To answer your question from your broken McGraw compressor video with the missing key, it wasn't a woodruff key which is like a half moon, nor is it a Gib head key but just a standard square shear key. Glad to see you got it replaced to do this review.
The older central pneumatic has held up well for me. I've had it for 3 or so years. I've changed the oil once or twice a year. I don't use it everyday. But when I do use it I run it pretty hard. For painting it does work. Though you need a good water separator. It will not keep up with air sanders or most die grinders. Overall a good inexpensive small compressor.
I just picked up the McGraw. I had wanted the old H/F Central Pneumatic, but glad I waited (although it was much cheaper a few years ago). The McGraw looks more refined, nicer gauges, nicer regulator, 15 extra psi, and sounds a little quieter. The two things I found disappointing with the McGraw, 1. The oil drain is still a pain to deal with, and 2. Although nice to have the tank drain easier to reach, it's now not actually at the very bottom of the tank, leaving an area lower than the valve it the tank to collect water. The fix is to be sure to lean the compressor to get all the moisture out of the tank.
You would rarely want to do this unless the compressor was not shutting down at or below the factory working pressure rating of the tank. This would be especially critical on the McGraw, Fortress, etc which have the drain located on the side since on those you won't be able to properly drain condensate from the tank unless you tip them so the tank can completely drain the water accumulated in the bottom. The center drain on the Central Pneumatic is a much safer design feature. I wish there was an optional bottom port allowing you to choose the drain location on the new style compressors from Harbor Freight as they appear to be including this safety hazard on all their new series of compressors. Welding a new threaded drain port in at the correct location really isn't a valid option unless you're certified to weld pressure vessels. Best!
@@neilfromclearwaterfl81 The offset drain is better because people are more likely to use it when it's more convenient. The screw type drains that were at the very bottom center of the air compressor were the tanks that were drained the least. The quarter turn valve and being offset so one does not have to reach under the tank is convenient so more likely people will use it and drain their tanks regularly. The minor inconvenience of having to tilt the tank to get the last bit of water out isn't that bad since the placement of the drain works in conjunction with the tilt of the tank on the wheels.
@@killer2600 Nobody but a small handful of people are going to realize this flaw will require the additional step of endangering themselves by tipping a compressor in order to properly drain it so most often the tanks will perforate prematurely leading to more frequent compressor replacements. This flaw also requires piped in compressors be removed from the system in order to drain them and potentially have to be removed from safety or noise abatement enclosures. An automatic condensate drain triggered by the compressor unloader also becomes less effective with the side mounted drain that requires unsafe tilting. As a retired plant mechanic, head of maintenance and safety board member this feature is a big pass. Best!
@@neilfromclearwaterfl81 Completely agree! I have the same Central Pneumatic compressor in the video. I just extended the drain valve with brass pipe and fittings. I can reach down and open a ball valve to drain the tank of air and water without having to rock the tank backwards! The McGraw drain is a very poor design! Guarantee there will be tank failures due to rust and perforation at the tank bottom!
@@gordiehattrick The pump bearing spun on my Central Pneumatic ruining the shaft so I quickly bought the McGraw to get a project to completion however went through three of them due to additional the cheaping out they did by trying to use a motor that really isn't a good match for a compressor by putting a weighted cork/pressure valve in the head of the pump that theoretically shouldn't close until the motor has reached running torque. There were three designs of the same compressor in the stores at that time and we had to search to find one without the cork in the head and that did have dual capacitors like a proper compressor motor. HF is slipping lately and very often you can shop Amazon or Temu and get better tools with accessories included along with longer warranties for 1/4 the price from local US suppliers with free shipping. Sad also when you can walk into Lowes or Home Depot and buy a name brand tool that includes the battery, charger and multi-year warranty for equal to less money. They appear to be going the route Sears took which ultimately has lead to their decimation. Best!
