Several people have commented saying I used the Torque Wrench wrong. They are applying rules without understanding the reasoning for the rule. The M16/M4 - 23&P Manual shows (With Pictures) the USGI Adapter being used inline with a Torque Wrench. Why is this when the experts claim it's wrong? It's because the torque values listed in the 23&P Manual (38-42 FT#) take that into account. When the USGI Adaptor is being used inline, the leverage it creates is part of the formula. The USGI Adaptors over the past 60 years have the same amount of distance between the torque wrench keyway and the centerline of the tools workpiece. I know because I own them all and have and tested them. Inline vs 90 degree value is less than 3 ft# for the USGI Adaptor and for this particular Tool and application. Notice how I set the wrench to the middle value (38-42 ft#)? My Torque Wrench was just calibrated and is accurate to -3%. That specific torque value was also important because in the past the castle nut was tightened with fixtures that didn't lock the receiver extension and lower into a solid fixture. Too much torque would cause the receiver extension to rip past it's keyway and cause clocking and damage to the tube. With better fixtures (as shown in this video) a higher torque value will not allow damage because the receiver extension and lower are in forced alignment.
@@Doomer17018, for some folks, probably. For others, it's because stopping perpetuation of bad/damaging techniques is important (YES, I fully understand is NOT the case here).
My day is made...as enginerdial as many of us are, I'm surprised no one has come out with a staking jig up until now. Yes, I know it's a simple process with a punch, but I know it's taken me a few castle nuts to get good stakes "most" of the time. Most of us aren't staking castle nuts day in and day out so this jig looks like a great way to get good stakes. Kudos to your student for creating something that truly solves a problem.
The alignment jig is the best part. Perhaps the developer will make one that aligns to milspec castle nuts at some point. Excellent product for those planning several new builds, but tough for existing. I actually prefer the non auto punch staking tool as well for whatever reason…so a single jig would be an excellent add to the bench 👍🇺🇸
I believe you can adjust the tension spring on the center punch to increase the striking force. Righty tighty. Lefty loosey. At least you can on my starrett auto punch.
Excellent tool and video. Only comment would be to use the wrench at 90 deg from the extension so you don't increase torque being applied from the extra length.
Awhile back I purchased a complete lower from Palmetto State Armory. It was suppose to be a non blem item but it turned out to be a blem item and a bad blem at that. It also turned out that the staking of the castle nut was horrible. With this armorer's kit I feel comfortable fixing the issue myself. Chad, I can't thank you enough for showcasing this unique item. Kudos to the individual for offering this and making life as a builder that much easier.
This is exactly the type of thing that makes homebuilds better. Sure, most people won't have machining capabilities but if you get parts from reputable manufacturers and you gauge them, you can have a rifle set up that meets and exceeds milspec. There is no reason, not to do this. I will definitely be adding this tool to my line up.
Very cool, the requirement for a proprietary castle nut is a bit of a turn-off. It is basically a locating punch jig. But kudos to them. The use of the Geissele receiver extension holder makes this task very simple.
I like little inventions like this. My only recommendation, for version two of their product, is to angle it just a little bit, just a wee little bit, so that it puts a little bit more focus on moving material in the direction of the notch. Other than that, I like the idea.
That tool is amazing and you are an exceptional armorer. Subscribed! I have assembled 20+ ARs and your attention to detail is top notch and I learned from you already! Thank you.
Just an idea for a future video. I'd love to see you do an evaluation of Anderson's RF85 treatment and how it compares to other friction reducing treatments and coatings. Love the channel and thanks for all the content you put out.
I bought the EZ starter kit for $20.00 bucks, and now I have a professional looking, perfectly staked castle nut on my first ever AR 7.62x39 build. What a brilliantly simple tool that takes all the guess work out of staking your castle nut. 🎉🎉🎉 Three cheers and a cold beer for SOTAR!!!!
