I had 2 castle nuts back off, one on a factory Delton and one on a rifle I put together. I since then, I will always stake. I use the Harbor Freight center punch starter tool. It works PERFECT.
I love the transparency and education on doing things right. I’m building my first rifle and it’s a Scalper lower. Gonna pick up the upper soon (I know a place and I’m not saying until I get what I need. I know...selfish.) and deciding on what barrel/caliber I will go with soon. I would love a video on your position/advise on lapping the upper receiver, especially with your level of QC on your parts. Sorry if I’ve missed that in a video. Much respect to you guys and your outright support of the country, military and especially law enforcement in the times we are in today. I’ve got many friends who have served in both capacities. As a Texan I’m proud of you guys.
Get a automotive spring loaded center punch from harbor freight. Perfect staking every time. No hammer or vice needed. In Afghanistan one of our guys had a gunners mate install a qd sling end plate. They didnt stake it and a few months in it came loose. Luckily when it was not a critical time
Glad to see this comment. I'm just finishing up a new build and just happened to see one of these at HF and thought I bet that might work and picked it up. Haven't used it yet but at least I know it'll work.
Smart bunch of guys. I too did NOT want to use loctite and and DID use white lithium grease to prevent galling. Steel and aluminum over time do not live well together.
On a few cheaper castles nuts there's no cut at an angle there to stake into, it's an actual cut out small section, a lot better to get more metal in there.... Just need a end plate that isn't black and then silver circles where you stake it....
More great info, definitely staying tuned for more. Awesome sound detailed info and gun shit broken down for the FNG (Fuckin New Guy) like me. Keep em comin team SOLGW. 🤙🏽
I've never understood why people don't stake their castle nuts. It's SOOOOOOOOOOOO easy to do and doesn't take much time. Even if you're not that good with a hammer and punch, many a gun guy in your town will help you out. I remember when I lost my VERY expensive punch set during moving (thank god I finally found it) Brian over at Sionics was kind enough to stake two nuts for me at no charge when I was buying an upper from them. peace of mind
A lot of people don't stake because they like swapping out different stocks and RE tubes, and staking is a hinderance to that process. Besides, if you torque it down properly to a true 40 ft-lbs the castle nut is never going to move under regular use/operation anyway. Think about it... are you ever worried about your barrel nut or muzzle device coming loose? Staking was a CYA requirement implemented by the military, just like the useless forward assist (which Stoner always hated). Just because the military demands it doesn't mean it's improving performance.
@@jamesr792Are you for real? There are plenty of barrel nuts that don’t use a slot or groove for the gas tube… They just sit on top. Saying you don’t know anything about AR15s without saying you don’t know anything about AR15s.
@@sooperknob I have built a total of one AR. I own a few. They all have the slot. I’m a reasonably experienced shooter but by no means either an expert or a gunsmith.
My first AR purchase was a Bear Creek Arsenal, the castle nut isn't staked. It's driving me crazy because I can hand tighten it myself. Makes it feel cheap.
Awesome vid. I thought my LMT castle nuts were awesome (they are) but I need to check out Forward Controls now. Mike, I'd love to see the opening of a .070 to a .073 on a 10.3/10.5. I want the wifeys personal to eat damn near everything suppressed or not without destroying itself in 6 months. Thanks for the new vids!
The only thing I can complain about is on the factory guns. The gas block is not pinned, there is a spot on the gas block for a pin through the barrel but no pin is installed. I figured that would be done considering the reputation of SOLGW
I bought my BCM castle nut last night, hopefully it gets here soon. Came to youtube to make sure I know how to install it, and first video for "castle nut install" is by SOLGW, and it was uploaded just a couple months ago? I can't think of anyone I'd rather learn from.
What blu-ing compound do you prefer on the fresh metal left by the punch and do you tighten the castle nut to 38 lbs/ft or less (you mentioned the spec of 38 - 40 was bordering on excessive)? Thanks for all the great rifles and thanks for honest, calorie dense content.
