Nicely done. Those balsa parts can be a pain in the rear to get out sometimes so the ones that are stubborn I usually sand the back of the template with a sanding block and they pop out a bit easier. I just built the arrow not long back and was stoked about how well it flew.
Absolutely yes! The Simpler and not as pretty Javelin is actually the better flier of the two. Not the case for most of the Guillows "scale" low wing monoplanes, which need extraordinary care in building, trimming and launching just to achieve a precarious flight! I built several Javelins when I was a child, and all were good fliers. BUT one thing I deviated from the instructions, was that I avoided to install more than one single loop of slack rubber, as mpre than one tended to produce a too strong burst of brief power, either twisting the flight or risking the fuselage! Instead, I used a slightly thinner rubber and that resulted in a slower turning propeller, that didn't overpower the light model and the power lasted much more time. Certainly not the usual way most rubber powered models are flown, but it resulted in flatter and longer flights that didn't catch a powerful thermal, thus not requiring any dethermalizer!
All the above, I'm always trying to push the limits of my skills and this was the perfect project to test that idea. This allows the model to become more in the future for years of fun.
@@BenMO Good idea by Lionel Smith, But even better: Do your best to keep the building surface AS FLAT AS POSSIBLE!... After years of building all types and sizes of flying models, my approach is to avoid as much as possible that easy (but not best) practice of building on a soft surface that accepts pins... BECAUSE that kind of surface is not perfectly flat, and tends to induce warps to the structures built on it... Instead, try to find reasonably flat surface, like a bench or table top, and then get a flat and not too thin, large piece of glass, preferably 5 or 6 mm thick (say, 1/4" thick) or more. This glass can be left perfectly flat and straight by using small shims of cardboard and the use of a metal straight edge. The best glass is Not "tempered" glass, but "floated" glass, as tempered is usually somewhat wavy. Then you can either slightly adhere your plans to the top surface of the glass with a glue stick and then cover with plastic wrap. OR a better way that needs some practice, putting the plans UNDER the glass; but you need to learn to "read" in a vertical alignment, to avoid parallax errors. One trick is to use a small lantern to shine your face so that you see your eye reflection on the glass, guaranteeing your eye is exactly at 90 Degrees above the line on the plans and your balsawood piece is exactly aligned on the plans (even when the plans are under the thick glass). You can either cover the glass with plastic wrap, or simply use a VERY SMALL "micro drop" of Cyano glue to temporarily fix the wood parts to the glass, instead of using pins! Later on, when a structure like a complete fuselage side or wing section is finished, you simply slide a thin old type razor blade under it to carefully separate the built up section from the glass. That same razor blade easily removes all traces of glue from the glass, and if placing the plans under the glass, those will be preserved from being cut, or full of glue drops. Best luck.
I prefer to cut, dry fit, then glue each section at a time using pins to hold everything in place. I use water in a small spray bottle for shrinking tissue.
@@BenMO I have three questions, would appreciate if you could answer. What ratio of water to white glue do you use? And what do you use to shrink the tissue after it's been glued? And finally what do you coat the tissue with after it is shrunk and on the frame?
The metal rod for the landing gear is included with the kit. I purchased extra rods in multiple sizes for future builds. The reason for a rudder was to experiment with flight control and or a DT timer.
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![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
I had this and the Lancer, 2 best flying models I built in the 70's. love to do these again.
Nicely done. Those balsa parts can be a pain in the rear to get out sometimes so the ones that are stubborn I usually sand the back of the template with a sanding block and they pop out a bit easier. I just built the arrow not long back and was stoked about how well it flew.
I just bought this kit and you've given me the inspiration to build it. Thank you!
That means so much too me, and thank YOU for the support.
Same for me! What glue did you use?
Great build man have you ever thought about using a glue stick put on tissue it works great 👍
Thank you, this is awesome 🤘
her sister the javelin, is also a great kit to build and fly. i got mine to fly for about 45 seconds.
