Guys, thanks to this video, I have successfully replaced the cams in my own twin-cam with Woods TW-222 this weekend. What a difference and now I owe this man a beer or two! Thanks for sharing🤘
@@tylerdzugan9596 Yes, I installed them in a tw-96 (2010 Ultra) and it was well worth the effort. I called Woods and talked to Bob. I used Fueling adjustable pushrods, installed TBR 2 into 1 exhausted and a high flow air cleaner, Then tuned using a Power Vision turner due to having fuel injection. Ran the bike to Florida, and averaged 42 MPG on the 2500 mile trip. Plenty of power.
I'm wanting to install the Wood 222 also in my 08/96"...nice gains in HP and especially torque! Good no BS video! Did my 01, 20 yrs ago...not having to press in the cams on the 96" is nice!
Sir I’ve been watching a lot of your videos, some several times and I’m a fan. Thank you for making great videos for guys like me. I’ve been wrenching a while on different bikes and it wasn’t until recently that I got into Harley’s. Your videos have helped me out a ton. I wanted to leave you with a tip of my own. I’ve watched several of your videos where you open up the cam chest and throw the oil pan under it to catch the oil. That oil inevitably gets all over the cable and frame below. Some old man taught me a long time ago to take aluminum foil and make a catch that fits under what I’m working on and direct the oil to my pan. If you try it I’ll bet money you keep a roll of foil in the garage after.
That's a good idea thanks for the tip. I've got thirty years experience wrenching and like I say u can learn something new every day. That is if a person doesn't already think the know everything. Glade my vids can help and thanks for the tip.
Greetings from East Tennessee. Just stumbled upon your channel. Here's some critique: 1. Your wrenching prowess is superb. 2. Your video production is phenomenal. 3. Your choice in beer is 👍🏻.
I've just subscribed. I 've a 99 SG FXDX. Changed my outer adjuster about 7000 ago. I just bought a stage 1 external breather and carb kit. While I'm there, The adjusters will be checked.. You're a ton of info. Thank ya..
love the videos! Keep them coming! You have a laid back way of explaining it and it just makes since to me. Paired your videos with the owners manual and I am doing all my own motor work now
Thank you for getting back to me about the question I asked. My Fatboy is a 2015, and I was wondering if I would need to change anything other than the cams.
Did mine awhile back ago thanks to you, runs fine and put miles on her. My push rods need adjusted and I’ve tried multiple times but I still have a ting noise. I know it’s from the rods
What about the oil pump? I always see and hear to upgrade to a higher pressure oil pump when changing the cams, good idea or optional? Thanks for an awesome, short, detailed, video.
Unless your building a race motor it's not necessary. The overpressure valve in the support plate is gonna maintain 35p.s.i. The stock pump is capable of putting out more than that but the engine is designed to run at 35. So the valve keeps it close to that.
I have a 2014 street glide special with 42,000 miles. It has slip on mufflers and a different air cleaner. I want to know if I can change just the cams to woods or s&s cams without changing the pressure plate and oil pump. I would probably change the cams, push rods and lifters. I appreciate your videos, they are very informative and I would appreciate your input.
First I gotta give you props for that many miles on a 10 year old bike, good job. Your good just changing cams no need for any of the the other thing's. Thanks for the compliment on the vid means alot.
I have a 2011 superglide with a hd screaming eagle intake, fp3 fuel pack, and Vance and Hines big shots (although I might make the change to a bassani road rage 2). The bike already feels like it pulls good to me but since the cams will give me more power I want to do that upgrade. Do you happen to have any recommendations on what cams would be a good fit? Thanks
Not sure if this answers the question correctly but I like low to mid range power the best. I Like quick acceleration. I just got the moons 3/4 turn throttle and I like the quicker response.
Sorry for delayed response been covered up trying to get the next vid done. After trying out a pile of different one's on stock compression engine's I really like the s&s 583 for the low end grunt. But what I would do is review the different dyna graphs and pic one that matches your riding style.
Hey man if I put new cams in my 103 and then get a tune, do I have to trailer it to the bike shop for a tune or can I still ride it there to get the tune? Cheers. Love the videos and knowledge. Subscribed all the way over here in New Zealand
Hay man I love your videos they are informative I have a ? I am going to 570 cams and adjustable push rods do you have a recommendation of how much tight I should take them
So you’re saying it’s fool proof lol, I’ve never replaced a cam and you make it look easy but I’m not sure if I could actually do it without messing something up lol , and don’t you have to tune your bike afterwards , it would so much cheaper if I could do it myself, thanks for the video
I truly enjoy your video's. I have a 2012 ultra 103 with 62,000 miles on it. Is it time to open up the cam chest and check things out? Especially the chain tensioners?
@DeathProofProductions Thanks! I was thinking about that myself. Not sure how many miles the hydraulic tensioners go. I know the pre 06 went anywhere from 10,000 to 40,000.