how come he swtiched punches? Is a regular 5/32 center punch ok to use? going to try this for the first time soon...all the lantac RPS are out of stock lol
I use a Starrett spring punch when I build a rifle. Nice not need a third hand and just holt the rifle in one hand and the punch in the other with no hammer! 🤙🏼 Love these vids
Which ar-15 & ar-9 lower vise blocks do you recommend ? Along with the ar-15 various choices of upper / lower combinations in the marketplace ? Have you found one made of nylon or carbon fiber ? Thanks
Anyone ever have problems with the buffer tube not straight plum when tightening castor nut ? Seems like I only have this problem on one lower. Starting to think the buffer tub is a piece of crap
Yes, because there is sometimes a little play between the tab on the end plate that slides into the slot on the buffer tube. Also, under extreme torque I've seen the tube rotate and the threads get cut by the end plate tab. Of course, that was on a cheapo tube when it happened. However, I've even had some slight rotation on BCM or other high quality parts. Just look at rifles you built and see if the stock is perfectly parallel to the grip. A few of mine were slightly canted. I ended up buying a Geissele Reaction Block and I use that along with a few coins to put the lower receiver and the Geissele block in my vise. Keeps it perfectly straight when you are tightening the castle nut. VISM/NCStar also makes a vise block that's much cheaper. Check out School of the American Rifle here on RUclips for some videos on the topic.
Love these videos, learned a lot from you guys at SOLGW. What about a video like this on headspace, measuring headspace, etc.? That's kind of another 'mystical' internet conversation that appears to go all over the place.
Yeah, got it... I like stake. Q: Why can't I place two caslte nuts on an AR... tighten the first one down to spec... using the 2nd to apply pressure to the first keeping it inplace?
Myth, staking is not necessary period. Periodic maintenance especially after a shoot, as you should if castle nut loosens (and it shouldn’t) you can simply tighten it up as with any loosening nut. Loosening usually occurs after 2-3 thousand rounds. So, moral to the story and 30 AR’s later stake if you want, but not necessary-
sounds like a bunch of shit you just made up for comment section klout ... I'll listen to Mike who has built a reputation for quality, built 1000x more than you claim, and who has exponentially more credibility than some basement gamer clown such as yourself... grow the fuck up
I got a complete pistol lower from psa awhile back but it never came with the castle nut, the pistol tube was already installed on there. I ran it with no problems but im noticing that im supposed to have one? It's never walked out on me or anything but I'm being told I should have one
if you have a pistol buffer tube on there from PSA (meaning all the way round, no notches for a buttstock to ride in) then it's only DESIGNED to be torqued down and never staked. no nut required. Not the most secure design, but if yours isn't backing out then whatever
I am build my first AR. But I gotta say it: doesn’t seems like a archaic design? Like you literally deform the metal to secure a nut? Bro haha. Still building mine though
Drew Baglin who would have thought... men and women using hand tools.. and some “nascar companies” who have robots can’t even get a simple stake right... yes we do it by hand..
yes, you're staking the end plant INTO the notches on the castle nut. You can re-use a nut if you want/need. However, they'r SOOOO cheap I just personally replace them every time unless it's a cheap range toy.
Threads aren’t getting damaged at all when you back out that castle nut. The moved material from the punched endplate will roll/fold back into the endplate when you loosen the castle nut.
I had 2 castle nuts back off, one on a factory Delton and one on a rifle I put together. I since then, I will always stake. I use the Harbor Freight center punch starter tool. It works PERFECT.
I'm glad you mentioned lithium grease. I started using that stuff on a whim, and it worked so I stuck with it
Dropping that sweet knowledge on us. Perfect timing, just got a whole stack of yours and FCD parts in for my build this weekend
I love the transparency and education on doing things right. I’m building my first rifle and it’s a Scalper lower. Gonna pick up the upper soon (I know a place and I’m not saying until I get what I need. I know...selfish.) and deciding on what barrel/caliber I will go with soon. I would love a video on your position/advise on lapping the upper receiver, especially with your level of QC on your parts. Sorry if I’ve missed that in a video. Much respect to you guys and your outright support of the country, military and especially law enforcement in the times we are in today. I’ve got many friends who have served in both capacities. As a Texan I’m proud of you guys.
Get a automotive spring loaded center punch from harbor freight. Perfect staking every time. No hammer or vice needed. In Afghanistan one of our guys had a gunners mate install a qd sling end plate. They didnt stake it and a few months in it came loose. Luckily when it was not a critical time
Glad to see this comment. I'm just finishing up a new build and just happened to see one of these at HF and thought I bet that might work and picked it up. Haven't used it yet but at least I know it'll work.
Smart bunch of guys. I too did NOT want to use loctite and and DID use white lithium grease to prevent galling. Steel and aluminum over time do not live well together.
On a few cheaper castles nuts there's no cut at an angle there to stake into, it's an actual cut out small section, a lot better to get more metal in there.... Just need a end plate that isn't black and then silver circles where you stake it....
