Just updated my dust collector system. Added a Wynn Environmental cartridge filter instead of the bag on my Steel City dust collector. I also added a 6" cyclone from Oneida. Tried using a remote and didn't care for it. Saw this video and was hooked. System works great. Love just pulling the blast gate and on comes the DC. Thanks Frank
i just wanted to let you know that this was a very good video. you present your ideas very elegantly and they almost appear intuitive yet there is a lot of subtle details that you transmit that has got to come from your very apparent experience level which is delightful to watch. if you are thinking about making more videos, please do. once again i find the presentation excellent and it's a great resource. i will sub!
Hey there. I finally figured it out. Had an electrician come out and it was my relay. I had bought a 2nd one and it was faulty. Stuck open. Ended up with Schneider relay. Mechanical so no overheating issues. Thanks again for a great video. Love my vac now.
I am using a 1500 MFD capacitor for a 15 second delay. Have also added a 47 ohm resistor in series with capacitor to reduce the discharge current through switch.
Great question. No problem splicing switches together I have 7 4 inch gates and 4 2.5 inch gates and many are spliced together. Make sure to splice in parallel not series. More than one gate can be opened at a time it will reduce air flow for each of course but no other issues. Loved the question of delay shutoff and will be modifying my system for a delay. The delay is simple add a capacitor across the switch circuit, the size of capacitor will determine the delay time. This will also cause the system to turn on for the delay time when turning the controler on. Thanks for a great question.
Just tried out a couple of capacitors for the shutoff delay. My system is 24 volts so you will get different results depending on your control voltage. For an 1100 MFD cap 8 second delay for a 5500MFD cap 1.5 minute delay.
I never counted the times I had this together and opened up and check and seal up and try but has been many. Have checked the wires many times with your video and it dont works. Tested with light just like you did and even plugged it in wall and light works but cant get it to light up in the outlet box. think maybe relay could be bad? Thanks again, Wayne
Do you see any reason that this relay would not work?? www.ebay.com/itm/ASH-3-DA4840-Three-Phase-Solid-State-Relay-Module-DC-AC-3-32VDCto480VAC40A-Kd-/284147209897
Question about the switch. Why is the switch needed? Just so that you can shut it off so the relay does not over heat? I bought the relay and it came with a heat sink device but there is no way that device will fit in the deep electrical box. If someone has to remember to go to the dust collector to shut off the switch for the relay or even put the switch somewhere close to where you work, then I am not getting the idea of automating the DC to come on by opening a blast gate. I mean I get the convenience of any blast gate opening would turn on the dust collector and shut it off, but then we have to remember to flip that switch. I am not liking that option because then it would be easy to forget to turn it off. I have a remote for my DC and after watching several other videos on doing what you have done, and after wiring everything to make this blast gate automation, I am now stuck with the idea of having to remember to turn off a switch for something you cannot see or hear running. I was thinking why couldn't I have use an alexa enabled switch instead of the one I bought. That way maybe I could out some automation in place that says if the switch is on for a certain period of time, turn off the switch or send me an alert that it is on for say 30 minutes or an hour. Thoughts?
Forgot to mention the specs. These are the micro swithches. It's all connected to 110V. "URBEST AC 250V 5A SPDT 1NO 1NC Momentary Hinge Roller Lever Micro Switches 3 Pins". My dust collector is a 110V Jet 1 1/2 HP.
Another question for you if you dont mind. Does the wire on micro switch need to be wired individually to terminal bar or can they be wired in micro switch to micro switch? I have 16 blast gates to install. Thanks in advance.
Yes they can be wired switch to switch. As long they are wired in parallel so that any switch will complete the circuit. If you have a long wire run you may need a heavier gauge wire and a higher voltage for control circuit to account for voltage drop on a long run.
Good video. Think I'm doing it. I looked on amazon and did you get a Heat Sink for Thermostat Temperature Controller with your relay switch? Is it needed? Thanks very much.