What was the screws you put in the cam plate that had the flat head slots cut in them while you was torquing down the bolts you snapped your fingers and the right ones where in there? Thanks Great video.....
The real question is if you use a canned map for the cam or do you go for a proper dyno tuning? Flashed tune or entire ECM replacement? @@deathproofproductions
I use a snap on blind hole bearing puller set instead of the aftermarket one just for that job. That way I got a tool that does more than one job. To install I use a oak dowel rod and gently massage it in.
Cool videos.. glad I found them. 2 questions. Is the motor you are replacing cams in a bone stock motor? Also do ya have a video of doing a stator? I have an 06 ultra that getting ready to do tensioners and stator on. Again thanks for the videos.
thanks for the complement on the vids. yes, this guys motor is bone stock. I have a vid on my playlist named harley inner primary removal and seal replacement. it show's removal and reinstallation of the stator, if your in there you might want to consider replacing those seals.
My apologies for all the questions. Any of these fitment notes to be concerned about using the normal 585's? Fitment Notes & Exceptions Installer must check for coil bind, valve-to-valve clearance, and valve-to-piston clearance Cam bearings and gaskets must be replaced when installing new cams Due to inherent characteristics of gear-driven cams, you may experience greater valve train noise For installation of chain-drive kit on 1999 Twin Cam motors, you must purchase a splined outer drive sprocket High-lift valve springs are required to run these cams in 1999-2004 models and may be required for other applications
no need to apologize, the easy starts are really for high compression engines, no need for them with stock compression. its not a bad idea to use a bore scope and check for valve clearance but in thirty years iv only seen the valve hit the piston one time and that bike had the bigger valves and it was decked.
Great explanation on the install I have an evo motor on my bike and am going to swap the cam. Does that cover plate on the cam chest have to come off or no ? It’s held in with two rivets. Thanks
on the evo all you do is remove the outer cam cover then slide the cam out. it's important to make sure your cam gear matches the pinion gear so that the working depth of the gear teeth is right, to prevent gear whine and accelerated wear.
The cams that were installed, would you have to do head work, or change springs to accommodate the size of the cams. Also' did you have to tune it for the change of cams.
Do you have to lock the sprockets when tightening down them down? Can you just line up the marks on everything, set the bike on the floor in gear, then tighten ? That’s what I did, but it rotated a little on me. Just trying to make sure I did it right
its best to lock them down. in the vidieo you see me use a chisel to lock the teeth on the two sprockets. if it moves a little but you made sure to use red lock tight. ur prolly good but it wouldn't hurt to break it loose than re tighten. using a chisel or something to lock the teeth.
Hey brother I got a 2010 96ci Flhx, is it necessary to change the oil pump and cam plate if I’m just doing cams ? And how much of a necessity is it to change the lifters ? Bike only has 25k miles
Its not necessarily needed. If I'm installing a mild cam I don't unless they come in the kit and then I do or if the engine is gonna be built for racing.
The 583 is on the edge in early twincams you have to upgrade the springs to prevent valve float. What style of riding do you spend most of your time at.
Good video. The tensioner looks pretty worn, I'm surprised you re-used it. I'm super anal though, I changed the tensioners, chains, and sprockets when I put cams in my 96".
Did you replace the outer bearings as well? I’m thinking about putting new cams in my CVO 110 and not sure if i need to replace the outer bearings too. Bike has 32k on it. Looking at comp cams 3103 to run as a bolt in cam on an otherwise stock CVO 110 (2-1 pipe SE heavy breather). Interested to hear your thoughts?
Sorry for late reply been covered up working on vids. I quit doing that after the first few hundred cam swaps I did as a tech for Bumpus Harley Davidson. Never found any that were bad out of spec, done thousands since then and never had a issue.
@@deathproofproductions that makes me hopeful. I paid $15 for the bag of washers from my harley dealer. I will measure and if within tolerance get my money back :)
@@deathproofproductions this particular motor has the 95" s.e. kit. I bought it like that. I think it's 9.4 or 9.7? I bought the road king with the 95" kit already done . I think heads are stock but it has 525 cams now, and they are definitely top end cams. I don't wanna use the Andrew's 57 again. They were in a built 103 with 10.8 comp...it had decked heads with 30 thou gaskets. Are the 525 cams a fueling product?. They are strong on the top end.
Ok let me do some figuring. I don't think it's that high just on a big bore my dyna is decked .065 and it's about 10.5 and it's big bore. Let me get back to you.
Ok what I figured up is for what ur wanting I would go with either the cycle rama 575 but my favorite is the s&s 583 for bottom end torque. That's what I'm installing in the vid it's also what I have in my 04 heritage and I love it for my riding style.
@@deathproofproductions ......thanks man I appreciate you getting back. Do I have to get stiffer springs or can I keep the stock ones with the sns 583?
