What finally sold me on staking it was when i looked to see how much a basic endplate costs. Its only about 5 bucks. So if you need to remove the buffer and want a nice clean finish when you re assemble you can buy a new plate for just a few bucks.
Its not totally necessary you wont see it in factory guns but if your never planning on stock on a buffer tube for a proprietary stock why not. Its a good assurance.
@@Owwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww not only would I posit that it is absolutely necessary on any serious-use gun, but it's also quite easy to break the staking in the case you want to change your buffer tube or end plate
If you plan on removing the castle nut for whatever reason I recommend a PWS Ratcheting castle nut and Endplate. They lock on nice and tight without any need for a punch and have never backed off on me, looks real good on the gun and the extra QD mount is nice touch.
I removed a staked BCM castle nut. Wow, used a breaker bar. BCM knows how to stake!!! 3 places. I hope to achieve half as good of a job once reassembled.
Thank you for the information. Building my first AR in CA cause there are no good quality complete lowers being shipped here and will definitely learn how to stake mine.
I appreciate these videos. Because of my child’s extra needs I won’t ever be able to buy a SOL blaster. BUTTT what I’ve been doing is following along with your recommendations and buying SOLGW parts, when I can, so I can have as close to quality as I can. I’ve been shooting since I was four, dad was a Marine range master and shooting is literally my therapy-in the most of literal meanings. And no I didn’t bring up my child to bitch or pander, just to explain that it’s not because I’m a bum or some shit. Thanks Mike, I really appreciate your constant input and teachings
I appreciate and admire your dedication to your child. Much more important than a Gucci AR. I just took your explanation as just that, an explanation. God bless.
I just tried to upgrade an old DMPS buffer tube to a mil-spec one and I think it was lock-tite'd Had to use a Dremel to get the bloody thing off. I installed the new buffer tube and did stake it in two places. Red Locktite sucks on AR15s.
I agree that the castle nut should be stacked...but one thing stated that I take question with is...the nut would have to get loose BEFORE the tube could turn...as it would need enough slack for the endplate to also turn, as the endplate is fitted into the rear of the receiver. The tube cannot turn if it is all tight...so once it is tight, stake it...and it will stay that way.
I have been to quite a few carbine classes...the number 1 failure i have seen is receiver extensions rotating which sent buffer detents and springs into the internals of the rifle rendering them inoperable...most were home builds but a couple were cheap ARs...people come up with lame excuses for not doing it...end plates are cheap....a rifle shitting the bed on you sucks...just stake it
This is great advice ! There is no downsides to staking a castle nut but there are for not staking it. My first time staking one I tried to use some random small punch I had in a punch set. If your going to do this make sure you get a decent sized center punch. You will get much better results.
I know I’m replying 6 months later lol but man I’m in a little predicament. My buffer tube is kinda wiggly, if I stake my castle nut, will it stop the wiggling of the buffer tube?
@@matt.undisclosed what do you mean wiggly? As in the thread interface is loose? If so then it’s the incorrect size for your threads which is pretty common. I recommend Vltor A5 buffer kits, they are slightly oversized
Uncle Cleatus said to just install it dry so it will corrode. "natures Loctite, next to cross-threading" Then once you're done lay it on the bench and smash it with a BFH so it's all oval and cant unscrew. I prefer to stake mine though. Wish I had ordered a few forward control nuts with order last night though.
The first time I've heard the arguments that makes perfect sense, thats why people should only listen and follow someone who is a gun smith not a random commentator thank you for a right to the point 👉 video.
Nothing against this vid. 99.99% solid. Unfortunately, some wizard did figure out how to weld aluminum to steel, though. I know, that sounds insane. I used to be an NDI/NDT guy, and I honestly didn't think it was possible. Then I did an ultrasound inspection on a tugboat that had an aluminum house welded (no shit, there I was) to a steel deck. But that's a tugboat, and I don't think anybody should be welding their gun parts together because that just doesn't make sense (for the reasons mentioned in the vid). Cool vid. Thanks. 🍻👍
Well, not everyone feels comfortable working on their firearm. I wouldn’t have an issue with it, but I also have no issue tearing in to my daily driver to do serious repairs like replacing brake calipers/wheel cylinders (done both) and I’m not a professional auto mechanic. How often do you see a Corvette/Mustang/Viper etc owner that won’t even try to change their own oil? Similar idea here. I see your point, but there are rational people who would take their AR in to tighten a castle nut. Besides, it does take a “special tool” that some people don’t own.