Thanks Chad, another great video. A couple firsts for me here, contemplating a drunk woodpecker’s actions was not one I expected to hear, but it was a well executed analogy. Kudos to drunk woodpeckers and great analogies..
Good quick demo and review. Please review the Forward Controls CN5F Extended Castle Nut. More thread engagement and coverage. Is it stronger and any better than mil-spec?
The only bad part of this jig in my opinion is it's a proprietary tool. Should've just designed it to work with milspec castle nuts. Then maybe he could've designed a different castle nut that works with it and sold that as well if he wanted to.
Beautiful video, thanks for sharing, could you tell me you wonderful vise jig, the green one, that holds everything in line, I want to purchase one. Thank you very much
Awesome castle nut staking kit, awesome design: However I dont want to come off like a troll, but I would have to iterate, that it is not worth the $85. price tag being asked, especially for a proprietary castle but and jig, and those of us that are not staking a daily multitude of castle nuts, you could most likely piece together that whole kit except the jig, for the price of the jig. Just saying
Very cool tool, very good tutorial. But i do have a question. Have you ever seen issues from a badly staked buffer extention tube? To me it seems like even single stake is more than enough to hold it for a lifetime of abuse. Maybe i have rose colored glasses on, but ive never had a single issue with a castle nut backing off. Perhaps im just staking properly...
The receiver extension tube doesn’t need to be staked, only the castle nut that generates axial pressure between it and the lower (via the endplate which acts as a spacer between the two). Castle nut staking is a plastic deformation of the endplate metal that fixes the endplate’s rotation relative to the castle nut. (and the endplate in turn already has its rotation mechanically fixed relative to the lower) The expectable forces that could rotate the castle nut relative to the endplate are at worst what we would colloquially call “jiggling”. That’s it. Literally all we’re trying to do is control jiggling. We’re just doing so on a machine that’s pretty good at jiggling things. The only function of staking is to offer a degree of mechanical obstruction to Jiggling Rotation that is: - greater than our arbitrary thread friction and/or adhesive can provide - less than would require irreversible welding So, staking merely introduces a mechanical barrier to rotation (forming a plasticly formed de facto lug) that a little jiggling won’t overcome even when adhesives and friction from axial thread pressure have failed to attest the jiggling. That is to say, as something that actually changes the Shape of (plasticly deforms) metal objects, castle nut staking doesn’t really have to accomplish much. Picture a glass mason jar with a notch in it that you can hammer a bit of the rim of the lid into. You can shake that jar as hard as you want forever, but you if you’ve hammered a bit of the lid’s edge into that notch, no matter what thread friction and adhesive you overcome with shaking, that lid is never gonna rotate relative to the glass, because it’s floating in between the sides of that notch. It offers rotational resistance, but not in a fight against any rotational force, only against jiggling. A minor torsional effort with a wrench can break a castle nut stake like it’s nothing, and that’s the way it should be, because it’s meant to be a small and reversible thing resisting far Smaller stresses. In fact that’s the reason we call so much attention to castle nut staking: because it accomplishes something so mechanically Minor that most people don’t even imagine it’s worth doing.
As long as the staking has moved enough material into the staking notch, it'll serve its purpose. Functionally, it doesn't matter how ugly it is, but Chad's a professional and cares about how his work looks. Understandably so.
That's a great jig; my first build went well but using a Starett punch I wasn't able to get it perfect, but at least I didn't bubba-gonsmif it (like nsz85). This is perfect for alignment then following up as you did at an angle without the jig. Agreed; would most definitely like to see a version that would work with milspec castle nuts.
I recently purchased a non AR related item and included in the package was one of the castle nut stickers. Naturally I checked out their website. I haven't bought a kit yet but will in the near future.
Very cool. Some of mine are ugly but they hold. I did order one of the spring loaded ones you pull back and let go to use on my next one, that'll help me a lot. I'll use a push-down one like this for my starting divot and then switch to the other for some more oomph.