At one of the parking lot sales I got the 29 gallon 150 psi CP compressor for a $100 , it was the end of the day and the guy did not feel like wheeling it back into the store, it was brand new but did not.come with a box , he even threw in a 3/8 50 foot air hose , could not beat that deal !
Doesn't matter as far as comparison anymore. The discontinued the central pneumatic compressor. I think they are completely moving away from the Chicago Electric line or the branding (I am thinking it is more a branding thing as CE was known in the past to be the "cheaper" price and quality. That was more so because of the smaller electric tools had cheap metal, soft brushes, etc in their drills, grinders, rotary tools. I never had a problem with their bigger electric equipment though, routers 2hp, compressors, demo drills. So i am willing to bet the compressor head may be different but the tank, wire, motor, gauges, piping is all CE and built in the same factory.
I've got the 21 gal Central Pneumatic compressor...had it for almost 10 years & it's done a fine job, & continues to do so... that said, I'm looking to upgrade to a bigger one for home & use the 21 gal for my portable air... after weighing a lot of options, for a good permanent home air compressor, that Craftsman 60 gal for $799 at Lowe's is hard to beat for the pressure & CFMs at that price... pretty sure that's my next one...
I noticed the noise the central pneumatics was making during the compressor running cycle. Also, if you use a 10/3 extension cord may help with the cord temperature. How does the 29-gallon tanks work during painting?
Now I'll teach you the engineering in short form. Both those compressors are the same double single stage configuration with one being inline and the other a "V" shape, otherwise the same. The tanks job is to reduce duty cycling but is not the most important part of the compressor. The pump has a rating not printed on the sales literature which is your "free air CFM" at specific pressures. If the pump delivers 2 FCFM at 90psi to a 40 gallon tank but your demand is 5 CFM for 20 minutes, you'll fall very short of operating pressures your operation but will work fine for the first 3 minutes. The pump is everything and the tank capacity is only relevant to duty cycles, if I place a 48 FCFM pump on that tank, it will fill VERY fast, under 30 seconds but will restart a lot. The small pump reduces the duty cycling but leaves you short on air when you really want it, it also requires a smaller motor to drive. The large pump will however run your tools without a tank technically which is a practice often given to hydro vanes and rotary screws. As for these two, they are the same compressor with the only difference being the shape of pump and maybe the quality of a few other parts, they are good for general home use, I would not tell anyone to get these or their 80 gallon counterparts if performance matters. Tank size becomes totally irrelevant if the pump is powerful enough but duty cycling becomes relevant until you introduce the power of a VFD plus a CFM and PSI sensor, then it gets interesting.
@@tkjvsmith227 That's a broad question however, a good all around sized pump is a T30 sized pump. This will usually cover all air tools, sand blasters, tire guns if you wish and many sizes of tanks. This size of pump comes in many brands, some longer lasting than others. Size the pump for the need and then work your way down to tanks and HP (relative to pulley sizes and RPM's). For me, I'll likely go to a commercial auction before I go to a store.
How would the vfd help it already has 2 capacitors to help with start up, hope my question doesn't sound stupid, at work we deal with vfd recently its replacing the old set up because it's much better on electronics during startup especially with 3 phase
@chrislangley4724 The VFD allows live varible ramping based on the CFM demand using a milliamp feedback cfm meter. For instance, when usage is low the whole system ramps down to low RPM, as demand increases the pump ramps up to meet demand. This eliminates hard and repetitive cycling and creates more consistent supply since you're no longer waiting for a 30 or 40psi drop to start the pump again. It also ends repetitive electrical loading from cold starting.
The Central Pneumatic is now on clearance closeout at HF. $399. Fantastic deal for the price now being $399. I happened to pick up one today they just had dropped at the local HF. The McGraw is $550 and a similar DeWalt at Tractor Supply is $699.