Here I am attempting to remove a staked castle on a brand new ar15, and I can sit on the wrench (250+lbs) and the damn thing won't budge. I am starting to genuinely wonder if they somehow welded it on there from the inside somehow.
End plates and castle nuts are cheap. Buy a new set and grab the Dremel with a thin cutting bit to remove the burs/staking. If it doesn’t come off easily after that use some heat, they may have used a locking agent. Cheers
I have a question, my friend knows alot about guns, especially ar15s. Ive always staked my castle nuts but I wanted to try the the PWS ratcheting castle nut with QD end plate. He said NO! I said the lantac instead? He said NO!, They are all junk... This is a combat Ar15... Is the PWS ratcheting castle nut & end plate worth it and hold up in combat or should I just stake it? I don't wanna die and be in hell thinking, d*knit! Should have staked it.. haha
I have built 8 ARs, everything from cheap PSA kits, to high end $3500 VLTOR builds, I would just stake it and call it good, staking takes about a minute to do
You said that marriage of the castle nut and the end plate is the only thing that prevents rotation of the buffer tube. But doesn't the buffer detent pin do that too?
For what it's worth I would never use loctite and always stake. I guess the argument can be made that the reciever has the spot that the reciever locks in to and the buffer tube has the channel so all 3 parts are married together and theoretically will only come loose if the castle nut does. By loctitng the nut it can't move and all 3 parts mechanical connection are held in place. But even if the scie ce is true fuck that and endplate is inexpensive and my fcd tube is not. Besides do it the right way
For range rifles will a proper torque of the castle nut suffice? I can see this being a good idea for hard used rifles but not sold on it being a thing on a range gun.
Doesn’t matter, after about 1,500 to 2,500 rounds I wouldn’t be surprised if it comes loose, why? Because gas blocks that aren’t dimpled come loose around this round count, so why wouldn’t a castle nut?
@@d.i.m.eproductions6925 Well...if a unstaked castle nut hasn't came loose from about 1993/1994 to 2022 it most likely isn't going to. You do realize it WASN'T really a thing until fairly recently right? Old Colt factory CAR15 telestocks even had a different style castle nut. It had a hole and no notches.
@@JohnDoeEagle1 imagine still trying to go on about this shit, ammunition has changed since then. Gas pressure has changed, everything has changed since then. You’re stuck in the old fudd ways.
@@d.i.m.eproductions6925 I'd say you are way off base thinking I am a fudd. I would suggest checking out my channel. I have been doing this over 40 years BTW.......by your comments a hell of a lot longer and more seriously than you.
My buffer tubes have a built in notch to prevent rotation. I get that staking is the proper way, but the notch prevents rotation. So how important is staking the castle nut when rotation is already not going to happen?
I'm an uncle Cletus, and I'd say it's fine with what you got . lol. joking aside, I take mine on and off pretty often, so I don't stake it. but I'd say.... every once in a while take a look to make sure the notches align still. at least after every range trip. on mind, I actually put a scar scratch on the underside to make sure they stay lined up. if they misalign... it's moving.
Rotation isn't going to happen unless the castle nut first gets loose. If it gets loose though, then the endplate will no longer be press fitted to the rear of the receiver and at that point, the tube can all turn together.
Ok, calling BS, the endplate tab and groove prevent the buffer tube from rotating regardless of staking. I'm not saying you shouldn't stake, and by all means, if you are building a gun or doing work for someone else, you should. But it is not the end of the world if you don't. In fact, sometimes you can't stake it, like the Strike Industries extended endplate/castle nut or the SB Tactical PDW brace that doesn't have a castle nut. As for locktite, I agree it is not a good idea I think you can get away with a VERY light application, but I had to replace an SB Tactical PDW buffer tube because I tried locktite, so be careful with it.