So first let me say that I like the video. I like the fact that you didn't remove the floorboard and the pipe! most of the videos I have watched, they remove these parts. I assume it is to better film the video but I am more of a "work around it until it needs to be removed" kind of guy. I am looking for Just what you described in this video. I ride an 09' street glide with a stock 96" with a stage 1 SE intake, V&H True Duals and Rush mufflers, I ride mostly 2 up and want that low to mid range torque so that my friends don't leave me out of the hole and on the hills. I looked into the 583 on the S&S site and it says its not for Touring bikes?!?!? any idea why that is? Can you recommend a cam that will fit my needs?
I think they don't suggest it for touring because most folks tour on the interstate instead of highways . I live in the ozarks and travel out west alot on two lanes and I love the shit out of that cam stopped me from down shifting as much. The 585 is good to. I have prolly trade almost every one they make and those are my favorite in my touring bikes.
Sir, if my cam Chest isn’t sliding in as smoothly as yours what could I have done wrong that it doesn’t want to go back in? I try to wiggle it in and nothing it feels like something is stopping it
I have a 2017 low rider s previous owner had a TTS and S&S adjustable pushrods and exhaust but I found out it now has the stock ecu and was dynod with a stage 1 tune from power vision. Does that make any sense for it not to have cams ?
I'm a big torque guy because I live in the hills. it has alot to do with what conditions you ride in. I'm about to make a video about it. maybe that will help you decide.
A three year old could do it? Hmmm.... I attended machinist mate school in 1965 after boot camp. The instructor was a wise old hillbilly.... probably mid-20's. He had the same attitude. "Hell, it's just like adjusting a shit spreader!"..... ok but I'm a city boy and I had no idea what a shit spreader was. I've watched a gazilion cam chest videos and I'm very keen to to a cam upgrade to my 2010 FXSTC. But if there is a way to do something wrong I will most certainly find it. I'm a wizard with electronics but I have no natural ability when it comes to anything mechanical. I'm 78 years old and still learning.
That's funny about your instructor, I'm a hillbilly from the Ozark national forest and worked on shit spreaders before. Me and him might have alot in common.
Makes sense. Thank you! Can I use a regular bearing tool vs the design for a Vtwin that bolts up. Furthermore can I order parts from you to support your page?
Stock 103 looking to do a low end torque cam. Not looking for big performance and replacing cam plate and pump/lifters. Truly just want a cam with new push rods. Where do I order from?
We have a web page but I received a email were I got to fill out some forms the outher day when i was out of town picking up my 1979 formula firebird, so it's unlinked at the moment but I will get it fixed quick fast and in a hurry like, got my son working on it right now.
But I’m confused about the valve lifter tubes how they cut them off and don’t show you how to reinstall them a explanation would be of great help my friend shout out from Australia 🇦🇺
I show how in the top end reassembly video go to my play list if you want to check , I guess I should have mentioned that in the cam video. But if your not taking the top off just pull the top tube cover it's got a slit protruding so you can pull it out. Lift the bottom tube it will slide into the top one. Cut the push rod with bolt cutters and remove them, you will want to get some adjustable push rods for reinstallation. I've got a video on how to install adjustable push rods on my playlist also the manufacturer will have instructions to it's easy you won't have any trouble. Than to reinstall the tube cover use a flathead screwdriver to push down on the spring loaded center piece with the cover on top of the screwdriver and walk it in.
It's not necessary to bring it to top dead center. When I install the cams I show a trick on timing it plus with the cylinder off I can pull up the rod to bring it to t.d.c. . That's how I show the method works in the video.
Your right pounding on certain bearings is a really bad idea because of the brinelling that's caused by the bearings hitting the load bearing surface they ride on. That causes fretting that starts to spall off under load as the race and bearing come into contact leading to bearing failure. Gently tapping in needle bearings doesn't cause the load bearing surface to impact, the tips of the rollers that are tapered to a point are what make contact. This is a none load bearing surface and won't cause spalling. The inside of the case were they go has a shoulder , you push them in until they make contact. This usually puts them about .050 below the surface of the case.
Wasn't anything wrong with them, they were well within the factory serviceable wear limits. We were trained by the factory to only replace parts that don't have alot of life in them so we don't waste people's money. Your way of thinking seems to be throw parts that you don't need in it, what about the rocker arm's or the valves since I'm putting in cams, the lifter bores are machined into the cases so I guess I need new cases while I'm in there, since aluminum wears faster than steel lifters.
@@deathproofproductions Bike engines are NO different to car,truck or any internal combustion engine. The rule of thumb is to NEVER us old lifters with a new Cam Shaft. I'm very curious as to how you measure the service life of a cam follower. EVEN if it is a roller lifter
I'm with you they are the same, had to argue that with people a few time's through the years. They have you check the lifters roller for roughness , excessive play and pitting. If Harley thought you needed to replace the lifters every time you do a cam swap they would have sold the cam's as a kit, or recommended to replace them in the item description. They never taught me or the other 30 Harley mechanics Iv worked with through the years to replace them every cam swap, 25 years and thousands of bikes later I have yet to see a problem. My hearetage that I'm riding right now going cross country is a prime example. Iv changed the cams out on it Polly 5 times looking for the one I wanted. 100,000 miles later no problem.