U have the Red Central Pneumatic air compressor. I am into painting as well with utilization of this economical tool for its use and purpose. What should i have my air tank pressure set at in contrast to the actual tool (spray gun) being used for purposes of painting car parts and vehicles. I have 3 spray guns and each one has only one function and task. Meaning 1 is used for applying all applications of primer only ; 1 is used for applying the color paint which is mixed according to what instructions indicate and strained into the gun ; 1 is used for the application of applying the clear coat only... and what are best air hoses you recommend getting to use with this type and kind of air compressor. Thank you.
I have had the central pneumatic for 10 years, sitting out in the weather, rain snow sun and it fires off evertime , only changed the oil maybe 3 times in 3 years , every 400 hours or so lol id buy it again if i could
I have 2 29 gallon centrals one is 8 or 10 yrs the other 2yrs the older one is much quieter better than the newer one The newer one is like junk to me And much louder Sounds like it's going to break just like the one in the video I bought the 2nd one because I was very happy with the 1st one it was quiet have over 2000 hours on it and no issues but the 2nd 1 was sick for a while did not try it for about 14 months so I turned it on couldn't believe how loud it was what a difference in the compressor too it is junk compared to the one had it to long to take back .
That McGraw regulator know is way better! I have the smaller Central compressor you have (your old one) and it's difficult to get my hand on the knob and adjust it with how it's set up.
So I painted a truck today,the clear coat activator was bad in it,and made my clear milky,so went to O'Reily's paint department,and showed them the clear and activator,guy said that is really old activator,he mixed a little clear and little activator in a small can,and saw that it turned milky,he gave me another gallon of clear and another quart of activator,got back to shop after 40 minutes,and the milkyness evaporated out,so I just gave it two extra coats of clear coat,my question is ,is it bad recoat clear coat in 45 minutes since last coat.
No it's not bad. The 10-15 minute flash time is only to let it dry enough so it won't drip or sag after a few layers. I do recommend spraying clear over the whole truck (again) so you won't have any dry spots. If you spray only one side, while the other side is dry.. the overspray will land on the dry side and won't be as glossy as the wet side. (Still fixable with a wet sand, but it's still more work)
It was quite the surprise for me! I wasn't expecting Harbor Freight to contact me, let alone, send me an air compressor! 😅 but I'm extremely grateful for the opportunity The surprise was much bigger than an air compressor 🙏
I thought you were going to have a decibel meter on your phone when I saw you first hold it up on start up...then realized it was your timer. I was thinking man your getting fancy!
Thanks for sharing. I’ll probably pick up the McGraw.
To answer your question from your broken McGraw compressor video with the missing key, it wasn't a woodruff key which is like a half moon, nor is it a Gib head key but just a standard square shear key. Glad to see you got it replaced to do this review.
I'm interested in spray painting as well, and wondered how well the compressors held up for the job.
You ever get a air compressor?
The older central pneumatic has held up well for me. I've had it for 3 or so years. I've changed the oil once or twice a year. I don't use it everyday. But when I do use it I run it pretty hard. For painting it does work. Though you need a good water separator. It will not keep up with air sanders or most die grinders. Overall a good inexpensive small compressor.
I just picked up the McGraw. I had wanted the old H/F Central Pneumatic, but glad I waited (although it was much cheaper a few years ago). The McGraw looks more refined, nicer gauges, nicer regulator, 15 extra psi, and sounds a little quieter.
The two things I found disappointing with the McGraw, 1. The oil drain is still a pain to deal with, and 2. Although nice to have the tank drain easier to reach, it's now not actually at the very bottom of the tank, leaving an area lower than the valve it the tank to collect water. The fix is to be sure to lean the compressor to get all the moisture out of the tank.
FYI, if you open the black pressure switch box, you can adjust the on/off pressure controls. Same as a home well pressure valve.
You would rarely want to do this unless the compressor was not shutting down at or below the factory working pressure rating of the tank. This would be especially critical on the McGraw, Fortress, etc which have the drain located on the side since on those you won't be able to properly drain condensate from the tank unless you tip them so the tank can completely drain the water accumulated in the bottom. The center drain on the Central Pneumatic is a much safer design feature. I wish there was an optional bottom port allowing you to choose the drain location on the new style compressors from Harbor Freight as they appear to be including this safety hazard on all their new series of compressors. Welding a new threaded drain port in at the correct location really isn't a valid option unless you're certified to weld pressure vessels.