@@frankorlowicz7002 I saw on amazon the relay came with one and didnt recall seeing one on your video and thought maybe it was jid. Thanks for the reply and your video. Have a good weekend
@@frankorlowicz7002 I didn't see any Ground Wires hooked up to the Green Screws on either the Outlet or the Switch. How then are these Grounded. It not Code to expect they are grounded through the Box and the Outlet/Switch Cases!
Your information if fantastic. I have started putting your system and ideas together. I have everything ready to assemble but I just can't find the microswitches. Could you please tell me where I could order them. Thanks again.
You can find switches on Amazon. Look for "micro switches" any single pole double throw will work. Those with a long lever or roller are easiest to install. These should work fine. Cylewet 6Pcs V-153-1C25 Micro Limit Switch Long Straight Hinge Lever Arm SPDT Snap Action LOT for Arduino (Pack of 6) CYT1068 $5.99.
The automac gate valve was a challenge. Found the gearbox and motor at a surplus store. Had most of the other parts in my shop. Current sensing circuit turns on relay that operates motor limit switch stops it in the opened position. Turn off saw current sensing switches relay energizing motor limit switch stops it in closed position. The only reason I built this is because it was a challenge by a friend. If you put the gate valves in convient places there is no need for automatic gate. I would not build another one.
Do I need the switch? I would have micro switches at each blast gate and don't understand why I couldn't just have the dust collector plugged into the top and the low voltage with micro switches plugged in to the bottom? Thank you for the video. Top shelf.
Where does the white wire with the green, white, black wires connect? What size is the white thick wire. I am not electrical at all. Need specifics if you can JPV
Ok. First the power cord wire needs to be sized big enough for your blower. Check specks should tell you size for extension cord. Green wire is ground needs to connect to ground on receptacle. White wire connects to neutral side of receptacle. You may want to get help from a friend with a little more knowledge of electrical.
Love the explanation. I am jumping into wiring this same system up very soon. I just have a few questions, if you don't mind. Is there any negatives to splicing the switches and having two blast gates open at the same time? Is there any module/component that can be added to make the DC run 5 - 10 seconds longer after switching off?
If you don't find the delay, not to sound like a wise ass but the simple solution (i'm guessing you want the pipes clear of dust) would be to just wait to close the blast gate a few seconds. I can see not wanting to stand there waiting too though.
I like the concept. Built it identical to the one in your video then dismantled and reassembled it about twenty times. Just can't get it to cooperate. When I flip the switch on the box it turns the dust collector on and off, and the micro switch on the blast gate has no effect. Any thoughts?
Relay vs Contactor? Sir, I'm working up a similar system but was thinking about using a two pole contactor instead of a relay to switch the blower. Just was wondering how well that solid state relay was holding up for you? I note from your comment below that you have upped the voltage on your control circuit, and would be interested in a video about how you set up the delay circuit. Your blast gates look very nicely made and I really like your "remote control" system for the band saw. Cheers,
A mechanical relay will work fine. My first system used one but had a second relay with a low voltage coil to control the larger relay for the blower. I have had great secces with the solid state relay these are the standard for industry now. I used 24 volts for my control circuit. Depending on your control wire and length you can have a voltage drop so you should use more than the minimum voltage for the control. I also use the 24 volts for an automatic blast gate. The time delay is simple. Just connect a capicitor across the control switch. When the switch is opened to shut off the blower the capicitor will charge through through relay when capicitor is fully charged no more current flow blower will shut off. I also added a resistor to the capicator so the switch does not get short circuit current from capicator. This will also cause blower to run for delay time on energizing system. Size of capicitor determines delay time. Hope that helps.
@@frankorlowicz7002 Thanks for the response. I think I'm going to use the contactor for no good reason except that I have one, NOS, along with the 24vac transformer it requires already in the junk bin. Easy enough to switch out for a solid state relay later if it doesn't all work the way I want. Enjoy your time in the shop. Cheers
one more question.... I saw on someone else's video that they used the same brand of relay but there's was a SSR-25 and your's is a SSR-40. What do those numbers represent? ... the amperage of the 110 v perhaps???? My dust collector is 1 HP / 15 amps.
@@frankorlowicz7002 Thanks Frank, I appreciate your speedy reply. I did follow your instructions to the letter, so the load and line are correct. I'm sure its just a faulty relay. Cheers!