From most people's comments in the past we learned it's best to get to the meat of it right away. Really though it's not a hard job the most critical step is torque the bolts. If you have any questions when your doing the job feel free to email me at davethom2004flstc@gmail.com.
I think I'd rather just buy a brand that doesn't need so many aftermarket upgrades, just to become....Fast isn't the right word....... I guess, less slow.
it's not so much about going fast on them , it' more about enjoying one more thing to do with the bike. mechanics like me and the guys i worked with just like having a reason to tinker with them. it's a way to bond with the bike so to speak, even on my not Harley bikes I do the same on them. when me and my wife were dating she asked me why i have so many different brands of bike's my response was why do you have so many brands of shoe's, its because they all feel different. she shook her head and said i see your point.
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
Guys, thanks to this video, I have successfully replaced the cams in my own twin-cam with Woods TW-222 this weekend. What a difference and now I owe this man a beer or two! Thanks for sharing🤘
Thanks glad we could help.
I am about to order some tw222 for my twin cam 96. Do you think it was worth the upgrade?
@@tylerdzugan9596 Yes, I installed them in a tw-96 (2010 Ultra) and it was well worth the effort. I called Woods and talked to Bob. I used Fueling adjustable pushrods, installed TBR 2 into 1 exhausted and a high flow air cleaner, Then tuned using a Power Vision turner due to having fuel injection. Ran the bike to Florida, and averaged 42 MPG on the 2500 mile trip. Plenty of power.
I'm wanting to install the Wood 222 also in my 08/96"...nice gains in HP and especially torque! Good no BS video! Did my 01, 20 yrs ago...not having to press in the cams on the 96" is nice!
I wanna put the TW222 in my 103 , how long did it take and what extra parts did you need
Sir I’ve been watching a lot of your videos, some several times and I’m a fan. Thank you for making great videos for guys like me. I’ve been wrenching a while on different bikes and it wasn’t until recently that I got into Harley’s. Your videos have helped me out a ton.
I wanted to leave you with a tip of my own. I’ve watched several of your videos where you open up the cam chest and throw the oil pan under it to catch the oil. That oil inevitably gets all over the cable and frame below. Some old man taught me a long time ago to take aluminum foil and make a catch that fits under what I’m working on and direct the oil to my pan. If you try it I’ll bet money you keep a roll of foil in the garage after.
That's a good idea thanks for the tip. I've got thirty years experience wrenching and like I say u can learn something new every day. That is if a person doesn't already think the know everything. Glade my vids can help and thanks for the tip.
Greetings from East Tennessee. Just stumbled upon your channel. Here's some critique: 1. Your wrenching prowess is superb. 2. Your video production is phenomenal. 3. Your choice in beer is 👍🏻.
Thank you both myself and my son appreciate it.
Probably the best install video for cams install
Thanks
I've just subscribed. I 've a 99 SG FXDX. Changed my outer adjuster about 7000 ago. I just bought a stage 1 external breather and carb kit. While I'm there, The adjusters will be checked.. You're a ton of info. Thank ya..
Glad to be able to help.
love the videos! Keep them coming! You have a laid back way of explaining it and it just makes since to me. Paired your videos with the owners manual and I am doing all my own motor work now
Thanks
thanks brother, done this before but its been a while and your videos just make sense...keep up the great work!
Awesome, thank you!
Good video Bubba, you make the work look easy and enjoyable. Especially when you sit back and and review your work while enjoying an adult beverage. 🍻
thanks
fantastic tutorial. Thanks for the info and education. your video made my cam swap effortless
Thanks for the compliment on the vid, glad to see it helped you get the job done.
Thank you for getting back to me about the question I asked. My Fatboy is a 2015, and I was wondering if I would need to change anything other than the cams.
No problem glade to help.
Man this guy is entertaining as hell lol. Just finished building my shop and I’m throwing a set of Woods 555s in right meow
Thanks
Did mine awhile back ago thanks to you, runs fine and put miles on her. My push rods need adjusted and I’ve tried multiple times but I still have a ting noise. I know it’s from the rods
Did the noise start after putting in the cams.
@@deathproofproductions yes. It’s not a nasty noise but you sure can here it
If the cam profile ramps down rapidly it's not uncommon to hear the valves hitting the seat.
You ride 4 real the dirt shows it 💯 great video 📹 super informative 👍 keep them coming. Thanks again
Thanks.
Such a well put together demonstration.. Thanks
No, thank you for the compliment.
What about the oil pump? I always see and hear to upgrade to a higher pressure oil pump when changing the cams, good idea or optional? Thanks for an awesome, short, detailed, video.
Unless your building a race motor it's not necessary. The overpressure valve in the support plate is gonna maintain 35p.s.i. The stock pump is capable of putting out more than that but the engine is designed to run at 35. So the valve keeps it close to that.
