Absolutely gorgeous and wonderful wood species choices. I love that curly maple. I’ve watched a lot of your videos and I’m working my way back to some of the older ones. I would love to make an elegant chess board
Zhis is the the best channel, for a combination of a woodworking class board obsessed germaphobe. Very clean work, only in 90 degrees. Even the belt sander is food grade.
What a beautiful work of art and craftmanship. This is going to be my first chess-checker board project. You have inspired many im sure. This will definitely be a time consuming process and task. But when I'm done, I hope it is as stunning as yours. Thank you.
Brilliant! Beautiful work and video. Not taking away from your craftsmanship in any way, but I would like to mention a thing about Wenge. I also love it and use it all the time. Unfortunately the species, Millettia laurentii, will cause neurological damage if the fine dust is inhaled. Of course we all know that dust is bad for our lungs. But this species can affect your brain and cognitive function. A dust mask isn't sufficient. an N95 respirator (or better) is needed for full protection. Once it's sanded and finished it poses no harm. Even if ingested. It's just the dust that can get us. I'm very happy to send you a link to an academic source if you're interested. Keep up the beautiful work! ~James
Thanks for the info, James. I didn't know that about wenge. I just figured my continual cognitive decline was due to aging. 🙂 I'll definitely wear an N95 respirator moving forward when working with wenge. I appreciate the tip.
What an incredible work of art; the chessboard is nice too. Seriously, stunningly beautiful creation with a fantastic presentation. I feel like I’ve just had a massage. Even more beautiful than the large frame you made for your daughter’s art, and that was lovely.
That is a beautiful board. I have never worked with wenge. Every time I look at wenge at the store and pick up a board to turn it over and look at the other side I always get a splinter...
I'm the same way! I don't care what people say. If I'm dealing with rough lumber, I'm using gloves until I'm able to handle the wood.... I feel it's more dangerous not providing the proper grip when cutting, to avoid getting splinters....
So glad to see this board. This is the would I have set aside for mine. haven't watched the video yet but am very interested in how you finish and who it comes out w/ the porousness of the Wenge Grain. See you on the other side. :)
Wenge finishes quite nicely. I definitely wouldn't use it for an end grain board because the end grain is like a bunch of straws bunched together. I think you'll like working with it.
@@Woodumakeit .... upon seeing the end results, I believe I like your Ebony perimeter over the brass idea I mentioned in one of your other video's. This really looks much better I think. However, although I love Padauk , I believe I'd use something that blended the Maple & Wenge better, like Olive wood w/ yellow and brown grain for the cosmetic step in the layers if I went that rout. And after seeing the results I'm tending towards your design in that respect. Well, boy what a chess board. You inspire me sir. Sincerely ......................... Steph (Louisiana)
Quick question: How thick can you leave your veneer squares and have them stay dimensionally stable? I assume that is why you cut the thin squares and glue them to the plywood. How thick is too thick?
I've cut squares as thick as 5/8" and haven't had any problems. I typically resaw a 4/4 board to get two strips and they end up being in the 1/4" - 3/8" range.
@@Woodumakeit Okay. Thank you. I was wondering if the splinters might be poisonous like one of our local species here, greenheart. Greetings from Guyana, South America. 😊
Putting squares on both sides helps to balance the forces of expansion and contraction on both sides to minimize warping. In this case, since the board is elevated from the table top, a little bit of warping wouln't be that notieable. It also looks nicer to have squares on both sides, in my opinion, but this board is unlikely going to be flipped over because of its design, so the client and I decided to have squares only on the top to keep the cost down.
The end grain boards take less effort, but the face grain boards offer a lot more options when it comes to choosing wood types and you can reveal some really nice grain patterns, so I'd lean towards a face grain board being my preference.
It's a Laguna Resaw King blade that I use. In this 18" band saw, it's a fairly large 145" x 1" blade. In my 14" band saw, I had previously used a 105" x 3/4" Resaw King blade. They work quite well.
I bought the ebony and some boxwood for a chess board that I'll be making. I figure I could cut off a thin strip for this chess board and still have enough left over for its original purpose. It certainly is expensive!