Staking the plate to the nut is all that keeps the receiver extension from rotating? All the AR rifles I ever put together have an end plate with a protruding nub that fits into a hole on the lower receiver, as well as a key that fits into a key slot in the extension, which keeps it from moving. As long as the nut is up against the end plate, it can't rotate. I do agree that you should stake it but if you're going to knock people for misinformation, don't go spreading it immediately afterwards. Otherwise a great video, I know you're awesome but some editing could have been done there.
That end plate "Key" that fits into the slot in the extension is only indexing on thin aluminum threads. The aluminum threads are not enough to keep the tube from rotating especially if the stock experiences a hit or drop.
Ok, I admit I’m not a professional gunsmith, so go ahead and tell me to shut up. I am, however, a professional troubleshooter and builder. I have a good understanding of how mechanisms work. The staking prevents the castle nut from spinning during use and abuse of the weapon. That castle nut is what prevents the buffer tube, and ultimately the stock, from rotating. The castle nut would be called a “jam nut” in industry, it stops another threaded part from loosening. Usually the jam nut is enough to stop the main nut from moving, but since you have dissimilar metals involved, namely steel on the back plate and castle nut and aluminum on the receiver and buffer tube, that jam nut needs some help. Hence the staking. Lastly, since we are talking about a firearm, possibly one you may have to use to defend your life, it makes sense to do everything you can to make it reliable. Any argument against staking, other than an aftermarket ratcheting unit (I don’t recall the name or maker), is silly.
Used a Vietnamese era m16 in basic training and beat the shit out of our only to shoot 36 or of 40 every time, and always hit my 300 meters, never staked
Red loctite, breaks loose with heat applied, it then cleans up quite nice. Not sure of the temp required but most any heat gun can do it and nothing gets damaged.
Hopeless I watched it, I just don’t agree, for a civilian using a rifle for home defense, the range any general light duty use, a little lock tight on the loser receiver threads and then a little more on the extensions treads where the castle nut is works just fine. Mil spec is staking, but I have rifles that are going on 15 years with lock tight and no issues.
@Hopeless I’m not saying it’s right or wrong as everyone has there own opinion on the subject but Rock River Arms applies blue loctite to the castle nut. I used to be an FFL and purchased rifles in 120 lots for police department orders. I added single point sling adapters for some agencies and every rifle had blue thread adhesive applied on the buffer tube threads and castle nut threads from the manufacturer. One order came with red and I had to use a plumbing torch to add a little heat to remove the castle nut. I called and asked if they were all gonna start coming with red loctite on the castle nut and they said no they had just ran out of blue thread adhesive so they used red on this batch. I remember it vividly because I cussed them while heating over 100 rifles up to change the end plate single point sling adapter out. It took me three times longer to do it.
Thanks, and by the other comments, below, it needed to be said. I’ll take the advice of Chad from the School of the American Rifle over those sharing their opinions on RUclips, every time.
Just take a scribe and mark it,you can see if it starts backing,you have to put a massive amount of rounds to really justify staking,but you can do it if you want.
You shouldn't stake your castle nut until after you do your first test fire and battle zero. As a general rule unless you are using your AR for a pole vault or throwing it out of a moving truck the castle nut usually won't come loose. I speak from heavy experience 1994 - 2022 when I say that. If you want to do it for piece of mind that isn't a bad thing. But unless you beat your equipment to shit they never come loose provided they were properly tightened to approx 30 ft/lbs to start with.
@@d.i.m.eproductions6925 BCM isn't the end all be all brands. They also all well known to over torque barrel nuts and fit A2 FSB taper pins WAY too tight.
@@JohnDoeEagle1 ok let me rephrase, I guess all mid to high end AR companies out there should hire you to save them money, because staking isn’t needed. Should contact Noveske and HK to hire you.
@@Superplums Mr. Cletus to you..... I'd charge you double for building on upper if you didn't address me as "Mr." ..... We have manners in the south. 😉👍
i have been trained by the U.S. Army, and i can shoot a 6inch group at half a mile..... i have never staked my castle and never had an issue, you sir do not know what your talking about
Agree with you, always stake your castle nuts, spring loaded center punches are not expensive. and never, ever use Loctite.