This guys a bad ass. Love his energy. Yep I subscribed. Imma go for it wen I get cams....💪🤘
Thanks
Hi do I need to change cam bearings every time I swap a cam, Changing cams , bearings are aftermarket ones and have 10k on them ? BTW awesome videos
If it's low miles I don't. Thanks for the compliment we try hard to make entertainment as well as passing on knowledge .
I have a 2014 street glide special with 42,000 miles. It has slip on mufflers and a different air cleaner. I want to know if I can change just the cams to woods or s&s cams without changing the pressure plate and oil pump. I would probably change the cams, push rods and lifters. I appreciate your videos, they are very informative and I would appreciate your input.
First I gotta give you props for that many miles on a 10 year old bike, good job. Your good just changing cams no need for any of the the other thing's. Thanks for the compliment on the vid means alot.
I actually think I might tackle this on my own. Thank you sir
It's easy.
I have a 2011 superglide with a hd screaming eagle intake, fp3 fuel pack, and Vance and Hines big shots (although I might make the change to a bassani road rage 2). The bike already feels like it pulls good to me but since the cams will give me more power I want to do that upgrade. Do you happen to have any recommendations on what cams would be a good fit? Thanks
What riding style do you do most of the time.
Not sure if this answers the question correctly but I like low to mid range power the best. I Like quick acceleration. I just got the moons 3/4 turn throttle and I like the quicker response.
Sorry for delayed response been covered up trying to get the next vid done. After trying out a pile of different one's on stock compression engine's I really like the s&s 583 for the low end grunt. But what I would do is review the different dyna graphs and pic one that matches your riding style.
Hey man if I put new cams in my 103 and then get a tune, do I have to trailer it to the bike shop for a tune or can I still ride it there to get the tune? Cheers. Love the videos and knowledge. Subscribed all the way over here in New Zealand
You can ride it, just don't try to pop wheelies or do burnouts until your headed back from the shop.
Awesome, thanks mate for the reply@@deathproofproductions
Hay man I love your videos they are informative I have a ? I am going to 570 cams and adjustable push rods do you have a recommendation of how much tight I should take them
Set them to what the manufacturer says in the instructions.
So you’re saying it’s fool proof lol, I’ve never replaced a cam and you make it look easy but I’m not sure if I could actually do it without messing something up lol , and don’t you have to tune your bike afterwards , it would so much cheaper if I could do it myself, thanks for the video
If it's injected you will have to buy a tuner or take it to someone .
@@deathproofproductions of course , I knew there was a catch lol
Damn good video sir,I can't wait till I'm 3 years old👌😎
Me too , here’s hoping 🤙😎👏
I truly enjoy your video's. I have a 2012 ultra 103 with 62,000 miles on it. Is it time to open up the cam chest and check things out? Especially the chain tensioners?
That would be good preventative maintenance. Thanks for the compliment.
@DeathProofProductions Thanks! I was thinking about that myself. Not sure how many miles the hydraulic tensioners go. I know the pre 06 went anywhere from 10,000 to 40,000.
Yeah I've seen most of them show signs of wear in the 50,000 to 100,000 range.
@DeathProofProductions My main concern is cam bearings. I'm not a fan of the Ina bearings. Thanks again for your input.
What was the screws you put in the cam plate that had the flat head slots cut in them while you was torquing down the bolts you snapped your fingers and the right ones where in there? Thanks Great video.....
oil pump alignment screws. you don't absolutely have to use them.
@@deathproofproductions ok Thanks
Fantastic video and great editing
Best videos on RUclips 🥂
Thanks for the compliment means alot to know your work is appreciated.
I've just discovered ur video bro it's very informative. I got a question for u. What tge best cam for a stock 96 cc motor. Is it 555 or 777
what rpm do you spend most of your time.
another fine video sir..
Thanks for the video. Does the new cam now require a re-map?
Yes, I really should have mentioned that in the video.
The real question is if you use a canned map for the cam or do you go for a proper dyno tuning? Flashed tune or entire ECM replacement? @@deathproofproductions
Could you please show the tool you use to remove the bearings? Also, did you just hammer the new ones in?
I use a snap on blind hole bearing puller set instead of the aftermarket one just for that job. That way I got a tool that does more than one job. To install I use a oak dowel rod and gently massage it in.
@@deathproofproductions Thanks man, you make it look way easier than most other videos.
Thanks for the video. Will use it for reference when i upgrade my camzz.
But i am struggling to understand the timing marks
You mean were the timing marks should be.
Cool videos.. glad I found them. 2 questions. Is the motor you are replacing cams in a bone stock motor? Also do ya have a video of doing a stator? I have an 06 ultra that getting ready to do tensioners and stator on. Again thanks for the videos.
thanks for the complement on the vids. yes, this guys motor is bone stock. I have a vid on my playlist named harley inner primary removal and seal replacement. it show's removal and reinstallation of the stator, if your in there you might want to consider replacing those seals.