Just gorgeous. So gorgeous. Excellent miters and results all around. I have a question on construction: have you made a board like this before (I don't recall seeing one like this in previous videos). In particular I ask because I'm curious about a) the thickness of your top "veneer" and b) no balancing "veneer" on the bottom (veneer in quotes because this is super thick). I recently made a board and perhaps am overly paranoid from reading *too* much on the internet, but saw many comments of people cautious about both of these points for long term stability. With plywood, I don't think you'll blow your miters from expansion, but it seemed that thick wood (even more than 1/16 some will say) can still induce warping in the plywood; the hardwood is just too strong. As another strategy, a parallel proposal was to balance the top with the same thickness of hardwood on the bottom. I recently made a board and was at maybe 3/32-1/8 for the top, balanced with 1/16 veneer on the bottom. www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/comments/m4fwib/1950_dubrovnik_chess_pieces_and_board/ I've watched a bunch of your builds and trust a person who has *actually* made boards vs. people in forums speculating and perhaps who have never made them :) I'd love your opinion on this point. I realize if you hadn't gone this thick you couldn't have had that nice reveal above the frame. If there *is* wisdom to the above, maybe the strategy would be to add a layer of hardwood (any width, same thickness) below the plywood? I felt I noticed some "smile" to my plywood after gluing on my [thin] top, and wondered if it's all that water in the glue stuck in the sandwich. Perhaps your stack of frames is sufficient to keep it flat. Mine only had the border around it, though I did attach with splines in the plywood so... fingers crossed. Thanks for input and for reading a long comment if you made it!
I think you raise a valid concern about balancing both sides of the plywood to minimize warping. I didn't show it as part of this video, but I added a thin curly maple veneer onto the bottom, but that wouldn't be sufficient to balance the strength of the hardwood on the top. I am hopeful that the frame is thick enough that it will minimize any warping. I stay in touch with the client and he hasn't mentioned any problems so far, but it's only been about six months that he's had it. This is the first board that I've made that doesn't have a similar layer of squares on the other side, although I'm in the process of making another one now that will also have a thin maple burl veneer on the bottom. I will release a video of that one in a couple of months. One thing I can suggest is to keep the board clamped flat for several days to let all of the moisture from the glue to dry. It's important to keep it flat the whole time to minimize the chances of warping while the moisture on one side is leaving. You'll see in a video that I'm going to release today that I built a clamping fixture for clamping chess boards. I made three of these fixtures and they have really increased my productivity and my ability to clamp the board around all four sides. Having three of these helps a lot so that I can keep a board clamped for several days while I continue to work on others. In fact, I've used one of the fixtured to clamp the maple veneer for about six weeks so that it'll be completely flat before I glue it onto the plywood. I hope that helps!
@@Woodumakeit A reply from the man himself! And so fast! This is excellent. I completely missed the veneer on the bottom and couldn't tell the light veneer from the plywood. That actually makes a ton of sense as this would be an insanely nice board to have baltic birch for an underbelly :) I'll chalk one up for "tentatively perhaps unnecessary" with respect to thickness, though your frame has to help with it's beefy stack-up acting like a beam. Great point about the glue... I think I eagerly unclamp mine overnight to see results, but could leave it for much longer. Clamping to the middle has been a challenge for me as well. I typically use a bunch of plywood below, board, then ply above. I can fit clamps around the edges and use a 50lb bag of gravel in the middle, though I don't know that 50lbs is actually *that* much compared to what all those clamps can deliver. I look forward to seeing the fixture! Thanks for the feedback. Your boards and pieces are amazing and I'm just starting so I really appreciate the opportunity to learn from you!
Very nice! I see you're having the same problem with your SuperMax that I am. Bought the replacement table belt from Highland and it constantly tracks towards the motor side of the machine and the "open" side is incredibly loose. Drives me nuts. At least I'm not the only one. Again, great job.
I had a bit of a tracking issue when I first installed the replacement belt from Highland, but I was able to resolve that by adjusting the screws, which is why it's looser on the open side. From what I've read, it's fine to be loose like that so I'm ok with it.