Hey Frank, I've been using my system for about a year now and for about six months every gate worked perfectly. For the 2nd time now, I'm having issues with the micro switches. When they are closed the vacuum either stays on continuously or turns off momentarily then back on again. I've checked the continuity with my meter and they all check out (4 of them). I replaced one a few months back for the same issue. Could it be I just got cheapo micro switches? Got em on Amazon and the reviews for them are really good. Any thoughts are much appreciated. If yours are working well, could you tell me the brand and/or where you got them. Thanks
I would check that when the gate is closed the switch ic open. It could be the positioning of the switch. My second guess is an issue with the wireing. I had some wireing issues with mine when first installed. Could also be your power supply.
@@frankorlowicz7002 I just checked the continuity and all 4 micro switches stay powered on whether opened or closed. In other words, they aren't turning off. This has been my problem. I checked the continuity with some new micro switches i have and they work. I don't know why the ones I've installed aren't lasting.
I do not understand your question. The relay will handle 30 amps for the dust collector. My 1hp dust collector draws about 15 amps. You can buy relays of different capacities but I got this one for $10. Don't know what you mean by tool side. This circuit only controls the blower.
Hi Frank, I don't know much about this type of electrical work so can you explain a little better on how to add the Capacitors and resistors. I feel comfortable with all the other stuff on the video and ordered my parts today from Amazon. Can you send or post a wiring diagram for the capacitors, please? I'm running a 110 v HF motor, AC 125V 5A SPDT 3 Pin Momentary Hinge Roller Lever Micro Limit Mini Switches, a 12v power adapter and the SSR-40DA 40A Solid State Relay Input 3-32V DC Output 24-380V AC (SSR-40 DA).
Sorry could not figure out how to include photo in comment. Capicator and resistor are connected in series and than connected just as you would connect a switch. Switches and capicitor are all connected in parallel. Make sure capacitor is correct for your control voltage voltage and polarity correctly connected. When system is energized it will run for the delay time. Capacitor charges when all switches are open (this energizes relay until capacitor is charged). Closing switch discharges capacitor through resistors and energizes relay. Opening switch will cause capacitor to charge keeping relay energized untill it is charged. Size of capacitor and resistor will determine the delay time.
No but yes. What i mean the same circuit but you will need two relays (one for each hot leg) you may be able to find a 2 pole relay for 220 volts . I did find a 3 phase relay that would work on a 220 volt circuit.
Woodworkers do things like this so we don't have to walk over to the dust collector and turn it on every time we want to use it, then walk back and turn it off after we're done.
I must be completely stupid as with TWO new relays it is still not working. I think it is wired exactly the same as what you show in your videos. I've also tried reversing the wires and still no luck Black wire from power in is going to terminal 2, blk wire from the load is going to terminal 1. positive from the 9 volt source is going to 3 with the negative side (bypassing the switch just for test purposes) goes to terminal 4. I have a LED light bulb plugged into a receptacle that is the load. I have checked both the incoming voltages from the 9v and the 110v and they are good. When I connect both the leads from the 9 volt source......the red relay light comes on but the plugged in LED does not. Then I turn off the switch that is on the LED light and turn it back on again....then the light goes on! .... then I disconnect one the 9 volt leads to the relay.... the LED goes off ....then I once again reconnect the 9 volt lead and the light does not go on again. ????? I tried using my planer instead of the LED and the planer did basically the same thing..... once the relay was energized, no go from the planer. I had to turn off the planers switch and turn it back on again and then it would fire up ONLY FOR ABOUT ONE SECOND The original and second relays were identical to the one in your video. The 3rd one I bought had better reviews on amazon so i thought I'd try it. It was a Berme BEM14840 DA. Same results!!!! If you would like to email me ....michaelsphoto@shaw.ca Thanks again for your help Michael
Wow. I will dig out my relay and check a couple of things. First did you try reversing line 1 and 2? Also an led bulb may not give a good load for the relay. But realy this one stumps me. I have connected two of these with no problems. Will do some testing and let you know what i find.
