial to you first.
Just wondering if you checked to see if the charging system was working while it was running? It sounds really good. Here's hoping the rest of the work goes as smoothly as getting it running.
Mopar transmissions don't circulate fluid in park, if you put it in neutral it will circulate. That is why no fluid comes out of the unconnected lines when running in park.
This Torqueflite transmission does not have “park” and utilizes a brake drum on the back of the tailshaft. No fluid is coming out because it’s bone dry…
Hey austin why dont you make the 61 chrsler newport highlander into a runner?
@@FarezAbdillahhanif Too many projects on hand! Normally getting a car going again is pretty straight forward… unless someone “worked” on the car. The engine had been removed and then sat back in the car prior to my ownership. Not sure why… Everything is disconnected. So it won’t be as easy to make running as an untouched car. Since everything is disconnected… now would be the time to go through the engine. I didn’t want to hook everything back up and then find out the engine is unusable. I may look into it more in the future.
Oh i sorry to hear that but atleast the 61 highlander is in good condition although the engine is remove
We used to put a little grease behind the rubbing block of the points. I've seen a bunch of "modern" points installs and I see no one do that. Last points car I had was a 74 Merc Capri. If it was down on power or just a little "off". I'd run up to the parts store and put a set of points in. The 74 had the wide plastic bumpers and I not knowing set the feeler gauge down on the front bumper and closed the hood. I swear as I'm writing this I took a trip of 300 miles and they were still there when I got there. My uncle made a few bucks in radio time sales and he showed up one thanksgiving in a I think a brandy new 62 Imperial. He gave me a ride. It was an imperial not sure if it was a 62 or 63. Might have been a 61.
New points used to come with a small capsule of grease for the cam on the distributor. After all, the cam does rotate to lift the point contact for each cylinder. There is some friction at the strip of the moving contact where it touches the cam, so lubrication is needed there. Also there is usually a felt pad down in the center of the distributor shaft where the rotor is pushed on. Remove the rotor for access. The pad needs lubrication too, a few drops of 20-30W engine oil will serve well there.
@@joes3485 I don't recall oiling the felt pad but I remember it.
I can hardly wait to see what you can do to get this car roadworthy again. I was looking at an old chrysler in very similar condition but couldn't find anyone that made reproduction floor pans for it so I passed on buying it.
@@dans8287 You generally have to find good original metal for these cars or just make something yourself.
How much can those 361's be bored ? Do they have enough meat to be bored to a 383 ?
B blocks 350 361 and 383. 4.030 bore 3.3 stroke equals 383 for B blocks. RB blocks start at 383 up to 440 have 3.75 stroke all of them.
🤩😎
It’s redundant to say 361 big block, since there is no 361 small block.
@@PecanRanch but there is a 360 small block which does cause confusion believe it or not. But saying big block is just what one does. You gotta let everyone know you got the big boy.
kill the headlights n put it in neutral