Hey Mike! Just found all your videos and instantly subscribed. I love your work and the chess boards you make. Just as a question for the future when I might be able to afford one of your beauties, would you consider shipping to Europe?
Thanks for subscribing! I've shipped quite a few chessboards to Europe, so that's not a problem at all. Feel free to contact me at woodumakeit@gmail.com when you're ready.
Sorry for the late response. Yes, I highly recommend this process. The dewaxed shellac gives it a rich color and the pre-catalyzed lacquer is dries very quickly and is easy to work with.
Many chessboard makers are starting to use plywood as backing for the board instead of just using wood... I am guessing that warping must have been an issue on the pure wooden boards? Also, how much does this weigh? Beautiful work.
Plywood helps to control warping as well as wood movement. Since this one wouldn't be sitting flat on the table, it needed the plywood to provide additional support. This one was just under 20lbs, I think.
It's hard to say how many hours I put into this one because I work on multiple projects in parallel. I know that the total elapsed time was slightly less than two months working only on weekends. It's likely a two week effort if it was the only thing I was doing.
Wenge is expensive lol. I hope your charging huge bucks for that board. I build the boards into table so I can justify the price. Most people won’t pay over 1k for a board but have no problem paying 3.5 k for a table.
It's because if the glove catches on a spinning blade, it could pull your hand right it. Many bad accidents have occurred with table saws, jointers, drill presses, etc. caused by people wearing gloves.
I've been woodworking for many years and I still get goosebumps when I see a beautiful piece of wood become a beautiful piece of art. Nice job!!!
I’ll show you a nice piece of art wood giggity
Wow, what a beautiful board. I'm not a woodworker by any means but I'm an avid chess enthusiasts and that is a piece of art.
I cant imagine how much that piece of ebony is worth ! It turned out wonderful.
I’m working on a wenge and curly maple board right now. Wish I had watched your video first! Beautiful board!
I am in awe! ...with envy too........ and the music was superb! Thank you!
This is gorgeous! Wasn't sure I was going to like the padauk in there but I actually love it! Great work, as always!
I've been binge watching this channel and it's awesome to see him create these beautiful pieces of work! This channel is so underrated!
Thank you so much!!
Wow!!! That Curley maple was really smiling at ya. Great job👍👍👍
Lovely choice of music, very relaxing 😌
Absolutely gorgeous and wonderful wood species choices. I love that curly maple. I’ve watched a lot of your videos and I’m working my way back to some of the older ones. I would love to make an elegant chess board
Thanks for watching!
Incredible workmanship ... I could watch these videos all day ... 😎👍
There because I'm obsessed with chess boards!!!!!
Thoroughly enjoyed this. Choice of accompanying Piano music is very pleasant. Chessboard is gorgeous.
This is ART
I will always watch your videos because its about the beauty and craftsmanship over a brand or being a " maker "
Love to watch makes me relax and stress free thank you
This music makes me think I should be watching David Banner hitchhiking at the end of the 77 Hulk tv series.
Bahahahahahahahahaha !!!
Zhis is the the best channel, for a combination of a woodworking class board obsessed germaphobe. Very clean work, only in 90 degrees. Even the belt sander is food grade.
Your quality of work is seemingly unmatched!!
Fabulous! Excellent work.
How does someone order a set? Love your videos
Another beautiful board Mike. Nicely done video, too.
Thank you, Ray.
Fascinating to watch. Just wow.
What a beautiful work of art and craftmanship. This is going to be my first chess-checker board project. You have inspired many im sure. This will definitely be a time consuming process and task. But when I'm done, I hope it is as stunning as yours. Thank you.
LOL. got to be one of the heaviest chess board around, just love your work even your cutting board video's, thanks a lot.
Amazing work!
great video, perfect music, absolutely wonderful result. Thank you for sharing.
Beautiful design and immaculate workmanship!! Congratulations!
Beautiful piece of art! The music is relaxing while watching you work hard! LOL
I would be very proud to own such a beautiful piece of craftsmanship.
Beautiful! Your best chess board yet!
Brilliant! Beautiful work and video.
