I ordered one of these today on a black friday sale just to see how the other half lives.🤣 I've got a edelbrock 1411 750cfm on my 390 FE and it works great. If you have enough hood clearance get rid of that drop base. It's a power robber. Even if you have to run a slightly shorter filter it would probably be worth it. A heat shield under the carb will make a huge difference as well. Mine always idled worse when the motor got hot. I added a heat shield and idle is always the same now, nice and smooth.
On my 347 Stoker I used the Holley 4150 650cfm Double Pumper, no choke, Mechanical Secondarys with the Eldelbrock Performer Air Gap Intake. Keeps the Air/fuel mixture cooler. Plenty of Power at low end and up to 6500 RPMs. Like you I also used AFR Heads (.600) Head flow. Also Later Roller Block with 1.7 Rockers to give it a Cam Lift .566. Great street/track Fastback like yours. Used Tilton 600 internal Clutch Release to a Malwood Hydraulic Clutch Pedal with a T5 Transmission. Love watching all your changes.
Yep, there's lots of ways to configure the parts and pieces we put on these 347s. I've got my eye on that Air Gap, I might be putting that on in place of the Performer 289 that's on there now. :)
Nice carb Andy. I have the very same one and I love it. Almost perfectly adjusted right out of the box. I also use the phenolic carb spacer for preventing heat soak issues too. Thanks for sharing.
Good work. I’m looking forward to hearing this engine’s first start. I’m not nearly as brave as you - I farm out most of the work on my ‘66. Thanks for all the vids; they are inspiring
Thanks! Hopefully one day you'll be able to take a wrench and be able to work on your car, and hopefully one of my videos will be able to help you get the job done. :)
Jeepdad, You can do this brother! It is fun, and a lot less expensive too. These old Mustangs are a joy to work on. There is so much support from RUclipsrs like Andy, and Alf's Mustang garage that cover almost everything. Try it, you'll like it! lol
@@robertclymer6948 thanks for the encouraging words. Andy’s vids and others were very helpful when installing my Monte Carlo bar and export brace, new thermostat, fan shroud, new shocks, lowering blocks, basic maintenance, etc.. But I still get nervous messing with the electrical system and drivetrain. I need to get over it!
@@jeepdad That is so awesome Jeepdad!!!!! Good job!!!!!!!! Oh, and I am not that fond of electrical work either, But once into it, it is not that complicated. I always try and use relays and or inline fuses to protect my system, even if it is only 10amps.
I just installed something similar. I tested the fuel lines for leaks and ended up tightening the AN fittings down more than I thought they needed. They really need to be tight. Make sure you use two wrenches to prevent torquing the fittings or lines.
I've watched several of your videos. Always great content! Just wanted to say thank you. I am working on a '70 sportsroof. So, you've helped me on several projects updating various components. Keep up the good work.
Awesome, glad I can help. This is a big reason why I do these videos, somebody somewhere just needs that extra little nugget of info to finish their project and get back on the road. Good luck!! :)
I've been fighting with trying to get a fuel line running with my new Summit carb due to it having a huge intake at 5/8, but the little carter pump being a 1/2", I didn't want to run a big chain of adapters and NO ONE makes a hard line that goes where I need it to all the way on the pass side that also clears PS and AC. Thank you so much for showing how easy the braided setup with conversion to AN is. I'll be ordering everything tomorrow.
Looks great. NOW for the fun part -- ADJUSTING it to a "T" so it performs like you want. If you don't already have a copy, get Mike Urich's "Holley Carburetor Handbook" for the 4150 & 4160 models. It'll really help you get the thing dialed in.
Easy just to dial it in with a vacuum gauge. Setting curb Idle and messing up the transfer slots is critical. Thunderhead289 has a great video on setting up the transfer slots.
@@robertclymer6948 I had to access that set screw on the bottom below the choke to get mine set right. Had bad stumble off idle, and nothing else would cure it. I DID step through all the other adjustments FIRST, in order, to make sure it wasn't anything else. TIP: REPLACE the factory setscrew with a hex socket type set screw. Then if you need to adjust in the future, you can do it with the carb still mounted, cuz the short leg of an "L" type Allen wrench will fit up under there between the manifold and the base of the carb, even without a spacer. Ya heard it here, first.