Absolutely yes! The Simpler and not as pretty Javelin is actually the better flier of the two. Not the case for most of the Guillows "scale" low wing monoplanes, which need extraordinary care in building, trimming and launching just to achieve a precarious flight!
I built several Javelins when I was a child, and all were good fliers. BUT one thing I deviated from the instructions, was that I avoided to install more than one single loop of slack rubber, as mpre than one tended to produce a too strong burst of brief power, either twisting the flight or risking the fuselage! Instead, I used a slightly thinner rubber and that resulted in a slower turning propeller, that didn't overpower the light model and the power lasted much more time. Certainly not the usual way most rubber powered models are flown, but it resulted in flatter and longer flights that didn't catch a powerful thermal, thus not requiring any dethermalizer!
No wax paper between buildup and plan to prevent glue from sticking to plan?
if you read Don Ross books, you can unlock the magic these planes have. You will be dumbfounded by their performance.
Thank you for the info. I've been building these for yrs and always looking for build advice
tell me about template paper size(A1,A2,A3)
I don't get the rudder hinge? Was it for trim? I did not see any RC stuff.
All the above, I'm always trying to push the limits of my skills and this was the perfect project to test that idea. This allows the model to become more in the future for years of fun.
Like the Voice Over!
Thank you
You need to cover the plan with plastic or wax wrap to stop the glue sticking to it.
Good idea, I will try that.
@@BenMO Good idea by Lionel Smith, But even better: Do your best to keep the building surface AS FLAT AS POSSIBLE!... After years of building all types and sizes of flying models, my approach is to avoid as much as possible that easy (but not best) practice of building on a soft surface that accepts pins... BECAUSE that kind of surface is not perfectly flat, and tends to induce warps to the structures built on it...
Instead, try to find reasonably flat surface, like a bench or table top, and then get a flat and not too thin, large piece of glass, preferably 5 or 6 mm thick (say, 1/4" thick) or more.
This glass can be left perfectly flat and straight by using small shims of cardboard and the use of a metal straight edge.
The best glass is Not "tempered" glass, but "floated" glass, as tempered is usually somewhat wavy. Then you can either slightly adhere your plans to the top surface of the glass with a glue stick and then cover with plastic wrap. OR a better way that needs some practice, putting the plans UNDER the glass; but you need to learn to "read" in a vertical alignment, to avoid parallax errors. One trick is to use a small lantern to shine your face so that you see your eye reflection on the glass, guaranteeing your eye is exactly at 90 Degrees above the line on the plans and your balsawood piece is exactly aligned on the plans (even when the plans are under the thick glass). You can either cover the glass with plastic wrap, or simply use a VERY SMALL "micro drop" of Cyano glue to temporarily fix the wood parts to the glass, instead of using pins! Later on, when a structure like a complete fuselage side or wing section is finished, you simply slide a thin old type razor blade under it to carefully separate the built up section from the glass. That same razor blade easily removes all traces of glue from the glass, and if placing the plans under the glass, those will be preserved from being cut, or full of glue drops.
Best luck.
I'm building my first plane in 50 years. Do you prefer to dry fit or glue as you go? What is your method to shrink the tissue?
I prefer to cut, dry fit, then glue each section at a time using pins to hold everything in place. I use water in a small spray bottle for shrinking tissue.
You can make your own dope mixing Elmer’s paper glue and water. But like Ben said plain water works and is lighter
What do you glue the paper on with?
I use a mixture of water & white Elmers glue applied with a brush.
@@BenMO I have three questions, would appreciate if you could answer. What ratio of water to white glue do you use? And what do you use to shrink the tissue after it's been glued? And finally what do you coat the tissue with after it is shrunk and on the frame?
Nice build. Do the metal parts at 10:35 and the landing gear have to be purchased separately?
The metal rod for the landing gear is included with the kit. I purchased extra rods in multiple sizes for future builds. The reason for a rudder was to experiment with flight control and or a DT timer.
@@BenMO Thank you.