Ford Focus engine mount replacement
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- This 2006 Ford Focus LS developed a vibration at idle that did not sound right. When idling you could can hear the dash rattle and you could feel the vibration through the steering wheel. The right hand side engine mount is usually the culprit, however because the car has over 100,000kms I thought it would be a good idea to replace all 3. Just make sure if you attempt this job that you support the engine on the side that you're working on otherwise it will fall out. I hope you enjoy my video.
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Please note: I am not a qualified mechanic, I just enjoy working on cars in my spare time and I want to bring you along on my journey. Modaufy Garage assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. All cars are different and what works for me, might not work for you. Working in or around cars can be dangerous so if in doubt talk to a qualified mechanic. Just remember to be safe at all times.
Thanks for the video. Huge help. Torque specs according to hynes manual is 90Nm and 56Nm. I installed a non ford top engine mound and had to grind off 3mm on the engine side to make it fit. Just incase anyone has the same problem.
You’re welcome. Awesome! Thanks for the torque specs. That’s weird that your had to grind off 3mm for a ‘replacement’ part. I recently did the front suspension on my falcon and the top strut mount didn’t even fit, so I reverted back to the originals.
Thanks for the video, it's so easy to change and I was paying the mechanic a lot of money for a very easy job. I stopped paying mechanics, so I watch videos and then do it myself, for example, I saw in a video how to change brake discs and pads, then I did it myself and succeeded.
Sounds good and I'm glad you are learning on the way. It feels good to do things yourself.
Enjoyed your video, especially as I'm in the process of replacing the RH mount 2009 Focus, with same air con pipe bracket "in the way". Googled the torque and found upper bolts 60ft-lbs (~80NM) lower bolts 65ft-lbs (~90 NM), which matches your research.
Awesome, I'm happy your research matches what I found. Thanks for watching
thank you for this video it is going to help me a lot with the mount above the transmission
You’re welcome. I hope it goes smoothly when you change it out.
Thanks for the video couldn't have been possible without this
Thanks for watching!
You are lucky the screw heads in the battery box are so nice looking. Here in the "Rust Belt," northern Ohio, USA, where road salt and brine are used to make roads passable in winter, the heads of these screws are so rusted they took an 11/32 socket (barely smaller than 9mm) instead of 10mm to remove them. However, the one in back (down in the well) is so rusted even THAT socket will not work on it. It's going to be surgery to get it out. It is also interesting how your battery box is made differently than in the Focus in the USA. On ours, just the front end comes off (interlocking with the ends of the sides) and you can pull the battery out of the front once the hold down bracket is removed, and then disconnect the negative terminal.
So when you’re doing any kind of repair work you’re essentially changing bolts as well. What other damage does the salt and brine do to the cars?
@@modaufygarage - The salt and brine rusts any bare steel immediately and also accelerates the process. The K-frame on my car is quite rusty. Not to the point yet where there is any loss to structural integrity, but I plan on keeping this car, so in another 5 to 10 years I may have to replace it. Where tiny rock chips in the body paint are present, rust will occur right away in the winter. As you can imagine, steering knuckles, brake rotors and drums, steel or cast iron caliper mounting brackets, rear axles, and wheel hubs all get incredibly rusty. My wife has a Ford C-Max Energi plug-in hybrid which has regenerative braking. She only drives about 4,000 miles a year, Because the actual brakes hardly get used (with regenerative braking doing all the work except for panic stops) I have had to do 2 brake jobs in just 30,000 miles because of the rust destroying the rotors and brake pads.
Brake lines used to rust through, as well as fuel lines. Starting in 2007 all brake lines on newly manufactured cars were required to have protective coatings to keep them from rusting away. This regulation has been a god send for the Rust Belt. The Rust Belt is typically considered to be the Great Lakes area of the United States, and up into the northeastern portion of the country. For those of us who have grown up here, it's kind of a badge of honor. A "Right of Passage" for those who do their own work on cars is changing a starter in the driveway in the winter, on your back, in the snow. But that was back when cars were all rear wheel drive, and the starter could only be accessed from underneath.....and weighed 2 or 3 times what they do now.