@@darrinrice367 Was the stumble after the choke was off and warmed up or before? Choke adjust screw is for idle RPM's while choke is engaged. Other side adjustment is for curb idle speed once warmed up. If it has a stumble when all warmed up (lean bog) adjust the arm on the accel pump to .015 play is all.. Also, adjusting the curb idle speed too much, and you might want to check the transfer slots so they are set right. Check out Thunderhead289 Videos on all of this. There is no one better at Holleys then Luke.
@@darrinrice367 Thanks Darrin, nice observation sir. I will do some research on that adjustment as it might also effect the transfer slots for the throttle blades just like the curb idle adjustment on the other side of the carb.
I will say after years of Holley carb building an tuning. the extra spacer at air cleaner base will help an the bigger the better. it helps smooth out air flow into carb. imho
If you're talking about the dual feed line, I purchased it from Summit Racing, part number SUM-220101B. If I was doing another Holley Carb, I'd buy this same kit again. :)
Please give us your honest opinion on the vacuum secondary carburetor (pared with the 5 speed) when you get it on the street again. I've always used double pumper Holley carbs when I could afford them. I have a 357 with T5 and 650 double pumper street brawler carb. Australian 2V heads with 11to1 static compression and run 93 octane pump gas.
The fuel line fittings to the Carb are from Summit Racing (# SUM-220101B), and the fuel line (from the pump to the carb) is a just a piece of 3/8" braided fuel line I purchased form my local hose store, and the fittings for it are -6AN. :)
@@mooosestang there are several ways to modify fuel distribution, you will find that not all cylinders will get adequate fueling with runner lengths being short, and others being long, to help that you open the intake manifold or add a spacer to allow extra fuel from that open space to cross over, otherwise still not an exact science without dyno time. Ford use to modify the carb discharge nozzles to reduce fuel flow to certain cylinders if you look at some OE Holleys you will find they have unique fuel discharge nozzles.
What size or what's it for? I forget the size, I think it was 9/16" (I don't sell this style anymore, so I don't recall the actual thread size). The purpose is so this bar fits everyone's classic mustang. The width from fender apron to fender apron on one car is not the exact same as the next car. This is partially due to the age of these cars, and partially due to the chassis stresses each car has seen in its lifetime. The adjustment guarantees fitment, and no need to get a hydraulic ram to push the fender aprons out to make the bar fit.
@@AndyKruseChannel Hi Andy I need the threaded rod diameter. I have order one Monte Carlo Bar and this are too large. So i see your Bar an d this solution with threaded rod is and 2 nuts exactly what i need
@AndyKruseChannel Thanks for the reply, you have no issues with it? I got a 347 too and I was under the impression that they needed a high performance edelbrock or holley pump that could put out at least 110 Gallons per hour. Your engine builder didn't recommend this?
You really have an amazing channel, so many detailed videos, and your fastback looks awesome. I thought about switching out my Edlebrock 650 on my Cleveland to a Holley. I've had a lot of issues with the Edelbrock carb, especially when it sits for awhile. How do you like the Holley compared to your old Edelbrock?
So far the Holley has been great, but I have not had a chance to dig in and tune it (jets, power valve, etc). I do like the way it looks and it has been problem free so far. :)
I have a fuel regulator and gauge. Found my fuel pressure was up and down while in idle. Changed the regulator and that fix the problem. Holley Regulators are only $40.00. You can run without a regulator but choose not too.
Vacuum secondaries with a t5? I kind of thought it was the other way around, vacuum secondaries with a auto. I'm running a Toploader with a AVS2 so what the hell do I know. On a side note my 4150 is staring me in the face for a rebuild.
I'm considering the 347 stroker rebuild on my 302, Andy. I reckon I get around 10-15mpg depending on how I drive the car. What is the mpg like with your new set up?!
Most people don't like my answer to that question. I don't know and I really don't care. I put so few miles on my car and I like to drive it spiritedly, so MPG is not something I pay attention to. If I had to guess at the kind of mileage I get, I'd say definitely less than 10 mpg, but that's because of my right foot. :)
What AN adapter did you use for the outlet on the fuel pump to convert it to an AN line? Is it a 1/2-20 coming off the fuel pump? Trying to order my set up. Thanks!