By far, the best and no BS video on AR staking. Answers all my questions on the matter. Thank you!
What finally sold me on staking it was when i looked to see how much a basic endplate costs. Its only about 5 bucks. So if you need to remove the buffer and want a nice clean finish when you re assemble you can buy a new plate for just a few bucks.
Just built my first AR and completely missed this step but I’ll be fixing it before my next range day. Thanks for the info!
Its not totally necessary you wont see it in factory guns but if your never planning on stock on a buffer tube for a proprietary stock why not. Its a good assurance.
@@Owwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww not only would I posit that it is absolutely necessary on any serious-use gun, but it's also quite easy to break the staking in the case you want to change your buffer tube or end plate
If you plan on removing the castle nut for whatever reason I recommend a PWS Ratcheting castle nut and Endplate. They lock on nice and tight without any need for a punch and have never backed off on me, looks real good on the gun and the extra QD mount is nice touch.
I removed a staked BCM castle nut. Wow, used a breaker bar. BCM knows how to stake!!! 3 places. I hope to achieve half as good of a job once reassembled.
Just staked my home build using a center punch yesterday. Thanks for the tip and the awesome straight forward video.
I went with the PWS ratcheting system on two of my guns. I really like it.
Thank you for the information. Building my first AR in CA cause there are no good quality complete lowers being shipped here and will definitely learn how to stake mine.
I appreciate these videos. Because of my child’s extra needs I won’t ever be able to buy a SOL blaster. BUTTT what I’ve been doing is following along with your recommendations and buying SOLGW parts, when I can, so I can have as close to quality as I can. I’ve been shooting since I was four, dad was a Marine range master and shooting is literally my therapy-in the most of literal meanings. And no I didn’t bring up my child to bitch or pander, just to explain that it’s not because I’m a bum or some shit. Thanks Mike, I really appreciate your constant input and teachings
I appreciate and admire your dedication to your child. Much more important than a Gucci AR. I just took your explanation as just that, an explanation. God bless.
I just tried to upgrade an old DMPS buffer tube to a mil-spec one and I think it was lock-tite'd Had to use a Dremel to get the bloody thing off. I installed the new buffer tube and did stake it in two places. Red Locktite sucks on AR15s.
deffinately nervous about staking my first castle nut...was using the lantac RPS which i love..wish me luck. its on a Radian endplate xD
What's your thoughts on the pws end plate/castle nut? I was thinking about putting it on my current build
I agree that the castle nut should be stacked...but one thing stated that I take question with is...the nut would have to get loose BEFORE the tube could turn...as it would need enough slack for the endplate to also turn, as the endplate is fitted into the rear of the receiver. The tube cannot turn if it is all tight...so once it is tight, stake it...and it will stay that way.
I have been to quite a few carbine classes...the number 1 failure i have seen is receiver extensions rotating which sent buffer detents and springs into the internals of the rifle rendering them inoperable...most were home builds but a couple were cheap ARs...people come up with lame excuses for not doing it...end plates are cheap....a rifle shitting the bed on you sucks...just stake it
Well said and i couldn't agree more !
This is great advice ! There is no downsides to staking a castle nut but there are for not staking it. My first time staking one I tried to use some random small punch I had in a punch set. If your going to do this make sure you get a decent sized center punch. You will get much better results.
My buffer tube actually backed off on me at the range before, almost lost my takedown pin spring haha stake your castle!
I know I’m replying 6 months later lol but man I’m in a little predicament. My buffer tube is kinda wiggly, if I stake my castle nut, will it stop the wiggling of the buffer tube?
@@matt.undisclosed tighten your castle nut and stake it
@@Mackahroney thanks
@@matt.undisclosed what do you mean wiggly? As in the thread interface is loose? If so then it’s the incorrect size for your threads which is pretty common. I recommend Vltor A5 buffer kits, they are slightly oversized
Thank you for the info. Just subbed because of the honest info. Keep up the good work.