Did some checking led makes no difference. At this point my only guess is the control voltage. You said you are using a 9v battery. Check battery, also check voltave at relay while energized. Don't know what else to suggest. Circuit is so simple i dont know what else could be wrong. Odds near zero that all 3 relays are bad.
Reread your message and you did not say a 9v battery you said 9v source. This could be your problem. Try a 9 volt battery. Control needs to be DC although your source reads 9v on a meeter it may not be giving good DC voltage and there is a small current drain also if supply cannot supply enough current that may explain the problem.
@@frankorlowicz7002 thanks, ........... Yes,I am using a 9 volt power supply...which showed 9 volts on the multimeter, but I will try a 9volt battery. Stay tuned!
Frank, you need to take a bow! You are one SMART guy!!! You were right.... although I had a full 9 volts DC showing on the meter with the AC to 9 Volt adapter....when I tried using a 9 volt battery it worked. Again, MANY thanks for your help!! And while we're at it, I might as well bug you with one more question. The heat sink gadget that came with the relay???? Not needed? And if I was to use it, I saw some comments elsewhere about thermal grease? or some kind of compound that goes in between? Do you know what that is about?
Frank, thanks for making this video. I have a 220V 3HP jet DC. Could you demonstrate in another video how to set this up for 220? I know this is a large request but looking at your other video and reading your comments pertaining to this one it’s obvious you know what you’re doing... unlike me. Thanks in advance.
Sorry do not have parts to make video. But you will need 2 relays. Connect control circuit in series. Control voltage will be 6 volt minimum I suggest 24 volts. Connect one hot leg to each relay and one load leg to each relay. This should work fine. Make sure control is dc and proper polarity.
@@frankorlowicz7002 Frank, Do you recommend two of the SSR-25 AA solid state relays or are there other ones I should pick up to better suit my 220v needs? Thanks again for your help.
If you can find a 2 pole relay that can handle the current for your blower that would work also. I did not see one in the same price range as the single pole.
@@frankorlowicz7002 Hi Frank, thanks for making this detailed video. I am thinking to do the same thing with 220v and two relays. My question is in this reply above you said to connect the Control Circuit in Series, however in a reply from 11 mos ago, you stated to "connect low voltage control in parallel". Can you confirm? Sorry of I'm misunderstanding.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Just updated my dust collector system. Added a Wynn Environmental cartridge filter instead of the bag on my Steel City dust collector. I also added a 6" cyclone from Oneida. Tried using a remote and didn't care for it. Saw this video and was hooked. System works great. Love just pulling the blast gate and on comes the DC. Thanks Frank
Found your video from Jay bates. Good quality video. Good info. Just subscribed. Surprised you don't have more subscribers.
Probably doesn't have many because he doesn't put out many videos, this one was over 2 years ago and last one was over a year ago.
i just wanted to let you know that this was a very good video. you present your ideas very elegantly and they almost appear intuitive yet there is a lot of subtle details that you transmit that has got to come from your very apparent experience level which is delightful to watch. if you are thinking about making more videos, please do. once again i find the presentation excellent and it's a great resource. i will sub!
Hey there. I finally figured it out. Had an electrician come out and it was my relay. I had bought a 2nd one and it was faulty. Stuck open. Ended up with Schneider relay. Mechanical so no overheating issues. Thanks again for a great video. Love my vac now.
I am using a 1500 MFD capacitor for a 15 second delay. Have also added a 47 ohm resistor in series with capacitor to reduce the discharge current through switch.
Great question. No problem splicing switches together I have 7 4 inch gates and 4 2.5 inch gates and many are spliced together. Make sure to splice in parallel not series. More than one gate can be opened at a time it will reduce air flow for each of course but no other issues. Loved the question of delay shutoff and will be modifying my system for a delay. The delay is simple add a capacitor across the switch circuit, the size of capacitor will determine the delay time. This will also cause the system to turn on for the delay time when turning the controler on. Thanks for a great question.
Just tried out a couple of capacitors for the shutoff delay. My system is 24 volts so you will get different results depending on your control voltage. For an 1100 MFD cap 8 second delay for a 5500MFD cap 1.5 minute delay.