@@deathproofproductions cool beans .. thank y
@@deathproofproductions I see S&S has 585's that are "easy start"? Any opinions on those verse normal?
My apologies for all the questions. Any of these fitment notes to be concerned about using the normal 585's?
Fitment Notes & Exceptions
Installer must check for coil bind, valve-to-valve clearance, and valve-to-piston clearance
Cam bearings and gaskets must be replaced when installing new cams
Due to inherent characteristics of gear-driven cams, you may experience greater valve train noise
For installation of chain-drive kit on 1999 Twin Cam motors, you must purchase a splined outer drive sprocket
High-lift valve springs are required to run these cams in 1999-2004 models and may be required for other applications
no need to apologize, the easy starts are really for high compression engines, no need for them with stock compression. its not a bad idea to use a bore scope and check for valve clearance but in thirty years iv only seen the valve hit the piston one time and that bike had the bigger valves and it was decked.
Great explanation on the install
I have an evo motor on my bike and am going to swap the cam. Does that cover plate on the cam chest have to come off or no ? It’s held in with two rivets. Thanks
on the evo all you do is remove the outer cam cover then slide the cam out. it's important to make sure your cam gear matches the pinion gear so that the working depth of the gear teeth is right, to prevent gear whine and accelerated wear.
@@deathproofproductions I appreciate the reply and your content. This really helps a lot !!
The cams that were installed, would you have to do head work, or change springs to accommodate the size of the cams. Also' did you have to tune it for the change of cams.
If it was 06 and older you do have to change springs, This one was a 07. Yes you do have to retune after cam swap.
What tool did you use to hold the gears to tighten nut
A piece of square bar stock.
Do you have to lock the sprockets when tightening down them down? Can you just line up the marks on everything, set the bike on the floor in gear, then tighten ? That’s what I did, but it rotated a little on me. Just trying to make sure I did it right
its best to lock them down. in the vidieo you see me use a chisel to lock the teeth on the two sprockets. if it moves a little but you made sure to use red lock tight. ur prolly good but it wouldn't hurt to break it loose than re tighten. using a chisel or something to lock the teeth.
Great video, simple changeover,keepem coming.
thanks.
Hey brother I got a 2010 96ci Flhx, is it necessary to change the oil pump and cam plate if I’m just doing cams ? And how much of a necessity is it to change the lifters ? Bike only has 25k miles
All you have to do is cams you dont need to replace the other stuff.
@@deathproofproductions absolutely need to change cam bearings though right?
Its not necessarily needed. If I'm installing a mild cam I don't unless they come in the kit and then I do or if the engine is gonna be built for racing.
@@deathproofproductions would you consider s&s 583 cam mild? and I guess what cam would you recommend
The 583 is on the edge in early twincams you have to upgrade the springs to prevent valve float. What style of riding do you spend most of your time at.
Curious as to why you didn't upgrade the chain tensioner while you had it apart. They looked bad.
I actually did but I didn't think to film it, I guess I should have but didn't think about it. I'm still a little new at this filming stuff.
Good video. The tensioner looks pretty worn, I'm surprised you re-used it. I'm super anal though, I changed the tensioners, chains, and sprockets when I put cams in my 96".
Thanks i ended up replacing it, I should have filmed it but didn't think about it.
Did you replace the outer bearings as well? I’m thinking about putting new cams in my CVO 110 and not sure if i need to replace the outer bearings too. Bike has 32k on it. Looking at comp cams 3103 to run as a bolt in cam on an otherwise stock CVO 110 (2-1 pipe SE heavy breather). Interested to hear your thoughts?
Those are plain bearings and at that low of miles they will have minimal wear. So there's no need to replace them.
@@deathproofproductions thanks for replying and thanks for the good info. Appreciate you man!
as always congratulations from Italy.
You are always the best..
Thanks I was just wondering how you were doing 2 days ago.
Thank's my friend. everything ok al.usual ...
when you think of coming to Italy to give a little lesson you have our mechanics 😄😄😄.
what about the thrust washer and checking alignment is within .010 on the gears?
You talking about using the straight edge.
@@deathproofproductions yes sir
Sorry for late reply been covered up working on vids. I quit doing that after the first few hundred cam swaps I did as a tech for Bumpus Harley Davidson. Never found any that were bad out of spec, done thousands since then and never had a issue.
@@deathproofproductions that makes me hopeful. I paid $15 for the bag of washers from my harley dealer. I will measure and if within tolerance get my money back :)
@@deathproofproductions you were right, $27 for a machinist straight edge and $15 or washers I never needed
Whats the Andrew's torque cam number?. I had the 57h and it hit mid to upper range. Need more torque earlier.....thx
What is your compression ratio. I'm decking his heads that helped me pic the cam.
@@deathproofproductions this particular motor has the 95" s.e. kit. I bought it like that. I think it's 9.4 or 9.7?