Groovy little tool! Glad someone cam3 up with it cause I thoroughly enjoy tools that make my efforts easier & make my end result better. Cheers & Thank you! #SOTAR #SOLGW #ARJunkie
Shouldn't the castle nut wrench be 90 degrees from the torque wrench handle to achieve proper torque value? I always thought having it at any other angle would cause an incorrect reading.
@@SchooloftheAmericanRifleso I have learned a lot from your videos! More than I could once imagine that one day I’ll know so much about ar15’s. Please elaborate on what kinda problem or problems you are referring to?I have them in all my ar’s that I’ve built. 2 of them in particular have been run hard and somewhat abused. Never had a problem with them!
Never staked. Would like this kit. So what happens when you want to remove it? Does the end plate And the Castle nut just get ruined? Is it a pain to get off?
Nice! I don’t currently have any builds planned, but I’m ordering one of these for my next project, whenever it is. Question, though… where do you get that aeroshell grease in that handy container with a brush built into the lid? I’m used to little tubs and having to use an external brush or something that dries out or gets lost between uses… Thanks!
Aren't crows feet technically supposed to be 90 degrees perpendicular? I know it really doesn't matter with such a short crows foot here, or if there's just a few more ft lbs on the castle nut on an AR.
"Oh yeah look at that staking". haha I love it man, i was saying the same thing to myself. Thats one of those moments where my girlfriend would have turned to me and said "NNEEEEEERRRD". XD
@@retirednobaddays456 milspec calls for aeroshell grease on all threads of the AR as it is a steel to aluminum mating point and you want to try to prevent disimilar metal corrosion. I also have a fairly low trust point for antiseize and have had better luck in automotive applications that won't get super hot using regular chassis grease in place of antiseize. On exhaust etc. I use high temp aircraft grade antiseize and have never had a problem
Anyone know the diameter of the hole lol? I have a Starrett 18-C auto punch on order and hoping to order just the plastic piece but not sure if it’ll fit
best guess is that the barrel's alignment to the reciever and therefore the sights that are on the receiver is critical to maintain so even a TINY amount of play is no good but if the buttstock rotates an RCH it won't make much difference. That said if you want a solid reliable torque reading no one is stopping you from torquing and breaking everything loose 3x.
@@Asymmetrical.athlete_ I can see what you are saying but most other nuts and bolts I install aren't dissimilar metals with one of them being super soft (aluminum receiver) and I normally don't care if perhaps the thing the bolt is holding down is allowed to move a TINY amount. It is also just something that I was taught to do and I only do it maybe once every month or two so I don't see why it hurts to be super cautions while doing it.
@@Asymmetrical.athlete_ The book answer I have for the 3x torquing is the military TM. It states "Two time torquing (three times total) procedures provide for a better thread fit and prevents barrel nuts from becoming loose. Do not use the torque wrench for loosening." As for the practice in general in other applications I don't believe I have every seen it stated anywhere.
Several people have commented saying I used the Torque Wrench wrong. They are applying rules without understanding the reasoning for the rule.
The M16/M4 - 23&P Manual shows (With Pictures) the USGI Adapter being used inline with a Torque Wrench. Why is this when the experts claim it's wrong? It's because the torque values listed in the 23&P Manual (38-42 FT#) take that into account. When the USGI Adaptor is being used inline, the leverage it creates is part of the formula.
The USGI Adaptors over the past 60 years have the same amount of distance between the torque wrench keyway and the centerline of the tools workpiece. I know because I own them all and have and tested them.
Inline vs 90 degree value is less than 3 ft# for the USGI Adaptor and for this particular Tool and application.
Notice how I set the wrench to the middle value (38-42 ft#)? My Torque Wrench was just calibrated and is accurate to -3%.
That specific torque value was also important because in the past the castle nut was tightened with fixtures that didn't lock the receiver extension and lower into a solid fixture. Too much torque would cause the receiver extension to rip past it's keyway and cause clocking and damage to the tube.