More great info, definitely staying tuned for more. Awesome sound detailed info and gun shit broken down for the FNG (Fuckin New Guy) like me. Keep em comin team SOLGW. 🤙🏽
I've never understood why people don't stake their castle nuts. It's SOOOOOOOOOOOO easy to do and doesn't take much time. Even if you're not that good with a hammer and punch, many a gun guy in your town will help you out. I remember when I lost my VERY expensive punch set during moving (thank god I finally found it) Brian over at Sionics was kind enough to stake two nuts for me at no charge when I was buying an upper from them. peace of mind
A lot of people don't stake because they like swapping out different stocks and RE tubes, and staking is a hinderance to that process.
Besides, if you torque it down properly to a true 40 ft-lbs the castle nut is never going to move under regular use/operation anyway. Think about it... are you ever worried about your barrel nut or muzzle device coming loose?
Staking was a CYA requirement implemented by the military, just like the useless forward assist (which Stoner always hated). Just because the military demands it doesn't mean it's improving performance.
@@sooperknobThe barrel nut won’t come loose because it’s held in by the gas tube….. otherwise it would need to be staked.
@@jamesr792Are you for real? There are plenty of barrel nuts that don’t use a slot or groove for the gas tube… They just sit on top.
Saying you don’t know anything about AR15s without saying you don’t know anything about AR15s.
@@sooperknob I have built a total of one AR. I own a few. They all have the slot. I’m a reasonably experienced shooter but by no means either an expert or a gunsmith.
My first AR purchase was a Bear Creek Arsenal, the castle nut isn't staked. It's driving me crazy because I can hand tighten it myself. Makes it feel cheap.
Awesome vid. I thought my LMT castle nuts were awesome (they are) but I need to check out Forward Controls now.
Mike, I'd love to see the opening of a
.070 to a .073 on a 10.3/10.5.
I want the wifeys personal to eat damn near everything suppressed or not without destroying itself in 6 months. Thanks for the new vids!
The only thing I can complain about is on the factory guns. The gas block is not pinned, there is a spot on the gas block for a pin through the barrel but no pin is installed. I figured that would be done considering the reputation of SOLGW
I like the double tap approach. 🔨💥🔨💥💥
Triple staked! Wow that forward controls castle nut is legit
I bought my BCM castle nut last night, hopefully it gets here soon. Came to youtube to make sure I know how to install it, and first video for "castle nut install" is by SOLGW, and it was uploaded just a couple months ago? I can't think of anyone I'd rather learn from.
Very cool. At the end did you squirt some loctite or something??
Blue Loctite for me.
Commenting to support the channel. Great video looking forward to the content ✊🇺🇸🇺🇸
What blu-ing compound do you prefer on the fresh metal left by the punch and do you tighten the castle nut to 38 lbs/ft or less (you mentioned the spec of 38 - 40 was bordering on excessive)? Thanks for all the great rifles and thanks for honest, calorie dense content.
Thanks for the content I’ve always staked rifles. I was curious to what your options are on the ratcheting end plates that I’ve seen recently
Negative ghost rider
Over did mine
When you treat with anti-sieze doesn't that reduce the torque value required?
how come he swtiched punches? Is a regular 5/32 center punch ok to use? going to try this for the first time soon...all the lantac RPS are out of stock lol
Galling is not as much of a problem as torque value, when using grease. Staking in at least two places, three is better. Good job..
I'll Never miss a passage from saint mike. Can I get an amen?
Amen
Amen
And awomen.
@@mikey354 hahaha, I fucking died!!
Ive never used anti seize on the castle nut. Only to the barrel nut. I guess i should start putting it on the castle nut as well.
I use a Starrett spring punch when I build a rifle. Nice not need a third hand and just holt the rifle in one hand and the punch in the other with no hammer! 🤙🏼 Love these vids
Starret tools are 🔥
I linked everyone asking how to do it in our recent video, to this video.
Which ar-15 & ar-9 lower vise blocks do you recommend ? Along with the ar-15 various choices of upper / lower combinations in the marketplace ? Have you found one made of nylon or carbon fiber ? Thanks
Thanks for the video. What size punches do you use?
Do you need different size wrenches depending on whether or not you have Mil spec or commercial buffer tubes?
Anyone ever have problems with the buffer tube not straight plum when tightening castor nut ? Seems like I only have this problem on one lower. Starting to think the buffer tub is a piece of crap
Yes, because there is sometimes a little play between the tab on the end plate that slides into the slot on the buffer tube. Also, under extreme torque I've seen the tube rotate and the threads get cut by the end plate tab. Of course, that was on a cheapo tube when it happened. However, I've even had some slight rotation on BCM or other high quality parts. Just look at rifles you built and see if the stock is perfectly parallel to the grip. A few of mine were slightly canted. I ended up buying a Geissele Reaction Block and I use that along with a few coins to put the lower receiver and the Geissele block in my vise. Keeps it perfectly straight when you are tightening the castle nut. VISM/NCStar also makes a vise block that's much cheaper. Check out School of the American Rifle here on RUclips for some videos on the topic.