It sounds like that you have your maintenance schedule all planned out and be prepared to change anything. I hope you have a heated garage for working on the cars in winter.
@@modaufygarage - I have a kerosene heater for the garage, lol, but my wife and I have our classic cars in it, so no place to repair cars in there.
BTW, MY classic car is a 1972 XA Fairmont. When I imported it, someone is Oz had already swapped the bits on it to make it appear as an XB Falcon. It was originally a 351C car with automatic transmission, but they put a toploader into it and a clutch. I am rebuilding it into a Mad Max Interceptor, just like an American, but at the same time started pursuing filmmaking. It's completely disassembled, waiting to go to a body shop to be blasted and painted with epoxy primer. There's some small spots where I need to repair rust. Some patch panels had been put into it already by the previous owner. There's videos on my channel of the progress. I'm retiring in November and looking forward to getting back to work on it.
@@1001Hobbies Always need to protect the classics. That heater sounds like it will keep you warm on a very cold day/season. The XA/B are some of my favourite Falcons. The prices for these in Australia have gone crazy, along with all classic cars. Ford stopped making the Falcon in 2016. It's to bad we don't make them anymore. My 2007 model Falcon is going to be my keeper. You should check out the channel @phatrides garage, this should give you some motivation to complete your project.
Glad I found this, I have exactly the same vibration issue and same setup re the aircon pipe over the engine bracket, glad it can move just enough to get the bracket out as it looks quite tight!
Does the expansion bottle just pull off the locating tabs, no bolt?
I'm just replacing this mount, mine has done 127k miles, if needed I'll replace the rest but I suspect this one will improve things vastly! 👍
The expansion bottle is just clipped in from memory. This engine mount will make the biggest improvement. Good luck with the job and thanks for watching!
Good video, nice work.
Thank you very much 👍
Thanks for watching!
Hi, I've got diagnosed with a faulty DX mount, is it necessary to replace also the SX and the transmission one? The mechanic said I just need to replace the DX + SX... Thanks
If that is what you mechanic is recommending then only change that one. I thought for me it would be easier to change all 3. If you notice any vibration then change the rest.
Great video! I will do this tomorrow but on a Volvo v50. How long time did it take to change all of the mounts?
To be honest I can’t remember as filming ads a fair bit of time. If you don’t have any interruptions maybe 1.5 to 2 hours. How did you go with it?
It’s easier to put the rubber ac line holder on the line and then slide down to put in okace
Thanks for the tip! I’ll keep that in mind if I ever need to do it again.
did you find out if the engine mount torque specs are correct?
I’m not going to worry to much about the correct specs. I’m confident With the torque setting I did them up to. I think most mechanics would just use the impact gun.
I see you have put your wheels on wood is it to make it higher to work under the car
It was just easier to position the jack underneath with more clearance
@@modaufygarageDid you put the Jack under the engine or under the gearbox?
@@alin-cosminschneider7180 I out the jack under the engine but used a piece of wood between the jack and the engine oil sump.
@@modaufygarage I put the Jack under the gearbox and it didn't move at all of course with a piece of wood on top of the Jack.
Where can I order these exact 3 mounts? I'm noticing on ebay and Amazon the right side looks a bit different from OEM. Would it still work?
The mounts should all look exactly the same as the ones you have in now. If you can’t find what you’re looking for the best bet would be an auto parts store.
I didn't see the last one location
It’s under the car between the fire wall and the engine
At 15:08 how many newtons did you tighten the screws?
The outer ones I did at around 90NM and the one in the middle at around 100nm
Thank you mate! Keep doing this, because your videos are really helpful
@@razvansandu7860 I appreciate the feedback. Thanks for watching
Great video absolutely annoying music
Thanks for the feedback and for watching.