With better fixtures (as shown in this video) a higher torque value will not allow damage because the receiver extension and lower are in forced alignment.
I don't give a damn what they say. I trust you before I trust them. Period!
lol people love to point out what they think is an error because it makes them feel smart.
@@Doomer17018, for some folks, probably. For others, it's because stopping perpetuation of bad/damaging techniques is important (YES, I fully understand is NOT the case here).
They'd really hate when I stick a castle nut wrench on there and wack it with a hammer.
G you don’t have to explain yourself to no one
The green jig everyone is asking about is the TechCo AR15 Receiver Extension Tube Jig.
Y'all are welcome.
Not all heroes wear capes
Holy flamin' shitballs that fuckin' thing's pricey.....
My day is made...as enginerdial as many of us are, I'm surprised no one has come out with a staking jig up until now. Yes, I know it's a simple process with a punch, but I know it's taken me a few castle nuts to get good stakes "most" of the time. Most of us aren't staking castle nuts day in and day out so this jig looks like a great way to get good stakes. Kudos to your student for creating something that truly solves a problem.
@MyCCW ... I think it's Groovy that You still use Kudos.
The alignment jig is the best part. Perhaps the developer will make one that aligns to milspec castle nuts at some point. Excellent product for those planning several new builds, but tough for existing. I actually prefer the non auto punch staking tool as well for whatever reason…so a single jig would be an excellent add to the bench 👍🇺🇸
I believe you can adjust the tension spring on the center punch to increase the striking force. Righty tighty. Lefty loosey. At least you can on my starrett auto punch.
The Starrett auto punch is an amazing punch. Definitely the best one out there, especially with the materials they're using.
@@printingwithpeek4897I have the starrett auto punch, never noticed that feature
@@goinhot9133 Hey, it's never too late to learn@
what diameter punch? Thanks
@@edwards_enterprises I dont know what diameter you are referring to. This is the model I have: Starrett 18AA Automatic Center Punch
Excellent tool and video. Only comment would be to use the wrench at 90 deg from the extension so you don't increase torque being applied from the extra length.
Sweet little kit, Something ill definitely be adding to my Armour's Bench tool box. Thanks for showcasing this unique tool.
Awhile back I purchased a complete lower from Palmetto State Armory. It was suppose to be a non blem item but it turned out to be a blem item and a bad blem at that. It also turned out that the staking of the castle nut was horrible. With this armorer's kit I feel comfortable fixing the issue myself. Chad, I can't thank you enough for showcasing this unique item. Kudos to the individual for offering this and making life as a builder that much easier.
This is exactly the type of thing that makes homebuilds better. Sure, most people won't have machining capabilities but if you get parts from reputable manufacturers and you gauge them, you can have a rifle set up that meets and exceeds milspec. There is no reason, not to do this. I will definitely be adding this tool to my line up.
Very cool, the requirement for a proprietary castle nut is a bit of a turn-off. It is basically a locating punch jig. But kudos to them. The use of the Geissele receiver extension holder makes this task very simple.
I can watch these videos all day.
I like little inventions like this. My only recommendation, for version two of their product, is to angle it just a little bit, just a wee little bit, so that it puts a little bit more focus on moving material in the direction of the notch. Other than that, I like the idea.
That tool is amazing and you are an exceptional armorer. Subscribed! I have assembled 20+ ARs and your attention to detail is top notch and I learned from you already! Thank you.
Just an idea for a future video. I'd love to see you do an evaluation of Anderson's RF85 treatment and how it compares to other friction reducing treatments and coatings. Love the channel and thanks for all the content you put out.
Awesome Channel. Appercaite your talent and your commitment to learn it
Get this man to 100k!
I bought the EZ starter kit for $20.00 bucks, and now I have a professional looking, perfectly staked castle nut on my first ever AR 7.62x39 build.
What a brilliantly simple tool that takes all the guess work out of staking your castle nut. 🎉🎉🎉
Three cheers and a cold beer for SOTAR!!!!
Where did u buy it from?