I AGREE! 👍 .. Albeit I'm using the PWS plate/CN system 😁
Uncle Cleatus said to just install it dry so it will corrode. "natures Loctite, next to cross-threading" Then once you're done lay it on the bench and smash it with a BFH so it's all oval and cant unscrew. I prefer to stake mine though. Wish I had ordered a few forward control nuts with order last night though.
The first time I've heard the arguments that makes perfect sense, thats why people should only listen and follow someone who is a gun smith not a random commentator thank you for a right to the point 👉 video.
But there'll be a dent in muh gun!
Excellent valuable information 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
I just finished up a couple new ARs. I waited to stake th castle nuts until I did a couple test firings. Then I snugged them up and staked them.
Always stake. 2 places. Why - it’s easy and not permanent. And it’s under $3 to replace the end plate should u have to remove the nut.
Never! I would never harm my Radian ADAC.
Texas! Great work guys!
Thank you sir for the information and kick ass music.
What are your thoughts on the PWS ratcheting system? I put it on my Aero build in 2016.
Nothing against this vid. 99.99% solid.
Unfortunately, some wizard did figure out how to weld aluminum to steel, though.
I know, that sounds insane. I used to be an NDI/NDT guy, and I honestly didn't think it was possible.
Then I did an ultrasound inspection on a tugboat that had an aluminum house welded (no shit, there I was) to a steel deck.
But that's a tugboat, and I don't think anybody should be welding their gun parts together because that just doesn't make sense (for the reasons mentioned in the vid).
Cool vid. Thanks. 🍻👍
Best explanation!
Nice! Thanks, Brother!
Nice. Thanks
Do people really send their gun into the shop to tighten a castle nut?
😂
The way people are today, I'd say definitely or most likely haha
Well, not everyone feels comfortable working on their firearm. I wouldn’t have an issue with it, but I also have no issue tearing in to my daily driver to do serious repairs like replacing brake calipers/wheel cylinders (done both) and I’m not a professional auto mechanic. How often do you see a Corvette/Mustang/Viper etc owner that won’t even try to change their own oil? Similar idea here. I see your point, but there are rational people who would take their AR in to tighten a castle nut. Besides, it does take a “special tool” that some people don’t own.
Some people don't have the castle nut wrench you Silly Billy
@@brettnixon8344 or any wrenches for that matter
This comments section is already crowded with the Cletuses.
thank you for your help
I need money, to buy more stuff from SOLGW. Hope they catch up on backorders and restock. I’m ready baby.
Totally agree.
What do you think about pws racheting system
What brand of buffer tubes do y’all use.??
I use VLTOR and BCM
@@d.i.m.eproductions6925 ok cool, I used BCM on my 13.7” SOLGW build as well.
They use a-5 buffer tubes made for them by vltor.
Here I am attempting to remove a staked castle on a brand new ar15, and I can sit on the wrench (250+lbs) and the damn thing won't budge. I am starting to genuinely wonder if they somehow welded it on there from the inside somehow.
End plates and castle nuts are cheap. Buy a new set and grab the Dremel with a thin cutting bit to remove the burs/staking. If it doesn’t come off easily after that use some heat, they may have used a locking agent. Cheers
Yeah that doesn’t sound like just a staking job, I agree with the other commenter, sounds like they used a locking agent of some sort
I have a question, my friend knows alot about guns, especially ar15s. Ive always staked my castle nuts but I wanted to try the the PWS ratcheting castle nut with QD end plate. He said NO! I said the lantac instead? He said NO!, They are all junk... This is a combat Ar15... Is the PWS ratcheting castle nut & end plate worth it and hold up in combat or should I just stake it? I don't wanna die and be in hell thinking, d*knit! Should have staked it.. haha
I have built 8 ARs, everything from cheap PSA kits, to high end $3500 VLTOR builds, I would just stake it and call it good, staking takes about a minute to do
I've used blue lock tight on my builds. Never tried to remove it though 🤞
I hope you only use it as a plinker
@@d.i.m.eproductions6925 it goes bang, every time
@@elbolillo2703 until one day it comes loose and you lose your detent spring in orbit
Amen.
Wish l could get an end plate
You said that marriage of the castle nut and the end plate is the only thing that prevents rotation of the buffer tube. But doesn't the buffer detent pin do that too?