Best!
@@neilfromclearwaterfl81 The offset drain is better because people are more likely to use it when it's more convenient. The screw type drains that were at the very bottom center of the air compressor were the tanks that were drained the least. The quarter turn valve and being offset so one does not have to reach under the tank is convenient so more likely people will use it and drain their tanks regularly. The minor inconvenience of having to tilt the tank to get the last bit of water out isn't that bad since the placement of the drain works in conjunction with the tilt of the tank on the wheels.
@@killer2600 Nobody but a small handful of people are going to realize this flaw will require the additional step of endangering themselves by tipping a compressor in order to properly drain it so most often the tanks will perforate prematurely leading to more frequent compressor replacements.
This flaw also requires piped in compressors be removed from the system in order to drain them and potentially have to be removed from safety or noise abatement enclosures.
An automatic condensate drain triggered by the compressor unloader also becomes less effective with the side mounted drain that requires unsafe tilting.
As a retired plant mechanic, head of maintenance and safety board member this feature is a big pass.
Best!
@@neilfromclearwaterfl81 Completely agree! I have the same Central Pneumatic compressor in the video. I just extended the drain valve with brass pipe and fittings. I can reach down and open a ball valve to drain the tank of air and water without having to rock the tank backwards! The McGraw drain is a very poor design! Guarantee there will be tank failures due to rust and perforation at the tank bottom!
@@gordiehattrick The pump bearing spun on my Central Pneumatic ruining the shaft so I quickly bought the McGraw to get a project to completion however went through three of them due to additional the cheaping out they did by trying to use a motor that really isn't a good match for a compressor by putting a weighted cork/pressure valve in the head of the pump that theoretically shouldn't close until the motor has reached running torque. There were three designs of the same compressor in the stores at that time and we had to search to find one without the cork in the head and that did have dual capacitors like a proper compressor motor.
HF is slipping lately and very often you can shop Amazon or Temu and get better tools with accessories included along with longer warranties for 1/4 the price from local US suppliers with free shipping.
Sad also when you can walk into Lowes or Home Depot and buy a name brand tool that includes the battery, charger and multi-year warranty for equal to less money.
They appear to be going the route Sears took which ultimately has lead to their decimation.
Best!
At one of the parking lot sales I got the 29 gallon 150 psi CP compressor for a $100 , it was the end of the day and the guy did not feel like wheeling it back into the store, it was brand new but did not.come with a box , he even threw in a 3/8 50 foot air hose , could not beat that deal !
Nice review 👍
Harbor Freight should make you an official spokesperson 😎
Imagine that! 😅
Doesn't matter as far as comparison anymore. The discontinued the central pneumatic compressor. I think they are completely moving away from the Chicago Electric line or the branding (I am thinking it is more a branding thing as CE was known in the past to be the "cheaper" price and quality. That was more so because of the smaller electric tools had cheap metal, soft brushes, etc in their drills, grinders, rotary tools. I never had a problem with their bigger electric equipment though, routers 2hp, compressors, demo drills. So i am willing to bet the compressor head may be different but the tank, wire, motor, gauges, piping is all CE and built in the same factory.
I've got the 21 gal Central Pneumatic compressor...had it for almost 10 years & it's done a fine job, & continues to do so... that said, I'm looking to upgrade to a bigger one for home & use the 21 gal for my portable air... after weighing a lot of options, for a good permanent home air compressor, that Craftsman 60 gal for $799 at Lowe's is hard to beat for the pressure & CFMs at that price... pretty sure that's my next one...
I noticed the noise the central pneumatics was making during the compressor running cycle. Also, if you use a 10/3 extension cord may help with the cord temperature. How does the 29-gallon tanks work during painting?