Not taking away from your craftsmanship in any way, but I would like to mention a thing about Wenge. I also love it and use it all the time. Unfortunately the species, Millettia laurentii, will cause neurological damage if the fine dust is inhaled. Of course we all know that dust is bad for our lungs. But this species can affect your brain and cognitive function. A dust mask isn't sufficient. an N95 respirator (or better) is needed for full protection. Once it's sanded and finished it poses no harm. Even if ingested. It's just the dust that can get us. I'm very happy to send you a link to an academic source if you're interested.
Keep up the beautiful work!
~James
Thanks for the info, James. I didn't know that about wenge. I just figured my continual cognitive decline was due to aging. 🙂 I'll definitely wear an N95 respirator moving forward when working with wenge. I appreciate the tip.
Can’t wait to see my project!
What an incredible work of art; the chessboard is nice too.
Seriously, stunningly beautiful creation with a fantastic presentation. I feel like I’ve just had a massage.
Even more beautiful than the large frame you made for your daughter’s art, and that was lovely.
Thank you so much!
Absolutely awesome work.. Looks stunning.. Not a fan of the elevator music but hey ho.. Great job
Really beautiful work, man... It turned out gorgeous! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Excelente trabajo! Felicitaciones! Se aprecia el cariño que le pones a lo que haces. Germán, Montevideo, Uruguay
That is a beautiful board. I have never worked with wenge. Every time I look at wenge at the store and pick up a board to turn it over and look at the other side I always get a splinter...
How Amazing
Another masterpiece and magnificent wood!
I'm also really interested in those metal corner bracket pieces you use for clamping. Those seem really useful!
Beautiful! Well done!
I'm the same way! I don't care what people say. If I'm dealing with rough lumber, I'm using gloves until I'm able to handle the wood.... I feel it's more dangerous not providing the proper grip when cutting, to avoid getting splinters....
Beautiful! Too bad you didn't take me seriously when I tried to get you interested in making a custom board for me.
That’s some darned nice and expensive wood to be *mostly* hidden within/underneath the base frame structure!
I love your work.
Beautiful job!!!
Beautiful job 👏
Lovely project only thing is I think the US needs to be introduced to a spindle moulder
The solution to splintery Wenge on the jointer....is a push block...but hey, they're your hands.
WoW complimenti bel progetto eseguito da maestro....
Beautiful 👍
So glad to see this board. This is the would I have set aside for mine. haven't watched the video yet but am very interested in how you finish and who it comes out w/ the porousness of the Wenge Grain.
See you on the other side. :)
Wenge finishes quite nicely. I definitely wouldn't use it for an end grain board because the end grain is like a bunch of straws bunched together. I think you'll like working with it.
@@Woodumakeit .... upon seeing the end results, I believe I like your Ebony perimeter over the brass idea I mentioned in one of your other video's. This really looks much better I think. However, although I love Padauk , I believe I'd use something that blended the Maple & Wenge better, like Olive wood w/ yellow and brown grain for the cosmetic step in the layers if I went that rout. And after seeing the results I'm tending towards your design in that respect.
Well, boy what a chess board. You inspire me sir.
Sincerely .........................
Steph (Louisiana)
Quick question: How thick can you leave your veneer squares and have them stay dimensionally stable? I assume that is why you cut the thin squares and glue them to the plywood. How thick is too thick?
I've cut squares as thick as 5/8" and haven't had any problems. I typically resaw a 4/4 board to get two strips and they end up being in the 1/4" - 3/8" range.
Wow! I’m inspired to make a Xiangqi board.
I'm making one now! Hopefully I can get a video out soon.
I’m going to make my own chess set along with the board.
I can’t wait to see the video!
@@Woodumakeit how much cost a board like that is beautiful great job
Beautiful work.
Question: Why do you wear gloves when handling the rough-sawn wenge and not the other wood species?
It's because it's very easy to get splinters with wenge, especially when it's rough. I didn't need to wear gloves after it was milled.
@@Woodumakeit
Okay. Thank you. I was wondering if the splinters might be poisonous like one of our local species here, greenheart.
Greetings from Guyana, South America. 😊
Beautiful work!!
I noticed that you didn't put squares on the bottom like you normally do, is there a reason?
