You can drain the tank by using the valve on the bottom... that way it actually removes the water that builds up in the tank. Doing it your way just stores the water and leads to rust and moisture in your lines
not sure if im nubile or what, but u bypassed their outlets, ran it from tank thru a reg and thats it correct? their reg must be very restrictive. Home depot sells high flow fittings with almost 30% more inside diameter, i use em at the shop, they also make a HUGE difference... thanks!
Correct the regulator is more restrictive than a 1/4 quick connect. I did not use a regulator though. I ran it straight through a filter then to the hose reel.
You got 2 guages 1 is for tank pressure the other is for line pressure that can be adjusted to suit whatever tool you are using it can be replaced if it malfunctions available at home depot or harbor freight not expensive
Wondering if I should leave my drain plug open when I turn my small compressor off to allow the water that does come out to dry before closing it and using the compressor again. Hate the thought of rust buildup causing it to explode at some point.
Before you go to all this trouble, drain the air, remove the regulator cap (just pulls off, then dissamble the regulator (I used a 30mm socket which was a bit big and I had to separate the assembly frkm the face plate) I removed the plastic valve with rubber O ring, then adjusted the screw so that the plate below the spring extend further and aplied more force on spring and therefore the valve. I may need to adjust it back down a bit as i am now getting over 180 PSI to the hose.
I’m gonna watch again but a common problem with my fortress 10gal 175psi is the pressure regulator knob itself keeps stripping. Twice in a year. They use soft shitty steel intentionally. I’m trying to modify the knob but sound like I can go around it?
@@mechanicalking Thanks! I know my question was kinda stupid since that’s what the vid was about😂 but I wasn’t sure if I could bypass manifold completely or if it was a must to have reg knob. The factory knob is essentially there so air doesn’t leak as I’ve epoxied it. I think I’m also confusing or intertwining regulator and manifold? What you have mounted to the wall is that a filter/regulator? Most of what I see protects the attachments or tools that you’re using but not necessarily the air comp itself? The 10gall fortress collects rusty water easily since the drain valve is more on the side rather than bottom. Sorry for the novel I’ve just wasted a lot of $ buying more problems than solutions. Thanks again👍
You can use basically any compressor for painting but of course the smaller the more break the compressor would need. I would personally do this and use high flow fittings for the most air possible. If you have some money to spare you can get a 60 gallon dewalt compressor it’s like 950 at Home Depot would be perfect for continuous painting. Sometimes we have to work with what we got so painting a car in sections with a slow reducer is the cheapest.
@@mechanicalking second question. I’ve got a leak on the short hose running from the manifold to the tank. It’s bent in such a way that it’s causing bulging at the connector to the manifold. I’m going to use your recommendation for upgrade, but trying to remove the hose from the tank is a pain. Did you have issues trying to loosen the hose from the tank?
I have a dumb question. I’m using this to spray single body panels with a low cfm gun that uses 4.5 @ 90 psi. I believe this mod will help with the volume of air flow increasing the CFM right? Or is this mod useless in my case as I only need 30 psi and maybe the cfm will not be affected
Because they don’t want people to get the best bang for their buck essentially. They want people to upgrade and spend hundreds more. It’s like buying a car. They don’t put the best technology they have they purposefully nerf stuff.
@@rjchiedog the tank psi is 200. There isn’t a single pneumatic tool in this world designed to run past 150 psi, which is why the regulator is factory set at 150. It also reduces the run time of the compressor motor by using lower pressures.
@@mechanicalking it absolutely lowers the run time. If you’re using 90 psi out of 200 instead of 200 out of 200 the motor runs half as much. Are you dense?
Compressor is trash, pressure switch supposedly gave out on this Compressor and even got a new replacement part per harbor freight still did the same thing. Save yalls money and get one from home depot or lowes. Unless you want to trash 400$
You can drain the tank by using the valve on the bottom... that way it actually removes the water that builds up in the tank. Doing it your way just stores the water and leads to rust and moisture in your lines
Great modification, I'll be doin that to mine for sure. thanks :))
not sure if im nubile or what, but u bypassed their outlets, ran it from tank thru a reg and thats it correct? their reg must be very restrictive. Home depot sells high flow fittings with almost 30% more inside diameter, i use em at the shop, they also make a HUGE difference... thanks!
Correct the regulator is more restrictive than a 1/4 quick connect. I did not use a regulator though. I ran it straight through a filter then to the hose reel.
You got 2 guages 1 is for tank pressure the other is for line pressure that can be adjusted to suit whatever tool you are using it can be replaced if it malfunctions available at home depot or harbor freight not expensive
Beautiful tip thank you
Excellent ❤
Wondering if I should leave my drain plug open when I turn my small compressor off to allow the water that does come out to dry before closing it and using the compressor again.