I never counted the times I had this together and opened up and check and seal up and try but has been many. Have checked the wires many times with your video and it dont works. Tested with light just like you did and even plugged it in wall and light works but cant get it to light up in the outlet box. think maybe relay could be bad? Thanks again, Wayne
Awesome. Finishing up my shop dust collector, was wondering why kind setup was necessary to add the microswitches. This is PERFECT. Thanks.
Make sure to observe polarity of capacitor for shutoff delay.
For a 220 volt circuit 2 relays can be used. Connect low voltage control in parallel and connect one realy to each hot leg of line voltage.
Any chance I could get a 220 drawing? Thanks
Do you see any reason that this relay would not work?? www.ebay.com/itm/ASH-3-DA4840-Three-Phase-Solid-State-Relay-Module-DC-AC-3-32VDCto480VAC40A-Kd-/284147209897
That should work perfectly.
Question about the switch. Why is the switch needed? Just so that you can shut it off so the relay does not over heat? I bought the relay and it came with a heat sink device but there is no way that device will fit in the deep electrical box. If someone has to remember to go to the dust collector to shut off the switch for the relay or even put the switch somewhere close to where you work, then I am not getting the idea of automating the DC to come on by opening a blast gate. I mean I get the convenience of any blast gate opening would turn on the dust collector and shut it off, but then we have to remember to flip that switch. I am not liking that option because then it would be easy to forget to turn it off. I have a remote for my DC and after watching several other videos on doing what you have done, and after wiring everything to make this blast gate automation, I am now stuck with the idea of having to remember to turn off a switch for something you cannot see or hear running. I was thinking why couldn't I have use an alexa enabled switch instead of the one I bought. That way maybe I could out some automation in place that says if the switch is on for a certain period of time, turn off the switch or send me an alert that it is on for say 30 minutes or an hour. Thoughts?
Switch is not necessary. It is only there to to turn off power to the low voltage dc power supply to save electricity.
Brilliant. Thanks Frank for posting this. I just put one together using your instructions. Will be installing it on all blast gates next.
Forgot to mention the specs. These are the micro swithches. It's all connected to 110V. "URBEST AC 250V 5A SPDT 1NO 1NC Momentary Hinge Roller Lever Micro Switches 3 Pins". My dust collector is a 110V Jet 1 1/2 HP.
Excellent information. Can't wait to try this.
p.s. I forgot to mention the obvious that, Yes , the white wires from load out and line in are connected directly to each other.
Frank thanks for the info, I'll use your ideas! I alway wonder how a Micro switch was wired up.
Another question for you if you dont mind. Does the wire on micro switch need to be wired individually to terminal bar or can they be wired in micro switch to micro switch? I have 16 blast gates to install. Thanks in advance.
Yes they can be wired switch to switch. As long they are wired in parallel so that any switch will complete the circuit. If you have a long wire run you may need a heavier gauge wire and a higher voltage for control circuit to account for voltage drop on a long run.
At the 2 terminals at the top of the relay (No.s 1 and 2 AC side) just over 1 volt. maybe 1.1V.
What is the voltage going to the micro switches?
I think you may have a very dangerous problem you should unplug control and you may need to have someone with knowledge of electricity look at it.
@@frankorlowicz7002 .115V so not even 1 volt
I'll do that. Sorry for all of the questions. Thanks for trying.
If you find out what is wrong could you please let me know. Thanks.
Good video. Think I'm doing it. I looked on amazon and did you get a Heat Sink for Thermostat Temperature Controller with your relay switch? Is it needed? Thanks very much.
Not sure what video you watched but it was not this one. No temp control here.
@@frankorlowicz7002 I saw on amazon the relay came with one and didnt recall seeing one on your video and thought maybe it was jid. Thanks for the reply and your video. Have a good weekend
Nice idea, but you have to review how you wired the box up. you should have hooked up the GROUND Wires inside the box, not good thinking.
If you watch the video the ground was clearly connected to the back of the box. I guess i should have pointed that out in more detail..
@@frankorlowicz7002 That doesn't help when things are plugged into the Outlets!