Now I'll teach you the engineering in short form. Both those compressors are the same double single stage configuration with one being inline and the other a "V" shape, otherwise the same. The tanks job is to reduce duty cycling but is not the most important part of the compressor. The pump has a rating not printed on the sales literature which is your "free air CFM" at specific pressures. If the pump delivers 2 FCFM at 90psi to a 40 gallon tank but your demand is 5 CFM for 20 minutes, you'll fall very short of operating pressures your operation but will work fine for the first 3 minutes.
The pump is everything and the tank capacity is only relevant to duty cycles, if I place a 48 FCFM pump on that tank, it will fill VERY fast, under 30 seconds but will restart a lot. The small pump reduces the duty cycling but leaves you short on air when you really want it, it also requires a smaller motor to drive. The large pump will however run your tools without a tank technically which is a practice often given to hydro vanes and rotary screws.
As for these two, they are the same compressor with the only difference being the shape of pump and maybe the quality of a few other parts, they are good for general home use, I would not tell anyone to get these or their 80 gallon counterparts if performance matters.
Tank size becomes totally irrelevant if the pump is powerful enough but duty cycling becomes relevant until you introduce the power of a VFD plus a CFM and PSI sensor, then it gets interesting.
Good info. What do you think is the best compressor on the market today for $700 or less?
@@tkjvsmith227 That's a broad question however, a good all around sized pump is a T30 sized pump. This will usually cover all air tools, sand blasters, tire guns if you wish and many sizes of tanks. This size of pump comes in many brands, some longer lasting than others. Size the pump for the need and then work your way down to tanks and HP (relative to pulley sizes and RPM's). For me, I'll likely go to a commercial auction before I go to a store.
How would the vfd help it already has 2 capacitors to help with start up, hope my question doesn't sound stupid, at work we deal with vfd recently its replacing the old set up because it's much better on electronics during startup especially with 3 phase
@chrislangley4724 The VFD allows live varible ramping based on the CFM demand using a milliamp feedback cfm meter. For instance, when usage is low the whole system ramps down to low RPM, as demand increases the pump ramps up to meet demand. This eliminates hard and repetitive cycling and creates more consistent supply since you're no longer waiting for a 30 or 40psi drop to start the pump again. It also ends repetitive electrical loading from cold starting.
@mythril4 interesting thank you for the quick reply, I'm going to look into this maybe I'll turn a good compressor into a great one
Which one is better
Which one would be better for hvlp painting
The Central Pneumatic is now on clearance closeout at HF. $399. Fantastic deal for the price now being $399. I happened to pick up one today they just had dropped at the local HF. The McGraw is $550 and a similar DeWalt at Tractor Supply is $699.
So you bought the central pneumatic?
@@vicentesalinas8259 yes
Is there a reason to go with the belt driven motor?
You paint cars but can you also use impact wrenchs like a 1/2 in removing wheels or something?
Anyone know the duty cycle of the McGraw 29 gallon?
n you let me know the model number,, i am looking for oil filter , need your compressor part #s pls,,where do u get oil filter from
Would this compressors give you enough power to use a d/a sander.
Are u painting with those? What about sanding with them?
So in your opinion, which compressor is the louder??? or in your opinion, they are basically the same level of noise? Thanks for the Video
U have the Red Central Pneumatic air compressor. I am into painting as well with utilization of this economical tool for its use and purpose. What should i have my air tank pressure set at in contrast to the actual tool (spray gun) being used for purposes of painting car parts and vehicles. I have 3 spray guns and each one has only one function and task. Meaning 1 is used for applying all applications of primer only ; 1 is used for applying the color paint which is mixed according to what instructions indicate and strained into the gun ; 1 is used for the application of applying the clear coat only... and what are best air hoses you recommend getting to use with this type and kind of air compressor. Thank you.
I'm looking for a air compressor for my primeweld cut60 plasma cutter
What do you recommend
So which one do you recommending for painting
How do u sell your merch such as paint supplies and things I learn a lot form your videos 🤛👊
Interested if these are what you use in your paint videos, and how they're holding up / long term review?