Putting squares on both sides helps to balance the forces of expansion and contraction on both sides to minimize warping. In this case, since the board is elevated from the table top, a little bit of warping wouln't be that notieable. It also looks nicer to have squares on both sides, in my opinion, but this board is unlikely going to be flipped over because of its design, so the client and I decided to have squares only on the top to keep the cost down.
What is your preference now: solid end-grain boards or thin face-grain with plywood core?
The end grain boards take less effort, but the face grain boards offer a lot more options when it comes to choosing wood types and you can reveal some really nice grain patterns, so I'd lean towards a face grain board being my preference.
What kind of blade are you using for resawing in your band saw?
It's a Laguna Resaw King blade that I use. In this 18" band saw, it's a fairly large 145" x 1" blade. In my 14" band saw, I had previously used a 105" x 3/4" Resaw King blade. They work quite well.
What table saw are you using?
I WOULD DO END GRAIN, BESDIDES THAT IT WAS A GOOD LOOKING BOARD
That looks like a nice big, thick and long slab of ebony. New acquisition? Will we be seeing more chess pieces made out of that?
I bought the ebony and some boxwood for a chess board that I'll be making. I figure I could cut off a thin strip for this chess board and still have enough left over for its original purpose. It certainly is expensive!
Just gorgeous. So gorgeous. Excellent miters and results all around.
I have a question on construction: have you made a board like this before (I don't recall seeing one like this in previous videos). In particular I ask because I'm curious about a) the thickness of your top "veneer" and b) no balancing "veneer" on the bottom (veneer in quotes because this is super thick). I recently made a board and perhaps am overly paranoid from reading *too* much on the internet, but saw many comments of people cautious about both of these points for long term stability.
With plywood, I don't think you'll blow your miters from expansion, but it seemed that thick wood (even more than 1/16 some will say) can still induce warping in the plywood; the hardwood is just too strong. As another strategy, a parallel proposal was to balance the top with the same thickness of hardwood on the bottom. I recently made a board and was at maybe 3/32-1/8 for the top, balanced with 1/16 veneer on the bottom. www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/comments/m4fwib/1950_dubrovnik_chess_pieces_and_board/
I've watched a bunch of your builds and trust a person who has *actually* made boards vs. people in forums speculating and perhaps who have never made them :) I'd love your opinion on this point. I realize if you hadn't gone this thick you couldn't have had that nice reveal above the frame. If there *is* wisdom to the above, maybe the strategy would be to add a layer of hardwood (any width, same thickness) below the plywood? I felt I noticed some "smile" to my plywood after gluing on my [thin] top, and wondered if it's all that water in the glue stuck in the sandwich. Perhaps your stack of frames is sufficient to keep it flat. Mine only had the border around it, though I did attach with splines in the plywood so... fingers crossed.
Thanks for input and for reading a long comment if you made it!
I think you raise a valid concern about balancing both sides of the plywood to minimize warping. I didn't show it as part of this video, but I added a thin curly maple veneer onto the bottom, but that wouldn't be sufficient to balance the strength of the hardwood on the top. I am hopeful that the frame is thick enough that it will minimize any warping. I stay in touch with the client and he hasn't mentioned any problems so far, but it's only been about six months that he's had it.
This is the first board that I've made that doesn't have a similar layer of squares on the other side, although I'm in the process of making another one now that will also have a thin maple burl veneer on the bottom. I will release a video of that one in a couple of months.
One thing I can suggest is to keep the board clamped flat for several days to let all of the moisture from the glue to dry. It's important to keep it flat the whole time to minimize the chances of warping while the moisture on one side is leaving.
You'll see in a video that I'm going to release today that I built a clamping fixture for clamping chess boards. I made three of these fixtures and they have really increased my productivity and my ability to clamp the board around all four sides. Having three of these helps a lot so that I can keep a board clamped for several days while I continue to work on others. In fact, I've used one of the fixtured to clamp the maple veneer for about six weeks so that it'll be completely flat before I glue it onto the plywood.
I hope that helps!