I bought the road king with the 95" kit already done . I think heads are stock but it has 525 cams now, and they are definitely top end cams. I don't wanna use the Andrew's 57 again. They were in a built 103 with 10.8 comp...it had decked heads with 30 thou gaskets. Are the 525 cams a fueling product?. They are strong on the top end.
Ok let me do some figuring. I don't think it's that high just on a big bore my dyna is decked .065 and it's about 10.5 and it's big bore. Let me get back to you.
Ok what I figured up is for what ur wanting I would go with either the cycle rama 575 but my favorite is the s&s 583 for bottom end torque. That's what I'm installing in the vid it's also what I have in my 04 heritage and I love it for my riding style.
@@deathproofproductions ......thanks man I appreciate you getting back. Do I have to get stiffer springs or can I keep the stock ones with the sns 583?
what if im not removing the pushrods. how do i keep the lifters up?
Your gonna have to or the lifters will fall into the camchest.
So first let me say that I like the video. I like the fact that you didn't remove the floorboard and the pipe! most of the videos I have watched, they remove these parts. I assume it is to better film the video but I am more of a "work around it until it needs to be removed" kind of guy. I am looking for Just what you described in this video. I ride an 09' street glide with a stock 96" with a stage 1 SE intake, V&H True Duals and Rush mufflers, I ride mostly 2 up and want that low to mid range torque so that my friends don't leave me out of the hole and on the hills. I looked into the 583 on the S&S site and it says its not for Touring bikes?!?!? any idea why that is? Can you recommend a cam that will fit my needs?
I think they don't suggest it for touring because most folks tour on the interstate instead of highways . I live in the ozarks and travel out west alot on two lanes and I love the shit out of that cam stopped me from down shifting as much. The 585 is good to. I have prolly trade almost every one they make and those are my favorite in my touring bikes.
S&S551 great cams for heavy touring bikes
Great video
Thanks
Sir, if my cam Chest isn’t sliding in as smoothly as yours what could I have done wrong that it doesn’t want to go back in?
I try to wiggle it in and nothing it feels like something is stopping it
Are the pushrods out.
Can I do this same job on a 2016 twin cam Breakout
Yes.
Ok after I replace the cam can I ride the bike before a dyno tune or will I cause serious issues with the motor? It has a map now from my stage one.
You can ride it to get tuned but go easy and at low speed.
@ Thanks!!
I have a 2017 low rider s previous owner had a TTS and S&S adjustable pushrods and exhaust but I found out it now has the stock ecu and was dynod with a stage 1 tune from power vision. Does that make any sense for it not to have cams ?
It will not hurt nothing
Great video, thanks for the help
Thanks for the compliment.
Anyway to see what type of cams without having to remove the cam plate cover ?
S&s 583
Da main man keep it coming peace ✌️ on 2's
Thanks.
What cams are good for my 2012 103 stock.
I'm a big torque guy because I live in the hills. it has alot to do with what conditions you ride in. I'm about to make a video about it. maybe that will help you decide.
What can you end up going with I got a 2012 aswell 103 I wanna cam
Zippers Red Shift 528 cams
Did you clean the cam plate or cam chest???
I cleaned the cam plate because I had it in various places in the shop.
A three year old could do it? Hmmm.... I attended machinist mate school in 1965 after boot camp. The instructor was a wise old hillbilly.... probably mid-20's. He had the same attitude. "Hell, it's just like adjusting a shit spreader!"..... ok but I'm a city boy and I had no idea what a shit spreader was. I've watched a gazilion cam chest videos and I'm very keen to to a cam upgrade to my 2010 FXSTC. But if there is a way to do something wrong I will most certainly find it. I'm a wizard with electronics but I have no natural ability when it comes to anything mechanical. I'm 78 years old and still learning.
That's funny about your instructor, I'm a hillbilly from the Ozark national forest and worked on shit spreaders before. Me and him might have alot in common.
This is good tutorial.
Thanks
Do I need to press cams out if it’s an 06 road king efi?
Yes
Dumb question, so I have a stage one. Do you have to retune with new cams?
Yes if you go with new cams you will need a tune.
@@deathproofproductions ok, thought so. Thank you
How long did this take?
If you swap to adjustable push rods than about One and a half hour. If you have to remove tank add about three more hour's to it.
that dudes cool , i think ill subscribe!!!
Thanks
Good vid
Sorry for delayed response been covered up. Thanks for the compliment.
How can I tell if my cams are stock, oh s there a part number?
Yes it's on the back of the cam lobe .
straight and simple. tks.
Yep.
Simple but effective ✌️
Don’t have to check the crank runout?
You can but it's not necessary unless you are going to gear drive, especially if you didn't notice excessive vibration before you tore it down.
Makes sense. Thank you! Can I use a regular bearing tool vs the design for a Vtwin that bolts up. Furthermore can I order parts from you to support your page?
Yeah, I use a snap on blind hole bearing puller instead of the specialty puller. You can order parts from us what parts you needing.
Stock 103 looking to do a low end torque cam. Not looking for big performance and replacing cam plate and pump/lifters. Truly just want a cam with new push rods. Where do I order from?