@@LegionPrime I agree, as those pins break all the time.
For what it's worth I would never use loctite and always stake. I guess the argument can be made that the reciever has the spot that the reciever locks in to and the buffer tube has the channel so all 3 parts are married together and theoretically will only come loose if the castle nut does. By loctitng the nut it can't move and all 3 parts mechanical connection are held in place. But even if the scie ce is true fuck that and endplate is inexpensive and my fcd tube is not. Besides do it the right way
Staking is the price of being born, like a belly button. It is not blemished or damaged... this is a glorious event. You should rejoice.
Uncle Cletus lmfao
For range rifles will a proper torque of the castle nut suffice? I can see this being a good idea for hard used rifles but not sold on it being a thing on a range gun.
Doesn’t matter, after about 1,500 to 2,500 rounds I wouldn’t be surprised if it comes loose, why? Because gas blocks that aren’t dimpled come loose around this round count, so why wouldn’t a castle nut?
@@d.i.m.eproductions6925
Well...if a unstaked castle nut hasn't came loose from about 1993/1994 to 2022 it most likely isn't going to. You do realize it WASN'T really a thing until fairly recently right? Old Colt factory CAR15 telestocks even had a different style castle nut. It had a hole and no notches.
@@JohnDoeEagle1 imagine still trying to go on about this shit, ammunition has changed since then. Gas pressure has changed, everything has changed since then. You’re stuck in the old fudd ways.
@@d.i.m.eproductions6925
I'd say you are way off base thinking I am a fudd. I would suggest checking out my channel. I have been doing this over 40 years BTW.......by your comments a hell of a lot longer and more seriously than you.
@@JohnDoeEagle1 I will call you whatever I like.
My buffer tubes have a built in notch to prevent rotation. I get that staking is the proper way, but the notch prevents rotation. So how important is staking the castle nut when rotation is already not going to happen?
I'm an uncle Cletus, and I'd say it's fine with what you got . lol. joking aside, I take mine on and off pretty often, so I don't stake it. but I'd say.... every once in a while take a look to make sure the notches align still. at least after every range trip. on mind, I actually put a scar scratch on the underside to make sure they stay lined up. if they misalign... it's moving.
Rotation isn't going to happen unless the castle nut first gets loose. If it gets loose though, then the endplate will no longer be press fitted to the rear of the receiver and at that point, the tube can all turn together.
Kac doesn't stake castlenuts
#Noveske stakes all their castle nuts. Makes me think it’s the only way to go unless you have a ratcheting castle nut like PWS has.
All of my castle nuts are properly staked.
just staked the crap out of my castle nut
Ok, calling BS, the endplate tab and groove prevent the buffer tube from rotating regardless of staking. I'm not saying you shouldn't stake, and by all means, if you are building a gun or doing work for someone else, you should. But it is not the end of the world if you don't. In fact, sometimes you can't stake it, like the Strike Industries extended endplate/castle nut or the SB Tactical PDW brace that doesn't have a castle nut. As for locktite, I agree it is not a good idea I think you can get away with a VERY light application, but I had to replace an SB Tactical PDW buffer tube because I tried locktite, so be careful with it.
Staking the plate to the nut is all that keeps the receiver extension from rotating? All the AR rifles I ever put together have an end plate with a protruding nub that fits into a hole on the lower receiver, as well as a key that fits into a key slot in the extension, which keeps it from moving. As long as the nut is up against the end plate, it can't rotate. I do agree that you should stake it but if you're going to knock people for misinformation, don't go spreading it immediately afterwards. Otherwise a great video, I know you're awesome but some editing could have been done there.