@@Woodumakeit A reply from the man himself! And so fast! This is excellent. I completely missed the veneer on the bottom and couldn't tell the light veneer from the plywood. That actually makes a ton of sense as this would be an insanely nice board to have baltic birch for an underbelly :)
I'll chalk one up for "tentatively perhaps unnecessary" with respect to thickness, though your frame has to help with it's beefy stack-up acting like a beam. Great point about the glue... I think I eagerly unclamp mine overnight to see results, but could leave it for much longer. Clamping to the middle has been a challenge for me as well. I typically use a bunch of plywood below, board, then ply above. I can fit clamps around the edges and use a 50lb bag of gravel in the middle, though I don't know that 50lbs is actually *that* much compared to what all those clamps can deliver. I look forward to seeing the fixture!
Thanks for the feedback. Your boards and pieces are amazing and I'm just starting so I really appreciate the opportunity to learn from you!
W.O.W.
@Wood U Make It Can you make me a chessboard? Excellent video. No ego, no fluff, no artifice.... just relaxing craftsmanship.
Very nice! I see you're having the same problem with your SuperMax that I am. Bought the replacement table belt from Highland and it constantly tracks towards the motor side of the machine and the "open" side is incredibly loose. Drives me nuts. At least I'm not the only one. Again, great job.
I had a bit of a tracking issue when I first installed the replacement belt from Highland, but I was able to resolve that by adjusting the screws, which is why it's looser on the open side. From what I've read, it's fine to be loose like that so I'm ok with it.
That is one beautiful piece of work. I have heard that you have to be careful of wood movement with chess boards. Is this not an issue??
Hey Mike! Just found all your videos and instantly subscribed. I love your work and the chess boards you make. Just as a question for the future when I might be able to afford one of your beauties, would you consider shipping to Europe?
Thanks for subscribing! I've shipped quite a few chessboards to Europe, so that's not a problem at all. Feel free to contact me at woodumakeit@gmail.com when you're ready.
I sent you an email, on how I can get the chessboard
I’m finishing my chess board right now, do you recommend this finishing process with dewaxed shellac and then pre-catalyze lacquer?
Sorry for the late response. Yes, I highly recommend this process. The dewaxed shellac gives it a rich color and the pre-catalyzed lacquer is dries very quickly and is easy to work with.
Many chessboard makers are starting to use plywood as backing for the board instead of just using wood... I am guessing that warping must have been an issue on the pure wooden boards? Also, how much does this weigh? Beautiful work.
Plywood helps to control warping as well as wood movement. Since this one wouldn't be sitting flat on the table, it needed the plywood to provide additional support. This one was just under 20lbs, I think.
@@Woodumakeit Thank you.
exelente
Beautiful. From start to delivery, how long did it take to build?
It's hard to say how many hours I put into this one because I work on multiple projects in parallel. I know that the total elapsed time was slightly less than two months working only on weekends. It's likely a two week effort if it was the only thing I was doing.
What's wrong with gloves?
Wenge is expensive lol. I hope your charging huge bucks for that board. I build the boards into table so I can justify the price. Most people won’t pay over 1k for a board but have no problem paying 3.5 k for a table.
How does one go about requesting a chess board from you?
You can email me at woodumakeit@gmail.com and I'd be happy to discuss.
Can you make one for me? Please let me know the cost as well.
Bellissima
Not square!
2x speed is better 4x would be perfect
These are beautiful. How would I contact you about a chess board?
Ficou muito alto
Why is wearing gloves dangerous?
It's because if the glove catches on a spinning blade, it could pull your hand right it. Many bad accidents have occurred with table saws, jointers, drill presses, etc. caused by people wearing gloves.
I wonder what someone pays for this thing…. Anyone have a ballpark?
Beautiful piece but must weigh a ton.
It's not too bad. It's just under 20lbs, I think.
@@Woodumakeit well it looks fantastic.
👍👍👍👍
You need to know when too much looks ridiculous. Less is more.
Wonderful work, truly. But next time if you want to go for the asmr dont put music in the background e.e
Why? Are you part of some no glove sect?
I wood make it if I had aaalll that phat equipment.
I'd like it too but I've found , "where there's a will , there's a way". :)
Beautiful 👍