@@Chefm4477 outlet is grounded.
@@frankorlowicz7002 I didn't see any Ground Wires hooked up to the Green Screws on either the Outlet or the Switch. How then are these Grounded. It not Code to expect they are grounded through the Box and the Outlet/Switch Cases!
This is exactly what I wanted to do. GREAT VIDEO!!
I wired it up the way your video shows, the blower will turn on, but it will not shut off when i turn the limit switch off. What did i get wrong??
Check your switch or look for a short in the control circuit.
Your information if fantastic. I have started putting your system and ideas together. I have everything ready to assemble but I just can't find the microswitches. Could you please tell me where I could order them. Thanks again.
You can find switches on Amazon. Look for "micro switches" any single pole double throw will work. Those with a long lever or roller are easiest to install. These should work fine.
Cylewet 6Pcs V-153-1C25 Micro Limit Switch Long Straight Hinge Lever Arm SPDT Snap Action LOT for Arduino (Pack of 6) CYT1068
$5.99.
How did you make the automatic gate value? Thanks for the clear video.
The automac gate valve was a challenge. Found the gearbox and motor at a surplus store. Had most of the other parts in my shop. Current sensing circuit turns on relay that operates motor limit switch stops it in the opened position. Turn off saw current sensing switches relay energizing motor limit switch stops it in closed position. The only reason I built this is because it was a challenge by a friend. If you put the gate valves in convient places there is no need for automatic gate. I would not build another one.
Do I need the switch? I would have micro switches at each blast gate and don't understand why I couldn't just have the dust collector plugged into the top and the low voltage with micro switches plugged in to the bottom? Thank you for the video. Top shelf.
Yes you can. The power switch turns off power so the transformer is not energized and no chance the blower will start unexpectedly.
@@frankorlowicz7002
I like the way you think! I'm gonna add the switch. Great video and thanks much for the crazy fast response!
Where does the white wire with the green, white, black wires connect? What size is the white thick wire. I am not electrical at all. Need specifics if you can
JPV
Ok. First the power cord wire needs to be sized big enough for your blower. Check specks should tell you size for extension cord. Green wire is ground needs to connect to ground on receptacle. White wire connects to neutral side of receptacle. You may want to get help from a friend with a little more knowledge of electrical.
@@frankorlowicz7002 Thanks
Love the explanation. I am jumping into wiring this same system up very soon. I just have a few questions, if you don't mind. Is there any negatives to splicing the switches and having two blast gates open at the same time? Is there any module/component that can be added to make the DC run 5 - 10 seconds longer after switching off?
If you don't find the delay, not to sound like a wise ass but the simple solution (i'm guessing you want the pipes clear of dust) would be to just wait to close the blast gate a few seconds. I can see not wanting to stand there waiting too though.
Great idea, thanks
I like the concept. Built it identical to the one in your video then dismantled and reassembled it about twenty times. Just can't get it to cooperate. When I flip the switch on the box it turns the dust collector on and off, and the micro switch on the blast gate has no effect. Any thoughts?
Try and disconnect control from relay. Control circuit may be shorted somewhere.
Relay vs Contactor?
Sir,
I'm working up a similar system but was thinking about using a two pole contactor instead of a relay to switch the blower. Just was wondering how well that solid state relay was holding up for you?
I note from your comment below that you have upped the voltage on your control circuit, and would be interested in a video about how you set up the delay circuit.
Your blast gates look very nicely made and I really like your "remote control" system for the band saw.
Cheers,
A mechanical relay will work fine. My first system used one but had a second relay with a low voltage coil to control the larger relay for the blower. I have had great secces with the solid state relay these are the standard for industry now. I used 24 volts for my control circuit. Depending on your control wire and length you can have a voltage drop so you should use more than the minimum voltage for the control. I also use the 24 volts for an automatic blast gate. The time delay is simple. Just connect a capicitor across the control switch. When the switch is opened to shut off the blower the capicitor will charge through through relay when capicitor is fully charged no more current flow blower will shut off. I also added a resistor to the capicator so the switch does not get short circuit current from capicator. This will also cause blower to run for delay time on energizing system. Size of capicitor determines delay time. Hope that helps.