When your torquing your castlenut what do you prefer to use to hold the gun? Something like a Magwell Vise block??
Love these videos, learned a lot from you guys at SOLGW. What about a video like this on headspace, measuring headspace, etc.? That's kind of another 'mystical' internet conversation that appears to go all over the place.
what punches is he using? those are legit
I thought is was torqued to about 40 INCH pounds
I guess you guys know what your doing...lol! Thanks for this info
Yeah, got it... I like stake. Q: Why can't I place two caslte nuts on an AR... tighten the first one down to spec... using the 2nd to apply pressure to the first keeping it inplace?
Thanks for the help!
How do you keep the tube straight when tightening it?
The quick detach plate has a tooth that keeps the tube and lower lined up while you’re torquing.
I measured the angle and I made a tool that is angled to stake the FCD on my lowers it is a hardened tool steel punch
Just take a file to it if you need more staking area
Do you torque the castle nut?
where can I buy that center punch?
Good stuff. Thanks for the video!
So I’d assume copper anti seize is ok?. Ima run with it.
What's the stuff being applied after the staking? At the 4:00 mark
I would be interested to know which two punches are being used for the task.
Duck Commander in the Background!
should you have to remove the castle nut for a repair, how hard is it to remove it once you already staked it?
Myth, staking is not necessary period.
Periodic maintenance especially after a shoot, as you should if castle nut loosens (and it shouldn’t) you can simply tighten it up as with any loosening nut. Loosening usually occurs after 2-3 thousand rounds. So, moral to the story and 30 AR’s later stake if you want, but not necessary-
sounds like a bunch of shit you just made up for comment section klout ... I'll listen to Mike who has built a reputation for quality, built 1000x more than you claim, and who has exponentially more credibility than some basement gamer clown such as yourself... grow the fuck up
Bought a DPMS and it did not have those marks on the castle nut. So I loosened it up, added red loctite, and tightened it up. Problem solved.
Little pp go big PP
What bluing stick are you using to recolor the bare metal?
I would like to know as well.
Your question answers mine. Was wondering what he was filling it with. Makes sense.
When are you going to have stuff in stock?
SigBoy 1911 no one does 😢
Nitride parts next to phosphate parts are just hideous.
I got a complete pistol lower from psa awhile back but it never came with the castle nut, the pistol tube was already installed on there. I ran it with no problems but im noticing that im supposed to have one? It's never walked out on me or anything but I'm being told I should have one
if you have a pistol buffer tube on there from PSA (meaning all the way round, no notches for a buttstock to ride in) then it's only DESIGNED to be torqued down and never staked. no nut required. Not the most secure design, but if yours isn't backing out then whatever
What is your opinion on the PWS ratcheting system?
Seems like there should be a better way to prevent loosening.
Can I order your lowers with the end plate that has the QD attachment?
What size punches do you recommend?
Just use a Fortis K2 that is self locking.
I am build my first AR. But I gotta say it: doesn’t seems like a archaic design? Like you literally deform the metal to secure a nut? Bro haha. Still building mine though
So y’all do staking by hand not machine?
Drew Baglin who would have thought... men and women using hand tools.. and some “nascar companies” who have robots can’t even get a simple stake right... yes we do it by hand..
Is there any disadvantage to overtorquing the nut? I can't think of any besides summoning the ire of internet commandos..
possibly weakening or stripping the threads. I've seen it happen
Can a castle nut be reused and staked
yes, you're staking the end plant INTO the notches on the castle nut. You can re-use a nut if you want/need. However, they'r SOOOO cheap I just personally replace them every time unless it's a cheap range toy.
Sing the song of St Eugene Stoner!!!
But you destroying the threads on the buffer tube if you ever want the castle nut off 🤔 easyer to putt a tiny drop loctite on it.
Threads aren’t getting damaged at all when you back out that castle nut. The moved material from the punched endplate will roll/fold back into the endplate when you loosen the castle nut.
First ,Thanks for the content
Baby Jesus
🦆
38-42lbs
just buy SOLGW.
For some reason my castle nuts and end plates get surface rust on it. Is there a way to prevent this? Thanks.