The notes I have are: "AN fitting, male -6AN to 1/2-20 inverted flare male, anodized aluminum, black, Earl's brand". Then the part from that fitting to my fuel line is "AN fitting, female -6AN to female 3/8 fuel line, 90 degree bend, anodized aluminum, black". :)
@@brandonduke1903 No, for two reason. One, gasoline and teflon tape don't mix well. Two, the flared design of the fitting removes the need for sealant on the threads. 😀
What the point of connecting both inlet lines? I always assumed double lines were for running a return line to the tank? If you don’t have efi or anything fancy what’s the point of those two connections? I might get rid of my holley efi system when I get a new engine in my 64.5 could sell it to you if you want it. It’s nice but I sorta want to put my car back to stock when I get a new crate engine.
So you can fill both fuel bowls on the carb fast and equally at the same time and not have fuel starvation issues, some older Holley carbs have crossover tubes so the front bowl will get filled first then the rear bowl! it's just a performance thing that Holley eventually made standard it has nothing to do with a return line but you can definitely plumb into that same line and run a return line some people don't on a carburetor which is called a deadhead system because a proper fuel pump whether it be electric or mechanical with well-functioning needle and seats, proper float levels and a good fuel pressure regulator and gauge it's kind of pointless but that's just my opinion.
Each inlet line feeds each half of the Carb. The front half is the primary 2-barrel portion of the Carb, and the back half is the secondary system. Since my car has vacuum secondaries, it only pulls fuel from that rear bowl when the secondaries are open. But yes, both inlet lines are needed for this Carb. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel the fact is that no matter how I turn the screws of quality, quantity and fuel, they still pour very much into the cylinders, I can’t understand what’s the matter, there are two carburetors, an engine of 7 liters mustang.
Hmm. The accelerator pump might be stuck open, which may lead to the problem where extra fuel keeps going into the motor despite the throttle being closed. You may need to take the carb apart and clean it.
The RPM air gap would be the best intake for daily driving and down low power but spending another $500 for an intake manifold when he already has the 289 i don't think there will be significant difference in power or driveability.
Thank you for provide the part numbers for the inlet assembly - I looked on CJ, but they don't offer it - went to summit and it was right there
Glad to be of help. :)
I ordered one of these today on a black friday sale just to see how the other half lives.🤣 I've got a edelbrock 1411 750cfm on my 390 FE and it works great. If you have enough hood clearance get rid of that drop base. It's a power robber. Even if you have to run a slightly shorter filter it would probably be worth it. A heat shield under the carb will make a huge difference as well. Mine always idled worse when the motor got hot. I added a heat shield and idle is always the same now, nice and smooth.
Yeah, this is an older video..... :)
On my 347 Stoker I used the Holley 4150 650cfm Double Pumper, no choke, Mechanical Secondarys with the Eldelbrock Performer Air Gap Intake. Keeps the Air/fuel mixture cooler. Plenty of Power at low end and up to 6500 RPMs. Like you I also used AFR Heads (.600) Head flow. Also Later Roller Block with 1.7 Rockers to give it a Cam Lift .566. Great street/track Fastback like yours. Used Tilton 600 internal Clutch Release to a Malwood Hydraulic Clutch Pedal with a T5 Transmission. Love watching all your changes.
Yep, there's lots of ways to configure the parts and pieces we put on these 347s. I've got my eye on that Air Gap, I might be putting that on in place of the Performer 289 that's on there now. :)
Nice carb Andy. I have the very same one and I love it. Almost perfectly adjusted right out of the box. I also use the phenolic carb spacer for preventing heat soak issues too. Thanks for sharing.
Two people can’t be wrong, right? 😁
@@AndyKruseChannel Right Andy!! Don't forget about those transfer slots set correctly sir.
Good work. I’m looking forward to hearing this engine’s first start. I’m not nearly as brave as you - I farm out most of the work on my ‘66. Thanks for all the vids; they are inspiring
Thanks!
Hopefully one day you'll be able to take a wrench and be able to work on your car, and hopefully one of my videos will be able to help you get the job done. :)
Jeepdad, You can do this brother! It is fun, and a lot less expensive too. These old Mustangs are a joy to work on. There is so much support from RUclipsrs like Andy, and Alf's Mustang garage that cover almost everything. Try it, you'll like it! lol
@@robertclymer6948 thanks for the encouraging words. Andy’s vids and others were very helpful when installing my Monte Carlo bar and export brace, new thermostat, fan shroud, new shocks, lowering blocks, basic maintenance, etc.. But I still get nervous messing with the electrical system and drivetrain. I need to get over it!