I have had the central pneumatic for 10 years, sitting out in the weather, rain snow sun and it fires off evertime , only changed the oil maybe 3 times in 3 years , every 400 hours or so lol id buy it again if i could
Which one do you recommend? I'm interested in an air compressor Kobalt 26G Quiet
I am getting ready to buy that McGraw while it’s on sale for $499 with coupons.
It's now 549 with 25% off 1Day sale
Nice comparison im gunna buy one soon
The current prices on these two models are:
$549 - McGraw
$399 - Central Phneumatic
Of course,. prices vary by store
GT, is there a big difference in price between McGraw and HF? Good video!
At this moment, my nearest store has them for $399 for the Central Phneumatic (clearance price), and the McGraw at $549 (new product)
Another compressor I had considered was the Dewalt DXCCM301 30-gallon, which sells at $699. The McGraw compares to it, and wins! 🏆
I have 2 29 gallon centrals one is 8 or 10 yrs the other 2yrs the older one is much quieter better than the newer one
The newer one is like junk to me And much louder Sounds like it's going to break just like the one in the video I bought the 2nd one because I was very happy with the 1st one it was quiet have over 2000 hours on it and no issues but the 2nd 1 was sick for a while did not try it for about 14 months so I turned it on couldn't believe how loud it was what a difference in the compressor too it is junk compared to the one had it to long to take back .
n you let me know the model number,, i am looking for oil filter , need your compressor part #s pls,,where do u get oil filter from
Thank you for the video!
Thx
So we found out one fills up 15 seconds faster?
That Mcgraw drain isn't in a good spot. It needs to be at the lowest point to let all the water out!
That McGraw regulator know is way better! I have the smaller Central compressor you have (your old one) and it's difficult to get my hand on the knob and adjust it with how it's set up.
Looking at mine.. it looks like there's a way to extend the regulator with a longer threaded pipe. Maybe that could help.
empty air tank!
I’ve had multiple of the smaller central compressors start on fire this past year. 3 of them to be exact
So I painted a truck today,the clear coat activator was bad in it,and made my clear milky,so went to O'Reily's paint department,and showed them the clear and activator,guy said that is really old activator,he mixed a little clear and little activator in a small can,and saw that it turned milky,he gave me another gallon of clear and another quart of activator,got back to shop after 40 minutes,and the milkyness evaporated out,so I just gave it two extra coats of clear coat,my question is ,is it bad recoat clear coat in 45 minutes since last coat.
No it's not bad. The 10-15 minute flash time is only to let it dry enough so it won't drip or sag after a few layers.
I do recommend spraying clear over the whole truck (again) so you won't have any dry spots. If you spray only one side, while the other side is dry.. the overspray will land on the dry side and won't be as glossy as the wet side. (Still fixable with a wet sand, but it's still more work)
No time for refill time after air pressure drop?
if its a 175 psi compressor, why is it only pumping up to 145??
They don’t carry the black one anymore
just like cars engines are getting smaller with better tech., id get the gray one ,both nice but new one 1.8 hp perfect for small jobs,👍
Wow they must of seen it...they "sponsored" you and sent you your original compressor you wanted for the video!!
It was quite the surprise for me! I wasn't expecting Harbor Freight to contact me, let alone, send me an air compressor! 😅 but I'm extremely grateful for the opportunity
The surprise was much bigger than an air compressor 🙏
can be used to paint a complete car friend
I thought you were going to have a decibel meter on your phone when I saw you first hold it up on start up...then realized it was your timer. I was thinking man your getting fancy!
I totally forgot about that 🤦🏻♂️ I'll try to stitch a link
@@GTsPerformance so you have a Decibel meter app?
No, not yet! I'd have to look for one
@@GTsPerformance 😂 you had me thinking again...man he is super high tech🤣.
You talk way to much
good vid friend...looking to purchase for plasma cutter,thanks.