We have a web page but I received a email were I got to fill out some forms the outher day when i was out of town picking up my 1979 formula firebird, so it's unlinked at the moment but I will get it fixed quick fast and in a hurry like, got my son working on it right now.
I noticed you don’t pull the pipe. I’ve always heard you gotta pull that pipe. Nice little time saver there.
Looks Like He Just Loosened It /;-))
But I’m confused about the valve lifter tubes how they cut them off and don’t show you how to reinstall them a explanation would be of great help my friend shout out from Australia 🇦🇺
I show how in the top end reassembly video go to my play list if you want to check , I guess I should have mentioned that in the cam video. But if your not taking the top off just pull the top tube cover it's got a slit protruding so you can pull it out. Lift the bottom tube it will slide into the top one. Cut the push rod with bolt cutters and remove them, you will want to get some adjustable push rods for reinstallation. I've got a video on how to install adjustable push rods on my playlist also the manufacturer will have instructions to it's easy you won't have any trouble. Than to reinstall the tube cover use a flathead screwdriver to push down on the spring loaded center piece with the cover on top of the screwdriver and walk it in.
6:27 Bud light ?
Bush light.
@@deathproofproductionssame thing
Before you start tearing that down why you didn't show how to bring that to top dead center
It's not necessary to bring it to top dead center. When I install the cams I show a trick on timing it plus with the cylinder off I can pull up the rod to bring it to t.d.c. . That's how I show the method works in the video.
Big fan..
Thanks
Hey man, I just sent a question to the email on your about page. Will you get that?
im in dallas right now so i cant check my channel page. send it to my personal email davethom2004flstc@gmail.com.
@@deathproofproductions gotcha! Sending now 👊🏻
Busch Light. come on man. Bud red can for this old man lol
I do like me some red delicious to.
I would clean everything myself before putting it back together
I don't think pounding the inner cam bearing is a good idea. And it should be set to a certain depth.
Your right pounding on certain bearings is a really bad idea because of the brinelling that's caused by the bearings hitting the load bearing surface they ride on. That causes fretting that starts to spall off under load as the race and bearing come into contact leading to bearing failure. Gently tapping in needle bearings doesn't cause the load bearing surface to impact, the tips of the rollers that are tapered to a point are what make contact. This is a none load bearing surface and won't cause spalling. The inside of the case were they go has a shoulder , you push them in until they make contact. This usually puts them about .050 below the surface of the case.
So you installed a set of new cams using old lifters (cam followers) am I the only one who knows how ridiculous this is 😂😂😂
Wasn't anything wrong with them, they were well within the factory serviceable wear limits. We were trained by the factory to only replace parts that don't have alot of life in them so we don't waste people's money. Your way of thinking seems to be throw parts that you don't need in it, what about the rocker arm's or the valves since I'm putting in cams, the lifter bores are machined into the cases so I guess I need new cases while I'm in there, since aluminum wears faster than steel lifters.
@@deathproofproductions Bike engines are NO different to car,truck or any internal combustion engine. The rule of thumb is to NEVER us old lifters with a new Cam Shaft. I'm very curious as to how you measure the service life of a cam follower. EVEN if it is a roller lifter
I'm with you they are the same, had to argue that with people a few time's through the years. They have you check the lifters roller for roughness , excessive play and pitting. If Harley thought you needed to replace the lifters every time you do a cam swap they would have sold the cam's as a kit, or recommended to replace them in the item description. They never taught me or the other 30 Harley mechanics Iv worked with through the years to replace them every cam swap, 25 years and thousands of bikes later I have yet to see a problem. My hearetage that I'm riding right now going cross country is a prime example. Iv changed the cams out on it Polly 5 times looking for the one I wanted. 100,000 miles later no problem.
Башмаки натяжителей поменяй, скряга!
At of all my testing, the cyco shoes outlast the Harley Davidson ones by far
Not bad took this guy 6 minutes, had to dislike the video cause he didn’t start it , at least I commented
Thanks for the comment it helps us figure out the content. I had other thing's to film on this bike but I should have thought about cranking it.
Really wasn’t a super detailed install
From most people's comments in the past we learned it's best to get to the meat of it right away. Really though it's not a hard job the most critical step is torque the bolts. If you have any questions when your doing the job feel free to email me at davethom2004flstc@gmail.com.
I think I'd rather just buy a brand that doesn't need so many aftermarket upgrades, just to become....Fast isn't the right word....... I guess, less slow.
it's not so much about going fast on them , it' more about enjoying one more thing to do with the bike. mechanics like me and the guys i worked with just like having a reason to tinker with them. it's a way to bond with the bike so to speak, even on my not Harley bikes I do the same on them. when me and my wife were dating she asked me why i have so many different brands of bike's my response was why do you have so many brands of shoe's, its because they all feel different. she shook her head and said i see your point.
Not everyone wants to get where they are going as fast as possible. Some like to actually enjoy the ride.