Thanks Chad, another great video. A couple firsts for me here, contemplating a drunk woodpecker’s actions was not one I expected to hear, but it was a well executed analogy. Kudos to drunk woodpeckers and great analogies..
Good quick demo and review. Please review the Forward Controls CN5F Extended Castle Nut. More thread engagement and coverage. Is it stronger and any better than mil-spec?
great tool!! BUT, lets also talk about that AWESOME greenish receiver holder!!! WOW !!! OMG!
I understand that they would like for us to purchase their castle nuts.
Though for us poors it'd be nice if they would make a jig for a mil spec nut.
I bought the same spring loaded punch on Amazon a few years back, works amazing as a staking tool.
That bottle of sriracha is a must have for every serious armorer.
I like the variant on the Fallen logo. More firearms reference back to the skateboard world :) Always good to see.
Who makes the fixture that the lower and receiver extension was places in? That is very nice.
Techco. Ncstar makes one, botach makes one and G$$$$$ makes one
Looks like a great tool and definitely looks professional.
What a cool design! Awesome idea and perfectly executed for home builders. Well done Echo Zulu.
Tango Uniform is the name of the company. Echo Zulu refers to the name of the kit.
Drunken woodpecker…so you HAVE seen my staking skills!😂
The only bad part of this jig in my opinion is it's a proprietary tool. Should've just designed it to work with milspec castle nuts. Then maybe he could've designed a different castle nut that works with it and sold that as well if he wanted to.
Beautiful video, thanks for sharing, could you tell me you wonderful vise jig, the green one, that holds everything in line, I want to purchase one. Thank you very much
Could have used that several years ago when I was butchering my staking job!! Great video as usual.
Just ordered one. Great item
Awesome castle nut staking kit, awesome design: However I dont want to come off like a troll, but I would have to iterate, that it is not worth the $85. price tag being asked, especially for a proprietary castle but and jig, and those of us that are not staking a daily multitude of castle nuts, you could most likely piece together that whole kit except the jig, for the price of the jig. Just saying
AGREED.
Very cool tool, very good tutorial. But i do have a question.
Have you ever seen issues from a badly staked buffer extention tube? To me it seems like even single stake is more than enough to hold it for a lifetime of abuse. Maybe i have rose colored glasses on, but ive never had a single issue with a castle nut backing off. Perhaps im just staking properly...
The receiver extension tube doesn’t need to be staked, only the castle nut that generates axial pressure between it and the lower (via the endplate which acts as a spacer between the two).
Castle nut staking is a plastic deformation of the endplate metal that fixes the endplate’s rotation relative to the castle nut. (and the endplate in turn already has its rotation mechanically fixed relative to the lower)
The expectable forces that could rotate the castle nut relative to the endplate are at worst what we would colloquially call “jiggling”. That’s it. Literally all we’re trying to do is control jiggling. We’re just doing so on a machine that’s pretty good at jiggling things.
The only function of staking is to offer a degree of mechanical obstruction to Jiggling Rotation that is:
- greater than our arbitrary thread friction and/or adhesive can provide
- less than would require irreversible welding
So, staking merely introduces a mechanical barrier to rotation (forming a plasticly formed de facto lug) that a little jiggling won’t overcome even when adhesives and friction from axial thread pressure have failed to attest the jiggling.
That is to say, as something that actually changes the Shape of (plasticly deforms) metal objects, castle nut staking doesn’t really have to accomplish much.
Picture a glass mason jar with a notch in it that you can hammer a bit of the rim of the lid into. You can shake that jar as hard as you want forever, but you if you’ve hammered a bit of the lid’s edge into that notch, no matter what thread friction and adhesive you overcome with shaking, that lid is never gonna rotate relative to the glass, because it’s floating in between the sides of that notch.
It offers rotational resistance, but not in a fight against any rotational force, only against jiggling.
A minor torsional effort with a wrench can break a castle nut stake like it’s nothing, and that’s the way it should be, because it’s meant to be a small and reversible thing resisting far Smaller stresses.