@@frankorlowicz7002 Thanks for the response. I think I'm going to use the contactor for no good reason except that I have one, NOS, along with the 24vac transformer it requires already in the junk bin. Easy enough to switch out for a solid state relay later if it doesn't all work the way I want.
Enjoy your time in the shop. Cheers
one more question.... I saw on someone else's video that they used the same brand of relay but there's was a SSR-25 and your's is a SSR-40. What do those numbers represent? ... the amperage of the 110 v perhaps???? My dust collector is 1 HP / 15 amps.
The number is the amp rating 40 amps or 25 amps.
One more thing check if "line" and "load" are connected correctly. If these are reversed it may be your problem.
@@frankorlowicz7002 Thanks Frank, I appreciate your speedy reply. I did follow your instructions to the letter, so the load and line are correct. I'm sure its just a faulty relay. Cheers!
Hey Frank, I've been using my system for about a year now and for about six months every gate worked perfectly. For the 2nd time now, I'm having issues with the micro switches. When they are closed the vacuum either stays on continuously or turns off momentarily then back on again. I've checked the continuity with my meter and they all check out (4 of them). I replaced one a few months back for the same issue. Could it be I just got cheapo micro switches? Got em on Amazon and the reviews for them are really good. Any thoughts are much appreciated. If yours are working well, could you tell me the brand and/or where you got them. Thanks
I would check that when the gate is closed the switch ic open. It could be the positioning of the switch. My second guess is an issue with the wireing. I had some wireing issues with mine when first installed. Could also be your power supply.
Got my switches at a surpluses store they are all different. The switches you have are almost certainly not the problem.
@@frankorlowicz7002 Thank you. I'll keep at it.
When I check the receptacle there is power to both sides when the switch is turned on. No power to either side with switch turned off.
Can't tell from your description. How did you check for power and what do you mean by turn on the switch?
@@frankorlowicz7002 I just checked the continuity and all 4 micro switches stay powered on whether opened or closed. In other words, they aren't turning off. This has been my problem. I checked the continuity with some new micro switches i have and they work. I don't know why the ones I've installed aren't lasting.
What is the voltage at the mico switches?
How many amps can it handle on both the tool side and the the vacuum or dust collector side? Thank you
I do not understand your question. The relay will handle 30 amps for the dust collector. My 1hp dust collector draws about 15 amps. You can buy relays of different capacities but I got this one for $10. Don't know what you mean by tool side. This circuit only controls the blower.
Thank you for your quick response. You did answer my question. My shop vac draws 9 amps. Some of the of the shelf products only handle 6 amps.
Me again. I have a tab on both sides of my receptacle, do I need to break off the tabs on both sides of the receptacle or just one side.
no, the common side (neutral) stays intact.
Hi Frank, I don't know much about this type of electrical work so can you explain a little better on how to add the Capacitors and resistors. I feel comfortable with all the other stuff on the video and ordered my parts today from Amazon. Can you send or post a wiring diagram for the capacitors, please? I'm running a 110 v HF motor, AC 125V 5A SPDT 3 Pin Momentary Hinge Roller Lever Micro Limit Mini Switches, a 12v power adapter and the SSR-40DA 40A Solid State Relay Input 3-32V DC Output 24-380V AC (SSR-40 DA).
Sorry could not figure out how to include photo in comment.
Capicator and resistor are connected in series and than connected just as you would connect a switch. Switches and capicitor are all connected in parallel. Make sure capacitor is correct for your control voltage voltage and polarity correctly connected. When system is energized it will run for the delay time.
Capacitor charges when all switches are open (this energizes relay until capacitor is charged). Closing switch discharges capacitor through resistors and energizes relay.
Opening switch will cause capacitor to charge keeping relay energized untill it is charged.
Size of capacitor and resistor will determine the delay time.
I look for part 1????
Will this setup work for a 220v dust collector?
No but yes. What i mean the same circuit but you will need two relays (one for each hot leg) you may be able to find a 2 pole relay for 220 volts . I did find a 3 phase relay that would work on a 220 volt circuit.
why it need to automate sawdust collector sir?