@@jeepdad That is so awesome Jeepdad!!!!! Good job!!!!!!!! Oh, and I am not that fond of electrical work either, But once into it, it is not that complicated. I always try and use relays and or inline fuses to protect my system, even if it is only 10amps.
I just installed something similar. I tested the fuel lines for leaks and ended up tightening the AN fittings down more than I thought they needed. They really need to be tight. Make sure you use two wrenches to prevent torquing the fittings or lines.
Agreed, those fittings need to be tight, I already found a leak. 😆
I've watched several of your videos. Always great content! Just wanted to say thank you. I am working on a '70 sportsroof. So, you've helped me on several projects updating various components. Keep up the good work.
Awesome, glad I can help. This is a big reason why I do these videos, somebody somewhere just needs that extra little nugget of info to finish their project and get back on the road. Good luck!! :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Are your Torq Thrust wheels 17s?
@@tedroybal5231 16x7 wheels, part number VN2156765. Tires are Falken Azenis RT615K+, sized 225/50/16, all four. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel
I just ordered AR Torq Thrust 205s. So I bought the wheel caps from you for them!
@@tedroybal5231 Awesome, those caps were dropped off at the Post Office today, hopefully you'll see them before the end of next week! :)
Ford originally had a port in the spacer for the pcv in the valve cover.
Good to know.
I've been fighting with trying to get a fuel line running with my new Summit carb due to it having a huge intake at 5/8, but the little carter pump being a 1/2", I didn't want to run a big chain of adapters and NO ONE makes a hard line that goes where I need it to all the way on the pass side that also clears PS and AC.
Thank you so much for showing how easy the braided setup with conversion to AN is. I'll be ordering everything tomorrow.
Nice!
You may consider making or buying an aluminum heat shield to keep the heat down at the accelerator pump. Helps a lot with the hot soak.
Good to know. :)
Looking forward to hearing it fire up! Getting close! When does your driving season typically restart. For us it’s late April.
Some years it's now, some years it's March, and everything else in between. :)
Looking good Andy.
Thanks 👍
Looks great. NOW for the fun part -- ADJUSTING it to a "T" so it performs like you want. If you don't already have a copy, get Mike Urich's "Holley Carburetor Handbook" for the 4150 & 4160 models. It'll really help you get the thing dialed in.
Thanks for the heads up, I'll have to check it out! :)
Easy just to dial it in with a vacuum gauge. Setting curb Idle and messing up the transfer slots is critical. Thunderhead289 has a great video on setting up the transfer slots.
@@robertclymer6948
I had to access that set screw on the bottom below the choke to get mine set right. Had bad stumble off idle, and nothing else would cure it. I DID step through all the other adjustments FIRST, in order, to make sure it wasn't anything else.
TIP: REPLACE the factory setscrew with a hex socket type set screw. Then if you need to adjust in the future, you can do it with the carb still mounted, cuz the short leg of an "L" type Allen wrench will fit up under there between the manifold and the base of the carb, even without a spacer. Ya heard it here, first.
@@darrinrice367 Was the stumble after the choke was off and warmed up or before? Choke adjust screw is for idle RPM's while choke is engaged. Other side adjustment is for curb idle speed once warmed up. If it has a stumble when all warmed up (lean bog) adjust the arm on the accel pump to .015 play is all.. Also, adjusting the curb idle speed too much, and you might want to check the transfer slots so they are set right. Check out Thunderhead289 Videos on all of this. There is no one better at Holleys then Luke.
@@darrinrice367 Thanks Darrin, nice observation sir. I will do some research on that adjustment as it might also effect the transfer slots for the throttle blades just like the curb idle adjustment on the other side of the carb.
it will be a spiritual experience when it fires... I just loaded my 1967 347 Fastback to take it to the exhaust shop tomorrow... enjoy
I hope so! Good luck with your new exhaust, hopefully it comes out like you're wanting it to. :)
Coming together nice 👍👌👌
Thank you! Cheers!
Looks good.
Thanks!
Looks awesome!
Thanks!!
I will say after years of Holley carb building an tuning. the extra spacer at air cleaner base will help an the bigger the better. it helps smooth out air flow into carb. imho
Thanks for the tip!
Would you happen to know the part number for the two AN inlet fittings that screw into both ends of the carb?
If you're talking about the dual feed line, I purchased it from Summit Racing, part number SUM-220101B. If I was doing another Holley Carb, I'd buy this same kit again. :)
Awesome thanks! I just bought a Holley and I like the set up you have.