Hate the thought of rust buildup causing it to explode at some point.
Yes, drain your tank of water daily.
Thank you for sharing!!!! You are a genius!
I don't understand because most tools call for 90psi
Can you operate the HarborFreight sandblaster with this compressor?
You could also buy the correct airgun that increases psi without increasing volume used
Wow! Thank you!
Im going to be trying this with my 20 gallon Walmart special air compressor.
Great video! Thank you!!
Before you go to all this trouble, drain the air, remove the regulator cap (just pulls off, then dissamble the regulator (I used a 30mm socket which was a bit big and I had to separate the assembly frkm the face plate) I removed the plastic valve with rubber O ring, then adjusted the screw so that the plate below the spring extend further and aplied more force on spring and therefore the valve. I may need to adjust it back down a bit as i am now getting over 180 PSI to the hose.
This seems like way more hassle
Thanks
Did you try replacing the quick connect instead?
Yeah it did nothing
What was your order of screwing things into the Tee?
How did you get the allen plug out of the end of regulator?
What size T fitting did you use ? Is it 1/2" or 3/8" or something else?
I’m gonna watch again but a common problem with my fortress 10gal 175psi is the pressure regulator knob itself keeps stripping. Twice in a year. They use soft shitty steel intentionally. I’m trying to modify the knob but sound like I can go around it?
Yes you can bypass it
@@mechanicalking Thanks! I know my question was kinda stupid since that’s what the vid was about😂 but I wasn’t sure if I could bypass manifold completely or if it was a must to have reg knob. The factory knob is essentially there so air doesn’t leak as I’ve epoxied it. I think I’m also confusing or intertwining regulator and manifold? What you have mounted to the wall is that a filter/regulator? Most of what I see protects the attachments or tools that you’re using but not necessarily the air comp itself? The 10gall fortress collects rusty water easily since the drain valve is more on the side rather than bottom. Sorry for the novel I’ve just wasted a lot of $ buying more problems than solutions. Thanks again👍
Isn’t the regulator capped at 90 psi, as in that is how it was meant to be used… no?
No. You can run more
Thx ,,,,
Can you use this for painting?
Yes if you have a filter
You can use basically any compressor for painting but of course the smaller the more break the compressor would need. I would personally do this and use high flow fittings for the most air possible. If you have some money to spare you can get a 60 gallon dewalt compressor it’s like 950 at Home Depot would be perfect for continuous painting. Sometimes we have to work with what we got so painting a car in sections with a slow reducer is the cheapest.
@@fiys567lblp gun will get it done with no problem
What end did you cap off? On the manifold?
You don’t need to cap it off
@@mechanicalking second question. I’ve got a leak on the short hose running from the manifold to the tank. It’s bent in such a way that it’s causing bulging at the connector to the manifold. I’m going to use your recommendation for upgrade, but trying to remove the hose from the tank is a pain. Did you have issues trying to loosen the hose from the tank?
Nope it came right off
@@mechanicalking Thanks man, guess I need a little more elbow grease.
How to lubricant this compressor
Oil free
I have a dumb question. I’m using this to spray single body panels with a low cfm gun that uses 4.5 @ 90 psi. I believe this mod will help with the volume of air flow increasing the CFM right? Or is this mod useless in my case as I only need 30 psi and maybe the cfm will not be affected
why should we have to figure this stuff out?these companies are false advertisening...
Because they don’t want people to get the best bang for their buck essentially. They want people to upgrade and spend hundreds more. It’s like buying a car. They don’t put the best technology they have they purposefully nerf stuff.
@@fiys567 its false advertising. thats ilegal. if the tank sais 175 psi and psi isnt even 150. its false advertising.
@@rjchiedog the tank psi is 200. There isn’t a single pneumatic tool in this world designed to run past 150 psi, which is why the regulator is factory set at 150. It also reduces the run time of the compressor motor by using lower pressures.
@bfirefighter3 It does not reduce the run time because the tank pressure stays the same.
@@mechanicalking it absolutely lowers the run time. If you’re using 90 psi out of 200 instead of 200 out of 200 the motor runs half as much. Are you dense?
G3N1US💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍😎
Compressor is trash, pressure switch supposedly gave out on this Compressor and even got a new replacement part per harbor freight still did the same thing. Save yalls money and get one from home depot or lowes. Unless you want to trash 400$
Dam and I just bought one 😢
What’s the name of the Home Depot one?
All he's doing here is bypassing the reglator. Don't waste your time