Woodworkers do things like this so we don't have to walk over to the dust collector and turn it on every time we want to use it, then walk back and turn it off after we're done.
I must be completely stupid as with TWO new relays it is still not working. I think it is wired exactly the same as what you show in your videos. I've also tried reversing the wires and still no luck
Black wire from power in is going to terminal 2, blk wire from the load is going to terminal 1. positive from the 9 volt source is going to 3 with the negative side (bypassing the switch just for test purposes) goes to terminal 4.
I have a LED light bulb plugged into a receptacle that is the load. I have checked both the incoming voltages from the 9v and the 110v and they are good. When I connect both the leads from the 9 volt source......the red relay light comes on but the plugged in LED does not. Then I turn off the switch that is on the LED light and turn it back on again....then the light goes on! .... then I disconnect one the 9 volt leads to the relay.... the LED goes off ....then I once again reconnect the 9 volt lead and the light does not go on again. ?????
I tried using my planer instead of the LED and the planer did basically the same thing..... once the relay was energized, no go from the planer. I had to turn off the planers switch and turn it back on again and then it would fire up ONLY FOR ABOUT ONE SECOND
The original and second relays were identical to the one in your video. The 3rd one I bought had better reviews on amazon so i thought I'd try it. It was a Berme BEM14840 DA. Same results!!!!
If you would like to email me ....michaelsphoto@shaw.ca
Thanks again for your help
Michael
Wow. I will dig out my relay and check a couple of things. First did you try reversing line 1 and 2? Also an led bulb may not give a good load for the relay. But realy this one stumps me. I have connected two of these with no problems. Will do some testing and let you know what i find.
Did some checking led makes no difference. At this point my only guess is the control voltage. You said you are using a 9v battery. Check battery, also check voltave at relay while energized. Don't know what else to suggest. Circuit is so simple i dont know what else could be wrong. Odds near zero that all 3 relays are bad.
Reread your message and you did not say a 9v battery you said 9v source. This could be your problem. Try a 9 volt battery. Control needs to be DC although your source reads 9v on a meeter it may not be giving good DC voltage and there is a small current drain also if supply cannot supply enough current that may explain the problem.
@@frankorlowicz7002 thanks, ........... Yes,I am using a 9 volt power supply...which showed 9 volts on the multimeter, but I will try a 9volt battery. Stay tuned!
Frank, you need to take a bow! You are one SMART guy!!! You were right.... although I had a full 9 volts DC showing on the meter with the AC to 9 Volt adapter....when I tried using a 9 volt battery it worked. Again, MANY thanks for your help!! And while we're at it, I might as well bug you with one more question. The heat sink gadget that came with the relay???? Not needed? And if I was to use it, I saw some comments elsewhere about thermal grease? or some kind of compound that goes in between? Do you know what that is about?
Frank, thanks for making this video. I have a 220V 3HP jet DC. Could you demonstrate in another video how to set this up for 220? I know this is a large request but looking at your other video and reading your comments pertaining to this one it’s obvious you know what you’re doing... unlike me. Thanks in advance.
Sorry do not have parts to make video. But you will need 2 relays. Connect control circuit in series. Control voltage will be 6 volt minimum I suggest 24 volts. Connect one hot leg to each relay and one load leg to each relay. This should work fine. Make sure control is dc and proper polarity.
Frank,
So I need two SSR-25 solid state relays or is there another type I should get?
Thanks again for your help!
@@frankorlowicz7002
Frank,
Do you recommend two of the SSR-25 AA solid state relays or are there other ones I should pick up to better suit my 220v needs?
Thanks again for your help.
If you can find a 2 pole relay that can handle the current for your blower that would work also. I did not see one in the same price range as the single pole.
@@frankorlowicz7002 Hi Frank, thanks for making this detailed video. I am thinking to do the same thing with 220v and two relays. My question is in this reply above you said to connect the Control Circuit in Series, however in a reply from 11 mos ago, you stated to "connect low voltage control in parallel". Can you confirm? Sorry of I'm misunderstanding.
Why not just buy one its a lot easier and its certified safe.