Any chance you will install a return fuel system?
Zero chances until I go EFI. :)
Do you remember where you got the fuel rail with the an fittings? thanks
That is a Summit Racing unit, part number SUM-220101B. :)
Please give us your honest opinion on the vacuum secondary carburetor (pared with the 5 speed) when you get it on the street again. I've always used double pumper Holley carbs when I could afford them. I have a 357 with T5 and 650 double pumper street brawler carb. Australian 2V heads with 11to1 static compression and run 93 octane pump gas.
I plan to comment on this new motor and additional components as soon as I can get the car out of the garage. :)
THE SHORT ANSWER:
Intake vacuum is a higher fidelity indicator of the instantaneous air/fuel desires of the engine than throttle position.
Looking sweet
Thanks 😊
Hey I’m trying to find the fuel lines , I have the same carburetor but I cannot find the correct fuel line kit
The fuel line fittings to the Carb are from Summit Racing (# SUM-220101B), and the fuel line (from the pump to the carb) is a just a piece of 3/8" braided fuel line I purchased form my local hose store, and the fittings for it are -6AN. :)
You want to run an open spacer for more intake volume and fuel distribution .....
Thanks for the heads up. :)
I've seen people claim the 4 hole helps with fuel atomization, who knows. I run a spacer that matches the intake.
@@mooosestang there are several ways to modify fuel distribution, you will find that not all cylinders will get adequate fueling with runner lengths being short, and others being long, to help that you open the intake manifold or add a spacer to allow extra fuel from that open space to cross over, otherwise still not an exact science without dyno time. Ford use to modify the carb discharge nozzles to reduce fuel flow to certain cylinders if you look at some OE Holleys you will find they have unique fuel discharge nozzles.
Where you get the air cleaner from
eBay. I don't know the manufacturer, but it's a standard 14" dia x 3" tall, with washable filter element.
Hi Andy
What is the threaded rod on the Monte Carlo bar?
What size or what's it for?
I forget the size, I think it was 9/16" (I don't sell this style anymore, so I don't recall the actual thread size). The purpose is so this bar fits everyone's classic mustang. The width from fender apron to fender apron on one car is not the exact same as the next car. This is partially due to the age of these cars, and partially due to the chassis stresses each car has seen in its lifetime. The adjustment guarantees fitment, and no need to get a hydraulic ram to push the fender aprons out to make the bar fit.
@@AndyKruseChannel Hi Andy
I need the threaded rod diameter.
I have order one Monte Carlo Bar and this are too large. So i see your Bar an d this solution with threaded rod is and 2 nuts exactly what i need
Hi Andy where did you by the fuellime?
I purchased it from a local company that sells those types of parts. I purchased a couple feet and cut it to fit. 🙂
Where did you put fuel filter? Not sure if you already had it on fuel line… Air cleaner is quite tall, it still fits under hood? 😮😊
I didn't install one with this new Carb, I haven't decided what I want to do yet with the fuel pump yet. :)
Hi Andy can I ask u what kind of fuel pump u have on the 347, specs/brand?
It's just the regular stock pump that came with the 289. :)
@AndyKruseChannel Thanks for the reply, you have no issues with it? I got a 347 too and I was under the impression that they needed a high performance edelbrock or holley pump that could put out at least 110 Gallons per hour. Your engine builder didn't recommend this?
@@mrgonz215 No issues. :)
AWESOME 🐎🔧🚗🇺🇸💪
Thanks.
You really have an amazing channel, so many detailed videos, and your fastback looks awesome. I thought about switching out my Edlebrock 650 on my Cleveland to a Holley. I've had a lot of issues with the Edelbrock carb, especially when it sits for awhile. How do you like the Holley compared to your old Edelbrock?
So far the Holley has been great, but I have not had a chance to dig in and tune it (jets, power valve, etc). I do like the way it looks and it has been problem free so far. :)
I've never seen a fuel pressure gauge on a carb, what is the advantage of having one there?
To know what the fuel pressure is.
@@AndyKruseChannel so its not just a clever name? haha.
I have a fuel regulator and gauge. Found my fuel pressure was up and down while in idle. Changed the regulator and that fix the problem. Holley Regulators are only $40.00. You can run without a regulator but choose not too.