In fact that’s the reason we call so much attention to castle nut staking: because it accomplishes something so mechanically Minor that most people don’t even imagine it’s worth doing.
As long as the staking has moved enough material into the staking notch, it'll serve its purpose. Functionally, it doesn't matter how ugly it is, but Chad's a professional and cares about how his work looks. Understandably so.
Does this work with a standard castle nut
That's a great jig; my first build went well but using a Starett punch I wasn't able to get it perfect, but at least I didn't bubba-gonsmif it (like nsz85). This is perfect for alignment then following up as you did at an angle without the jig.
Agreed; would most definitely like to see a version that would work with milspec castle nuts.
I recently purchased a non AR related item and included in the package was one of the castle nut stickers. Naturally I checked out their website. I haven't bought a kit yet but will in the near future.
Damn....just found this vid. Out of stock. I NEED! :D
Nifty. I like that wrench head. At the very least nice fast way to make a couple centered marks. Thanks
I got my tango staking set now. Thank you.
If you're applying appropriate torque, something like vibratite is not necessary, correct?
Very cool. Some of mine are ugly but they hold. I did order one of the spring loaded ones you pull back and let go to use on my next one, that'll help me a lot. I'll use a push-down one like this for my starting divot and then switch to the other for some more oomph.
What is your opinion on the PWS ratcheting castle nut/endplate system?
I have 3 on lowers. I like them,never came loose. Thousands of rounds.
I like this method better..just an opinion...stick to basics
The end plate is not truly ratcheting and does shear if torqued the wrong way. If you want that style of system, the better option is the Fortis K2.
Love mine, switched over
Seen many come loose, especially if they are reused. The tooth wears flat.
That's nice! Thank you for another upload.
Groovy little tool! Glad someone cam3 up with it cause I thoroughly enjoy tools that make my efforts easier & make my end result better. Cheers & Thank you! #SOTAR #SOLGW #ARJunkie
Shouldn't the castle nut wrench be 90 degrees from the torque wrench handle to achieve proper torque value? I always thought having it at any other angle would cause an incorrect reading.
Good video. Just picked up the starter kit on Brownells. Nut Wrench would've been nice to have but trying to keep costs down.
What if I didn’t grease the threads before I put my nude buffer tube in?
Probably be dead soon......
You must be a great teacher!!
Excellent video & info thanks
Thanks for the reco. I saw your ratcheting castle but video and I’m rethinking that method. 🇺🇸🦅2A
Thank you Sir
We need a hug for our FCD castle nuts sir.
Hi, love your videos however why not just use the pws ratchet lock! It’s easy and awesome at the same time! Takes under a minute to install!
Because I have a negative opinion of them.
@@SchooloftheAmericanRifleso I have learned a lot from your videos! More than I could once imagine that one day I’ll know so much about ar15’s. Please elaborate on what kinda problem or problems you are referring to?I have them in all my ar’s that I’ve built. 2 of them in particular have been run hard and somewhat abused. Never had a problem with them!
Whoa. That's really great.
Not gonna lie, I'm in the "non-staking" group. But this is a handy tool.
Never staked. Would like this kit. So what happens when you want to remove it? Does the end plate And the Castle nut just get ruined? Is it a pain to get off?
I watched your video removing one. I’m down with this kit.😊
Is it possible to send a lower to you for buffer tube adjustment and restaking?
SOTAR have you staked griffin endplates? I destroyed 2 good quality punches and didn’t even scratch the finish.
That is a neat product. Not a bad price for the Armorer's kit.
That wrench looks like it will give FCDs a run for its $. If I didn’t have it I’d pick this kit up for sure.
Nice!
I don’t currently have any builds planned, but I’m ordering one of these for my next project, whenever it is.
Question, though… where do you get that aeroshell grease in that handy container with a brush built into the lid? I’m used to little tubs and having to use an external brush or something that dries out or gets lost between uses…
Thanks!