That end plate "Key" that fits into the slot in the extension is only indexing on thin aluminum threads. The aluminum threads are not enough to keep the tube from rotating especially if the stock experiences a hit or drop.
ruclips.net/video/8WTw4Lp_TRo/видео.html
@@voparzginsburg3223 bullshit
Ok, I admit I’m not a professional gunsmith, so go ahead and tell me to shut up. I am, however, a professional troubleshooter and builder. I have a good understanding of how mechanisms work. The staking prevents the castle nut from spinning during use and abuse of the weapon. That castle nut is what prevents the buffer tube, and ultimately the stock, from rotating. The castle nut would be called a “jam nut” in industry, it stops another threaded part from loosening. Usually the jam nut is enough to stop the main nut from moving, but since you have dissimilar metals involved, namely steel on the back plate and castle nut and aluminum on the receiver and buffer tube, that jam nut needs some help. Hence the staking. Lastly, since we are talking about a firearm, possibly one you may have to use to defend your life, it makes sense to do everything you can to make it reliable. Any argument against staking, other than an aftermarket ratcheting unit (I don’t recall the name or maker), is silly.
Used a Vietnamese era m16 in basic training and beat the shit out of our only to shoot 36 or of 40 every time, and always hit my 300 meters, never staked
Red loctite, breaks loose with heat applied, it then cleans up quite nice. Not sure of the temp required but most any heat gun can do it and nothing gets damaged.
Hopeless I watched it, I just don’t agree, for a civilian using a rifle for home defense, the range any general light duty use, a little lock tight on the loser receiver threads and then a little more on the extensions treads where the castle nut is works just fine. Mil spec is staking, but I have rifles that are going on 15 years with lock tight and no issues.
@Hopeless He didn’t say anything about using blue loctite.
@Hopeless I’m not saying it’s right or wrong as everyone has there own opinion on the subject but Rock River Arms applies blue loctite to the castle nut. I used to be an FFL and purchased rifles in 120 lots for police department orders. I added single point sling adapters for some agencies and every rifle had blue thread adhesive applied on the buffer tube threads and castle nut threads from the manufacturer. One order came with red and I had to use a plumbing torch to add a little heat to remove the castle nut. I called and asked if they were all gonna start coming with red loctite on the castle nut and they said no they had just ran out of blue thread adhesive so they used red on this batch. I remember it vividly because I cussed them while heating over 100 rifles up to change the end plate single point sling adapter out. It took me three times longer to do it.
Yep I remove red loctite all the time with my heat gun
Thanks, and by the other comments, below, it needed to be said. I’ll take the advice of Chad from the School of the American Rifle over those sharing their opinions on RUclips, every time.
So Alpha
Just take a scribe and mark it,you can see if it starts backing,you have to put a massive amount of rounds to really justify staking,but you can do it if you want.
You shouldn't stake your castle nut until after you do your first test fire and battle zero. As a general rule unless you are using your AR for a pole vault or throwing it out of a moving truck the castle nut usually won't come loose. I speak from heavy experience 1994 - 2022 when I say that. If you want to do it for piece of mind that isn't a bad thing. But unless you beat your equipment to shit they never come loose provided they were properly tightened to approx 30 ft/lbs to start with.
Wow, I guess BCM has been wasting valuable time and resources staking all of their castle nuts, they should hire you so they save money.
@@d.i.m.eproductions6925
BCM isn't the end all be all brands. They also all well known to over torque barrel nuts and fit A2 FSB taper pins WAY too tight.
@@JohnDoeEagle1 at what point did I ever say it was? Oh right you’re cherry picking without knowing all of the facts
@@JohnDoeEagle1 ok let me rephrase, I guess all mid to high end AR companies out there should hire you to save them money, because staking isn’t needed. Should contact Noveske and HK to hire you.
@@d.i.m.eproductions6925
John Noveske is dead BTW.....died in 2013 in a Jeep accident!
242 blue Thread locker on the end plate and castle nut
Did you watch the video?
FOUND THE CLETUS!😂
@@Lumens1 Yes. I build AR's all day everyday.
@@Superplums Mr. Cletus to you..... I'd charge you double for building on upper if you didn't address me as "Mr." ..... We have manners in the south. 😉👍
Captain America rewatch the video.
Staking is outdated.
So what so people do now instead of staking
i have been trained by the U.S. Army, and i can shoot a 6inch group at half a mile..... i have never staked my castle and never had an issue, you sir do not know what your talking about
@@LegionPrime says you (I wasn't alone)
@@s1krrpilot oh wow, I came across this gem. You are either the best fire retardant I have ever came across, or you’re trolling
Amen.