Vacuum secondaries with a t5? I kind of thought it was the other way around, vacuum secondaries with a auto. I'm running a Toploader with a AVS2 so what the hell do I know. On a side note my 4150 is staring me in the face for a rebuild.
Yes, vacuum secondaries with my T5.
@@AndyKruseChannel well I'm pretty sure you could run a autolite 2 barrel with the 347 and have horsepower and torque for days so "let her eat"👍
I'm considering the 347 stroker rebuild on my 302, Andy. I reckon I get around 10-15mpg depending on how I drive the car. What is the mpg like with your new set up?!
Most people don't like my answer to that question. I don't know and I really don't care. I put so few miles on my car and I like to drive it spiritedly, so MPG is not something I pay attention to. If I had to guess at the kind of mileage I get, I'd say definitely less than 10 mpg, but that's because of my right foot. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Thanks for that information. I put quite a lot of miles on my car over the summer months and love every shoddy MPG of it! 😁
.. the manual chokes are set up more with hot rod jetting etc .. 🧰👨🔧
Good to know.
What AN adapter did you use for the outlet on the fuel pump to convert it to an AN line? Is it a 1/2-20 coming off the fuel pump? Trying to order my set up. Thanks!
The notes I have are: "AN fitting, male -6AN to 1/2-20 inverted flare male, anodized aluminum, black, Earl's brand". Then the part from that fitting to my fuel line is "AN fitting, female -6AN to female 3/8 fuel line, 90 degree bend, anodized aluminum, black". :)
@@AndyKruseChannel did you need to use teflon tape or thread sealant on the male inverted flare end of the adapter?
@@brandonduke1903 No, for two reason. One, gasoline and teflon tape don't mix well. Two, the flared design of the fitting removes the need for sealant on the threads. 😀
What the point of connecting both inlet lines? I always assumed double lines were for running a return line to the tank? If you don’t have efi or anything fancy what’s the point of those two connections? I might get rid of my holley efi system when I get a new engine in my 64.5 could sell it to you if you want it. It’s nice but I sorta want to put my car back to stock when I get a new crate engine.
So you can fill both fuel bowls on the carb fast and equally at the same time and not have fuel starvation issues, some older Holley carbs have crossover tubes so the front bowl will get filled first then the rear bowl! it's just a performance thing that Holley eventually made standard it has nothing to do with a return line but you can definitely plumb into that same line and run a return line some people don't on a carburetor which is called a deadhead system because a proper fuel pump whether it be electric or mechanical with well-functioning needle and seats, proper float levels and a good fuel pressure regulator and gauge it's kind of pointless but that's just my opinion.
Each inlet line feeds each half of the Carb. The front half is the primary 2-barrel portion of the Carb, and the back half is the secondary system. Since my car has vacuum secondaries, it only pulls fuel from that rear bowl when the secondaries are open. But yes, both inlet lines are needed for this Carb. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel good to know both of you I might need to do the same with my edlebrock 650cfm I put in my 289 sounds like a good idea
hello please help me solve the problem of black smoke at idle, holley 4160 carburetor.
You might be running too rich. You may need to go through the process of setting your idle mixture screws.
@@AndyKruseChannel the fact is that no matter how I turn the screws of quality, quantity and fuel, they still pour very much into the cylinders, I can’t understand what’s the matter, there are two carburetors, an engine of 7 liters mustang.
@@AndyKruseChannel idle is 700-800 rpm.
Hmm. The accelerator pump might be stuck open, which may lead to the problem where extra fuel keeps going into the motor despite the throttle being closed. You may need to take the carb apart and clean it.
@@AndyKruseChannel new carburetors without mileage may have such a defect
Nice! Can’t wait to see it fire up. Did you ever consider doing efi? Or carb all the way?
I might do EFI down the road, but I am enjoying the challenge of a Carb for now. I like the sense of accomplishment when I can get a Carb to work. :)
Any plans to upgrade the intake now that you are running a 347?
The RPM air gap would be the best intake for daily driving and down low power but spending another $500 for an intake manifold when he already has the 289 i don't think there will be significant difference in power or driveability.
I'd like to do something like the Air Gap manifold down the road, but not at this time. :)
I am sort of thinking the same thing, but we'll see how things go. :)
#2 comment. I definitely see a Edelbrock Performer RPM intake at least in your future.
That or maybe the RPM Air Gap. :)
🔥🔥🔥🔥👏🏾👍🏾🙌🏾
Hopefully there’s no fire. 😆