Actually the starter kit does have tool inside, small punch....🇺🇸✊
“Drunk woodpecker “ 😂
And know we know, and knowing is half the battle, GI Joe.
What digital torque wrench were you using?
Didn't know you were based out of Maryland. Might have to give you folks a visit
What digital torque wrench do you use?
Fantastic idea thanks for sharing!!
Why is staking important?
It's an interesting one. I've gotten good at staking but this would have helped during the learning process. I've got some ugly ones for sure.
Aren't crows feet technically supposed to be 90 degrees perpendicular? I know it really doesn't matter with such a short crows foot here, or if there's just a few more ft lbs on the castle nut on an AR.
Where did you get the lower receiver vise ? Well done video.
My two builds i "cheated" and used PWS ratcheting castlenuts. No staking required. This thing may warrant a looksie though
Haha "We'll do it live. We'll do it F***ING LIVE!!!!!
"I don't want to cut into the instructions."
*Proceeds to tear the instructions to confetti.
That is awesome.
laughing at the "drunk woodpecker" comment!
"Oh yeah look at that staking". haha I love it man, i was saying the same thing to myself. Thats one of those moments where my girlfriend would have turned to me and said "NNEEEEEERRRD". XD
That’s a nice tool.
Will this tool work with the FCD castle nut?
What level castel nut are these - 3, 2, or 1?
Whats the name of the green block you used to keep the receiver aligned with the buffer tube??
Where did you get that reciever extension block for the vise?
My stakes work. But aren't pretty, I would have bought this as a matter of pride in my own work.
LOL the Bob Ross of gunsmiths
Where can I find that green vice?
I'm curious on how Colt stakes there castle nut. My LE6920 has a square staking rather than the round staking compared to other manufacturers.
They use a fixture (press).
@@retirednobaddays456 milspec calls for aeroshell grease on all threads of the AR as it is a steel to aluminum mating point and you want to try to prevent disimilar metal corrosion. I also have a fairly low trust point for antiseize and have had better luck in automotive applications that won't get super hot using regular chassis grease in place of antiseize. On exhaust etc. I use high temp aircraft grade antiseize and have never had a problem
buying... for sure
you staked and torqued that all down without the rear takedown pin installed? why?
demo purposes I am sure
Lock tight?
Where did you get the vice?
Anyone know the diameter of the hole lol? I have a Starrett 18-C auto punch on order and hoping to order just the plastic piece but not sure if it’ll fit
Awesome. Very awesome.
Whats that green lower holder in vice called?
Just what I’ve been looking for, just snagged one. Thanks Chad
Great solution!
Question, why do we need to tighten and loosen the barrel nut 3x but not on any other nuts on the gun? I've never understood that.
best guess is that the barrel's alignment to the reciever and therefore the sights that are on the receiver is critical to maintain so even a TINY amount of play is no good but if the buttstock rotates an RCH it won't make much difference. That said if you want a solid reliable torque reading no one is stopping you from torquing and breaking everything loose 3x.
@@homeFall1 it’s just with every other bolt and nut in the world you don’t do that…so I’m curious as to why
@@Asymmetrical.athlete_ I can see what you are saying but most other nuts and bolts I install aren't dissimilar metals with one of them being super soft (aluminum receiver) and I normally don't care if perhaps the thing the bolt is holding down is allowed to move a TINY amount. It is also just something that I was taught to do and I only do it maybe once every month or two so I don't see why it hurts to be super cautions while doing it.
@@homeFall1 that’s true about the two different metals. I just wonder if there’s a book answer, you know what I mean
@@Asymmetrical.athlete_ The book answer I have for the 3x torquing is the military TM. It states "Two time torquing (three times total) procedures provide for a better thread fit and prevents barrel nuts from becoming loose. Do not use the torque wrench for loosening." As for the practice in general in other applications I don't believe I have every seen it stated anywhere.
very slick!
Fancy